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ThomasProbert last won the day on August 23 2016

ThomasProbert had the most liked content!

About ThomasProbert

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    LSM Member
  • Birthday 02/16/1982

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Kent, SE England
  • Interests
    Vacforms and scratch-building, civil aircraft modelling.
    Eighth Air Force in WWII

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  1. Cheers, chaps! And yes, she's getting rather tricky to handle. Notice both fins are off as one took an unscheduled encounter with the wall adjacent to the bench, and thus I removed the other to protect it whilst there's still sanding and filling to do...
  2. Evening everyone Not a lot of progress to report on the big Shackleton project, but work has been going on, albeit at a glacial pace... I've been getting the wing surfaces sorted, as after the outer wings were attached a coat of filler-primer revealed a multitude of sins to be sorted. The original plastic of the Lancaster kit was quite bumpy from the start, and the rather rudimentary panel detailing needed to go, too. So, the pictures you see below are the results of three coats of filler-primer that have now been sanded back and polished, to leave me with a lovely and smooth surface for the final priming: I've also begun the process of marking out the position of the outboard nacelles in preparation to make those: Have I said before that this model is rather large? Here's a 1/32nd Spitfire snuggled up and shows the massive span of this thing - it's not far short of the 1/32nd B-29 I did a few years back: Not the most enthralling of updates, but I wanted to assure you that this project is still ticking along slowly... On a final note, does anyone know of a good source of plans for the radome set-up on the AEW2? I'm going to redo my earlier one and need a lower, side, front and rear profile of the 'dome itself is anyone knows of a good set of drawings? Until next time, Tom
  3. I fancied a quick and easy project and seeing Spitfires overhead daily during the summer months (I'm under the approach to Biggin Hill) I didn't need much inspiration to dig this one out of the attic This model simply fell together and was an absolute joy - construction of the main airframe only took a few evenings and I only used a smidgen of filler at the wing to fuselage join. Decals were from EagleCal and I also added the MDC corrected spinner and oil cooler,to more accurately replicate a MkIIa. The model depicts P8088 of 118Sqn during April 1941. All paints were Xtracolour enamels finished with Humbrol Matt Varnish. I'm really looking forward to the MkIX that Revell are about to release to go with this one. All the best, Tom
  4. Wing Update Part II Attaching the outer wing sections was done by cutting slits in the inner wing ends and allowing the spar stubs from the outer wings to slide through and interlock with the inner wing spars I'd made earlier in the build. The outer sections are quite chunky, and I wasn't confident that normal poly cement or superglue would be strong enough in the longer term, so instead I've used this stuff: It's actually are two-part exposy-resin glue that dries so hard it's like concrete. It can be sanded/sculpted and with a workable drying time of 20 minutes, it allowed me to set the wings level and then they could be left overnight to harden. The join is now absolutely solid, and there's very little flex across the entire length of the wing which is rather pleasing for a model of this span. It was important to get the correct dihedral, and because the Shackleton's outer wing sections have a less pronounced upward lift than the Lancaster, the fact I was using Lancaster wings meant I needed to modify the join - you can see in the picture below the plastic card spacers I added to each wing to get the correct angle: I then set about blending the inner and outer sections together, and applied a liberal coating of my trusty P38. This was then sanded back over a couple of evenings. Building a model this size requires thinking out of the box, and sanding it over the sink was the only option because 1) it keeps the amount of dust to a minimum and 2) it's one of the only spaces big enough to maneuver it properly! The wife wasn't best pleased, but I explained this was a better option than coating the rest of the house in an inch or two of sanding dust... And here we are - it's suddenly become a lot bigger... about three-and-half-feet-across-the-wings-bigger! You may have noticed that the fins are missing - this was because one was broken off when it had a too-closer encounter with the wall adjacent to my workbench, and thus I removed the other one as well before that took some irreparable damage, too. They will be reattached when the main filling and sanding is complete. In the photo you can see the amount of filler needed to correct the warping on the left wing - it's more or less corrected now but it will be clearer to see if further work is needed when it's been primed: So the next step will be to have a bash at the outboard engine nacelles... should be fun Until next time, Tom
  5. Hi Jan - you're quite right, and having looked at the Avenger radome I've used in comparison to the real thing, the plan is now to 3D print a new radome. Watch this space... It's been a while since I updated this thread, but there's been plenty of work going on with the big Shackleton... Wing Update Part I Using the ID Models Lancaster wing as a base, I set about removing the fuel booster pump fairings, as well as the flap and aileron sections. I also removed the wing tip as a new, extended tip would need to be made: Here the basic outline of the new extended tips are being tested: A set of spars were made from 1.5mm plastic card: And then the top half of the wing was added - here is the outer wing section alongside a 1/72nd scale Shackleton as a size comparison: The extended tips were then finished off with some spare Beaufighter stabilisers which were reshaped slightly, as well as lots of P38 filler. The rear skins were made from laminated plastic card: When completed, they were ready for attaching to the inner wing sections:
  6. Hi Jim - I'm a tad jealous of you getting to build this beauty! I have two of the G version but unfortunately budget and room won't let me acquire the E/F. Just a couple of things if I may? The only painted area of any Fortress interior was the exposed metal areas of the flightdeck, and this was dark dull (sometimes referred to as Bronze) green. All other areas of the insides, from the nose compartment to the tail turret, were unpainted aluminium. 'US Interior Green' was never, at any time, used in B-17 production. The control wheels you've installed are actually those for the E model - the F used the narrower type carried through to the G model. Hopefully it's not too late to make those changes should you so wish? Please don't think I'm being critical - I just thought you may be interested to know. All the best, Tom
