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Fidd88

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  1. Sorry Dennis, I should have thought, if you want a scaled 3d printed version of these, I can rescale mine to 1/32, or, prefereably, you could let me know the precise length of the existing part, or let me have it as a pattern. I'd need to thicken my drawings, the current one it is 1mm wall-thickness, which scaled down would become 0.14mm! But that wouldn't take long to do. If you know the distance between the outer edges, I could have a go at printing the sight bar and gunsight. As I lack a printer, the minimum charge by the commercial company I use is £40 and I'd need to charge a little for time spent adjusting the drawings, especially of the sight, into a printable configuration. But it is possible. I'd suggest doing 4-6 of the chordal brace stiffeners as they are likely are incorrect on the FN50 mid-upper as well? This wouldn't affect the price of £40 plus postage. In the ordinary way I'd just do them at the same time as I was producing parts, and let you have them free, but I've no need for parts currently... If you really wanted to go mad, I could see if it's possible to rescale and rework my drawings to produce a greatly simplified turret where the sighting bar still remains parallel to the guns when moved! I'd say it's just about possible with some difficulty, and would be pretty fragile... The printing costs would be tiny, but the time spent adjusting the design to work in 1/32 would be fairly considerable. I hope in time to rework all my turret drawings into a single design capable of being printed in any scale and built, but that's years away. Scratch-building replacements may well be a better proposition!
  2. Hi Dennis, The "triangular" parts you mention are known as "chordal brace stiffeners", and I feel your pain regarding these, as they're spectacularly hard to construct in CAD. I think I drew mine over 40 times, and printed 3 different versions - and they're still not completely right! It might be easier to fabricate them from sheet material - perhaps litho-plate as the twist is fairly gentle. I'd suggest a 2 piece approach here as the curves of the channel underneath are different to the twisting of the larger upper piece... Incidentally, the plastic "sight bar" you show from the kit also had some issues. The thickness of the bar is about 30% thicker than it should be, and the arms coming down to the sight are too wide as viewed from gunner's perspective. Finally, you might want to look into the correct curvatures of the ammunition feeds on the FN5, as they should emerge from the front edge of the tanks in the sponsons at an angle of 45 degrees upwards before gradually curving upwards and twisting through 90 degrees. Bullets were in the tanks "nose inwards" so simple inspection should determine if the latter curve is correct. Many thanks for posting the CAD render of the FN20/FN120.
  3. Not much been happening lately, beyond getting a modeling mate over who had a good selection of oil-paints, pastels and pigments, and more importantly the knowledge to apply them. I'd used quite a lot of Alclad "dirt and grime" around areas of the internal turret area which would have been very hard to clean and which probably had some hydraulic-fluid attracting every bit of dust going! We found that methylated spirit, with a drop of washing-up liquid in it, brushed onto the Alclad-painted SLS nylon proved the perfect thing to cause the subsequently applied mixture of water and black/grey pigments to spread well over the area, and then dabbed it back with a little absorbent paper. In concert with the previously applied 'dirt and grime' I think this worked well. A week or so #1 daughter and I exhibited the turrets at the LMA's Gaydon show, and were very busy from circa 10:30am until 4pm when it stopped. The highlight for me was a young Polish lad of about 5, who operated the syringes powering the elevation of the guns grinning all the while. He then asked about the Polish language 'cautions' on the turret doors, and his father explained about Poles flying these aircraft in the wartime RAF, and the lad was completely 'made-up' on digesting this. It was fun to see this education and enthusiasm! As my CNC router still has some as yet undiagnosed fault, I've been trying to find someone local who can cut out the 610mm by 610mm MDF panels to make the initial plug for the mould to vacuum-form the front windows. Things should proceed apace on making the moulds and thence the windows once this occurs. The dirtied webbing straps Chordal brace stiffener with a little muck Front right side, hard to clean for "erks". Central console and supporting metal structure now much toned down with dirt and grime Left-hand ram, ditto general view Front left baffle
  4. Are you going to have a go at motorising this? Faulhaber make some very nice, absolutely tiny electric motors, which can have reduction gear-boxes attached, which are likely small enough to the concealed within the main mast. (6mm OD x circa 20mm length, with reduction gearbox attached). They're pretty pricey, but I've a spare one I could let you have at half-price if you're interested. You'd need to fabricate some form of universal joint I would think, to take the vertical orientation of the motor to the inclined disc of the rotor.....
  5. I think the 2nd photo is probably shadow rather than a green, in this instance. The really interesting colour in that picture is that of the guns, I think. I've never seen that before.
  6. Hi Dennis, regarding internal turret colour-schemes. Very early FN turrets were bare metal interiors, but before night-bombing became the norm, they were sometimes painted internally a green-grey, however this seems to be a hit and miss affair, as one can often find single aircraft with turrets in both schemes. I don't think the grey-green scheme lasted long in '41. Soon after night bombing commenced an all black scheme became the standard, however, turrets in both bare-metal and grey-green can occasionally be seen long after the schemes were officially superceded. Additionally it's often hard to distinguish the two from black and white pictures. My guess is that if turret output was being outstripped by demand, they simply omitted painting them before they left the factory, and such supplies of the grey-green paint as still existed when the official scheme went to all black were used until expended, with squadrons dealing with unpainted interiors if time permitted.
