sandbagger

Hi all, The cockpit so far. The details of what was done is a bit lengthy to post here. However, it will all be in my build log once the model is finished. Basically: The cockpit decking panel was cut a the rear used to create the new panel. Instrument panel cut and attached to a plastic card curved former. A box of two forward former's was made and attached to the rear of the engine bulkhead. The fuel tank and rudder bar attached to the lower wing. Foot boards modified with the control column. Seat frame cut and a 'Barracuda' resin seat attached. False firewall added behind the pilots seat. Left cockpit side frame - throttle assembly moved one bay rearwards - vertical and horizontal structure added with plastic rod and strip. Right cockpit side frame - pressure pump moved one bay rearwards - vertical and horizontal structure added with plastic rod and strip. Revised fuselage forward decking panel (x2) cut and shaped from 0.2 mm thick plastic card (will be be fitted over the added fuselage former's after closing the fuselage. There's still other detail to add to the cockpit after painting (wires, cables and pipes etc) Mike Sopwith 'Camel and Comic' overlay (side profiles).

The first attempt at designing a night fighter was the conversion of the Sopwith 1 1/2 'Strutter'. However, the handling and poor characteristics of that design, caused the pilot's of No.78 Squadron to refer to it as comical. Hence it became the nickname for the more successful Sopwith Camel based design, Mike

Hi all, As The Salmson 2-A2 model will be finished in the next week, my mind turns to what model is next on the bench. I have yet to build the many models in my stash, from such as Wingnut Wings, Copper State Models and the new releases from Lukgraph. But I've fancied the idea of building the Sopwith 'Comic' night fighter conversion of the Camel. However, there is no 1:32nd scale model of this aircraft. So I've decided to use one of the Wingnut Wings Camel kits I have and attempt converting it to a 'Comic'. The first attempt at converting an existing aircraft to a night fighter was carried out on the Sopwith 1 1/2 'Strutters.' However when the aircraft were first used by No.78 Squadron, the poor performance and lack of fire power showed. The pilot's referred to the aircraft as a night fighter as being comical. Even though the Camel conversion proved more successful, the nickname stuck. The design of the ‘Comic’ version of the Sopwith Camel involved replacing the standard twin Vickers machine guns on the fuselage to Lewis machine guns, located on the upper wing. This was due to muzzle flash from the fuselage guns temporarily blinding the pilot when night flying. Lewis machine guns mounted over the upper wing negated this. Therefore, the forward fuselage Vickers machine guns and their famous ’hump’ were removed. The forward decking 'hump' was eliminated and a lowered and rounded decking was extended from the cowling to the new cockpit position. The new armament consisted of a pair of Lewis machine guns, which were fitted above the centre section of the upper wing and on ‘Foster’ type mounting. This enabled the machine guns to be lowered for re-loading and removed the chances of muzzle flash affecting the pilot's sight. Some ‘Comics’ had one of the Lewis guns, usually the starboard one, fixed to fire upward at 45 degrees. Due to the location of the Lewis machine guns, the cockpit had to be moved rearwards by one bay, to allow the pilot to reach the weapons. This modification required that the main pressure and gravity fuel tanks, which were behind the original cockpit, being removed and replaced by a smaller capacity fuel tank of 18 gallons. This was the type fitted to the BE2e aircraft was fitted forward from the cockpit. This tank held less fuel than the original standard fuel tank of 37 gallons and was located forward from the re-positioned cockpit. The internal forward area of the fuselage, to the rear of the fuselage firewall, had the engine oil tank, then the main fuel tank and a smaller auxiliary tank, all located behind the instrument panel. The conversion improved the aircraft's performance and the VI Brigade regarded it as the best of its night fighters. No.44 Squadron (HD) was formed on the 24th of July, 1917 at Hainault Farm as Home Defence squadron for the London area. This particular aircraft, Srial No.B2402, was flown by Capt. George Henry Hackwill, a former FE2b pilot with No.22 Sqn with two victories to his credit. After time as a flight instructor he was assigned to No.44 (HD) Squadron as a flight commander. On the night of 28th-29th of January 1918, Capt. Hackwill, flying ‘Comic’ B2402 and with Lt. Charles Chaplin Banks flying B3827, shot down Gotha GV, Serial No.938/16 at Wickford in Essex. Hackwill, who was from Langtree in Devon, later flew more conventional Sopwith Camels in France as a flight leader in No.54 Squadron. There he raised his victory count nine and received the Military Cross. Mike

Hi all, The four figures are now done. These figures are from 'Copper State Models', although two were German ground crew figures. I modified one of those heavily as he will be stood in the observers cockpit. The heads were replaced on both by changing French heads around and using one head from 'Hornet Models'. The figures were painted using a combination of 'Tamiya' and 'AK Interactive' acrylics. The model is complete now, apart from the display case and a replacement propeller front hub (wrong type fitted). Once again, many thanks for your support and encouragement throughout this build. I will post completed photographs in a week or so, Mike

