sandbagger

Hi all, A few more updates for the carburettors and induction manifolds. Hollowed out the air intakes at the bottom of the carburettors. The induction manifolds cut/joins have been filled. Added the carburettor barrels (made from a tooth pick). Added 0.5 mm diameter plastic rod into the induction manifolds and carburettor barrels to represent the interconnecting fuel supply pipe and auxiliary pipe. Added control lever for the throttle butterfly valves in the induction manifolds (control rods to added later). Added three nuts to each intake manifold header pipe. Obviously it all needs cleaning up and priming, but for now I'll move onto creating the 12 spark plugs, Mike

Hi all, On the side of the engine crank case and between the two carburettors is a blanking plate. I believe this plate was fitted to seal what was previously the oil filler pipe for the engine sump, but not used on this version of the engine. To represent this blanking plate, I cut a disc of approximately 2.5 mm diameter from 0.2 mm thick plastic card and secure it in position on the sump using thin CA adhesive. Two oil filler pipes were used to replenish oil in the engine sump and were located on the engine crank case on the opposite side from the carburettors. Each was fitted with a cap. Two 2.5 mm diameter discs were cut from 0.2 mm plastic card and secured on the sump. The centre of each disc and into the sump were gradually drilled up to 1.3 mm diameter. To represent these filler pipes, 0.8 mm diameter rod was slide into 1.2 mm tube. The tubes were annealed then bent to the required angle. One end was roll cut to remove the outer tube leaving rod exposed. The other end was cut completely through. 2.0 mm plastic rod was cut to to create two 5 mm lengths and a 0.9 mm diameter hole drilled through the centre of each. These were attached on the exposed 0.8 mm rods and secured with CA adhesive. The top of the 'caps' were then filed down to a height of 1.5 mm and sanded around the top edge.. Lastly the two 'filler pipes' were secured in the crank case holes with CA adhesive, Mike

Hi all, I thought I'd explain why I'm attempting to detail the engine as much as I am. Normally if the engine is partly or totally covered by airframe or engine panels, there would be less reason to detail the engine as much. However the Macchi M.5, even with the engine under tray and side panels fitted, was mostly visible. The particular aircraft I'm attempting to model is 'FRANGAR NON FLECTAR’, Serial No.7288 as flown by Tenente DV Alberto Bartolozzo, Officer Commanding No.260a Squadriglla, operating from Venice during 1918. That particular aircraft did not have the engine side panels fitted and so the entire engine was fully exposed. The engine is a primary focal point for anyone looking at the model. Therefore I felt that it was important to rectify the apparent omissions and errors with the kit supplied engine. Mike

Hi all, The kit supplied engine carburettors and their intake manifolds are not correct for this engine and need to be drastically modified to make them represent the actual engine. The photographs below is one of several that show what the fuel supply components on the engine actually looked like, which is not how the kit engine parts are made. Basically: The two carburettors need to be separated. The two carburettors need air intake openings. The two inlet manifold pipes need to be modified. The vertical drop pipes were cut away from the three ported header pipes. The three ported header pipes were cut and extended using a 0.5 mm diameter pin, so that the three ports aligned correctly with the cylinder heads. The vertical drop pipes were shortened and had a 0.5 mm diameter pin inserted in the tops, which were inserted into a hole drilled in the underside of the extended three ported header pipes. This was done to correctly align the drop pipes to between the cylinder banks. The joined kit carburettors were separated and each attached to the bottom of the drop pipes with 0.5 mm pin. Finally the 90 degree bend that was cut away from the drop pipes were used to create the air intakes under the carburettors. There's a way to go on each of the two assemblies, such as filling and sanding and the addition of the interconnected fuel supply pipes and throttle controls etc. Those components will have to be scratched, Mike

Bostik 'Blu tac' is good for general use and for masking areas such as open holes, around cockpit rims (with 'Klingfilm' pressed into it to cover the opening). However it has an oily component, which I think helps release it from the surface. If left in position for too long it can leave a mark, which can affect the applied paint if not cleaned off. I use 'Uhu' white tac, which has the same properties but has no oily residue, Mike

