sandbagger

Hi all, Most of the clay wash has been removed to leave subtle dirt weathering. 'AK Interactive' Kerosene wash (AK2039) and Engine Oil (AK2019) applied around filler cap and on underside of fuselage, rear of engine cowl.. 'Tamiya' Weather Master Set A (Mud) and Set D (Engine Oil) sponged to the engine cowl, underside of lower wings and fuselage. Now to create the engine cowl retainer band and forward support rings for both machine guns, Mike

I take my hat off to you Phil - taking on a WNW Camel as your first WW1 aircraft build. I see you've managed so far to avoid snapping off any of the fuselage moulded struts, which is something I a quite a few others fell foul of. Regards rigging the tubing I use for control lines is 'Stroft GTM' mono (0.08 mm diameter) routed through 'Albion Alloy's' 0.4 mm diameter (0.2 mm internal). For rigging I use 'Stroft GTM' mono (0.12 mm diameter) routed through tube of 0.5 mm diameter (0.3 mm internal). Roll cutting with a sharp blade is OK but does leave burrs , especially in the bore of the tube and these can be a pain to remove. If you want pre-cut tube of 0.4 or 0.5 mm diameter, equal length and free of burrs, you can order 'turnbuckles' from 'Albion Alloy's' in packs of 100 at £12. They used to have their own 'Model Skills' web site but that seems to have been taken down now. Instead I order through the message function on their Facebook page. https://www.facebook.com/AlbionAlloys Mike

Hi all, I've applied the 'Flory Models' Dark Dirt fine clay wash. Most will be removed to leave the desired weathered look, Mike

Hi all, Apart from the propeller, all of the decals have now been applied. Undersides using ‘Aviattic’ aged varnish CDL (ATT32094) over base colours. Top surfaces 'Aviattic' Linen Weave Effect (ATT32236) over base colours. Individual marking from the ‘SuperScale’ WW1 Nieuport 28C-1 (MS320243) set. Final sealing coat of 'Alclad' Light Sheen (ALC-311) lacquer. Now I'll need apply weathering before adding details, such as the retaining strap for the engine cowl and ring supports for the front of the machine gun cooling jackets. Then it'll be pre-rigging and start the construction, Mike

Hi Kevin, Thanks. If by 'Copper' model you mean 'Copper State Models', then no. It's the 'Roden' kit, Mike

Hi all, I've applied the decals to the wing struts and the rudder from the ‘SuperScale’ WW1 Nieuport 28C-1 (MS320243) set. The pre-moulded lined wrappings around the struts were way to thick. I sanded them away and replaced them with white 1.5 mm wide white stripes from the ‘Xtradecal’ parallel stripes white (XPS2) set. Also applied are the wing decals, which are ‘Aviattic’ aged varnish CDL (ATT32094) linen effect decal undersides and Linen Weave Effect (ATT32236) on top surfaces. Mike

Hi all, Just a quick update. I've painted the camouflage scheme, using 'Tamiya' acrylics thinned with 'Mr. Colour' levelling thinners 400. Most of the colours were mixed to create as near as possible the shades of colours. Airbrushed between 'UHU' white tack 'worms' with additional masking to protect from over spray. Mike

Hi all, I've made a start on the painting phase. The undersides of the wings would have the faint shadows from the leading edge fairings, wing ribs, rear spar and cross bracing wires. The upper surfaces hardly at all as they were brush painted with coloured dopes. I thought this time, I'd try representing these shadows with a slightly different technique. I airbrushed the undersides with 'AK Interactive' white primer, which was required for when I apply the 'Aviattic' clear CDL decals. Then I over sprayed a light coat of 'Tamiya' Smoke (X19). I scanned the internal structure of both with and rescaled the scans to the correct side. Then coloured the structure with contrasting colours and saved them as JPG files. These were uploaded into my 'Cricut' Explore Air 2 crafters cutter and the parts not required were deleted. I then cut the masks using 'Artool' Ultra Mask sheets. These were placed onto the wings with the parts not required removed. A light coat of the white primer was airbrushed and then the masks removed. The bracing wires were drawn on the wings using a pencil. Finally a light, blend coat of the white was airbrushed to blend everything. The surfaces still need to be gloss coated before the CDL decals are applied, Mike

Copper State Models have a good range of Nieuport 17 and 23 models in 1:32nd scale, Mike

