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About DocRob

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    LSM Addict

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    Spanish Islands

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  1. I use the Meng incarnation of the cutter since a year now and yes, I like the sharpness of it's blades, but can't find mayor advantages to my Tamiya cutter. One thing, I especially don't like about the Meng is, that sometimes with fragile parts the sharp of the two blades got stuck into the plastic and there is a risk of breaking the part while removing it. Cheers Rob
  2. Thanks Phil, can't wait to make the next one on a Fokker D.VII, but next time with another cushion colour. After the Hansa Brandenburg, it's the second green one. Time for a maroon or dark red pillow. Like you, I absolutely love the AK metals. They spray perfect, have a fine grain and they are durable, that's the most important advantage over Alclads, where some collours were impossible to mask over. The waxes are great too, very versatile stuff. Cheers Rob
  3. Thanks Carl, I hope, I get everything together fitting into the fuselage. I've seen different pictures of uncovered aluminum seats, not the least, the pic wich came with the Aviattic seat. How did you finish the seat of your D.VII, should be the same or very similar type of seat? Cheers Rob
  4. Très cool Carl, what a beast. Cheers Rob
  5. Thanks Jeff, one of the reasons of my recently arisen interest in WWI planes is the depiction of the various used materials. Wood, linen, different metals,..., it's a canvas for trying new techniques. Cheers Rob
  6. Hola Señhores, progress is very slowly with the Fokker. It's not that easy to get everything aligned into the fuselage. There are virtually no attachment points and the manual is not helpful either. A great help have been the build logs of Sandbagger Mike here and another one on the Aviattic site. All inner fuselage parts received a Flory wash of dirty grime and then I glued the shortened side frames into the fuselage parts. With some creative bending, they were aligned and left to dry. Next was the already prepared seat. I CA'd the framing to the spar and added the Aviattic
  7. Welcome to LSM Pintar and I'm sure you will be helped here because the members are resourceful and willing to share. Your basic process sounds right, paint, gloss coat, decals, solvents if necessary and then sealing with a varnish. Since I never worked with Revell colours, I can't tell you how they perform, but generally it is good thinking to develop a good working solution for the hole process for yourself with testing the stages. There are many hidden obstacles, like do the decals tend to silver, how thick are they,... Some products don't interact well, like gloss coat and decal solven
  8. Thanks Gaz, but what black leather do you mean, it's only wood, metal and inner Lozenge yet? Cheers Rob
  9. That weird thing looks fantastic with your paintjob, keep rolling. Cheers Rob
  10. Thanks Jeff, still a long way to go, I have to get the look right, used, but not overused this time. Cheers Rob
  11. Muchas gracias Kai. Meanwhile the engine received some love, but some details still needed to be added or repaired, because I dropped the engine and broke some rockers and spark plugs. For painting, I used AK's Extreme Metals, which are great to work with. First I sprayed the complete engine in steel, then added some transparent blue (hard to see on the pics but it's there) on the heads of the cylinders for heat treatment, then used stainless steel for the rockers and finally aluminum for the casings. The exhausts were finished in copper. The whole engine got a black panel wash and t
  12. The bottle? Noooo wayyy , it has to be used in a properly way. Cheers Rob
  13. Nice Harv, I have to admit, that I'm to lazy to mask the inside. I mask the outside, spray the interior colour first and then the extrior colour. I may make an exeption for let's say a 109 with the wide open canopy Cheers Rob
  14. First I thought, I would use brass tube and use it structural, to give the inward bend front fuselage sides the correct widening. Instead my proposed solution, is to use a spar made from plastic sheet and cut the plastic framing to size. The plastic is soft and bendable, so I hope, I get it right. I don't think, that you can look that deep into the fuselage, that you will be able to spot the spar behind the ammo boxes. Cheers Rob
  15. I built their Raiden some years ago, my only Hasegawa build until yet, but it went together like a breeze. It built up almost by itself with me concentrating on painting and weathering. Was almost to easy to build without PE and resin . edit: Forgot, that I built the P-47D in Eduard outfit as Dottie Mae. A good kit too, but needed some extra work on the cowl and in the pit. Cheers Rob
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