Hi all, The observers twin Lewis machine guns assembly is now done. I replaced the kit supplied weapons with 'GasPatch' weapons. This required modifying the kit supplied gun mounting and adding both the cross bracing between the gun handles and the spreader bar between the breach blocks. The gun mount spindle is 0.4 mm diameter tube located through holes drilled in the gun mounting lugs. The cross bracing is 'EZ' line (heavy) routed through 0.3 mm diameter holes drilled diagonally the the ends of the handles. The twin bungee lift cords around the gun support tube are also 'EZ' line routed through 0.4 mm diameter holes drilled through both sides of the tube pivots at the base ring. Just the two windscreens to go and the model itself is complete. Then it's onto the figures, Mike

Hi all, The aileron control cables have been added. The mono-filament used is 0.08 mm diameter and is left clear. Although the structural rigging was painted blue, the control cables were left unpainted. I assume this was due to the cables being regularly adjusted and maintained. Now onto the observers weapons, Mike

Hi all, I've now added the pilot's Vickers machine gu ('GasPatch replacement), gun sight, ring site, mirror and coolant header tank. Also the wind driven pump/generator, with pipe from 0.4 mm diameter black tube from 'MFH'. Just the ailerons and control cables wind screens and observers weapons to add, then it's onto the figures, Mike

Hi all, I've added the vent pipe from the fuel tank, using 0.4 mm diameter black tube from 'MFH'. Also the four wireless wires, made from annealed and twisted 0.2 mm diameter copper wire. Now onto the front end parts, Mike

Hi all, At last the rigging is complete. I've added the side bracing wires from the fuselage to the underside of the upper wing. Also the upper and lower drag wires from the engine bearer frame to the underside of the upper wing and leading edge of the lower wings. The flying, landing and fin bracing wire infills have also been painted with the same colour as the undersides of the wings and fuselage. I chose CDL as it's difficult to know if these infills were CDL or blue (as for the rigging wires. My assumption is that blue would has stood out too much against the camouflage surfaces, so I opted for CDL. So now it's onto the four wireless wires from the cabane struts to the underside of the upper wing. Also the fuel tank vent pipe, Mike

Hi all, I've fitted the linen wrapped infills between the pairs of flying, landing and fin bracing wires. I tried my previous methods of using baking parchment paper and 0.2 mm thick plastic card strips. However, the length of these pairs of wires are long and they flexed too much. Therefore, I cut strips of 'Aviattic' CDL decal to 1.75 width of each pair of wires. The water I used to release the decals was cold, as this tends to release the decal in a more rigid state than warm water would. That made it easier to position the decal strips onto the wires. The decals were laid centrally onto the top sides of the wires and left to allow the residual decal adhesive to grip to the wires. I then applied 'DACO Products' strong setting solution across the top of the decal strip. As the decal started to soften, I teased the edges under the wires to fully wrap them with the decal. Not easy but I think it should look OK once I've painted the decals. This is necessary as the decal is thin and the blue rigging wires shown through. Then it's onto finishing the rigging (drag and side wires), Mike

Yes there is very little, if any colour change to the base coat as those decals are clear. Your problem could be that the edges of the 'Aviattic' decals are overlapped slightly. If so, the effect is to double the decal thickness and that will cause that area of overlap to darken. Mike

Hi all, The tail unit is done. That includes the rudder and elevator control cables, the twin bracing wires for the fin and the fin and tail plane support struts. These twin wires, like the flying and landing wires, will need infills and wrapping. Mike

Hi all, The twin flying and landing wires are now fitted, as are the incidence wires between the interplane struts.. I still have the two drag wires and two side bracing wires (each side of the aircraft) to fit. Now the 32 separate infill strips between the flying and land wires to do, Mike

Hi Rob, I think these linen weave effect decals from 'Aviattic' would suit any aircraft of mainly one colour, such as the Eindeckers and the Taube. The only disadvantage is the number of sheets you'd require. This Salmson took three sheets, and they're not cheap. Also you'll need to cut out the various decals from the sheets, as they are supplied as A4 sheets and not cookie cut for particular models., Mike

Hi all, The upper wing fitted, Mike

Hi Rob, Yes more or less. I apply the kit decals over the linen decals, as in real life these would have been painted on, so covering any visible linen weave. The linen weave effect decal sheets are transparent other than the printed linen effect. Whatever paint colours are under the decal will shown through. I find these decals are best for adding linen effect over painted surfaces. Prime then paint the camouflage. Then clear gloss coat. Apply the 'Aviattic' transparent linen weave effect decals over the relevant surfaces. Then apply the kit decals. A sealing clear semi-matte coat and once dry, apply weathering. Finally a light clear semi-matte coat to seal it all. Mike

Hi all, The flight controls are now pre-rigged. The control horns for the ailerons, rudder and elevator. Now it's on to pre-rigging the fin/tail plane twin bracing wires, Mike