Hi all, Just a quick update. The kit supplied wing struts are only located into the wings with a short styrene ‘stubs’. Also the fuselage struts are ‘butt’ joints to the fuselage and have no locating stubs. Therefore I chose to add reinforcing rods to the wings and struts to better locate, align and support the wings. The wing struts will locate into the wings with 0.5mm diameter rods. The fuselage struts will be located with 0.4 mm diameter rod. I've also added anchor points at all of the fuselage and wing rigging points, Mike

Hi all, A few updates done. I've added some photo-etch detail to the fuselage - elevator exit openings, side access panel, top panel edges and the rivet ring on the engine cowl. I've also drilled out the openings in the carburettor air intake and both ends of the fuel 'Baden' type venturi exhauster. Also the basic engine, which I've replaced with a 'Wingnut Wings' Oberursel U.I engine, is finished apart from the ignition leads. The German Oberursel engine was a copy of the Le Rhone 9N engine. One difference was that the Le Rhone engine had twin spark plugs co-located on the side of each each cylinder. The Oberursel had twin sparks plugs, but at 90 degrees to each other. As neither the plugs or in fact the cylinder heads will be seen once the engine cowl is fitted, I've left the plugs as they are. Mike

Hi all, 1:32nd scale 'Special Hobby' - Bristol M.1c ‘Bullet’, Serial No. C4907 of No.150 Squadron operating in Macedonia during 1918. This aircraft was flown by Lt. K.B. Mosley. The full build log can be found here: As usual, a fully detailed build log in PDF format is available to read or download from my site (link below). Click the PDF icon to open the build log. Many thanks for your comments and support during this build, Mike

Hi all, That's it - all hidden, Mike

Hi all, The fuselage for the Nieuport 28C1 is ready to be closed up. I did say this was to be an out-of-the box build, which it is. Well, apart from: Peach basket resin seat from 'Aviatic'. Floor frame and side frames cross bracing wires - 0.4 mm diameter Nickel-Silver tube (blackened) and 0.08 mm diameter mono-filament. Rudder and elevator control wires - 0.4 mm diameter Nickel-Silver tube (blackened) and 0.08 mm diameter mono-filament. 0.3 mm and 0.4 mm diameter lead wire ('PlusModel' - oil pulse meter pipe and starter switch wire. 0.4 mm diameter Nickel-Silver tube - control rod from mixture control quadrant. Two forward cockpit frames (under main fuel tank) and shoulder height slotted panels - from photo-etch 'PART' N28 set. Tachometer decal - 'Airscale' WW1 instrument set. Shoulder harness and lap straps - from 'Wingnut Wings' Sopwith Snipe photo-etch set. The supplied instrument panel was modified to represent the actual panel. Most kit versions are modelled on the panel in the NASM reconstructed aircraft, which had additional instruments fitted for test flights. The aircraft had Tulip wood diagonal crossed strips, as opposed to the traditional Nieuport metal cladding. This was replicated by scribing the internal surface of the fuselage halves. Paints used were 'Tamiya' acrylics, 'Mr. Colour' enamels and 'Alclad' lacquers. Finishes used were 'AK Interactive' engine oil wash, 'Flory Models' Grime clay wash and 'Alclad' Light Sheen lacquer. Now to close it up inside the fuselage, never to be seen again, Mike

Hi all, As I'm waiting for the display case for the Bristol M.1C model, I thought I'd star the next model. This model will represent the Nieuport N.28C1, Serial No.6177, of the 95th Aero Squadron, 1st Pursuit Group, operating from Saints aerodrome, France, during 1918. This particular aircraft was flown by 1st Lt. Quentin Roosevelt, the son of the ex-President. As very little of the cockpit will be seen, I'll just add control lines and bracing rigging, so essentially 'out-of-box - I think Mike

Hi all, I've finished the pilot ('Kellerkind Models'). I think he's probably slightly over dressed for operating in Mesopotamia, but hey-ho. Painted with 'Tamiya' and 'AK Interactive' acrylics and 'Mr. Colour'. Weathered with 'Flory Models' clay wash and 'Tamiya' Weathering Master Sets A, D and C. That's it now so thanks for your support and comments. The next post will be the final reveal of the completed model, Mike

