ThomasProbert

(Part Two) Step 6: Check out your handy work with a quick test-fit: Step 7: It's now time to attach the blades - this was done using the plans to ensure everything was aligned correctly. Special care was needed when drilling the apertures for the blades to pass through and attach to the backing plate: Finally, it was time for a test-fit of all the props (no 2 excluded for obvious reasons) and see how everything looks: The propeller for engine No2 has been put in the fully feathered position as on the finished model the cowlings will be removed so I thought it could be a nice little touch to show some problems with this engine: All in all I'm pleased how they've come out. In hindsight I think I could have made the blades slightly thicker at the root, but I'm not going to lose any sleep over it to be honest. Considering I had nothing to start with I think they'll be passable. That's another big step forward on what is turning in to quite a journey! Tom

Thanks for stopping by and giving me your feedback chaps - it is great to hear your thoughts and sure helps to keep the motivation up on such long projects Time for another update... I've got the props more or less completed now, which is a weight of my mind as they can make or break a project such as this. As there are none provided in the kit, it's a case of having to steal some from an appropriate donor kit, or make your own. I have wracked my brains (that didn't take very long!) and couldn't think of a kit which had the same 4-bladers as a Halifax - my life would have been easier if I'd done a MkIII as a Revell Beaufighter would have been a fine donor, so it was down the "scratch-build them" route. Earlier in the build I showed you how I'd modified a 1/24th scale needle-blade Mosquito prop as a master for making resin copies: Well CMK came up trumps and this lot arrived: So with the blades sorted, it was a case of making a spinner. The four-bladed propellers have a more rounded appearance then their three-blade cousins, and I was confident that I could make a master from Milliput. Here is this master offered up against the plans: And after a little more shaping with sandpaper and a polish: It was then time to have a go at some crash moulding. This is a reasonably quick, cheap and straightforward way of making copies of the master without having to spend ages making four from Milliput and ensuring that they are all identical. Step 1: Heat some plastic card over the hob until it starts to 'wobble'. Don't let it get too soft otherwise you'll push the master right through it (and make a mess of the hob!): Step 2: Allow the plastic to cool a little, and then remove the master. You will be left with a perfect copy of the spinner in the plastic: Step 3: Carefully cut the spinner away, but leave some spare plastic as this will be trimmed later: Step 4: Make a backing plate for the spinner: Step 5: Insert this plate into the back of the spinner and then trim the excess plastic (yet to be done in this picture): (Part two to follow)

I've got a little more to update you on regarding my Halifax project... I've been doing some further work to the flightdeck interior in preparation for the adding of the canopy. I had this resin seat in my spares stash left over from a detail set provided with the Combat Models 1/32nd B-17: Although it doesn't really resemble a Halifax seat, it was a good starting point. A few modifications later: I also scratch built the instrument panel from plastic card which was drilled to resemble the dials and gauges. The rudder pedals were also scratched form Evergreen strip: When painted up it looks passable (especially as it will be viewed through the canopy) When all painted up and added to the earlier detail on the flightdeck it all comes together nicely. The control yoke and various other smaller details were scratch built, as well as the fire extinguisher which was made from old sprue and sanded to shape: The only non-scratch built items were the seat harness which came from Eduard, and the basis of the seat. I've also added a little more detail to the wheel bays, and added the outer-most bomb doors: Finally, I've started work on the propellers. These will be 4-bladers and the spinners are more rounded in shape than the 3-bladed prop - I will be plunge-moulding my own spinners so have made a Milliput master to use. It has to be slightly smaller than the actual size you need it to allow for the thickness of the plastic: Slowly but surely edging to the point of painting... Until next time, Tom

