WIP 1:32 A6M2-N Rufe (Tamiya/MDC Conversion)

[rkranias]

May 2012 I returned to my childhood hobby after a 30+ year hiatus this was my first complete project.  I posted finished pics of this when LSM launched in early 2013.

 

Since, I have received several inquiries regarding this conversion.  I felt it is time to get off my bunns and post the WIP.   I hope this will be beneficial to anyone taking on this project.  I truly had a lot of fun with this complete with lots of learning curves, angst, drama and many more challenging metaphors.  Enjoy.

 

MODEL DETAILS

1:32 Tamiya A6M2b Zero conversion to A6M2-N Rufe

 

THIS BUILD IS A SERIES OF FIRSTS:

• First complete build from box in over 30 years, officially returning to my childhood hobby
• First using resin
• First using Photo Etch
• First using Masks
• First using Double Action Airbrush
• First using Acrylic Paints

INSPIRATION

At age 17 I took a 1:72 scale A6M Zero and attached floats from a OS2U Kingfisher.  Vac-u-formed canopy and applied thinned wash weathering techniques for the first time.  This model was my pride and joy.

I took advantage of this opportunity to do a conversion with Tamiya's epic 1:32 A6M2b.  In the end it was truly an enjoyable build with plenty of drama and angst.

AFTERMARKET

MDC
CV32039 A6M2-N Rufe Conversion
Eduard
Big Ed 3251: Engine, Landing Flaps, Interior and Canopy Mask.
Air Master
AM-32/006 A6M5 Type 97 7.7mm MG.
CMK
5003 A6M5 Armament Set 60kg bombs, PE Stabilizers and Fuse Spinners.
Maketar Masks
Imperial Japanese HinomaruRoundels mask set and Custom mask for tail number

GENERAL PAINT DATA

Upper Tamiya XF-11 JN Green
Lower Tamiya XF-12 JN Grey
Interior Tamiya XF – 71 Cockpit Green
Engine Alclad Magnesium, Burnt Iron, Exhaust Manifold, MIG pigments
Propeller  Alclad Airframe Aluminum, Exhaust Manifold 24 parts + Copper 6 parts, Dark Aluminum, Dura Aluminum
Cowling Frames, Inside Cowling, Inside Landing Flaps  Blue Aotake: Tamiya Clear Smoke 11 parts + Clear Blue 10 parts + Clear Green 1 part

60kg Bombs  Mr. Surfacer 500 stippled with short stiff brush for texture then painted with Vallejo Model Air Olive Grey (RLM71)
Hinomaru  Vallejo Air Color: Red (RLM23) 20 parts + Vallejo Air Color: Fire Red 1 part
Wing ID Bands and Tail Number  Vallejo Air Color: Yellow 5 parts + Vallejo Model Color: Bright Orange 1 part

 

Finished Link:  A6M2-N

REPRESENTS

A6M2-N Rufe Y2-102
452^nd Air Fleet
Aquatic Airbase Shumushu, North Kuril Nov 1942 – January 1945*
*Assigned to Seaplane Tender – Kamikawa Maru, Feb 1943 – May 1943

Y2-102 served as an interceptor for defending fuel depots at the Shumushu Island base North Kurile and served aboard seaplane carrier Kamikawa Manu.

 

 

[Paulster]

Boy….that's a mouthful. Good luck and have fun. Waiting for pic's.

[rkranias]

Using will be Tamiya's A6M2b and MDC's A6M2N Rufe conversion.

 

 

The MDC parts are cast well.  Instructions are relatively clear.  You really need to study these and sort the parts.  The parts have slight flash and rivet detail will need touching up especially on the main float.  Let the soaking, cleaning and trimming begin.

 

The Beach Dolly will be the first element completed as this will serve to prop plane during construction and paint phases. Initial exam clearly shows this dolly is very flimsy and there is no way this will support the weight of the kit with about 1/4lb of resin.  Strengthening the dolly will be a priority. 

 

 

Using Medium CA the beach dolly assembly begins.

 

All seams and joints are well covered.  A broken carbon bicycle spoke comes in handy as a faux axle for the beach dolly and adding much needed stability.

Measure is about 5.8mm.  Am leaving just a tad extra and will sand to final fit.

 

Careful cut with a 54t saw.

 

Sand to final fit.

 

Nest faux axle and apply CA on braces.

 

After CA applied set aside for a nice long cure time.  Time to begin the pit.

[rkranias]

Boy….that's a mouthful. Good luck and have fun. Waiting for pic's.