Hi all, I've finished the mechanic ('Copper State Models'), who will be pulling the propeller to prime the engine. I wanted him to look grubby and oil stained. Painted with 'Tamiya' and 'AK Interactive' acrylics. Weathered with 'Flory Models' clay wash and 'Tamiya' Weathering Master Sets A, D and C. Now it's onto the pilot, Mike

Hi all, The Bristol M1.c is finished now, although I still have the figures and display base to do. The shot below (minus propeller and spinner) is of the wing rigging, which turned out to be more difficult than I had hoped. Having built monoplanes before, I didn't anticipate how tricky it would be to fit the wings. The actual aircraft had a wing dihedral angle of between 2 and 3.5 degrees. However the two locating lugs at the root of each wing are woefully inadequate. The wings are moulded a single, solid pieces, so are quite heavy. Test fitting both wings into their locating holes in the fuselage proved useless as the both wings sagged down badly. I couldn't drill into the wing roots and through the fuselage to add metal rod 'spars for additional support (as I've done before on mono-planes). They would have crossed through and been visible in the cockpit. Therefore I decided to fit the flying and landing wires as the wings were fitted. In that way the wires actually supported the wings onto the over cockpit support frame, which I'd made from brass tubing. Mike

Hi all, The back end has now been rigged with rudder and elevator control lines and fin cross bracing. Also the ailerons control lines are done, as is the undercarriage cross bracing. Now it's onto fitting and rigging the wings, Mike

Hi all, All decals applied now and weathering done. Weathering is a mix of 'Flory' Grime clay wash, 'Tamiya' Weathering Master Set A, C and D (Gunmetal, Mud, Sand) and 'AK Interactive' enamel wash (Kerosene 2039 and Engine oil 2019). All seal in with 'Alclad' Light Sheen lacquer (ALC311). Now onto construction and rigging, Mike

Hi all, I decided to employ the same technique I used for the Ansaldo 'Baby' and create the linen effect using the 'Aviattic' weave effect decal (ATT32236). This was not an easy task for the fuselage, as it has a round section which also tapers towards the rear of the fuselage. This meant that I couldn't apply the decal as large pieces, as they would have folded and creased as they were applied towards the tapered rear of the fuselage. Instead I had to cut multiple paper templates to span only two fuselage longerons at a time. Then trace these templates onto the decal sheet, cut out the decals and apply them one by one, which took 9 hours. However I think the effect may have justified the effort. Now it's onto the wings, ailerons, fin, tailplanes and elevators, which should be easier, Mike

Hi all, I've replaced the kit supplied Vickers Mk.1 machine gun with one from 'GasPatch'. The actual aircraft had a ring site fitted to the weapon, which wasn't on the kit part, so I used a spare from a 'Wingnut Wings' Sopwith Camel kit, Mike

Hi all, The underside of the wings and fuselage were said to be a light blue colour, in order to reduce the absorbed heat reflected from the ground. It is thought the propeller spinner was of the same colour. The colour of the upper surfaces has been depicted as either a red/brown (PC 12) or an olive green (early PC10). The kit instructions and most colour profiles have the PC12 colour. However, the ‘Windsock’ Data file No:52 colour profile is PC10. As always the definition of colours from early monochrome photographs has always been problematic and the shade differences between PC10 and PC12 are no exception. The ’Windsock’ Data file states that it is possible that these aircraft were painted with PC12 when routed through the aircraft depot at Salonika, Greece. However, it was more likely the colour of aircraft operated in Macedonia was PC10, with the possible exception of No.72 Squadron. I decided to use the PC10 colour, based on the ‘Windsock’ data. The paint used was 'Hataka' lacquer Dark Olive Green (C301). Mike

Hi All, I've been working on the undersides of the Bristol, which had the lined doped in light blue to help reflect the heat whilst operating in Mesopotamia. First was to prime grey then mask off the wing ribs and fuselage longerons. Then pre-shade using 'Tamiya' Smoke (XF19). Lightly overspray with 'Tamiya' Light Blue (XF23). Then remove all masking and a final light top coat of the light blue. The propeller assembly was done at the same time. Now it's onto painting to top surfaces with PC10, which the 'Windsock' data file suggest would be correct (not the brown PC12 often used). Mike

Hi all, I've added the bungee type suspension cord to the axle ends, using 'EZ' heavy line (white). Also the half hoops at the axle ends, inboard from the base of the undercarriage struts. Made from annealed 0.4 mm diameter rod. Mike