sandbagger

Hi Rob, Yes the Fokker E.V/D.VIII builds into a nice kit. I built it, but it was before 'Aviattic' released some of their after market parts and photo-etch set. I did use their cookie cut decals though, as well as theirs and others other after market parts. I also replaced all of the struts and cockpit framing with brass versions. If you go to my site, on Gallery 1, there's the downloadable PDF build log, Mike

Hi all, The fuselage halves had two pre-moulded resin location pegs only and when the fuselage halves were located together, the pegs did not align correctly. Also, as noted by 'PrzemoL' during his build of the Sopwith 'Baby, once the cockpit if fitted and the fuselage closed up, the fuselage seam will be seen from inside the cockpit. Therefore I decided to sand away the resin location pegs and drill three 0.9 mm holes into one fuselage half, then fitted 0.8 mm brass location rods. To align the rest of the fuselage halves I added short strips of 0.8 mm thick plastic card to the fuselage half, in positions that would not interfere with the cockpit fit. Finally to hide the fuselage seam and to add to fuselage halves alignment, I cut and profiled a single piece of 0.8 mm thick plastic card, which was secured to the cockpit floor area of the fuselage half. The result is a much better alignment of the fuselage halves wih the seam below the cockpit hidden, Mike

Hi all, The pilot operated the ailerons on the wings by turning the pilot’s wheel on the control column. The typical aileron control from a pilot’s wheel was effected by cables. The control column would be fitted with two cable pulleys, one from the wheel and located on the top of the control column and a second pulley located at the bottom of the control column. The aileron control cable run was routed around the top pulley then down to the bottom pulley, where the cable run was crossed. From the bottom pulley the cables were routed out of the cockpit and through the lower wings to their respective ailerons. Unfortunately these pulleys are not supplied in the model kit, so had to be made. Each pulley is a 2.5 mm diameter disc, cut from 0.5 mm thick plastic card, and sandwiched between two 3.5 mm diameter discs. These represent the basic 'grooved' pulleys, around which the aileron control cable run will be routed, Mike

Hi Rob, Yes I'd say buying the engines separately would be a good move. Probably the best 3D prints I've come across thus far. You do get 12 cylinders and intake manifolds, even though the engine only requires 9 of each. Mike

Hi all, I've been sorting out certain anomalies with the primary parts of the model. The details will be covered in the PDF build log, but as a heads up: The resin locating pegs for the fuselage halves cause the assembly to be misaligned, as do those to locate the wings to the fuselage and upper wing centre section. These pegs were removed and replaced with 0.8 mm diameter brass rod, which with the kit original steel pins provide a better joint and alignment. Even so I found that with the wing leading edges aligned, the trailing edges were not. It seems the wing chords are slightly less than their mating faces. Therefore some sanding of the trailing edges of the upper wing centre section and lower wing roots was required to align correctly to the wing sections. Resin surface irregularities, such as blow holes, chips, edge delaminations and joint seams, needed to be either filled and/or sanded. The two fuselage halves have pre-moulded external linen stitching, which is not very realistic. Also the stitching at the sides of the cockpit was not present on the aircraft. In addition, the removable rear fuselage was attached to the forward fuselage at a joint to the rear of the cockpit. This joint has been moulded on the fuselage halves as a thick ridge, but in reality did not look like this (see the following photograph). The joint at the fuselage sides was covered with a strip. These details were scraped and sanded away, in preparation for being replaced with photo-etch (‘Eduard’ WW1 Stitching (EDP32228). Mike

Hi all, The 3D printed Le Rhone 9J engine is complete. Painted with 'Alclad' Steel lacquer and weathered using by sponging 'Tamiya' Weathering Master Burnt Blue, Gunmetal and Silver. Complete engine washed with 'AK Interactive' Kerosene, thinned with White Spirit. Spark plug leads twisted from 0.125 mm diameter copper wire. Mike

Thanks Rob - Kind words indeed. You should be able to build either the earlier D.III or the kit intended D.IV - it'll be nice to see how it would turn out, Mike

Hi all, I'm waiting for the propeller to arrive to complete my Siemens-Schuckert D.III model. Therefore I'm making a start on the 1:32nd scale resin model of the Ansaldo 'Baby' by 'Lukgraph'. I'll be modelling the first 'Baby' built (Ser No: So 5005) by the SA Aeronautica Gio Ansaldo of Turin. This aircraft was fitted with a Le Rhöne 9J rotary engine (120hp) with a circular engine cowl. I've made a start on the 3D printed engine, which I must say is the best finish I've seen thus far from a model company. The surface shows very little, if any, of the layer striations seen on some 3D printed model parts. Cutting the parts from their support trees is a bit tricky and because the material is quite hard, removing the tree stubs on such small parts is difficult. Mike