Hi all, The underside of the upper wing is now pre-rigged. This covers the twin flying and landing wires, twin cabane bracing wires, drag wires and interplane incidence wires. The turnbuckles are fixed on the lines, but the anchor point loops are left loose for final fitting once the wing is fitted. Now it's on to pre-rigging the aileron, elevator and rudder control horns. Also the twin bracing wires for the fin bracing, Mike

Hi All, The twin bracing wires between the front and rear cabane struts are pre-rigged. Also the win wires between the rear cabane struts. The turnbuckles are fitted on the ends of the lines, but the lines are left loose at the anchor points. This should make it easier to final rig these lines once the upper wing is fitted, Mike

Hi all, Last update for 2021. Landing gear fitted. 'GasPatch' 1:48th scale turnbuckles with 0.12 blue coloured mono-filament and 0.4 - 0.5 mm diameter brass tube. Tubes and barrels of turnbuckles painted with 'Tamiya' Medium Blue (XF18). Mike

Hi all, Just a few updates. The wheels have 'Aviattic' linen weave effect decal applied. The landing gear is painted ready to assemble. The two Lewis and single Vickers machine guns are prepared for fitting. The 'Proper Plane' laminated wood propeller has got it decals and semi-matte clear coat. All of these have yet to be weathered etc, Mike

Hi all, I've been fighting off a cold and cough (not Covid) for the past few weeks, so I've not posted updates. However, here's and update for the Salmson. I've used a combination of 'Tamiya' acrylic and 'Hataka' lacquer paints for the external camouflage scheme. This was all airbrushed with 'Alclad' Aqua Gloss 600 for applying the decals. I cut templates to create the various shapes required then transferred them onto the 'Aviattic’ Linen Weave effect (ATT32236) decal sheets. These were applied after which the kit decals were added. Everything was given a coat of 'Alclad' Light Sheen (ALC311) lacquer as the base for applying weathering, which I'll be applying next, Mike

Hi all, Here's my completed model of Avro Vulcan B.Mk.2, Serial No:XM573 of No.44 (Rhodesia) Squadron. The squadron was reformed in 1960 at Royal Air Force Waddington in Lincolnshire, UK, initially operating the Vulcan B Mk.1 from August 1960 then converting in January 1961 to the Vulcan B Mk.1a. The Vulcan's were operated as high-altitude bombers as part of the UK's strategic nuclear deterrent. In 1964,and due to the use of Soviet Surface to Air Missiles (SAMs), the Vulcan became vulnerable and their role was changed to low level penetration bombing. In 1968 the squadron was equipped with eight of the B Mk.2 versions, which carried the WE177 'laydown' bombs. In 1969 the Royal Navy took over the UK's role for nuclear deterrent and the Vulcan force was assigned to SACEUR, for the support of land forces. In this role conventional weapons would have been used with the option to convert to nuclear weapons should the situation on the ground escalate. The squadron served in this role until 1982, when their Vulcans were involved flying combat missions during the Falklands War. The squadron was eventually disbanded in December 1982. The model is the new release in 1:72nd scale by Airfix. The decal markings are partly from the 'Kits World' (KW172214) set. Paints used were primarily 'Tamiya' acrylic: Camouflage - RAF Medium Sea Grey (XF83) and RAF Dark Green (XF81). Anti-flash white - White (XF2) with added Buff (XF57). 'Flory' Dark Dirt wash for panel line wash and 'Alclad' Light Sheen (ALC-311) used for final sealing. Display base: 18mm thick MDF with routed profile edges and 8mm diameter holes for the model support rods. Sealed and painted matte-black with felt pads on the underside. 8mm diameter acrylic rod heat bent as support rods into the modified internal structure of the Vulcan model. Top surface is 2mm thick black Perspex, bored through to accept the ten squadron badges, the two acrylic support rods and black edge screws. Ten 25mm diameter lapel badges, representing the Vulcan squadrons, with the rear face clamping pins removed and filed flat. A woven No.44 Squadron patch. A clear acrylic cover fits over the display as protection against dust or damage. Please excuse the quality of the photographs - not that great. Mike

Hi all, For those interested in the Vulcan, a quick update. To replace the jet pipes with the correct, longer versions. It's strange how 'Airfix' provide these parts, but there's no mention of them in the assembly instructions. All other model variations are shown, but only the shorter jet pipes are shown? Anyway, as the shorter jet pipes were already fitted and part of the wing structure, I chose not to try cutting them out and replacing the entire assemblies. Instead, I built the outer casings of the longer jet pipes, but without the inner jet pipes (internal jet pipes were already fitted). I then separated the four pipes and marked, then cut away the casing leaving 7 mm from the rear edges. These were then cemented onto the rear of the existing casings. This means the acrylic rods used to support the model from inside the two inner engines still works. I've yet to add the exterior plates around the front of each casing, which I'll do using thin plastic card. Then it a case of painting them. As for the re-positioning of the left roundel - I've received a replacement set of decals. The previous roundel has been sanded off, so I just need to mask and paint that camouflaged area and weather it to match the surrounding area. Then I can apply the roundel, in the correct position this time then final clear coat, Mike