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Fidd88

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About Fidd88

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  1. Hi chaps. What with Covid, and it's effect on lots of companies, I'm struggling a bit to make progress at the moment. The rivet tool company I'm working with are having difficulties determining the tool-head to use to apply these very small (2mm diameter) pop-rivets. Until the tool-heads size is known, I can't do the CAD to finalise the extruded alloy profile or the sheer and gusset fittings, or the inserts needed to curve the extrusions. So, instead, I've been having a clear-out and reorganisation in the workshop to gain more space to the right of the bench, which I'll need for operating
  2. I'm unable to work these days - legacy of an old car-accident, so have decided to see if anyone wants one of these models, and is prepared to pay to have one built. To that end, I've put "commissioning one" onto Ebay to see if there's any interest. As they take 5-8 months to build and paint, and thousands of pounds to print all the parts to the required finish and dimensional accuracy, these are far from a cheap model to build. If I get a lot of interest I may look into getting parts injection-moulded, which would bring the per unit cost down, but raise the initial tooling costs. The item
  3. Thanks for posting those, quite comforting to know he's not perfect! Nice job capturing it correctly in the model!
  4. I'll try and answer this again. Lets say our fuselage was cylindrical, and there are no longerons to complicate matters. If we cut through the cylinder at 45 degrees, we end up with the cut face of the solid-cylinder being an ellipse. So, if we make a solid flat ellipse of the same size, and wind a soft-metal shape around that ellipse, when the resultant elliptical alloy channel is fitted at the correct 45 degree angle, the internal space will be circular again as viewed from the end of the cylinder. The same principle holds true if our cylinder tapers, only now the start-point of the cha
  5. Interesting geometry on those doors. I've never seen a picture of one with the doors open, but I'd have expected the fully-open door position to be the lowest point of the door to be inline with the hinge-line - where it couldn't exert any further force on your hand if it were trapped between the door and items on the outside of the vehicle. A "stop" is also usually fitted to prevent the door or hatch opening beyond that point. As an ex-"tankie" you tend to value little design features like this, as the number of ways you can lose/crush/cut-off fingers/feet and heads on any armoured-vehicle a
  6. Well I'm just back from the rivet-gun shop (more of a factory really) and the absolutely brilliant news is that the tool will fit on the gaps I have to work within on the current dimensions. They even gave me a tool nose to take home so I can draw it up in CAD and play around with it. That means a lot less work potentially! - And building stuff sooner! Loud cheers!
  7. It's nothing but compound curves! The formers are the shape of the path of the geodetic, not the fuselage as measured around say a bulkhead. But when installed, they will naturally create the shape of the fuselage. So one half of the formed shape covers the path as it goes upwards and backwards at 45 degrees from the longeron to which it is bolted, and then the other half describes the path from the midline backwards and downwards towards the longeron on the other side. The result should - If I've not bollocksed-up the theory, describe the shape of a geodetic passing from one side to the othe
  8. Such news at there is: I'm now at the phase of preparing to start metalwork, to fabricate the curved geodetic channels required to build the fuselage, wings and tail, and know how I'm going to go about it. The geodetic channel will be extruded in it's required cross-section, with a wall-thickness of 0.8mm (31 thou"). When it comes to bending it, a steel cable with a heavy weight on it will cause it to bend as the extruded tube is bent around a wooden former by being "wound" onto it, the steel cable causing it to conform thereto. Some 300 different formers being required just for the fusel
  9. No problem. Even if you don't use it on this model, a knowledge of how the components look like, and how the different types of rams operate. It might spark an idea for a project? I found the link to the film I made as I was assembling the turret rams, which shews the different parts.
  10. Honestly, pneumatics are a complete doddle. You've single-acting - one way - and double acting - two way. The first may likely of no use to you. Go to ocaire.com, find a suitable miniature (probably double-acting) ram, and buy some large syringes, and some pneumatic line (black 2mm PVC tube iirc), and start "playing". Connecting them up is simplicity itself, pvc put metal collet on tube, press tube into joint fitting, press collet back up tube and onto joint-fitting. Connect other end of tube to large syringe with non-sharp needle - (usually a pink plastic fitting with needle) and your done. I
  11. I'm glad to have been of help, Good luck with the bulldozer, I look forward to seeing it. How big is it? If the model is huge, you could look into pneumatic (air powered) rams for the bulldozer and digger-bucket on the back. Movement on a model is really striking if it's doable, and it's a lot of fun to do. Put on a diorama base, the pneumatic lines could be concealed in the base and just brought out to connect the syringes to start making things move,,,, Provided the model is big enough, the main rams for the dozer blade look emminently achievable. On my turrets I 3d printed a thin cover
  12. That's quite a beast! One thing I forgot to mention, is a peculiarity of how SLA works. If you've a "blocky" part, more than about 6mm (1/4") in 2 or more dimensions, then when it's printed, the inside of the part is left unfused - a powder. When I printed such parts I left - or made - a drain-hole in the part so that the powder could largely be tapped out. This has implications if you want to bolt through the part, when drawn, you need to put the cylinder of fused material around the bolt-hole, so that the bolt has something to pull against. The reason for this is that the fused exterior rema
  13. My worst moment arose out of a tiny change I made to the ammo chutes - and then "saved" - to put some tell-tale holes in the feed-chutes, which I'd seen on a wartime photograph. I'd made and painted hundreds of individual but linkable scale .303 rounds, which could be assembled and glued into position in said feed-chute. Unfortunately, I'd forgotten that was well as turning, these chutes also twisted. This would not have been a problem, but for the fact that the rounds only looked correct as belts from one side, so the twist now put the "wrong" side visible in the tell-tale windows. As the rou
  14. It's a very interesting idea, very inventive. My only concern would what happens if any moisture is trapped during the wrapping-process, which might ultimately promote corrosion. From a purist point of view, I'd prefer to the see the airframe as-is, not done up like a "Piccadilly Commando" to make her, er, "appear younger than she is"! But that's just me. Very clever though.
  15. Hi Jeff, Interesting question. I think the best bet is to try it on a test-part with a high surface to volume ratio - ie pancake shaped, as if there is a problem with warping or swelling, or it becoming fragile, it will occur most readily on such a part. I used enamel paints extensively on my turrets, which were printed in SLA Nylon, and, 2-3 years on, there's no observable problems. Again, as recommended upthread, I used a primer and sanded back with a very fine grade of wet and dry, and the lightest of touches, so as not to cause the nylon to "go hairy", as it will if one is ham-fisted
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