Cheers, Tom

I've just completed Whirlybird's conversion to make the Trumpeter 1/32nd Lightning F1A/F3 into the two-seat T4. It's taken just over a year to complete it, but that's not because it was a particularly difficult conversion, it was more of a case of getting side-tracked by other projects and this one sitting on the shelf for far too long. Actual building time was no more than 2 months. It's a really nice conversion, and the resin nose goes on to the Trumpeter fuselage with the minimum of fuss. For those interested in the build process, a WIP can be found here: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234929671-132nd-scale-lightning-t4-conversion-update-26114/?hl=lightning I used Halford's automotive acrylics to paint it, and decals were a mix of Trumpeter and Whirlybird - both performed flawlessly. I've kept the weathering pretty light as pictures show these T-birds to have been well looked after. I've modelled this aircraft as it would have appeared in June 1965, whilst with 145 Squadron (226 OCU) based at RAF Coltishall, Norfolk. I have many fond memories standing on the approach at Coltishall, watching the Jags doing touch and go's; it's a shame I'm too young to remember the Lightnings - that must have been quite a sight (and sound!) Those eagle-eyed Lightning buffs will notice the main gear doors are at the incorrect angle - they'll be corrected next time the airbrush is out. On to the pictures: More to follow...

CMK... Superb casting in my opinion. Am yet to find a single air bubble... Tom

Thanks for the kind words gentlemen... More to update you on with the engines... As I'm sure you remember from earlier in the build, the engines were pretty basic as they came in the 'box' with the carburetor intakes and the exhausts moulded on to the nacelles: These wouldn't pass in this scale, so off they came, and I made my own masters to be cast in resin. Well they've arrived, and I must say they are excellent: As you can see from the above picture, I've got far more than I need (as well as propeller blades) so if anyone has this kit and wants a set of intakes please get in touch! I've improved the shape of the radiator intakes, as well as adding the radiator shutters to the undersides of the nacelles, which were made from plastic card. The new carburetor intakes look the part when installed: I've still got the exhausts and propellers to make, so hopefully when installed the engines will look a lot better than what I started with! Until next time... Tom

Loving this... Tom

The gear is on - well temporarily anyway. I've done a test-fit to check that everything is nice and level and sits as it should before I finish detailing the gear bays. I've had to make one tyre slightly flatter than the other as the left wing tip was 3mm lower than the right (I think the left wing has a slight warp which I've only just noticed, but hey ho!) but it doesn't notice to the eye so I'm happy. It's as good as I'm going to get it anyhow... I've also just had confirmation that the prop blades and carb. intakes that I've had cast are on their way too... happy days. Until next time, Tom

And don't forget that the Halifax was well suited to many other roles other than as a bomber - something the Lancaster never achieved to the extent the Halifax did. Plus it was far easier for crew to get out of in a hurry... Tom

Thanks for clearing that up Cees - I thought I'd read somewhere that it was the same unit but perhaps my memory is failing me I have read numerous accounts of the MkV landing gear not being as sturdy as the MkI,II and IIIs - with numerous collapses. This meant they had to carry a reduced bomb-load and further tarnished the Halifax's reputation in Harris' eyes. I believe most of the Vs were put on glider towing duty or into Coastal Command where the all up weights weren't as heavy as in Bomber Command. Tom

I haven't done a huge amount on this project of late as I'd been distracted by my HK B-17. Now that's finished, the Halifax is back on the bench. Well part of it is - most of it hangs off actually You may remember previously I had had a go at making my own main wheels from left over B-29 parts. Although they were ok, to be honest they could have been better but a real lack of any options of after-market parts in this scale meant they'd have to do. Until... 'Lancman' from the LSP forums to the rescue! The Halifax and Lancaster share an almost identical main wheel (in fact the MkV used modified Lancaster undercarriage units) so he kindly sent me a set of 1/32nd Lancaster wheels he'd moulded for his ID Lancaster. Well cast in resin, and spot on in dimensions: After filling a few tiny air bubbles and a coat of primer later: And a test fit in my scratch-built main undercarriage units: A huge improvement over my earlier efforts. Something that had been bugging me was the port exhaust on the port outer engine. When I originally cut the apertures for the exhausts out when making the nacelles, I didn't get things lined up exactly right and it sat a little too low and had a 'nose down' attitude on the engine. It was only by a few mm but it was bugging me, and I was worried that when the large stacks were added it would become more obvious - well it would to me anyway. So, out with a sharp no11 blade, remove the aperture, raise it by 2mm and re-insert: And a generous helping of filler to blend it back in: The fasteners will need to be reinstated when the sanding has been done. Until next time, Tom