Hi all, I believe the cooling system operates as follows: A coolant pipe is attached to one side of the engine. The pipe connects each of the three cylinder banks. Coolant is drawn through a pipe from the bottom of the radiator by the pump. The pump then supplies coolant through the engine pipe into the cylinder cooling jackets. The coolant passes up inside the cooling jackets and out through cylinder connectors to a return pipe on the opposite, top side of the engine. From there the coolant flows back to the radiator to be cooled. I created the pump to cylinder feed pipe using 0.9 mm tube with 1.1 mm diameter collars. The flexible pipe to the pump is 0.8 mm diameter lead wire. The larger return pipe is 1.4 mm diameter tube with six 0.8 mm holes drilled into one side to align with the six 90 degree pipe connectors, made from annealed and bent 0.8 mm tube. Holes of 0.8 mm diameter were drilled vertically down into the engine lugs at one side of the valves on that side of the engine. The connectors were then located into the engine and return pipe, Mike

Hi all, On each side of the engine are flat section tubes that are attached at the bottom of the cylinder heads. These tubes retain and support the six ignition leads on each side of the engine. The kit supplies photo-etch parts which need to be bent to represent the two support tubes. However, when created, these photo-etch tubes are much larger than shown in the photographs. Also, once bent over, they create a flat, double thick 'plate' rather than a flat section tube. Therefore I decided to create the two support tubes using micro-tube. Two brass tubes of 1.6 mm diameter, annealed to soften them then semi-flattened in smooth jaw vice. The ends were filed to a 60 degree angle then two holes of 0.5 mm diameter drilled into the inboard sides. Brass pins of 0.5 mm diameter were secured in these holes and corresponding location holes drilled into the base of the cylinder banks. Mike

Hi all, The engine was fitted with a water pump for the cooling system. On the actual engine the pump was located forward (radiator end) of the engine, below the magnetos and engine sump/crank case joint. I wanted to represent the water pump and its pipe work, but due to space restrictions, I had to locate it higher on the engine than was actually the case. The kit engine has a pronounced 'step' in the engine sump at the end facing the radiator (forward end). This 'step' is intended to fit under the installed radiator. I've cut away this 'step' and fitted two propeller shaft housings from my spares box to recreate the previously rounded end of the sump. To one side I've added a modified water pump, again from my spares box. Still more to do - plugs and wiring, ignition lead support tubes, oil filler pipes and what pipe work and controls I can fit. The whole assembly still needs cleaning up and painting of course. Mike

Hi all, Work continues on modifying the kit engine to represent what the engine actually looked like. I've now added a 'camshaft' below the 3 vale lever shafts from 1.8 mm diameter tube. Also added a pair of 'Taurus' magnetos and a drive shaft (from the spares box). Finally the drive at the rear end of the engine (1.0 mm tube and drive head modified from spares). It's all a bit rough at the moment and I still need to add water pump and if possible and oil pump, plus their associated pipes (where possible). Also the ignition lead support tube etc. Mike

Hi all, The radiator assembly done. This needs to be done now and added into the radiator housing and engine bottom fairing. Then I can start to work on the missing components at the forward end of the engine, such as magnetos, pipes etc, Mike

Thank you Sir D.G - I'm sure others, like me, really appreciate your comments. Hi all, The valve operation on the 'Isotta Fraschini' V4B engine is strange by comparison to other in-line engines of the period. Normally the inlet and exhaust valves on each cylinder would be operated from a single overhead 'camshaft'. However photographs and drawing for this engine show three separate shafts, each operating the valves for its cylinder bank. I can only assume the drive for the three shafts is located below them in the lower half of the overall housing, which is not represented on the kit part. The kit part, including the inlet manifolds seems to have been modelled more on that fitted, for example, on the Daimler-Mercedes in-line engines. I've modified the overhead operating shaft by cutting it into the three sections, removing the kit shaft and replacing it with 1.8 mm diameter tubing. This required some re-profiling of the operating shaft mountings at each end of the engine (radiator and propeller shaft ends), including 2 mm extension to fit to the end vertical drives. The tubes still need to be blocked at each end as the shafts were solid, not tubular. This has also shown up several other areas of the engine that require attention (so far): Both inlet manifolds and the two carburettors are incorrectly moulded - the manifolds too long and wrong shape - the carburettors are joined, but in fact were separately located. No spark plugs location. No water pump supplied in the kit. Mike

Hi all, Many thanks for your kind comments, Mike

Hi all, Many thanks for your kind comments, Mike

Hi Jeff, Lead wire in different diameters (0.2 to 1.0 mm diameter) from 'PlusModel'. Still available from various on-line retailers, Mike

