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About yknu

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    LSM Member

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  • Location
    Helsinki, Finland
  • Interests
    1:32 WW2 Planes, especially B-17G and Lancaster. 1:35 Armour, WW2 mainly German 1943-45, and Finnish. Also some interest in 1:48 ww2, cold war planes.

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  1. Thanx Nige, excellent work! I should have time to start to built my Lanc after mid April so I can use many of your tips. One item I would like to add to my Lanc is the curtain on the cockpit roof. I have some Ideas but it would mean to build the frames. I heard that VNW have these frames.
  2. You are right. The challenge I have is that in the old BW pictures from the cockpit the panels actually look very matt or even dark grayish. Any comment?
  3. I got yesterday Eduard masks and steel belts. Those are much better than brass ones. I am waiting HGW belts too. In this scale fabric looks better in my pow. Waiting resin wheels and bulged bomb doors.
  4. Thanx Nige, and sorry about the wrong part numbering -K4 and L4 are the right ones. As I have made the HKM B-17G, where I needed to return a lot of rivets and scribe a lot of lines. I use trumpeter riveting too, which is crap but has two disks, where the spacing is useful (at some point I will buy Rosie the Riveter). I filled the lines and rivets that I needed to remove with self made putty. Best comes from evergreen and Tamiya Gree - thin or extra glue. I used the rest of one old glue bottle. I let it dry several days. the issue I found was that there was some air bubbles and not all rivet holes were not filled. My guessing is that because I used my other putty made from Dragon sprue, that might have included some other chemicals. When putty was dried, with brand new chisel blades I start the level the area. This is the most tricky part to level the area so that you do no make a dint. When I was happy with the surface, I painted the area with heavily diluted Tamiya surfacer. When that had dried, I draw with pencil the lines I needed to make. Then with the very thin flexible steel ruler I started to make rivets and scribe the lines. I like Tamiya scribe as it removes the plastic. If something went wrong, quite often the thin glue was enough to melt the holes. I ended up making the rivets by hand using the disks only. Warning! I do not know yet, how good these are before I paint whole wing with primer. I like to use Mr. Primer surfacer 1000 B-524 in spray bottle. Is this any help?
  5. Dry fitting going on. This is BIG! The 1:48 Mitchell as reference. With the wings some additional work had be done with parts K34 and L34. Dry fitting and sanding was needed. K34 went ok but with L34 something went a wrong when gluing. The part was about 1mm too much out and that happened during the gluing process, bugger :0(. Well, had to make a fix with evergreen.
  6. Scribing going on with the wings. Not finnished yet but as soon they are done, I wil spray primer to wider area to see, how well the match with the others.
  7. I was missspelling -it is Dark Victor 617 sqn. (jb139, tranfered from 49 sgn)
  8. I have been wondering the same. I am not going to display the engines.
  9. Haynes Lancaster book page 33 TOP and page both 34 RIGHT - looks like formation lights seemsxto be like in HKM Lanc. Same in Lancaster ar War , Pathfinder Sq ( Alex Thorne) page 66-67 (ME701 Whos Bessie)
  10. Dinghy port and landing lights removal in progress. Next step is scribe the right details.
  11. Now the formation lights:0) Both version existed side by side. I contacted HKModels about this. I need to find out which ones my reference has.
  12. I just got reply from Iconicair: they will make bulged doors and Tallboy after they have finished the John Brown airfield tractor.
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