Hi all, All I need to complete this model now is the wood laminate propeller from 'ProperPlane', which is on it's way. This propeller profile is slightly different to the kit propeller, which it seems is not quite correct. As such I'll probably need to re-profile the 'Loon Models' resin spinner I've used, as it is made to fit the kit spinner. I'll post up photos of the completed model once its complete. I'd like to thank everyone for their encouragement and comments. Mike

Hi all, The figures, which the ‘Aviattic’ “GötterdÄmmerung” pilot and airman set (ATTRES 024). All painted with 'Tamiya' acrylics with metal fitting using 'Mr. Colour' enamels. The ladder was base coated with 'AK Interactive' Wood wash (AK 263) 'Tamiya' Weathering Master sets A, D and E used for dirt/stains. Just awaiting the propeller from Alex at 'ProperPlane' and the display case (due tomorrow, Mike PS: Is it just me but after I'd finished I thought 'the pilot reminds me of someone'.

Hi all, Apart from the propeller, which Alex at 'ProperPlane' is attempting to make, the model is complete. The rudder is fitted. The windscreen in the kit is just a thin acetate outline, which is not very realistic, so I modified a 'spare' windscreen. The aileron control rod assemblies, which I modified earlier, were fitted into the cut-outs I made in the upper wing. Finally the bracing wire at each side of the engine cowl was held in a metal retainer, which I made from spare photo-etch harness buckles. Until the propeller is fitted I'll carry on painting the two figures and ladder, Mike

Hi all, The full rigging has been completed now for the flying, landing wires and the various cross bracing wires. The elevator has been fitted and its four control lines installed. Remaining jobs to complete are the aileron control rods in the upper wing, engine cowl retaining plates bracing wires), propeller and its spinner and finally the windscreen. After that it will be completing the figures and display case/base, Mike

Hi all, The pre-rigging was first added for the cross bracing, flying and landing wires. Mono-filament 0.12 mm diameter and 0.5 mm diameter tube. 'Gaspatch' metal 1?48th scale turnbuckles and anchors. Underside of the upper wing, top surface of the lower wings, engine cowl and the tension frame for the cross bracing wires of the rear cabane struts. Then the upper wing was fitted - always a tricky time of the build. Then next step is to fit the rudder and elevator then complete the full rigging, Mike

Hi all, The wash has been removed to leave a weathered coat, then sealed with 'Alclad' Light Sheen (ALC-311) lacquer. Also the elevator has been rigged (ailerons and rudder have no external control lines), Mike

Hi all, The weathering wash of 'Flory Models' Dark Dirt fine clay wash has been applied. This now needs to be damp wiped/brushed to leave the desired weathering, Mike

Hi all, The undercarriage is now fitted. The top of each strut were drilled and rod pinned to fit into holes drilled into the fuselage. The axle, which was mould rectangular, was re-profiled and the four retaining straps added using lead wire. Cross bracing using 'Gaspatch' metal turnbuckles and anchors with 0.5 mm diameter tube and 0.12 mm diameter mono-filament. The steel core bungee suspension cords were represented by 'EZ' Heavy line (White), wrapped and painted with thinned 'Tamiya' Buff (XF57). Mike

Hi all, Moving along slowly. The engine and cowl have been fitted with an 'RB Productions' 9/32nd flat rigging wire used to represent the cowl retaining strap. Photo-etch quarter turn fasteners have been added to the main panels and wingnut fasteners to the two side and one underside access panels. Both machine guns are on as well as the fuel tank contents gauge. Very slight paint weathering was applied (sponged) and a light sheen sealing coat airbrushed to act as the base for dirt weathering. Before that I need to fit and rig the undercarriage assembly so as to prevent damaging the PE fasteners on the underside access panel on the fuselage. Mike

Hi all, I don't think I've spent as much time cutting and applying decals to any model, as I have on this one. The upper wing/ailerons are 45 degree 5 colour lozenge ('Aviattic' ATT32019 underside, ATT32018 top surface). The lower wings/ailerons and elevator are standard 5 colour lozenge ('Aviattic' ATT32075 underside, ATT32013 top surface). All rib and edging tapes were cut from 'Aviattic' ATT32073. National markings and pilots personal markings were from the ‘Pheon’ (32023) Siemens Schuckert D.III decal sheet. I had the problem of repairing the model after I dropped it during final preparation for applying the decals. I managed to catch it between my legs, but in the process clamped the wing tips which transformed the D.III into more of a Vought Corsair!! I had to break off the upturned lower wings, clean up, re-pack, re-drill and re-pin then reassemble. All in all it didn't turn out too bad. The surfaces are gloss sealed so as not to damage the applied decals. The final finish and weathering will be done later in the build. Mike

