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I am pretty busy the last two months we are now in full production ad my work Maverick valves My way is to make a stucture so any one can start the machine install the right claws/material and press start. For that hehe.. it is a bit more work then a normal CNC lathe/mill but I am getting there. Here a youtube link of my work a full product ball for a ball valve only a ligth polis is needed to get the ball ready to install. Have Fun johan Bos

Hi Erik I try this in the weekend post them later. Have Fun johan Bos

Done have Fun johan bos

finally done! Best looking of all Tomcats I have built The Zacto Intakes make it look so much better. Because of my work and projects and always the last little things keep a build from the finish line. Here are the photos. more....

hi done Have fun johan bos

I hope to upload more tomorrow about mottling how I apply it I have the Montex mask so it is going to be fun this weekend. Have Fun Johan Bos

Thx Wayne I made a mistake because Revell mix up the colors on the instructions I think so that needed to be fixed haha and spending hours looking for photo's on the internet. I going to video the mottling and the touch up. johan bos

Thank you great to see people liked it. It is a bit of a struggle to get the camera close and airbrushing at the same time. Now this update I am going to the top side and forgot to write the paint code the RLM 74 is Vallejo model air 71055 and RLM 83 is Vallejo model air 71011. Have Fun johan bos

Thx Jeroen Yes finally some time to show how I use it in my model building.

I use 1.1 bar pressure and just distilled water 3 drops to dilution the paint a bit more and the smallest needle. Oh and I tape the trigger no constant open close this way I keep a motion and yes I do miss some times just the spot I wanted to hit but the more you do it the easyer it gets. No big paint build up and running paint so it takes a bit more time but more relax and detail as a bonus. The model base I try to sell hehe I hope this way people going to see the benefits very bussy getting it of the ground. http://forum.largescalemodeller.com/topic/3003-my-project/ johan bos

Hi I promised some years ago that I post a little video on how I airbrush my models. That little took a bit of time and I will make it a bit bigger. There the Link took me a day to get better with the Video Editor but I hope to get better with that. I don't talk that easy to a Glass Eye that steals your Soul. so maybe later I come more a custom to that I am used to educate people how to use cnc Lathes/milling. Johan Bos change the video to my other youtube account

Hi it took some time very busy times still here are some test shots to see what I forgot the engine are loose they can be exchange if the PE come out. The zacto intakes are fantastic injoy hope to finish everything later this week. Have Fun johan bos

I took a look at what people posted and think this 3 I like. 1. Caproni Ca.3 2. Gotha GLVii 3. Balloon Caquot or Drachen

Fantastic the one I need to have

Hi people, Jeroen took it to Telford so it is to see in real live dont know the stand there forgot to ask hehe. The Yellow parts are stainless steel and the Red Aluminum the U-profile is Aluminum getting a length of 50.MM The photo shows not all the parts left and right side are different setup. and one tail support you get two so possible to suport the fuselage with foam board. Now I dont know if there is a real market for it and making a investment taking a financial risk is not on my list having a good stable job. So my idea is you can sign in for the Bos model base you get the a parts list and more detail on the set in a e-mail. The e-mail adres is: bosmodelbase@hotmail.com Now I need at least 50 buyers for it to make this happen there is a signing up period of 1 month I keep you all posted on that with e-mail. If I reach the goal you get a Paypal adres to pay safe for you and for me. I am aware that there will be people that hate paypal but for me it is the safest way. I know signing in and paying are two different things so I hope people keep that in mind. The price of the model base is $ 90,90 or € 72,00 without tax. the Bosmodel base is light so shipping cost will not be that high you get info on that in your e-mail The Magnetic stand I dont sell they are heavy and if you look on the internet there are some great offers that I can not make just think about the cost of sending the heavy stand around the world. The Pen 8.mm is a size that fits all to connect to Magnetic stand I use a Noga DG61003 (134 euro ) and it is the best brand. (expensive) I did bought a cheap chinees one for 25 euro to test if my idea realy works and it works but it isn't that strong maybe a size bigger will. For a question or signing up for it please use this e-mail adres bosmodelbase@Hotmail.com

Hi yes I send with the set little soft pads the stick to any surface on the frame I have on the wingstop a hole whit thread for a nylon screw that you can model in any way you like and stick a soft pad on it. On the messing rod that you can bend in any form you can use isolation sock that shrinks by head like a lighter. The Tomcat is held in place by foam board that is soft just a little tape and it stays in place. Have fun Johan Bos Almost forgot for the big models like the B17 you get the 2 mm thick stainless steel spar and wing spar that can handel the wide wing root so all in the same set as you notice I left the flaps off of the p61 because of this wide wing. It handels the weight easely but for customers I think a bit more rigid clamping will give some confidence in the Model base.

