[Tamiya 1/48 F-14A; Update: 4/19/24 - DONE AND IN THE BOOKS]

Looking great Peter and absolutely dynamic. I didn´t wonder at all, when you described, there were only a very few blemishes after priming. I had a huge reload of Tamiya Kabuki tape lately, as some builds require virtually square meters. If you want some relaxation from the Kabuki burden, build a WNW AEG. There is nearly no masking involved, if only because you don´t dare to put tape onto the overall lozenge decals .

Cheers Rob

[Soo.... What did you just get???]

My wife returned yesterday from her Berlin trip and brought back some goodies for me.
You wouldn´t think it special, but where I life, it´s nearly impossible to get Tamiya cement anymore. It´s in 40ml jars and only 30 ml are allowed to be shipped internationally, so I´m glad these will last for a while now. I added some Tamiya lacquer flat and semi flat clears - and-
The Proxxon foot pedal. It´s pure genius, if you often use your Proxxon for drilling, polishing or routing. Have you ever experienced, drilling a 0,5 mm hole and finding the right spot with the rotating drill bit. Not anymore, set it in place and tap, why haven´t I seen this before.

 

Lots of polishing bits for my Model Factory Hiro´s white metal preparation. Yes, it´s plural, there will not only my Crocker motorcycle from MFH, but another one is on it´s way.
Some thin copper wire for producing my own eyelets and other causes and finally some Gaspatch resin eyelets, where I hope they take the strain of fishing line riggging. The metal ones were nearly completely spent on the WNW AEG lately.

 

Cheers Rob

[Marine Mud Mover: PBJ-1H Gun Ship “Love Bug” VMB-613 in early 1945]

I like it as it is Ernie, gives some depth to the paintjob. I guess these planes weren´t polished after every turn.

Cheers Rob

[AEG G.IV - Creature of the Night - WNW 1/32]

1 hour ago, BlrwestSiR said:

Just catching up on your build Rob. The decal and prep work is excellent as the other have mentioned.

I'm not sure I could manage such a fragile model without constantly breaking something

The struts are really the only very fragile parts, especially these for the nacelles. They have fair sized connecting points, but directly behind, they are extremely thin and fragile. Not to forget, that some of these points need to be rigged and therefore drilled.

Cheers Rob

[JetMads 1/32 Viggen]

Ooops, these gear bay doors look really ugly, hope you can fix that, Gus. The good thing with the splinter camo, as extensive the application is, it will hide the little bumps here and there for sure.

Cheers Rob

[Tamiya Mosquito FB Mk VI 60326 - 1/32]

Some years ago, I mad this little stand for Set and Sol.
 

The Mossie is looking absolutely fantastic, Phil. Thanks for the info about the barrels. I will substitute them with Brassin, but may will have the same problems. Will you weather her or leave her factory fresh?

Cheer Rob

[Soo.... What did you just get???]

Some kits arrived after a long trip from Japan, the packet including my eagerly awaited Infini 0,135 mm flexible rigging line.

A Tamiya P-47, for which I have to wait for a special decal set. Would be the perfect in between build.

I like the Cosmo and the resin figure is way too cool, to let it pass. I´ve never seen the Japanese TV show, but anyway...

Last but not leas, my first Dinosaur kit from X-Plus in 1/35. Do I hear ´build a weird dio´?

Cheers Rob

 

[AEG G.IV - Creature of the Night - WNW 1/32]

Today, my long awaited parcel from Japan arrived, which included my Infini 0,135 mm aero flexible rigging thread. I never used the stuff and was eager to see, if it is suitable for the classic ´ thread through tube - then through the eyelet - and back a second time through the tube ´rigging and it worked. So this will be my method of rigging the nacelles, which are very delicate with their struts. The outer wings will be made with the same process, but with mor rigid fishing line instead for extra stability.

Cheers Rob

[AEG G.IV - Creature of the Night - WNW 1/32]

27 minutes ago, Jeff said:

I totally agree with Martin and Peter.  This is a really epic build. And as Peter said , sorting out the issues as well. Seems to me , your sorting is absolutely on the right track. And the decaling is superb. Not sure if I missed it or not , but what decal softener did you use ? Did I miss that part? Excellent work, Rob.

Thank you Jeff, if you look closely, there are some tiny folds and creases in the decals, but nothing too critical. It´s difficult, to handle the wings, without damaging the decals, especially on the sharp trailing edge. I will have to patch a little t the final stages.

