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Tamiya 1/35 M60A1 Battle Tank with Reactive Armor


RalphSarc
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M60A1 Battle Tank with Reactive Armor

Scale 1/35

Kit Number 35157

 

The design for the venerable M60 tank series dates back to the mid 1950's, and had been a mainstay in the U.S. armed forces since then. In order to survive the increasing demands of battlefield operations, it has undergone numerous upgrades and improvement throughout the past 30 years. First produced in the Warren Army tank plant, Detroit, Michigan, U.S.A. in October 1963, the type M60A1 variant has been acknowledged one of the masterpieces in U.S. armor history. Major improvements found in the A1 version was the M68 105mm main gun, which was mounted in a sleek wedge-shaped monobloc-cast turret. The U.S. Marines, who currently operate he M60A1 tank, have opted not to upgrade it to the A3 version because of plans to employ the M1A1 Abrams main battle tank. However, they did install the state-of-the-art reactive armor array on their M60's for improved survivability against shaped-charge missiles and shells, calling the tank an M60A1 + (plus). The externally mounted reactive armor (ERA) used on the M60A1 + tanks is a bolt-on kit, that is spaced away from the main armor, adding additional dead air space for increased protection. Combined with the RISE (Reliability Improved Selected Equipment) program, including the improved stabilized gun, passive searchlight, a new air cleaner, etc., the M60A1 + is highly capable of remaining in the front line operation as proved during the latest Persian Gulf Conflict.

 

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Eh, parts count isn't that bad! Try Trumpeter's T-80BV - 1000+ parts! Granted, at least 400 of them are track, but still...

 

Honestly I haven't built an M60 since I was a kid, back when I thought it was perfectly acceptable to just use a piece of scotch tape as the searchlight cover, so no real subject-specific tips. But, with reactive armor blocks, I find it useful to lay some paint before they go down so you aren't fighting to get underneath them. Because getting under/behind this was a PAIN!

 

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 Great minds think alike concerning painting and installing the reactive armor, lol!!!

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Get some pe mesh to replace that vinyl crap in the kit. Used it on my IDF M60 and it fought me all the way.

 Great idea Paul. I have several types of brass mesh I've been using for stowage rack liners, intake grills etc. Looks much better than the kits black mesh!

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Completed step 1. The installation of parts B1 and B2 were a bit challenging. The instruction suggest using tape to hold the two hull side sections in place which is fine however the angle seems to be slightly mismatched so filled the small cap with my homemade styrene glue!!

 

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Beginning the suspension in Step 2.

 

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Well powered through steps 3/5 this evening with no problems. Was careful to align all the suspension rods at the correct angle so the road wheels will sit straight and flat.
Installed the rear hull panel and the main drive sprockets.

 

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Also did a small amount of filler and seam work on the hull side pieces. Wasn't happy with the fit and since the M60A1 doesn't have side armor that seam will show!

 

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Yay we graduated from the lower hull assemble to the upper hull for now. Starting step 6!!!

 

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Not that I don't like suspension and road wheel work but glad to be on the upper hull!!!

 

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Sorry been really busy with hospital appts with Beth. Her Doctor's have changed her chemo drugs and it has really kicked her butt. She's lost her hair again :-(

Oh well here's a few update shots!!

 

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Scratch built tow cables.

 

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Used Vallejo Chipping Solution to chip the reactive armor and the hull. First time and it's great stuff!

 

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Stowage!

 

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