  7. Glad to be of help. Of course, there are other diorama possibilities for showing off the internal structures, such as having a brewed-up tank with the turret laying beside the hull, or as a factory-floor diorama with the tank 'under construction' - a diorama I've never seen done, oddly.
  8. You know seeing this interior detail, makes me wonder if the model turret should be removable, or perhaps held away by a crane or winched up.... Incidentally, regarding the nose-heavy gun, as an alternative to blutak above the breech to limit depression of the metal gun tube, you might consider counter-weighting it by drilling holes into the breach from the loading end and filling them with lead-shot and PVA or similar, once correctly counter-weighted, the holes can be filled and painted over....
  9. Not that I'm at all what you might call a 'David Lean', when making videos, nor indeed am I much of a fan of modern social media (I neither "face-book" nor "twit", "text" nor "selfie") but making and uploading video's is a complete doddle, and takes no time at all once you've figured out the first one. I don't think the state of your bench is a bad thing - for people to see the tools you have to hand, and the way you clamp the work, or polish parts or offer parts for fit is all absolute gold-dust to those who wish to attempt to emulate you. All I do really is to natter about this or that on my models and draw attention to things that worked well, things that didn't, (always useful to some), and what's left to take care of. I use my wife's digital stills camera in video mode, in macro zoom mode, and then take the file off the cameras SD card and into a folder on my pc from where it's uploaded to youtube. Easy as pie. If you'd like to take and upload a test video, pm me and I'll walk you through it on the telephone, if you like. Your techniques and ability are really extraordinary, and tutorials will I think, be very popular and useful to modellers.
  10. Just beautiful. Thanks for the advice on PETG. My turrets really require two or three different moulds, one for the front panels, which go to 60 degrees either side of straight ahead, and one for the "glazing" that goes from those points aftwards as far as opaque 'quarter-panels' (as I call 'em) which lie either side of the doors. These are simply mirror-images of each other, so can be done on 1 mould and cut else 2 moulds. The current plan is to cut MDF layers in the manner of contour lines, fill the gaps with resin and micro-balloons, sand back and glass with very light fibre-glass, re-sand and seal. Then female moulds can be made and those then casted with alloy-resin (incompressible when hard), and then that forms the mould over which the panels are vacuum-formed. As I intend using either 1mm or 0.5mm acrylic, your method is looking an attractive alternative! I'm really looking forward to seeing your model finished!
  11. LOL. I ought to have "twigged" that, I fitted brass bracing parts to the cupola of my turrets to help them resist aerodynamic loads - made via photo-etching. 'Scuse me lads, having another "senior moment"!
  12. Sorry about the confusion, Okay, what I think we're looking at in the lanc pic above is a later iteration, and I think it looks like this, possibly with short joining stretches to keep the runs parallel and correctly spaced. Without getting a good look at the actual turret I can't be sure, but knowing how the guns have their belts drawn up the chutes with the arming wire, it's hard to see how this could be achieved without the side facing the gunner being open to view. Again I've thickened the chutes to make them printable.
  13. LOL. What an idjit I am, I've only just noticed that the one fitted to the lanc above are different to mine, in that the open edge of the feed is on the outboard edge towards the top, which has completely weirded me out. This would mean the rounds were not visible to the gunner as viewed from his seat, and in turn would make it much much harder to feed the rounds from the tanks to the guns when initially loading. This has me completely foxed now. I took the design of mine from an RAF instructional film. I'll look into this further and get back to you.
  14. Wingco57, I've done a "fast and dirty" rework the CAD drawing of chutes I know to be correct for the FN5, and as far as I can tell they're correct for the FN5a as fitted to your Manchester. The rework has consisted of making them much "thicker" in terms of the material so it has half a chance of being printable in Nylon at your scale. Or you can just use them for reference to scratch-build by other means, if indeed you wish to. Rescaling them to match the scale of your model is a moments work. What would help in this regard is to know what the height of them is, using the top of the ammunition tanks as the bottom reference, and the top of the chute as the other. I can then rescale it, so they will definitely appear the correct size to yours. As I often am submitting stuff for printing, I could 6 or so of these and just pop them in the post - if you wish. Please don't feel compelled to do so! Anyway, here's a picture of the thickened chutes left and right-handed, I figure you might need 3 or so pairs, assuming the front and mid-upper turrets have the same problem, plus a couple spare. If memory serves, the Manchester has an FN4 or FN4a In the rear, and I'm not familiar with the chutes in that turret. Drop me a pm if you're interested in having these done?
  15. The thing about watching Peter's work on the model, I feel, is that you start to look at both the model, and the full-size aircraft in a very different way to normal. Instead of the just the form of it, you start to see all the tiny features that Peter noticed and replicated, and then check for their presence on the aircraft and then vice versa. Ordinarily I'd never have noticed what I take to be stiffeners or some early form of countering wake-vortices (?) in the trailing edge of the outer-wing, just forward of the aileron, on the P51. Looking at the model has made me realise what a clever design the P51 is from an production engineering design too. Essentially it's a "Spitfire", redesigned for speed and endurance, but it also largely does away with the plethora of hard-to-fabricate compound curvatures, or greatly reduces the degree thereof. I'd be willing to bet that the wing was similarly much easier to build on the P51 (on the full-size aircraft) relative to the Spit? Peter, using your "boiling water" method, how large a piece of acrylic do you think can be formed over a plug? Can you tell us a bit more about that process? A real joy to watch, I was utterly captivated seeing the metal framed windows coming together!
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