Hi all, I've applied the linen effect lozenge decals from 'Aviattic' to both wings, ailerons and the elevator. Also added 1.0 mm wide strips of 5 colour lozenge to represent the rib tapes and edging. The wing outer 'V' struts were tubular steel covered with a Spruce wood fairing. The fairings were then covered with the lozenge linen or in some cases, the lozenge pattern was hand painted. I've used the same 'Aviattic' lozenge decal that used for the rib tapes. Mike

Hi all, The base colours of red (engine cowl, propeller spinner and forward fuselage) and blue (fuselage and tail unit) have been applied (both darkened slightly). The masks were used to create the fuselage and rudder 'over painted markings, which were then airbrush over to give the impression of being over painted. The fuselage markings will be partially covered by the pilot's personal markings and a decal will be used for the rudder cross. The fuselage markings are strange looking but based of the photograph I posted earlier (evidence of the confusion the orders of March/May 1918 caused). I've 'hair sprayed' an under coat before applying the red, as those areas have metal surfaces that I want to chip slightly. The overall semi-sheen finish and weathering will be applied once the wing decals have been applied. Mike

Hi all, The fuselage of this aircraft was coloured blue and was applied over what were the original National markings (fuselage and rudder). However, the markings were still visible under the applied blue colour and therefore need to be represented on the model. The colour profile of this aircraft and others from Jasta 15 appear in several books and the profile artist for the one used does state that the over painted markings are speculative and based on previous aircraft flown in Jasta 15. The following photograph, although of poor quality, shows a large white cross with the black cross at its centre on the fuselage. The rudder seems to show a very faded black cross under the white coloured rudder with the later black cross superimposed. The colour profile has the previous rudder marking as the old style ’Cross Pattée’. However, when the photograph is changed to a negative, the marking, although difficult to see, does appear to be more of a standard cross in shape. Between March and May of 1918, the ’Idflieg’ ordered that the National markings be changed, but initially no dimensions were given and confusion at the various Jasta’s led to a wide variation in the shape of the new cross markings. The older ’Cross Pattée’ marking was used earlier in WW1 and I personally doubt that this underlying marking would have been on an aircraft in 1918, especially when you consider that the first production batch of D.III aircraft was placed in March 1918, the same month the ‘Cross Pattée’ was discontinued. Therefore I've chosen to use the later cross shape as the underlying marking on the rudder, rather than the older ’Cross Pattée’. I'm intending to chip the paintwork on the forward metal panels and engine cowl, so I've applied a base coat of 'Alclad' Duraluminium (ALC-102). Then a coat of cheap hairspray, as I can't get on with chipping fluids, which I find tend to bead up. The figures I chose to use are the pilot and airman from the ‘Aviattic’ - “GötterdÄmmerung” pilot and airman (ATTRES 024) Mike

Hi all, The fuselage now closed up, including: Top decking panel Underside louvred panel Engine fire wall Tail plane Fuselage head rest fairing Underside access panel and hinge. Most joint and seams needed filling and sanding. Next it's applying primer to check for surface imperfections then on with the build, Mike

Hi all, The fuselage right side is now fitted and the rudder and elevator control lines rigged. Next step is to fit the pilot's seat harness, including the shoulder straps through the rear firewall slots. Then I can close up the fuselage and fit the seat, Mike

Hi all, The fuselage is ready to be closed up. The kits cockpit was modified by the following: Addition of photo-etch rear bulkhead, fuselage formers, fuel/oil cock control panel and side box containers. Added tube for spent cartridge chute. Added cross bracing to fuselage forward area and cockpit floor (0.4 mm tube - 0.12 mm mono-filament). Added rudder and double elevator control line (0.4 mm tube - 0.08 mm mono-filament). Added instrument decals (not supplied in the kit). Added 0.3 mm lead wiring for magneto starter, starter switch and Tachometer drive, twin gun trigger cables and twin throttles (control column. Replaced kit supplied oil priming pump and oil and fuel cock controls - 0.4 mm tubing. Added 0.4 mm lead wire for oil priming pump pipe. Mike

Hi all, To correct the span of the lower wing: Wing cut through 30 mm from the wing roots. Two holes drilled (0.5 mm diameter) into outer wing sections. Rods (0.5 mm diameter) inserted into holes. Wings pushed together to indent rods into wing centre section (marks for drilling). Two holes drilled (0.5 mm diameter) into centre wing section. Two packs of 6 x 1 mm plastic card cemented together. Two holes drilled through packs to match rods in the wings. Packs fitted onto wing rods. Wing sections and packs aligned then secured together with CA adhesive and liquid cement. Packs filed and sanded to match the wing profiles. Wing strut location holes filled and re-drilled 6 mm further inboard. Mike