Hi all, The rear edge of the cockpit rim was fitted with shoulder padding which is not in the kit. I represented this padding using 'Milliput' putty. Once it has fully cured I'll clean it up. The photo-etch supplied with the kit has part 19, which is intended to represent a curved support for the top of the pilot’s seat, although I could not find any references to this type of seat support. However photographs do show a fixture connecting the top, rear edge of the seat to the rear bulkhead of the cockpit. I represented this fixing using 0.5 plastic rod. The inlet and exhaust valves on the 'Isotta Fraschini' V4B engine are operated by an overhead shaft. The kit shaft is moulded as one shaft. The actual engine had three separate shafts. Also the shaft mounting to the engine do not align. I'll correct by cutting away the mountings from the shaft then drill out the three segments and insert brass tubes. Mike

Hi all, Here are the final reveal shots of the WW1 Austro-Hungarian Aviatik 'Berg' D.I fighter, operating with Flik 63J during 1918. 1:32 scale resin model from the Czech company 'HPH Models. Gaspatch turnbuckles, micro-tube and mono-filament used for the rigging. Laminated wood propeller from 'ProperPlane'. Figure from Grass mat for display base from 'Polak'. Paint used were 'Tamiya' acryics. Figure - ‘Copper State Models’ Austro-Hungarian flying ace (F32-032). My usual full and detailed PDF build log is available to download from gallery 2 on my site (link below). Mike

Hi all, Pilot's seat modified: Thickness of seat back reduced. Seat belt slots added. Seat back rolled edge added (0.4 mm lead wire. Mike

Hi all, There's still a lot of detail to do for the cockpit area, including thinning and roll edging the seat as well as adding the bulk head seat fixing at the top of the seat. Also the seat needs to have the access for the seat belts to pass through, as the kit instructions show them positioned over the sides of the seat, not through it, Mike

Hi Phil, Yes their resin kits are expensive and do have the odd problem. However, no-one else produces them in this scale so you 'pays your money and takes your choice', Mike.

Hi all, I've modified the pilot's foot boards and seat support to: Cut away the centre foot board and rear cross member on the hull floor. This allows the control column to be positioned more realistically, otherwise it would be too close to the seat. Added more lightening holes in the seat back, as per the official drawing. Added the 'V' shaped support (made from thick paper) below the seat. This also housed the control column torque tube, aileron control bell crank and aileron control pulley and control cables. Added nail head indentations to the foot board to cross member joints. Mike

Hi all, I've cut away the centre foot board and rear cross member on the hull floor. This allows the control column to be positioned more realistically, otherwise it would be too close to the seat. Also allows fitting of the 'V' shaped seat support. A notch was cut into the centre cross member on the hull floor to allow the torque bar of the control column to be adhered to the hull floor (better support) These changes will allow the control column to be positioned further away from the front of the pilot's seat, Mike

Hi all, True to form this kit has already shown problems. The instructions indicate where the forward bulkhead and pilot's seat support should be located. The bulkhead locates on the hull bottom (effectively the cockpit floor). If the instructions are followed, it will result in the hull bottom not fitting into the fuselage as the bulkhead would be too far forwards. The pilot's seat support location is such that, when fitted, the pilot's seat is too far rearwards in the cockpit, so needs to be moved forwards on the seat support. This means the control column is then too close to the seat. The forward bulkhead is shown in the correct location. The pilot's foot boards assembly may need to be modified to move the control column forward and away from the pilot's seat Mike

Hi all, The beaching trolley and support trestles are done. The metal wheel rims were annealed to make them easier to bend and to give a better 'used' look. The wood beaching trolley and trestles were stained with 'AK Interactive' wood wash, then sealed with 'Alclad' Flat (ALC314). The top padding was represented with 'Tamiya' Rubber Black (XF85) and algae staining by water based ‘Derwent’ Inktense 24 pencils. Wear on the padding was from sponging 'Tamiya' weather set E (green) and dirt on the axle from 'Flory Models' dark dirt wash, Mike

Hi Sir DG, Yeah but that's what forums are all about I guess - constructive sharing amongst fellow modellers with similar interests . Besides I hate to do all the research then keep it to myself

Hi all, I thought I get back into the Macchi M.5 by hitting the beaching trolley and trestles first. The four tie rings on the corners of the beaching trolley are metal rings. The photo-etch parts supplied in the kit are flat and two-D. Therefore I cut away the 'rings' from the photo-etch parts and replaced them with rings of 0.5 mm diameter lead wire. I also modified the photo-etch tie ring holders to suit the replacement rings. Also in the photograph you can see protective padding, which I'll be adding to the trolley and trestles. Mike