sandbagger

Hi all, The radiator assembly done. This needs to be done now and added into the radiator housing and engine bottom fairing. Then I can start to work on the missing components at the forward end of the engine, such as magnetos, pipes etc, Mike

Thank you Sir D.G - I'm sure others, like me, really appreciate your comments. Hi all, The valve operation on the 'Isotta Fraschini' V4B engine is strange by comparison to other in-line engines of the period. Normally the inlet and exhaust valves on each cylinder would be operated from a single overhead 'camshaft'. However photographs and drawing for this engine show three separate shafts, each operating the valves for its cylinder bank. I can only assume the drive for the three shafts is located below them in the lower half of the overall housing, which is not represented on the kit part. The kit part, including the inlet manifolds seems to have been modelled more on that fitted, for example, on the Daimler-Mercedes in-line engines. I've modified the overhead operating shaft by cutting it into the three sections, removing the kit shaft and replacing it with 1.8 mm diameter tubing. This required some re-profiling of the operating shaft mountings at each end of the engine (radiator and propeller shaft ends), including 2 mm extension to fit to the end vertical drives. The tubes still need to be blocked at each end as the shafts were solid, not tubular. This has also shown up several other areas of the engine that require attention (so far): Both inlet manifolds and the two carburettors are incorrectly moulded - the manifolds too long and wrong shape - the carburettors are joined, but in fact were separately located. No spark plugs location. No water pump supplied in the kit. Mike

Hi all, Many thanks for your kind comments, Mike

Hi all, Many thanks for your kind comments, Mike

Hi Jeff, Lead wire in different diameters (0.2 to 1.0 mm diameter) from 'PlusModel'. Still available from various on-line retailers, Mike

Hi all, The rear edge of the cockpit rim was fitted with shoulder padding which is not in the kit. I represented this padding using 'Milliput' putty. Once it has fully cured I'll clean it up. The photo-etch supplied with the kit has part 19, which is intended to represent a curved support for the top of the pilot’s seat, although I could not find any references to this type of seat support. However photographs do show a fixture connecting the top, rear edge of the seat to the rear bulkhead of the cockpit. I represented this fixing using 0.5 plastic rod. The inlet and exhaust valves on the 'Isotta Fraschini' V4B engine are operated by an overhead shaft. The kit shaft is moulded as one shaft. The actual engine had three separate shafts. Also the shaft mounting to the engine do not align. I'll correct by cutting away the mountings from the shaft then drill out the three segments and insert brass tubes. Mike

Hi all, Here are the final reveal shots of the WW1 Austro-Hungarian Aviatik 'Berg' D.I fighter, operating with Flik 63J during 1918. 1:32 scale resin model from the Czech company 'HPH Models. Gaspatch turnbuckles, micro-tube and mono-filament used for the rigging. Laminated wood propeller from 'ProperPlane'. Figure from Grass mat for display base from 'Polak'. Paint used were 'Tamiya' acryics. Figure - ‘Copper State Models’ Austro-Hungarian flying ace (F32-032). My usual full and detailed PDF build log is available to download from gallery 2 on my site (link below). Mike

Hi all, Pilot's seat modified: Thickness of seat back reduced. Seat belt slots added. Seat back rolled edge added (0.4 mm lead wire. Mike

Hi all, There's still a lot of detail to do for the cockpit area, including thinning and roll edging the seat as well as adding the bulk head seat fixing at the top of the seat. Also the seat needs to have the access for the seat belts to pass through, as the kit instructions show them positioned over the sides of the seat, not through it, Mike

Hi Phil, Yes their resin kits are expensive and do have the odd problem. However, no-one else produces them in this scale so you 'pays your money and takes your choice', Mike.

Hi all, I've modified the pilot's foot boards and seat support to: Cut away the centre foot board and rear cross member on the hull floor. This allows the control column to be positioned more realistically, otherwise it would be too close to the seat. Added more lightening holes in the seat back, as per the official drawing. Added the 'V' shaped support (made from thick paper) below the seat. This also housed the control column torque tube, aileron control bell crank and aileron control pulley and control cables. Added nail head indentations to the foot board to cross member joints. Mike

Hi all, I've cut away the centre foot board and rear cross member on the hull floor. This allows the control column to be positioned more realistically, otherwise it would be too close to the seat. Also allows fitting of the 'V' shaped seat support. A notch was cut into the centre cross member on the hull floor to allow the torque bar of the control column to be adhered to the hull floor (better support) These changes will allow the control column to be positioned further away from the front of the pilot's seat, Mike

