 
        ScottsGT
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	Got another crazy one out there currently. shipped fro FL. Went to Charleston, SC, then to my regional hub, Columbia, SC center. Next was supposed to be Ridgeway, my PO. Nope. Now it’s sitting in the upstate in Greenville.
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	I just checked tracking on an eBay purchase I made. Coming from Utah. It went to Spokane WA 🙃 yesterday. I’m betting some geographically challenged moron doesn’t know the difference between Washington state vs. Washington DC area. I have had packages go through the DC area distribution center in the past. yea, the furthest corner in the CONUS away from SC they could send it.
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	Amazing.
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	Does the acronym SNAFU ring any bells? We should start a public campaign to change the name from USPS to USSNAFUS.
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	I live way out in BFE. Out here the local mechanics are guys that fix the old John Deere using baling wire and duct tape. I’ve been asking everyone for years about a good mechanic in the area and I get the same answer. Take it to the dealership. One guy I know took his jeep in to a local shop for a simple sway bar end link replacement. He installed them backwards so my friend took it home and corrected his mistake. Only problem was the bolts that extended through the ends were hitting things. He simply unbolted and turned them 180 and reinstalled so the bolts didn’t have a target.
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	5 year/100,000 miles.
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	Yea, and shortly after that there was a sensor device that is mounted on the front passenger side just above the alternator that went out and started leaking oil everywhere. Yea, that was a fix it now before it destroys the new alternator that costs how much? Yep, you guessed it…another $1600. What pissed me off was the oil sprayed everywhere aft of the leak, including the strut. Of course the dealership tried to take advantage of the moment (and me) and told me I needed new struts. Yea, right. And blinker fluid too? This car was built during covid if that tells you anything. But it went out right around 120,000 miles.
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	We had to have the alternator changed on our 2021 Pilot. There was no way I was reaching it with my back issues. $1600 at the dealership. Yea, big time ouch! From everything I read online, Honda genuine parts only since the cars computer is also plugged into it.
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	I swear, the post office must be advertising for new hires through a dyscalculia web forum. For the first two years of living in our new place the lady delivering the mail was always transposing 2356 with 2536. I got to know the guy up the street pretty good as we exchanged mail. One afternoon I actually had a serious discussion with her about this because I also have dyscalculia and didn’t figure it out until I was an adult running the video cameras at a conference for ADD, ADHD and Dyscalculia. It was a light bulb moment for me discovering why I struggled with numbers all my life. She went away about 6 months after that discussion. I’ve got a feeling she got diagnosed and went on disability.
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	My stay at home kids are worthless. They need to get out and get a job to help contribute somehow to the house.
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	Intake was fine. Apparently it was the one actuator that needed replacing. But I don’t care. The performance upgrade was worth the price of admission. 😁 When I nailed the throttle I squeezed like R2D2 when the Millennium Falcon went into hyperdrive.
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	Well, got ‘er done! My baby boy helping, err..doing it. The power now is incredible! Now the funny part. It wasn’t the shaft broken. 😁
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	Doesn’t work after the rod has been broken off. The rod snaps right where it comes out of the back of the intake. The other option was a Roush supercharger. Couldn’t convince the wife that $8500 was a better option than $1500. My son called me the day after I ordered everything to tell me he has a Roush supercharger for $400. Brand new. But it’s just the blower part. Still needs the intake and 87 other small parts. Told him I’m too old for those games. Besides, I have the 3:55 rear gear option. RPM’s wind up real fast with that gearing. Especially with a manual transmission.
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	I got the dreaded P2007 CEL code on my ‘15 Mustang. IMRC stuck closed on bank 2. Intake Manifold Runner Control. For those that aren’t in the know, the intake ports have “doors” that close to redirect airflow through different runners. Kind of like the old hot rod days where you put a tunnel Ram intake on for high RPM’s or a short runner intake for low end torque, but all in one. The design is a known failure since the rod that runs through the doors breaks off at the actuator. Three fix options. 1) Find an OEM ‘15-‘17 intake and swap it. Problem is, no longer available. 2)Try to Rube Goldberg the old intake with a new rod you made from bar stock. Seen it done on YouTube. No thanks 3) Or swap out the intake with a 2018 and put a tune on the ECM so it will run with the Gen II Coyote. Of course since I’m paying for a tune I might as well get an aftermarket cold air intake that flows better and have that rolled into the tune. So I’ve got $1500 of parts, tune and programmer sitting in the box now to install this coming weekend.
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	He’s kind of squirrelly like that. I bought it from the CMP probably 18-20 years ago. I actually bribed the ladies in the office with several lbs of chocolate and candy for a really nice specimen. Yea, got a sweet, 4 groove barrel, original date codes and never refinished with excellent parkerizing. I let him talk me out of it when I wanted to buy a couple of Danish woodless Garands to build for my son’s 18th birthdays. A couple months back he was talking about bringing it back and just having me write him a check for whatever I wanted to pay. I mentioned this a couple weeks ago and then he realized he has a carrot to dangle in front of me. I’ll eventually get it back.
 
		 
					
						 
                     
                     
                    