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The Great LSP Twins Group Build Starts Jan 24, 2024 - End July 3, 2024 ×

DocRob

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  1. Maybe it´s a shale , I´m overly happy, that I didn´t ruin the AEG. Cheers Rob
  2. This may not mean a lot to most of you, but I got the decaled fuselage sealed in. I feared bad reactions with `hot´ varnishes, but because of my planned weathering schedule, I wanted a durable sealing coat, a contradiction. First, I wiped down the whole airframe with a cotton towel and purified water, to get rid of decal solution residues. I took out god old Tamiya X-22 clear and mixed it with Tamiya acrylic thinner and sprayed it on some test parts, so far so good. When I sprayed on my decaled test elevator, the finish looked like marbled and scratched, bummer. With shaking hands, I mixed the ´hot´ Tamiya lacquer LP-32 flat clear with equally ´hot´ levelling thinner at a ratio of about 55% thinner, less than normal and cautiously sprayed the tail underside and immediately blew the varnish dry with the airbrush, to minimize reaction time. Hooray, it worked, no smelt decals and a nice and even near flat coat. Even the resprayed elevator was rescued, with over spraying and looks good now. Cheers Rob
  3. What´s holding you then, Jeff , this is the perfect gateway drug, but don´t blame me, when you are hooked on the stuff. Depending on the type of D.VII, there are so many colorful schemes to choose. If you like, there are top notch decal sets around, taylormade by Aviattic in the UK. The lozenge decals look way better, than the WNW ones and they are great to work with. The best, they have a woven linen structure, which looks so realistic. Cheers Rob
  4. Muchas gracias amigos, working on the nacelles and engine was pur fun, even with their fragile multi part character. I´m always afraid, when I start a WNW build, but settle in with the interior and engines, as there is so much to show and the precision of the kit helps, getting everything together. I have to confess, i had to consult the manual several times for getting everything in it´s correct place following a logical sequence. Good to know, that Tamiya now produces acrylic flat and semi gloss, but I had some issues with good old X-clear, which I will describe in the next picture post. Cheers Rob
  5. You should give a WNW kit a try, best for starters are German single engine fighters, like the Fokker D.VII or Junkers D.1 with nearly no rigging. Generally, German rigging is simpler, because of the normal wire used, instead of flat wire with the British planes. A Copper State Nieuport could also be considered or the MengNut Fokker DR.I. Cheers Rob
  6. Thanks Carl, I got another question considering the gun barrels, I never saw them protruding on a 262 like with yours, secret weapon? sniper version? Cheers Rob
  7. Not anymore on my to buy list, but ordered Saturday. When I saw the announcement of the MFH Crocker with the big tank, I was immediately in love. I never liked Harley´s that much, mainly because I hate the middle section with the battery / airbox?, which ruins the entire design for me. The Crocker shows, it can be made different, what a beauty. Cheers Rob
  8. Woah, this is getting epic, Kevin. I feel your pain about adding all these details, but once you started.... I feel set back to the times, where I build the USS Arizona and I guess, there are not so many small scale ship builds following. Cheers Rob
  9. Your 262 looks fantastic Carl. Bummer with the decals, were these the original Revell ones. I wonder, because I thought they were of relatively good quality. 1ManArmy masks on German planes are a lot of work, because of the many used colors and walkways, which I experienced with my Arado 234. When I build my 262, I will give the HGW wet transfers a (last?) shot. Cheers Rob
  10. Phew, I got some work done over the last days. The engine nacelles were not the easiest part of the build. Many fragile parts were to paint weather and mount, and I´m really lucky, it is a WNW kit with great engineering and fit. Look alone for the filigrane tubing around the exposed engine, unbelievable. I applied Tamiya XF-17 onto the outside of the cowlings and struts onto the hairspray. When dried, I dampened the parts, activating the hairspray and abused the surfaces with toothpicks, fiber pencil and other scratching tools with an emphasize on the sheet borders and fasteners. Again, all the painted parts were glued together using CA, which I prefer to runny plastic cement with near ready parts. Unfortunately, I broke an engine strut, where it connects to the lug, which will be inserted into the wing later, damn, a very important connection. Out with the 0,5 mm drill bit, drilled both ends and inserted a brass rod along CA Left nacelle Right nacelle Later, I will apply some brown Flory clay wash, but this has to wait, until I have the fuselage weathered, to achieve a similar finish. I mocked some picture, carefully mounting the nacelles to the beast. Cheers Rob
  11. Thank you Jeff, I´m blushing. The bad thing about the macro pics on a computer, they reveal a few spots, I need to address later, so to me writing a log is very helpful too, besides, I sometimes forget a color used at the beginning and that´s why I mostly describe, which I used. I like to challenge myself with most of my bits, learning new techniques and document them in the thread as a lesson learned and reflection. If this helps others too, I´m very grateful, as this is the idea of a forum to me. Seeing your builds, I have to say, there is nothing to hide, they are absolute beautiful. Considering the quality of the base kits it´s easy to spot your talent. What I want to say with this is, you should try a WNW kit ones. The quality of the kits makes it easy to shine. You don´t have to fuss about the plastic a lot and concentrate on painting and weathering. Cheers Rob
  12. Thank you Peter, the next step will be to decide over the clear coat. I want it slightly matted as a base for my weathering. The H&S thingies are called sketching caps, when I recall it right. With a quick view, I haven´t found them for sale, but there are 3D print files for similar ones out there. Cheers Rob
  13. Great progress Peter. Like Chris said, thanks for showing the colors used. Will come in handy, when I build my -D. Cheers Rob
  14. It´s hard to center a drill bit perfectly for drilling out a gun barrel or similar, because of the dead center. What helps, is to stick a fresh triangular blade to the tip of the gun nozzle and carefully rotate the blade, marking the center. Then it´s easy to finalize the hole with a drilling bit. Cheers Rob
  15. I don´t know, if H&S sell them separately, but they should fit onto other Infinity muzzles as well. They replace the needle protector cap, which I don´t use normally. X-22 with some added flat base came to mind Peter, thinned with normal Tamiya thinner, which shouldn´t be too aggressive. Applied, like Carl said, a misted, fast drying coat and then more. Cheers Rob
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