Pics will be coming fast.  Build was finished September 2012.  Lost WIP after the SPAR Mk.1 crash and SPAR Mk.2 reconfigure to LSM.

 

Had a blast with this build and I hope many will benefit from the WIP.

[rkranias]

 

 

 

 

After I painted some interior parts of the pit I realized I needed to remove control systems for landing gear and tail hook.  Then opened up lightening holes in the tub frame.

[rkranias]

 

Opened lightening holes in the seat mount.

 

 

All photoetch parts mounted and ready for paint.  Yeah, painting before adding PE was a bad idea.  First time using PE...that's my story and I'm sticking to it!

 

Pit painted and weathered.

[Timc]

I'm glad that I wasn't the only one who saw the need to remove the landing gear and tail hook details.  Good catch.  There's one more piece of equipment that may need to be removed from your cockpit.  It's been a long time but I think the floatation tube (silver tube with the petcock on it on your left sidewall) does not belong in the A6M2N as the floatation bags weren't installed (again, check my information as it has been a long time since I dabbled in the A6M2-N).  I think you also removed the flap handle/actuator (one of the two black handles on the right sidewall).  I built this conversion awhile back and never finished it.  My castings didn't look as nice as the ones I'm seeing in your photos.  My outrigger floats had horrible mismatch seams on both the struts and the floats themselves.  I filled, sanded ad nauseum but in the end I just threw in the towel.  The main float wasn't real bad and I did manage to use it up until the point where I chucked the entire project but you nailed the "flimsy" part of the beaching dolly right off the bat. 

 

Here's a bit of FYI in the event you're interested.  The rudder on the A6M2N is taller than the rudder on the A6M2b in the area of the mass balance weight forward of the hinge line at the top of the rudder.  MDC got this part spot on the money and it really is a good conversion, pity I couldn't make it work.  One word of caution though, check the lower forward wing insert for fit prior to cutting out the wheel well area from the lower wing.  My copy and another build I saw online were both short in span and we both needed to build up the ends of the resin part cause we didn't check the fit prior to sawing the lower wing up.

[rkranias]

I'm glad that I wasn't the only one who saw the need to remove the landing gear and tail hook details.  Good catch.  There's one more piece of equipment that may need to be removed from your cockpit.  It's been a long time but I think the floatation tube (silver tube with the petcock on it on your left sidewall) does not belong in the A6M2N as the floatation bags weren't installed (again, check my information as it has been a long time since I dabbled in the A6M2-N).  I think you also removed the flap handle/actuator (one of the two black handles on the right sidewall).  I built this conversion awhile back and never finished it.  My castings didn't look as nice as the ones I'm seeing in your photos.  My outrigger floats had horrible mismatch seams on both the struts and the floats themselves.  I filled, sanded ad nauseum but in the end I just threw in the towel.  The main float wasn't real bad and I did manage to use it up until the point where I chucked the entire project but you nailed the "flimsy" part of the beaching dolly right off the bat. 

 

Here's a bit of FYI in the event you're interested.  The rudder on the A6M2N is taller than the rudder on the A6M2b in the area of the mass balance weight forward of the hinge line at the top of the rudder.  MDC got this part spot on the money and it really is a good conversion, pity I couldn't make it work.  One word of caution though, check the lower forward wing insert for fit prior to cutting out the wheel well area from the lower wing.  My copy and another build I saw online were both short in span and we both needed to build up the ends of the resin part cause we didn't check the fit prior to sawing the lower wing up.

Thanks Tim.  I studied several A6M2 cockpit photos and diagrams and I did the best I could with information I had available.  Things like this I will always settle for FICE.  Good surface prep (cleaned parts, primer, micro-mesh sand, clean and prime again) on the resin parts solved all issues.  I came close to pitching this several times.  Not an easy build which threw me several challenges.  I am glad I hung in there and finished this.  I really learned multiple problem solving skills.

[rkranias]

 

Engine, ignition wires, manifold, prop and prop hub painted flat black followed by various Alclad colors.

 

Sakae engine complete and ready for test fit on firewall.  Prop hub missing correct piece (base plate) and will be replaced later. 

 

Blue Aotake is achieved with Tamiya Clear Smoke 11 parts + Clear Blue 10 parts + Clear Green 1 part thinned 25:75 (paint:thinner) the sprayed over silver base.  Treat the Aotake application as you would a wash.  Remember this was applied in a haphazard way at the factory.  Thank you Dave Johnson for the Aotake formula.