Hi all, True to form this kit has already shown problems. The instructions indicate where the forward bulkhead and pilot's seat support should be located. The bulkhead locates on the hull bottom (effectively the cockpit floor). If the instructions are followed, it will result in the hull bottom not fitting into the fuselage as the bulkhead would be too far forwards. The pilot's seat support location is such that, when fitted, the pilot's seat is too far rearwards in the cockpit, so needs to be moved forwards on the seat support. This means the control column is then too close to the seat. The forward bulkhead is shown in the correct location. The pilot's foot boards assembly may need to be modified to move the control column forward and away from the pilot's seat Mike

Hi all, The beaching trolley and support trestles are done. The metal wheel rims were annealed to make them easier to bend and to give a better 'used' look. The wood beaching trolley and trestles were stained with 'AK Interactive' wood wash, then sealed with 'Alclad' Flat (ALC314). The top padding was represented with 'Tamiya' Rubber Black (XF85) and algae staining by water based ‘Derwent’ Inktense 24 pencils. Wear on the padding was from sponging 'Tamiya' weather set E (green) and dirt on the axle from 'Flory Models' dark dirt wash, Mike

Hi Sir DG, Yeah but that's what forums are all about I guess - constructive sharing amongst fellow modellers with similar interests . Besides I hate to do all the research then keep it to myself

Hi all, I thought I get back into the Macchi M.5 by hitting the beaching trolley and trestles first. The four tie rings on the corners of the beaching trolley are metal rings. The photo-etch parts supplied in the kit are flat and two-D. Therefore I cut away the 'rings' from the photo-etch parts and replaced them with rings of 0.5 mm diameter lead wire. I also modified the photo-etch tie ring holders to suit the replacement rings. Also in the photograph you can see protective padding, which I'll be adding to the trolley and trestles. Mike

Hi all, As my build of the Austro-Hungarian Aviatik 'Berg' D.I is complete (apart from the display case), it's time for me to get back to the Macchi M.5 build. Thanks to input from other modellers I have more information that I'll need to include in this build, Mike

Hi all, The Aviatik 'Berg' D.1 is now complete, apart from being mounted on its display base (once the case arrives). Below are a few rough shots of the model and figure on its intended grass mat ('Polak’ Wild Meadow - 4705). I'll post up more and better completed photographs once its mounted in its display case. Many thanks to everyone for your comments, encouragement and patience during this build. Now it's back onto the Italian Macchi M.5 seaplane. Mike

Hi Tim, I'd reckon on around 500 (GBP) or more - around 650-700 (USD). Not a model to drop accidentally!! Mike

Hi all, The 'ProperPlane' laminated propeller (Knoller-Jaray type) is finished. Airbrushed with 'Alclad' semi-matte lacquer (312) mixed with 'Tamiya' Clear Orange (X26). Gloss coated with 'Alclad' Aqua Gloss (600), decals applied (LF Models set 3025). Finally airbrushed with 'Alclad' semi-matte lacquer (312) with a few drops of 'Tamiya' Hull Red (XF9). Bosses painted with 'Mr. Colour' Stainless Steel (213). Mike

Hi all, The rigging is now complete, so it's onto finishing the propeller and wheels, Mike

Hi all, The upper wing has now been fitted. Now it's onto completing the rigging for the flying, landing and cross brace wires. After that it'll be the propeller and wheels and that's it, apart from the display base, Mike

Hi all, Undercarriage cross bracing wires fitted, Mike

Hi all, The upper wing underside has been pre-rigged, ready for fitting. Combination of 0.12 mm mono-filament, 'Gaspatch' type A turnbuckles and 0.5 mm diameter brass tube. Mike

Hi Ernie, 'HPH Model are tricky to apply, as you no doubt know, for the following reasons: The printing method used is not a fine as other manufactured decals, especially small numbers and lettering. Usually decals are silk screen or laser printed. 'HPH Models' appear to be similar to those created with ink jet printing then coated to seal them. If so then that might account for their fragility. They are not 'cookie' cut' and are part of the overall carrier on the decal sheets. Therefore they need to be carefully cut out from the decal sheet. The backing sheets are thick when compared to other manufactured decals, such as 'Cartograph'. This means they need to be soaked for a bit longer than expected in order to release the decal from the backing sheet, otherwise they can be damaged as they are slid off onto the model surface. A sharp blade is needed to cut out the decals and the cut shouldn't be too close to the decal edges, otherwise the decal edge can lift from the backing sheet. The surface onto which the decal is to be applied should be smooth and glossy - I use 'Alclad' Aqua Gloss (ALC-600), which airbrushes well and dries quickly. The decals themselves are thin and semi-transparent, similar to 'Aviattic' decals and so pre-shading can be applied if desired. Be careful to avoid decal 'fold over' when removing them from the backing sheet. After application, 'MicroSol' to conform them to the surface and seal them with your sealer of choice to protect them from further handling or when applying post-application weathering. I use 'Alclad' Light Sheen (ALC-311) or Semi-Matte (ALC-312) lacquers. Apart from that they're great , Mike