Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

9,630 Excellent


About DocRob

  • Rank
    LSM Addict

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Spanish Islands

Recent Profile Visitors

4,728 profile views
  1. Hola fellow car lovers and modelistas, A while ago I got some relatively cheap car kits and among them was this kit of Tamiya's Ford GT MK.II. My first thought was to build it and give the body a paintjob made by rubbed metallic waxes from AK in bronze and copper tones, but then I bought an 1/12 Tamiya Porsche and a Lotus Ford type 79 and decided, to approach the Ford GT a little bit more serious, as a test mule for all these mysterious car paint techniques, I have no idea about. The kit itself is a gem, with great fit and clever engineering and goes together in a breeze, so this
  2. Noice, the NMF looks great, with it's dulled shine and accentuates the fine lines of your A-26. Cheers Rob
  3. These sets look amazing. I thought about the Fly Wessex more than once, but I'm not much of a helicopter-guy, but who knows... . About these intake meshes. Maybe some Air funnel meshes, which are available for different historic Formula One cars are generally fitting and can be bend into shape. Here is an example: Air Funnel Mesh for DFV, Model Factory Hiro P-909 (2003) (scalemates.com) Cheers Rob
  4. On such a big model, it could be interesting to simulate the light cast of the surface waves on the upper hull sides, to get a bigger variety into the paintjob. That depends of course on the dio, maybe you could enhance the idea with the shadow of the preying B-24 . Cheers Rob
  5. The paneling effect looks a bit harsh to my eye, but you said you will blend it further, so it will turn out nice, Kai. I use Infinity airbrushes as well, along with my old Rotring airbrushes, which have the slight advantage to be only one and a half action and therefore more relaxing to handle. I tend to cramp my fingers on lengthy airbrush sessions with my Infinity's. For Vallejo Air, I use the Rotring's exclusively, because they have a rounded protruding needle tip, which you can clean with a dampened finger. Generally I avoid Model Air more and more, as they are either to thin and do
  6. They do spray perfect Carl, and you can thin them heavily for building up layers very subtle. Yesterday I sprayed some silver titanium among others and I absolutely loved the result and this is my new goto titanium ahead of the good looking, but unbelivable fragile Alclad and the nice, but not perfect toned Xtreme Metal from AK. After trying on some sprues, I decided to spray the non body colors directly onto the plastic without primer. I had no reactions with the plastic at all, but will prime the body, wanting a durable coat for sanding and polishing. Let's see about the WIP, there ar
  7. Amazing, how the oils tie everything together. your progress is looking great Gaz. I discovered oil colors for varying effects over the last year and can't tell you, how I lived without them before. I plan to paint my PZL P.11 only by brush, using oil colors as an experiment. Cheers Rob
  8. Thanks Peter and indeed, the Ford GT kit is superb. I can only imagine, how hard it must have been to engineer the complicated body panels of the car, but they fall together. Building the GT is a breezer, painting and finishing will be the challenge here. I have absolutely no experiences with car builds and high gloss finishes, so the Ford is my test dummy, before I start more serious car projects. Cheers Rob
  9. Besides some chaos with the remainders of the Hellcat build, the started PZL, I opted for the 1/24 Ford GT from Tamiya as an in between project, to train my car painting skills. I wanted to test Tamiya's lacquer paints for cars and they are absolutely great. Thinned with two thirds of lacquer thinner they spray smooth and fine grained and the gloss black is really glossy. I cut all the parts from the sprues and cleaned them and will poco a poco airbrush everything. I haven't primed the painted parts and I'm not sure, if I will prime the body. It will be sprayed in metallic blue and hopefully h
  10. The engine is looking great, with the beautiful metal shades and added detail. I have only the Roden kit in stash along with some goodies. I may buy a second Lukgraph engine for the DR I, the first was used in the Mikro Mir Fokker D.VIII and it's a splendid piece of 3D printing. The Mingweng engine doesn't need a substitute it seems, just the updates you added. Cheers Rob
  11. That's why I always liked the Panzer III variants better, shorter chassis, less track links. Only 180 to go . Cheers Rob
  12. This will be a bright scheme Gus, love it. If the white underlayed yellow is bordering against the other colors, you may can sand this back a little, carefully. This will look stunning in the end. Cheers Rob
  13. Thanks Phil, you should be tempted, it's a pure fun project and I guess, the 1/48 Eduard Hellcat is the best H-cat in any scale. It is an easy build and a great canvas for painting and weathering, with lots of schemes to choose and last but not least, it can be build out of the box, if you get a Profi Pack, with the PE included. Cheers Rob
  14. Great work on the commander, I like the skin- and black tones in their variations. On the tank, I especially like the wheels and rims and the different dust tones enhancing depth of the undercarriage. Cheers Rob
  15. Thank you Peter, the Hellcat was a pure pleasure project, aside from the wet transfers problems, which made it easier to focus on painting and finish. Cheers Rob
  • Create New...