  7. Don't blame you, Cees. This'll save a LOT of work and hopefully keep the motivation going... Tom
  8. Evening all, The radome section of the big Shackleton has progressed well over the last few days. The forward bomb door section I'd made earlier had a skimming of filler and was sanded smooth: This then received a few coats of filler primer, and when dry I added the slightly raised ribs on the exterior of the doors from 5mm Tamiya masking tape, cut to the correct shape. These were all completed together to keep the cutting consistent, and when done applied one side first, then its opposite number in order to keep them all correctly aligned. The radome itself has had the excess resin that enabled it to fit the Avenger removed, and I've amended the shape slightly in order to make it more like the shape seen on the Shackleton. The rear is still too 'pinched' if I'm being honest, but there's not enough resin left to sand away without going through it. I imagine the shape is different at the rear of the radome due to the narrower nature of the Avenger fuselage/bomb bay structure. The flat spot has also been sanded into the lower part of the dome and the rubber skirt that is present between the radome and the bomb doors was replicated with Milliput - there certainly isn't a smooth join on the real thing so I didn't spend too much time neatening the join here either. Finally, I added the rivet detail with a Trumpeter riveting tool - this served as a good practice for the rest of fuselage when the time comes! A splash of Halford's grey primer finished the job: I'm afraid I've not had time to get the proper camera set up out as I'm everything is packed up ready for my impending house move, but the following images give an idea of how it looks on a test fit to the fuselage: All in all, it appears to look close enough to the real thing for my liking. This will be the last update for a while now as we move into our new home on Wednesday so the modelling equipment (Shackleton included) is all boxed away ready for the move. And then I imagine the wife will have me decorating rather than modelling so it may go a bit quiet here for a bit Thanks for stopping by, Tom
  9. Hi Cees, I'm not sure if Alan Clark used the planking method of not - the truth is I was at the coast one day and just happened to walk by an old fashioned fishing boat and the idea struck me how subtle shapes and curves can be recreated using planks. Next thing I knew I was building a 1/32nd Shackleton! Yes indeed the strengthening strips will go on above the bomb bay in due coarse - another trademark Manchester/Lancaster/Lincoln feature. I'm excited about the new house - it's much bigger and also has a huge attic which I have reserved for my big bomber fleet. Tom
  10. Cheers, chaps. I've only got a couple of weeks of the holidays left and then it'll all go a bit quieter on the modelling front for me. I've also just bought a new house and am moving next week so this might be the last update for a while... I've made a start on the forward bomb bay and radome over the last couple of sessions. When the MR2s were modified to AEW2s, the radar was fitted in the forward part of the bomb bay, which was then separated from the rear section which was still free to operate as usual. The picture below (used for illustrative purposes only) shows this to good effect. Notice the 'flat spot' on the bottom of the radome too - every extra inch counts for ground clearance when the radome hangs this low! My model has been constructed with a full length bomb bay, as when I started the project I hadn't at that point committed to an AEW2 and was originally going to make a MR2. Therefore, the forward part of the bay needs filling in, and the closed doors recreated - there's nothing like making a bit of extra work for yourself... So, a basic frame to support the radome was made from 1mm plastic card, with care being taken to follow the outline of the bay doors from my trusty set of plans: Test fit under the nose: This framework was then planked with my trusty plastic card method: When slung under the nose it looks ok so far: The radome itself has come from the Braz Grumman Avenger AEW conversion set, as in essence they were the same unit: However, as you can see, there's going to be a lot of fettling needed to get it to fit to the Shackleton properly: So, I'm off to busy myself with that this afternoon... Tom
  11. Many thanks, Arnold. Just thought this was worth sharing - here's the design for the tail wheels that a friend is 3D printing for me. This man has some serious talent! Saves on some serious scratch-building time Tom
  12. They look very effective, Cees. Once under a coat of paint they'll look very good I'm sure
  13. This week I've spent some time finishing off the nose section of the big Shackleton. When the MR2 airframes were converted to AEW2s, the nose armament of cannons and sighting gear was removed, but the turret fairing itself remained with the gun apertures blanked over - see here on this image of an AEW2: To replicate this, I first cut a piece of plastic card to the correct width of the nose, and heated it some hot water around a section of dowel to get the correct curvature. This was then glued to the nose and allowed to dry thoroughly: Next, more plastic card faired in the sides, but you can see the sides don't match the contours of the fuselage yet: These aerodynamic fairings were sculpted from Milliput and then finally blended with P38 and the whole area sanded smooth: A bit of paneling and the covers for the guns were made from thin Evergreen strip and plastic card: And hey presto - the nose was done! The camera angle and my poor photography skills makes everything look a bit elongated, but you get the idea! Until next time, Tom
  14. I love the effect you've created with the tape on the ailerons - noted for future projects! Lights look good, too.
  15. Thanks for dropping in Cees, and for you kind words once again. Yes the size is an issue and handling it is not easy - the lamp has gone flying on numerous occasions! The difference between P38 and Milliput is primarily that the former is used in the automotive industry. It is in two-parts (the filler and hardener) and dries absolutely solid in about 15 mins with no shrinkage. It's very easy to sand and can be scribed without problems, too. The bonus is also the fact that it's very light but also very strong. Milliput, as you know, is easier to sculpt when wet but takes an age to dry and doesn't sand quite as well. Each has their own strength for different jobs I suppose. The P38 absolutely stinks though, so I'm banished to the garden if I want to use it. I'll look forward to seeing you tackle the nacelles on your Manchester when the time comes. Tom