I used lukewarm water with a drop of detergent to apply the decals, used a flat brush to get rid of bubbles and then hit everything with MicroSol. Around the corners, I added Tamiya decal adhesive softener type and a hairdryer, which is essential. I tried Tamiya Mark strong softener, but it proved too aggressive and on the tiny spots, I used it, I diluted it with water.

Cheers Rob

[AEG G.IV - Creature of the Night - WNW 1/32]

2 hours ago, Martinnfb said:

What I am finding fascinating is the fact that you're able to manipulate this thing without breaking anything. Fantastic work Rob.

Thank you Martin, the kit is delicate, but due to the relative short fuselage relatively save to handle. That will alter, when the wings will be attached finally.
I broke two struts though, simply while test fitting. They are very fragile close to their connecting lugs.

Cheers Rob

[AEG G.IV - Creature of the Night - WNW 1/32]

4 hours ago, Peterpools said:

Amazing progress and just so many issues to deal with - glad you are sorting them all out, one by one. I'm surprised that they were bent struts in a WNW kit - was it molded that way or some heat over the years took its toll as they seem to be very delicate? 

Decaling work is extraordinary and perfectly done. 🏆

Thank you Peter, it´s a critical state of the build, where everything comes together and a good plan is necessary. The struts were bent on the sprue, unfortunately. One of the engine cages (the tube construction holding the un-cowled engine) was completely broken and mis-casted. Luckily, my plan was to only show one engine without cowlings.

Cheers Rob

[AEG G.IV - Creature of the Night - WNW 1/32]

Today, I test fitted the engine nacelles with their struts to the fuselage/wings, not for vanity, instead for good reason, as it proved impossible to add the cabane struts to their fuselage holes, which they share with the nacelle´s struts. I will have to shave a bit off the lugs, despite, there is no color onto the lugs and holes in the fuselage. While testing, I broke one strut, because these are very fragile, close to the connection points. As this is the area, where some rigging lines lead, later, there is no way drilling through the strut and to weaken it further. I have to find another way and may rigg the nacelles with elastic thread.

Speaking of cabane struts. If you ever build a WNW AEG, watch out closely, when to add them. They skipped my attention in the manual completely, until I inspected the rigging diagram and asked myself, where do these struts come from. I found them relatively hidden in the manual then.

I then drilled out all the holes in the wings, where attachment points for the rigging will be with a 0,4 mm drill bit and then added Gaspatch metal cast eyelets, glued in with CA, orientated that the struts won´t interfere with rigging too much. 
Before airbrushing and decaling the wings,  made photos to show, where the holes for the eyelets lay, which proved to be helpful now, when I probed them with a needle.

With my kit, one side of the cabane struts where completely bent on the sprue. I tried to righten them, but that proved extremely difficult, as I didn´t want to break them. I used a hairdryer and bent them little by little. You can see one of the struts still bent on the picture. 

Cheers Rob

[AEG G.IV - Creature of the Night - WNW 1/32]

I finished decaling the wings and matte coated them. I´m happy to have finished the decal phase now, never in my builds, decals have covered nearly the whole kit like here. I also started to weather the fuselage and will prepare the wings now, with fitting in the eyelets for rigging.

The manual mentioned, that many AEG´s received a yellow / green tinted varnish over the lozenge cloth and I will see, If I replicate that too.

She is a big girl for sure.

Cheers Rob

[Badger Compressor just sprung a leak]

I really liked my old Aero-Pro compressor, it never failed me, lasting 34 years of permanent use and minimal maintenance, the last years usually with humidity between 80 and 95%, but last year it leaked.

 

I ordered the fastest available one, with good reviews and all the features I'm looking for. In my case it was the Sparmax TC-620X. Living remote like me, there is not a great deal of availability and after nearly a year, I have to say, I like the Sparmax a lot, running relatively silent and not permanently due to the air tank. I doubt, it will last for 34 years like the old one, but seems to be build solid.
 

[Wingnut Wings Handley Page O/100]

What a fantastic chance, Ernie, a one in a million build, it doesn´t get more exclusive. WNW twins are a pure joy to build, but this is HUGE, I guess the tail in itself is larger than a Camel. The camo does it´s job, it´s hard to see all the details. Can´t wait to see some progress with that beast and yes, fishing line rigging might be a good idea for the wings as well.

Cheers Rob

[AEG G.IV - Creature of the Night - WNW 1/32]

On 3/26/2024 at 12:30 PM, Peterpools said:

WOW, decaling looks simply tremendous and your approach and technique absolutely was the right way to go. Mix in a lot of patience and skill and the results speak for themselves. 