[rkranias]

Tail Plug installation begins with removing original from the kit.

 

Priliminary cut close to correct lines.

 

 

Careful sanding to correct lines.

 

Repeat other side and test fit.

 

Clean the resin plug.

 

Test fit looks good.

[rkranias]

Lower tail plug with tie down/grab handle.

 

Tail hook mount needs to be removed.

 

Careful trimming.

 

Fit looks good.

 

Good casting by MDC yielded a really nice fit.

[rkranias]

Original tail (top) will be replaced with new taller tail (bottom).

 

It's a plug 'n play fit.

 

First, the rear top spine needs to be addressed.  This is kit supplied and needs to be cut at first panel line beyond base of rudder.

 

After cut sand to panel line.

 

Test fit Tail, Rudder, Tail Plug, Lower Tail Plug with Tie Down/Grab Handle and Rear Top Spine.  Fit is real god with minimal need for putty work.

[rkranias]

Cockpit tub mounted and fuselage buttoned up.

 

Engine test fitted to firewall.  CAUTION!  Be sure you assemble the firewall for the A6M2b and not the A6M5.  Carefully cross reference the Tamiya instructions and parts to be eliminated.  The A6M5 firewall will not fit the A6M2b kit.  I am somewhat of an expert on this. 

 

 

 

Cowling test fit.

 

Tamiya's engineering is outstanding on their A6M2b.  I have discovered if there are fit/alignment issues then it either wrong part or incorrectly placed.  Critical to RTFM!

 

Prop hub needs some attention.

[rkranias]

Type 97 7.7mm MG replacement with AirMaster brass barrels.

Cut plastic MG barrel off.

 

Use Pin Vise to drill locator hole for brass upgrade.

 

Really nice upgrade.

[rkranias]

Mounting Main Float Wing Plug and Wing Float locator holes. 

 

This is where the fun begins.  Several times I was ready to pitch this project.  Yes, there will be fit issues.  Yes, there will be plenty of filling and scribing involved.  All is doable.

 

I hope the following posts will provide insight and tips on making this conversion work.  With patience and good problem solving this conversion is possible with great results.

Lower wing before surgery.

 

Remove wheel wells.

 

Carefully follow instructions for cutting guide.

 

Draw cut lines.

 

Carefully cut at accept the lover wing plug.

 

Final test fit wing plug.  Be advised it will be difficult to cut for a perfect flush fit.  Styrene and putty will be required for filling gaps.  Then some scribing to finish.

[rkranias]

Mounting wing plug and float locator holes.  These simple preparations will made several difficult steps very manageable.  These worked for me and I hope they will provide you with some good coaching for these next steps.

To make room for locator tabs for the lower wing plug you must remove the Display Stand locator hole from the inside.  Take cutters and make cuts every 1/8 inch and bend off pieces of Display Stand locator hole.  Then remove pieces and sand flush.

 

After sanding Display Stand locator hole smooth I cut 3 pieces of sheet styrene. Sizes are approximate.  I want a little overhang for the lower wing plug to set and be glued.

 

Clamps are used to secure.  I gave this about a 48 hour cure time.

 

Tamiya Liquid cement used to weld styrene to wing.  I made n adjustment by adding another styrene piece just to the inside of the gun bays.

 

A very nice glue area is now offered for the lower wing plug.

 

Test fit looks good.

 

Locator holes for wing floats.

Following the leading edge wing spar, measure from inside edge 35mm.  Then from leading edge of wing, measure 19mm.  This is a good time to drill out the bomb rack holes if you plan on using any ordinance on your A6M2N.  Follow Tamiya instructions for drilling holes for the bomb racks.

 

Using a .35mm vice brill bit drill your starter hole.  Keep in mind this is merely a starter hole.  Once you determine final size of pin for the wing float strut you will drill that size from the outside.  Repeat on port wing. 

[rkranias]

Locator holes for main float spars.

Locate center of inside lower wing and tape a card following the center line.  Then take piece of card place along outside of rear wing spar.  Secure with tape and begin to measure.  Based on test fitting my estimate is about 15mm from center for each main float spar. 

 

Using a .035mm pin vice drill a starter hole on each side.  Keep in mind this is merely a starter hole.  Once you determine final size of pin for the wing float strut you will drill that size from the outside.

 

Done and done!  Time to close up the wings.

