BradG Posted October 15, 2013 Share Posted October 15, 2013 Firstly, let me say that doing what I have done will void your airbrush warranty from Testors. However, if you are like me who tends to rip apart everything from fridges to washing machines, dryers etc to repair them when they break down (I am an extremely accomplished washing machine repairman!), read on. You may notice that your 470 starts to spatter, the trigger is stuck solid when you leave the airbrush for a week or the needle doesn't close off fully when it should, then your airbrush is probably gunked up on the inside. 1. To take the airbrush apart, you need a flat bladed screw driver. Just work it gently into the spot indicated to pry the sections apart. Do this carefully or you will scar the plastic badly. 2. It's apart, pull out the entire insides, they are not clipped or glued in. 3. Detach the air value from the unit. It just pulls out. You can also pull out the blue air tube, it is not glued or clipped in, just shoved in. 4. Now to get the trigger away from the front body, pull back on the red part. It is spring loaded so make sure when the trigger comes out of the grove it doesn't go flying accross the room. 5. Remove the plunger from the trigger, it just slips out. (Note that it appears clean here and still in place in the next pic as I took the pictures out of order) 6. Now you get to clean. The arrows indicate where the airbrush gunks up. This build up of paint causes both the airbrush trigger to stick solid when left and to foul the mechanism, not allowing the needle to fully close off when the roller is in the fully closed position. Once you clean out all the crap, put the airbrush back together in the reverse order. However, be careful not to pinch the airhose when you are closing up the airbrush. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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