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DocRob last won the day on June 2

DocRob had the most liked content!

About DocRob

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    LSM Member
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    Spanish Islands

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  1. Hi doc, when are you going to start on your "owl"? Cheers Oz

    1. DocRob


      Hi Ozzy, everytime I see the box in the stash I open it, look for the parts and the AM and think about that same question. But there are so many other great kits in my shelves and on the bench.... I have to finish my contribution to the Resin Group Build (Red Star 47) and the started BF-109 and it is not only planes I'm interested in, so there might be a tank or some Sci-Fi stuff in between. Many words for an 'I don't know', eh :).

      Hope to let you not too unsatisfied with that.

      Cheers Rob

  2. No comments on the best chipping method? Then I have to rely on my own method thinking . I will try to do the base chipping with liquid mask dabbed onto the silver primed fuselage and wings with a fine stiff brush. I try to empasis the spars and seamlines to do so, as to achieve a stressed surface effect. I deceided against the hairspray method, because I'm afraid of peeling to much paint of when masking with tape for later stages of painting. Raiden with goose skin: First paint for the pilot: Cheers Rob
  3. Hola Drevelia, welcome to the LSM-Community. That is a real statement you posted there. Great attention to detail and perfect finish and execution on a setting, which is truly large scale. I can imagine the amount of work you put into this scene, and the result is very convincing. Who is producing these figures by the way, they don't look like Dragon ones? Keep on rolling Rob
  4. Hi Michael, what is new considering the AM-Situation of the Mossie? All your WNW-birds have been older . I decieded for my build to stay with the provided wheels as they are looking great built right out of the box. I will use the HGW Wet transfers No. 232011 for the stenciling as I have not the best of expierience using Tamiya decals (Corsair) and some Aires 60lb Rockets No. 320064 For the Insignia, Codes and Cockpit I will use Maketar Masks No. 60326. There will be a heavy dose of Brassin (Gun Bay, Nose Guns and Exhausts). The kit engines are ok for me, so no Brassin there. Last but not least some Fabric belts and some Cockpit Placards (I'm not sure if I use them) from Eduard and that is it for my build. Hope that helps after so many WNW builds. Cheers Rob
  5. Very beautiful Mossie. nice finish and detail work and fast as always. In the time you finalize a kit I could bring a 'Lego Duplo' set for a two-year-old together . Cheers Rob
  6. Very cool, indeed. Cheers Rob
  7. Beautiful result. I keep that in mind for the future start of my Mossie-Project. Thanx for making them available. Cheers Rob
  8. Some updates on the Raiden. Sprayed the whole bird in Tamiya XF 16 Flat Aluminum as a base for chipping. I noticed, that in my case Flat Aluminum is pigmented finer than Tamiya Chrome Silver. Until now I'm not decided about the chipping method. With hairspray I'm a little afraid about pulling the paint off in later masking stages, so maybe it will be the salt, scratch and/or liquid mask method. Any comments or opinions about the best way to achieve a nice chipping are welcome. The prop is sprayed Tamiya XF-10 Flat Brown, to the tips I lightened the color with a drop of sand color and to the root and backside I misted a little darker shade. After drying I removed the masks for the yellow stripes. Chipping was next. I scratched the brown color away with a scalpel, added some pencil dots and stripes and some light gray crayon marks. That is how the single blade looks before applying a gloss coat for the decals. My prop had a hard life, sticks and stone.... Cheers Rob
  9. Nice finish, you nailed it. Your G-10 represents both, the worn look of a well used plane and the end of an evolution of the BF 109 in general. Cheers Rob
  10. Some WIP-shots of the last progress. The cockpit is sealed and I brushed the anti glare panels on the fuselage and the cowling using AK-Interactive Q1 Anti-Glare-Blue-Black. The Japanese AK-Colors sprayed well and finely, but were not that opaque then e.g. Tamiya acrylics. From their behavior I would recommend to use a primer, which is not always necessary with other brands if the underground is clean and fat free. The prop is primed, airbruhed in silver for later to apply dents and scratches, then sprayed yellow on the tips. The stripes wwhere masked of and next is the ominous Japanese late war Propeller brown. I will use Tamiya XF-10 Flat Brown. The flattened tires where stuck on the landing gear struts. The lighting is not the best, there are some pigments on the wheels to give them the used look. As always I used Tyre Black from the Lifecolor range, which is all but entire black. I'm still not deceided about braking lines. Cheers Rob
  11. Hola Senhoras? e Senhores, some little progress is made on my little Raiden project. The hull is closed and the wings are attached. I decieded against filling, because the fit was really good. The pit. Yeah I know the steering coloumn is broken. I will refit that with the pilot figure. Wheelstruts still need a little touchup. I used Bare Metal Foil for the first time. I'm not decieded about adding braking lines (OOB-build) I wasted no time with the engine just some silver and a wash, because you need a fibre optic to see anything of that. No modern art, theese are the exhausts. Sprayed in Alclad II 'Exhaust Manifold', dabbed in pigment fixer and then finished with rust, sand and smoke Pigments. Cheers Rob
  12. Thank you coolbox and Tom, @ Tom: Is there a special question you have about my technique, a certain step in the painting process you want more detail about? The dials of the Raiden cockpit are depicted very clear and risen enough for detail painting, that makes it easier. I used the decals as a coloring guide. The most difficult part is to pick out the white dials. I did that before painting the light grey blendings, so a small dot of white in the wrong place can be corrected easily. I used a very fine brush 5/0 which was a little stiff on the tip. I painted half dry with a flat angle to not reach the black background of the dials. The last step is to dab a little bit of gloss varnish on the dials which enhances the contrast and gives a glasslike look. Cheers Rob
  13. A real beauty, and looking new and fresh without the stains . Can't wait to start mine in double size after such a nice reference. Cheers Rob
  14. I can't really remember, why I use a workbench anymore, some utility pants do the job, lots of cargo space for glue, tools and brushes and for difficult assemblies a piece of cardboard for the thighs. All illuminated with a headlamp and of course gloves for wintertime. A new trend is born OUTDOOR MODELLING. Have fun, Rob
  15. Nice paintjob, a well used, worn late war appeareance. Cheers Rob