That is quite exceptional... I always love the story about the race to 50,000ft against an F-15, from Lankenheath I believe. The 'Yanks' were confident of victory in their latest hot-rod fighter against a '50's vintage cold war design, but the Lightning won and upon landing and the pulling of the drag chute, the RAF crew had the following message written on it to their US challengers... UP YOURS YANKS! Still the best performing fighter the RAF has ever had, and you've done her proud here! Tom

Thanks for the kind words guys - and just for an interesting size comparison shot here she is along with a 1/48th example (left) and a 1/72nd B-17 (right) Tom

A fine review Nige - many thanks. Just one question - the Eduard sets seem to use 'standard' US interior green for the components that have been painted, but all research I've done points to this colour not being used on the Fort - instead it was a 'bronze green'. Any thoughts? Cheers, Tom

Thank you Wayne... I must confess I'm of the 'less is more' mould when it comes to weathering. I'm not particularly good at it either so this was about the limit of what my skills allow me to do. Cheers Tim - I think that somehow the OD/NG paint makes the issues with the kit less obvious. Maybe it's the lack of reflection off any NMF areas, but it certainly looks a lot more 'right' to my eye than aluminium finished examples I've seen. Or maybe it's just me? A good question... and the answer is a resounding 'no'. It is currently residing on a spare bed in our spare room along with a 1/32nd B-29, 1/32nd Lancaster, a part built 1/32nd Halifax, and a 1/72nd Boeing 747. The wife is starting to get a little touchy about it all - I think she's being very unreasonable The truth is in the long term some of these monsters will go out on loan to museums - I already have a 1/32nd B-24 at a museum at Bungay where the real aircraft I depicted was based during WWII. I love building these huge models, but storing them is certainly causing some headaches, but to be fair my wife is very understanding when it comes to my hobby. When I start my 1/32nd Sunderland though... I might end up living in it! Tom

A full 'WIP' was posted on Britmodeller for those interested: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234948884-132nd-scale-hk-b-17g-very-nearly-there/ All feedback, both good and bad, gladly received Tom

HK Models 1/32nd scale Boeing B-17G Flying Fortress This model represents ‘Skipper’; a Douglas-built B-17G 42-238129 assigned to the 367th Bomb Squadron, 306th Bomb Group, based at Thurleigh. This aircraft was one of 234 built by Douglas that had both staggered waist gun positions as well as the factory-fitted Cheyenne tail turret, and were delivered in camouflage finish. This particular aircraft entered service on 25th February 1944, and was still on strength with the 306th on VE-Day. The replacement natural metal starboard stabiliser, fin centre-section, both elevators and tail turret were necessary after the bomber was rammed from behind in a taxiing accident at Thurleigh in November 1944. After repair, ‘Skipper’ went on to complete over 100 missions. After hostilities ended, this veteran was transferred to the 398th BG at Nuthampsted on 28th May 1945, before flying back ‘across the pond’ in January 1945 where it resided at Kingman before succumbing to scrap man’s torch on 28th December of the same year. This model has been built more or less out of the box, with only very minor additions. I made the small 'ice windows' on the pilots' windscreens from careful masking and Archer rivets. Aftermarket seat-belts came from Eduard, and a few additional details were added here and there from Evergreen strip where I felt them necessary, such as under the flightdeck floor. I used Eduard’s exterior set which provided some vents and grills omitted by HK, as well as more detailed fuel filler caps. I didn’t use any interior sets, as I felt that the kit parts were perfectly adequate when painted up, and Eduard have used ‘standard’ US interior green on components rather than ‘bronze green’ used on the B-17. I sprayed on the bomb group markings myself, and used the kit decals for the ‘stars and bars’ etc. The ‘Skipper’ name was printed for me, and I used KitWorld’s excellent stencil set. All paints were from Hannants’ Xtracolour range. All in all a very straightforward and enjoyable build… although it’s an expensive model, if you’re a fan of the B-17 it’s a ‘must have’ kit. Was it worth the money? Roll on the B-17F version would be my answer to that! More detail pictures to follow...