Hi now made the video did one model the studio is a bit small to move the big P61 around still can move like the BF. Notice the extra support for the wingnut model top wing the not realy needed for the wingnut model it is a option and needed to change the length of the leg to support the top wing. And the video Have fun Johan Bos

Hi here is the model base I did use a Revell model sprayed a base of silver on it for some chipping later. Today I took a peace of metal from work so I can show you more how far it will reaches still I build and use it with out it even on the P61 and Tomcat. the other part I show on a Youtube video how it moves and installed for a WW1 model. Because this is a short model is a short spin is needed the model rest on nylon screw they can be adjust in hight and get a soft pad they stick on the screw head. The using a messing rod to hold the model in place I can shake the model in the stand it will not move. Moving the model now is so easy just to get that angle you can airbrush more relax. Tomorrow my video hehe Have fun johan bos

Hi Mike Yes Friday I have the complete set ready now I use my plastic connectors and want to show it how it will be when aluminum parts are used. Johan Bos

Hi Matt well strange as it sound from some one that works all day with metal I not yet took a piece of metal home to use as a good counter weight, the magnetic stand it self is heavy to keep it in place. The arm I mostly bend so that it keeps it under it self and the connection point you can move that over the aluminum spin were you want. And like the wing nut wings kit they are so light they can swing in any way you want. Here I used my cheap chinees arm 25 euro standing on cardboard. Bristol the very long Thud And the revell junker 88 Johan bos

Hi Matt Well working on my models I got frustrated that I needed a third hand to hold the model in the right angle like glue a part on a side wall of the model and it keeps dropping before the glue hardens. And first made a tool of carton box and it was ok still I was only able in some angles to hold the model. Now I was not happy that it was not that great so when I was at my job I use the magnetic stand to hold a clock to measure if it runs straight and many more possible things till I notice how strong they really can be holding parts From the Brand Noga. Long story short I have designed a frame that can move over a spin of aluminum so length is no problem and support anything you like how you like it with some basic parts were you can bolt it on to. so de model drops on it and move in any angle you like it to assemble rigging painting weather it if you have just one usable hand for the fine work it gives you a great solution get a little box to let your hands rest on so no more trembling so drinking coffee is a option haha. Now I have the 4 test cuts and the magnetic stands keeping all my models I am now working on cats brush angainst them I need to move them around and it is super relax only dust nothing is doing them harm. And now because of the machine I am working with I am able to going to produce them for the price of a HK model B25. you get two sets and a magnetic stand later on that more I did buy a cheap (25 euro) magnetic stand from a chinese Brand and after I used a block of tree resin the violinist use for the bow to make it main link rough it perform good on the lighter models not the heavy Trump Tomcat with zacto resin that one I use the Noga stand (140 euro). I know it is serious money still if you ever try it you will ask your self how did I ever work with out it. it is made of stainless steel and aluminum so keeping it clean is easy. Now next week on the end of it I going to look for websites to review my stand and let hope it get a good review. Check my builds P61 and the Tomcat with Zacto airintakes sorry my education was that of looking out of the window so my english writing is not that good. have Fun johan bos

Hello it is some time ago that I was really active was on the forum my builds are waiting for paint. And the Tomcat needs to be finished this weekend I get to it. Now my project the model standard get a real boost I am now working with the Okuma Multus B400II and programend the parts. My boss let me work with it after work programming self I do when the machine is running they takes up to 4 hours a peace so time to do other stuff and I do learn a lot from it. Here a single part later on I will make 4 from one piece of Aluminum. Here the Okuma Multus B400II in action Have fun Johan bos

Fantastic Ralph Your work gives me much inspiration to try harder on my next model I build. Johan

Well I was planning to do some more work on the Tomcat finishing the build but I was still not happy with the gap between the engine and wing missing the fire wall so I was planning to use the cnc lathe at my work to cut it from PVC just so it looks closed. Now when I was closing up my boxes for this build keep al my parts in there till I need them I see the closed flap option ring and they are thick enough to make a reasonable radius to look more like the real one. Dry fit they stick out much more then normally the engine mount is smaller the kit engine mount is to big to even get the exhaust over it. Some one on the forum was pointing this out (forgot the name) and I think Hobby Boss got stuck at this point also and just leave it out of the kit haha Well this for me is a good solution only need to at panel lines. Time to watche the finish of Le Mans 24 Have fun Johan bos

Hi thank you for the compliments I wanted to show you the under side I made the cooling ducts they were very simple OOB so I cut back all of the kit part only a Thin rib was left where I glued the new evergreen pieces on the small gap in the middle I will glue later after the glue is fully cured. I did not open them fully because then I need to paint a bit more under there. I did see on the Eduard set the PE frame for the air duct ver big so made my own from a tea bag very fine maybe a bit too fine hehe. Used a felt pen to darken the background of it so less worries later. Used epoxy filler and tape to fill the seams they were a bit big but most of it is very thin and it flows beautiful almost flush so little sanding needed. Oh and I made to round cups for the lamps heating up evergreen sheet and pull it over a pensel end I have to spare ones the are safe in the wing hehe push them true after they were almost done grrr. Now I am decaling the Tomcat so I hope to start finishing the cockpit and details in it later this week want to start painting this beast.