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Dennis.E

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Posts posted by Dennis.E

  1. I think your work is quite inspirational John....The physics of light when combined with photography, and the way in which our eyes and brain compartmentalize and define such information is complex, and really trip modelers who do not take the time to really think about what they are looking at...and why things look the way they do.

    You have nailed this John, and I take a bow (not to low or my bloody back will go again...) and applaud your abilities Sir!

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  2. I am going to stand up for all the financially struggling modelers across the world here Cees, and say a big THANK YOU!. For us these older kits are where it's at, and to see a modeler of your caliber take on this project (I too have finished one of these, and I actually really enjoyed the experience of 'modelling', as opposed to 'pour water in the box, leave it overnight at a low heat and your contest ready model will be ready in the morning' kits that I, for one, simply cannot afford.

    Since being made redundant and having to work at menial jobs and support my wife who cannot work, I now do what I can with older products, and it's great to see what can be made of them in the right hands.

    So, from me at least Cees, thank you Sir! Fantastic work.

  3. ..I think they were all white, as most of the cold war type aircraft were finished in a type of anti-flash white. How about a 'what if?' project??? That would open up all sorts of possibilities! Good luck. (Check the November issue of Model Airplane International to see what I mean).

     

    Dennis

  4. - Cees, I think the man means an F-14 Tomcat...not an F-4 Phantom...

     

    Are the plans you have about 7 sheets worth?? Back when I was designing and building radio controlled scale models I remember seeing such a set of plans. You will need a great deal of experience in that arena to complete such a project Jerry. Do you have experience in building radio controlled scaled models?

    On top of that, as I remember, this was a twin ducted fan unit model, which comes with further specialist techniques. These models are now powered by turbines - very specialized and very expensive.

    In saying all of that Jerry, don't let what I have just said scare you or put you off. Use a good 48 or 32 scale kit for reference. There are plenty of three views out there, and I am sure there are other plan sets out there now as well. It's a matter of how accurate you want the finished model. Even the filming models built for Top Gun would not even qualify for Top Gun (the premier radio controlled model aviation competition).

     

    If you just want a display model, I would build it up in sections over your plans, make molds and cast your parts in a light weight fibreglass, and use a connecting mechanism that will enable you to test fit the pieces prior to assembly.

     

    Insofar as absolute accuracy goes Jerry, you could try emailing the customer relations division at Grumman Aerospace (unless they have been sold at fire sale and merged), tell them of your project and see what help they could give you.

    They can only say no mate....

     

    I hope this helps Jerry, and good luck with the project!

     

    Dennis

  5. The shelf of shame....???. I have a project in a similar state Matt - I totally buggered up my Trumpy Skyraider, resurrected it as best I could with liberal doses of superglue and coarse language, and started to paint...then left it.Period.

    You know what my problem was...??? I had become too worried about what others thought of the thing. When I realized that....(oh bugger, it's still sitting there...) anyway Matt, pull that great 109 down off the 'shelf of shame' 'cause there is nothing wrong with it mate, and jump back in......really!!!

     

    Happy new year!!

    • Like 1
  6. Hi Rog,

                   ...What you are doing here mate is cleaning mold release chemical residue from the resin components - this is done per quality control in plastic components/kits by the larger, more mainstream manufacturers such as Tamiya, Hasegawa etc...

    Warm to the touch - if you can put your mitt in the water without wanting to immediately head for the roof is fine. I use dish washing liquid as this does the trick nicely..now grab the wife's dish washing scrubber and give each peice a good scrubbing. You want to remove any residual mold release agent from the peice. Use something like a toothbrush for smaller pieces, and be careful of smaller parts heading for the plug hole. Bloody hard to find if they do Rog, especially amoungst all that sudsy water...

     

    When you have scrubbed all your pieces, place all parts on a tee towel and empty the sink. Now wash out all traces of soap/dish washing liquid suds, then carefully wash each part under running water (cold water is fine mate). Give each part a good rinse, then I allow them all to air dry. It's a good test of your patience...

     

    I feel the whole issue of priming over plastic is a personnel choice. More of an issue when dealing with resin or photoetch. I'm sure the other guys will have an opinion on this; ultimately I think that's up to you Rog. Do make sure and prime all photoetch. I lay down an undercoat of matt black over resin (and plastic now for that matter) as it helps at the other end of the project with depth, and the black also absorbs light without refraction giving a more realistic finish. Again Rog, that's your call - that's just what I do.

     

    Properly stirred, Tamiya acrylics will stick to resin and plastic equally well - that has been my personnel experience anyway.

     

    Happy new year Rog - I hope my two cents worth has helped in some way...

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