[rkranias]

Mounting the wings with lower wing plug and algnment is the most difficult part of this conversion.  After many, many test fits and head scratching I felt this would be the best approach.  This approach worked best for me.  I recommend you digest what I did and modify which works best for you.  It's doable, patience is a prime requirement.  Good luck!

 

After wings are assembled with guns, ailerons, etc.  Glue wing to fuselage.  Carefully line up seams at trailing edge and wing root area.  Apply glue (Tenax or Tamiya liquid).  I cannot place more emphasis on good alignment.

 

DO NOT GLUE LOWER WING PLUG AT THIS TIME.  WING PLUG WILL BE GLUED AFTER WING GLUE IS CURED.

Wings buttoned up, align the wing plug to leading edge of wing and match lower engine firewall.  Tape into position.  Gaps can be filled between panel lines.  Fixing leading edges will be much more difficult.

 

After glue has cured for main wing attachment it is time to glue the resin wing plug.  Double check alignment of wing plug to leading edge, wing root and lower engine firewall.  Secure with tape.  Remember, do not be concerned with gaps in the panel lines, it is inevitable.  Priority is seam alignment with leading edge, wing root and lower engine firewall.  Apply CA glue from inside.

 

Main float pylon glued to lower wing plug with thick CA. Will give this a 48 hour cure.  Good view where lower engine firewall of the resin wing plug meet with kit lower firewall.  Align with one hand then apply CA one small spot at a time working towards leading edge of wing and continue to MG cover.  Repeat other side. 

 

Main Float Plug is a critical stress point.  I recommend roughing the contact surfaces with sandpaper and installing locator pins.  Apologizes for no pics of brass locator pins installed on the Main Float Plug.  Let this cure for at least 48 hours before continuing.

 

 

After main float pylon mount is cured it's time to fill some gaps with styrene strips mounted with med CA on resin parts and with Tamiya liquid on styrene parts.

 

After a 48 hour cure putty, sand and scribe action will begin.

[rkranias]

Mask prep for applying putty.  I used Squadron Green Putty and was happy with results. 

 

 

At this time my putty knowledge was extremely limited.  Looking back, this would be a great use for Milliput or even 3M Acryl Red.

 

BE SURE TO TAPE OVER WING GUN OPENINGS TO KEEP DUST OUT.

 

This lip on the Lower Wing Plug gave me fits on engine cowling alignment.  Alignment was spot on with lower engine firewall and leading edge at wing root.  I researched to find out exactly what the function on this was on the real aircraft and failed miserably.  

 

Boom!  It was gone, problem solved.  In the end the appearance was not affected.  However, the engine cowling issue was solved.  This is my FICE approach and I am happy with the decision.

 

Chin completed and putty applied.  Lower Wing Plug sanded and rivet detail done for now.

 

Sanding complete.  Chin all pretty.

[rkranias]

Before securing the Main Float some work is needed.  The rivet detail is soft so with rivet tool in hand the fun begins.  The Beach Dolly that was assembled very early will serve well as support when Main Float is attached to plane.

 

Over 1500 rivets needed. 

[rkranias]

The Main Float will be mounted with aid of a brass pin and medium CA.  Successful contact and adhesion is critical. 

 

ZAP brand CA  This is the brand I used and have no issues with ZAP products.  ZAP CA 

 

Be sure to prepare contact surfaces with a 150 grit sandpaper.

 

 

Allow at least 48 hour cure before handling.  Always handle with care and use the Beach Dolly to prop.  I had no issues with adhesion during remainder of build.

[mhorina]

Hi Rick,

    A  few questions if I may. What is the yellow brush you used for the CA when you were reinforcing the dolly? Can it be used more than one time, before going hard? Where did you buy it?   Thanks in advance

      Mike Horina

[rkranias]

Hi Rick,

    A  few questions if I may.

1. What is the yellow brush you used for the CA when you were reinforcing the dolly?
2. Can it be used more than one time, before going hard?
3. Where did you buy it?  

 

Thanks in advance - Mike Horina

 

1. They are Micro Brushes. Yellow is the Fine Tip.  You have 3 sizes to choose from.  Regular, Fine and Super Fine.
2. Typically a one use.  Sometimes when using CA you might get about 4 or 5 applications.  I buy them by the 100's.  Multiple uses
3. Micro-Mark 

Good luck, let me know if you have any questions.

 

Best - Rick

[mhorina]

Thanks, Rick,

  I thought that's what they were. I was just hoping it was some miracle tool. Thanks again

    Mike

[Dave J]

Glad to see that you pulling this one out again! Shame that we lost it in the great crash!