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  1. I'm most intrigued how you are going to build the engine. My metalwork is not good enough to build an acceptable engine and by far not good enough to make it work. I tend to do the engine on a 3D printer, but that said I never did that before too...... We're both in for a lengthy build full of challenges Remco
  2. It's like looking at the real thing Remco
  3. Fabulous work. Until I saw the last pic with the pin, then my jaw dropped Remco
  4. Ok, so this is where I'm working on for the past 5 years. I added just a few pictures of the 1000 I made. If you click one of the pictures it will take you to the photo bucket album with more pictures from this build. All parts are hand made from boxwood, holly, brass or copper. Remco
  5. WIP on this very nice kit. I added some details from Sovereign 2000. The biggest issue with the kit is that most of the details are so small you really need to handle it very delicately in order not to break or bend anything. Current status, base coat of german gray added, filters added with different colors of oil paint (red, blue, white, brown) and washes added. I also got some nice figures to make a small diorama Remco
  6. It's a joy to watch you build. A few tips on blackening agents, I've used Blacken-It and Caisey's Brass Black. With the latter I have better results. Make sure all the parts are thoroughly degreased by rinsing them an hour in vinegar or an other degreasing solution and clean them with plenty of water. Add a few drops of the blackening agent in distilled water and drop the parts in it. The more you dilute the solution the slower the reaction, but the better the blackened layer will stick to the part. Blacken-It wil give a black/dark brown finish, Caisey's a very dark steel finish. For copper I use Liver of sulphur. Very off topic but this is the result using Casey's: Ships stove Remco
  7. This is insanely good, like to work tiny bits but this is way beyond my capabilities. Remco
  8. What a great review to accompany such a fine kit Remco
  9. Hi Peter, How did you make the brass rivets on the back of the seat? Remco
  10. Copper and brass are a bit stiff but not to much to bend and shape it. If you anneal them they become very soft but not as soft as lead so they still keep their shape quite easily. Remco
  11. So a 'few' hours of work later... (cutting tubes, bending eyebolts, silver soldering and blackening) 110 turnbuckles are ready. I did refine the shape a bit by flattening the ring of the eyebolt after soldering it, I think it makes the shape match a real turnbuckle better than with the round eyebolts I showed in one of the previous pictures. Remco
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