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Landlubber Mike

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About Landlubber Mike

  • Birthday August 17

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    Male
  • Location
    Washington, D.C. area

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  1. Mike, your D.1 came out amazing, just like your other models. I just wanted to thank you for creating and posting your build logs, especially in PDF format (I usually save multiple pages of helpful build logs, but having a single PDF makes it so much easier).. They are incredibly helpful, and I can only imagine how much time it takes you to put them together. They are fantastic resources, and take a lot of the mystery out of building these cool subjects. So thank you very much! Looking forward to your upcoming subjects!
  2. Ernie, just wanted to welcome you back and wish you and your mom all the best.
  3. Looking forward to this one - have the Navy version in the stash
  4. Just wanted to thank you Peter for taking the time and effort to not only run these tests, but share them with us. Really appreciate it!
  5. Thanks Harv - have done both. Apparently Eduard has discontinued the PBY PE sets.
  6. Ended up scoring a deal on a Pro Modeler PBY-5A Catalina 1/48, which had a lot of goodies but missing the Eduard undercarriage set. Thought I'd post here to see if anyone had a set they were looking to part with. Thanks!
  7. Wow, that looks really fantastic! Also noted that they are re-releasing the Shinden and Horton Ho 229. I have to say, this type of honesty and candor from Z-M on the Shinden is really cool to see. Even though I haven't built a Z-M kit yet (waiting to get my skills up before tackling the ones in my stash), statements like this make me a real fan of the company. As a very early work from Zoukei-Mura, it still has some issues with roughness and difficult assembly. Nevertheless, it is a kit with an impressive form, and you will surely feel an indescribable sense of achievement when you conquer its assembly.
  8. Quick question - anyone have any ideas on how to represent a WWII carrier's hangar deck flooring? I haven't found many pictures of what it would look like, aside from this colorized one of what I think might be a Wildcat: I can't really tell what the floor is made of - metal? How would I represent it? A dark steel color with scribed lines to represent what looks like big metal floor panels, with some oil and other spills? Since I have the model with panels off, etc., I was thinking about sitting it on a hangar deck in a diorama scene with a mechanic or two. I have this Verlinden set which could supply some of the figures, though with the hoods, I'm wondering if those mechanics would be more apt to be on the landing deck versus the hangar deck: Thanks in advance!
  9. I'm just about at the end of this build. Everything is pretty much painted, decaled and put together (aside from the folded wings which will be attached at the end), and has a coat of gloss pre-weathering, etc. So far so good. I just purchased the Proxxon hot wire cutter so can start making bases for my models, including dioramas.
  10. I usually use Mr. Surfacer 1200 or 1500. I used to spray straight from the rattle can, but recently started buying the glass jars and thinning it through my airbrush. Grey or black, shoots very clean and provides a very strong bond that doesn't lift off when taped, etc. I've also used Tamiya primers from the rattle can - they go on similarly nicely, but the Tamiya rattle can nozzles I find can spit and otherwise cause problems. For smaller stuff that doesn't need to be taped like cockpit interiors, I've used Vallejo. I don't like Vallejo as a general primer because it can lift no matter how long it has cured. But for small detail stuff, I like it.
  11. Wow, I see models like that and it makes me think I need to take up another hobby. Well done! I could have sworn I was looking at the real deal in 1:1 in those outdoor pictures.
  12. I painted these on my F4F builds using Montex masks. Also painted the chevrons and belly band, but used white line decals for the edges. The order for me was white disc, blue background, then red center circle. The masks didn't sit particularly tightly and I had some running of colors underneath which was annoying. Next time around, after placing the mask, I might shoot a thin coat of clear around the edges of the mask to help avoid colors going under the masks. Anyone else do that?
  13. Ernie - looks great! Martin, you're looking great as well! I wish I had more time the last few weeks as I might have joined you guys, though I'm no where near as skilled or as fast a builder as you both. I really love the squat bulldog type look of this plane. I have this one in 1/32 with the Brengun flaps add-on: And then this one in 1/48 with a crap load of CMK extras:
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