I have a great picture of one of the Douglas built aircraft Tim is referring to in the book 'The B-17 Flying Fortress Story' by Roger Freeman. This book contains the history of each and every B-17 built, and it shows one of the OD/NG birds with the Cheyenne tail as well as the enclosed staggered waist windows - exactly right for the HK kit. The serial is B-17G-30-DL-42-38133 (just four away from the one I'm building) and was delivered to the 96th BG at Snetterton Heath on 15th January 1944. It was assigned to the 337th Bomb Squadron and was given the codes AW-O. It went MIA on 5th December 1944. Her name was 'Reluctant Dragon' but I haven't been able to find a shot of the nose art as of yet, but maybe with the above information you could find something? It's also interesting to find out when researching these aircraft that Skipper, of the same production batch, also would have been fitted with the OD Cheyenne turret. I have a colour picture of her in later service with a NMF replacement tail and had initially presumed she was fitted with the earlier 'stinger' tail. It just transpires that when she was rammed up the backside the original Cheyenne turret was just replaced with a new one! I'll do some more digging on 'Reluctant Dragon' and see if I can find any more info for you. With nearly a year's service under her belt she'd be pretty heavily weathered! Tom

Thanks Cees - I'll bear that in mind if I eventually get around to building it. Thanks for sharing your stories guys - hopefully in the future (the combat experiences and PTSD aside) some of my students may a similar story to tell. I've now completed the rudders on the Halifax, and they are now installed on the tail fins. Once again, as with the flaps and elevators, they were made from plastic card. I used thicker card this time as I needed to be able to sand it sufficiently to get the shapes right where the rudders curve along their top and bottom edges. Again, I took the slightly easier route here and scribed the surface detail on rather than attempt to re-create the slightly raised rib detail: The next few show the model now complete, with all flight control surfaces finished and installed: My next task is going to be re-scribing the surface detail lost during the filling and sanding process, and then I can think about adding some of the finer details such as completing the wheel bays and cockpit interior. Until next time, Tom

A Hampden eh? I must confess one if these hasn't really been on my radar, I simply don't know enough about it. I'd be interested to follow your progress though. I'm very tempted to order a Shorts Stirling. As I've got the Lancaster and Halifax I think it only right I complete the collection of Bomber Command's 'big three'... The trouble is that huge 1-32 Sunderland sitting in the stash is screaming at me "me next!" Tom

Couldn't agree more!

Thanks Wayne! I run a modelling club at my school, as well as teaching them the boring stuff such as maths and English! It's really popular and there's actually a waiting list to get in! I buy the Airfix starter packs and make it as fun as possible, but at the same time show them the skills they'll need to build a reasonable model. Some take it really seriously, others not so, but the main thing is they're enjoying a hobby and hopefully it'll sow the seed... If just one continues to build then I feel I've done my bit to promote and continue the hobby. It's all good fun! Tom

Cees, You are correct there is some dihedral, so my solution was to make some plastic card spars using the front views of the wing on the Granger plans. I inserted them into the ends of the inner wing sections first (securing them to the front and rear of the u/c bays) and when the glue had completely cured I slid the outer sections over the top of the protruding sections. Any gaps between the inner and outer sections were filled with a mixture of plastic card and car body filler to make a very strong join. Doug, In all truth it is easy - it's just a case of trial and error and have having some good plans to follow. There's nothing more challenging here than inserting a resin cockpit for example - in fact from experience having done a few of those I'd prefer to scratch-build any day of the week! I've almost completed the rudders now so hopefully I'll get them finished and attached over the weekend - standby for an update Thanks for the interest, Tom

Oh she's a "she" alright. In fact she's been a real b***h at times!! Tom