Your rigging POA sounds foolproof and I'll be following all the way.

Thank you Peter, but I changed my planned modus operandi for simplified rigging for several reasons.
- Since weeks, I´m waiting for my Infini elastic rigging thread to arrive from Japan, but it´s still a no show.
- I don´t want to put on the upper wing lozenge decals as the last step of the build. Better now, with sealing everything, and having a coherent weathering.
- Old school fishing line rigging with brass tubes enhances the rigidity of the wings and struts, not too bad with 60cm of wingspan.

No pictures as of yet, but I´m finalizing the lozenge decal at the moment and started to weather the fuselage and struts.

Cheers Rob

[Revell Razor Crest - Finished]

Looking good, the tedious masking was worth it. You can enhance the worn effect, by carefully sanding over the yellow, which erases the harsh corners a bit and gives a worn look.

Cheers Rob 

[Cylon Raider]

The lighting makes something special out of the raider, Carl. The only thing missing is a tiny moving red light inside the cockpit .

Cheers Rob

[Revell He 111 P]

19 hours ago, ScottsGT said:

Hey Peter,  My “big gun” airbrush is the Grex Tritium with the fan nozzle.  It can blast some paint for an airbrush!  I should be good to go.  I opted out for the spray can of primer because I’ve had it on hand a few years and didn’t feel like swapping over airbrush’s yet.  My regular work airbrush is the Iwata HP-CS.  
And still trying to figure out how to make the model fit in the paint booth! 

Lucky guy, Scott, where I live, it´s impossible to get Tamiya´s rattle cans sent to. Actually, even Tamiya extra thin is a problem, but my wife will bring me some from her Berlin trip.

Cheers Rob

[Soo.... What did you just get???]

2 hours ago, PanzerWomble said:

Gonna be 1:1 scale for the next few months 

... and after that, 1/12? . Nice bike, with a air cooled engine, you don´t see that very much nowadays. I had a Suzuki GSX-750 once, a naked bike, which  really liked, until I changed it for a KTM SM 950, but that was a different breed.

Cheers Rob

[AEG G.IV - Creature of the Night - WNW 1/32]

After half a square meter of lozenge decals, I have most of the wings finished. The process of decaling is very time consuming, but the decals behave very well, given these are the largest, I ever worked with. Fit is still outstanding.
A good sequence helps, starting with the undersides from inside to outside. Then softener and hairdryer in iterative circles, until the decal settled around the corners and then on with the upper side. Good work for days, where you don´t have the time for continuous hours at the bench, but work an hour here another there, over the complete days. The most difficult parts were the smaller ailerons, where it is hard to lay the decals around the corners with relatively mild softeners.

Now it´s decision time, I haven´t decaled the upper side of the upper wing, because of my pre thought rigging method.
I will use proper eyelets and small brass tube sections for the lower wing side of the rigging, but initially had the idea, to drill the rigging holes in the upper wing through, using flexible rigging thread, inserted through these holes and use only a piece of brass tube as a fake turnbuckle. Then I could glue the taught rigging threads in place cut the rest off and decal over on top to hide the holes.

The proper way would be rigging lower and upper side with eyelets and brass tubes and fishing line as rigging thread, which even strengthen the wing assembly.

Cheers Rob

 

[AEG G.IV - Creature of the Night - WNW 1/32]

On 3/24/2024 at 1:49 AM, seiran01 said:

Bloody superb progress!

Thank you seiran, it´s a rewarding build, but has it´s repetitive parts, like decaling lozenge, which is pretty time consuming.

Cheers Rob

[JetMads 1/32 Viggen]

Starts to look seriously Viggen, Gus, except the Canard wings, of course. You seem to have a good pace with the Swedish bird now. I would have left the pylons off until after painting the splinter, I guess.

Cheers Rob

[Soo.... What did you just get???]

1 hour ago, Peterpools said:

Nice buys for sure. I've been thinking about the weathering pencils for a while and would appreciate your feelings and thoughts on them after testing them out. Then I would make a decision on whether or not to buy a set.   

I like the pencils a lot, Peter. I have the same set and use them on regular base. You can use them dry for highlighting, where some colors adhere better than others to the plastic. Where they really shine is dampened. You can produce a kind of multi color wash or panel line effect.

Here are some pictures of my 1/20 MAK AmmoKnight, where I used the pencils dampened for interior weathering.

Cheers Rob

[Meng 1/12 McLaren MP4/4]

Interesting to hear Rog, thank you for starting this and comparing it to the Beemax kit.

Cheers Rob