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JeffH

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About JeffH

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    LSM Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Ottawa, Ontario
  1. I just got this bad boy. Looks up to par with the 2 other Takoms I have (Panther mid, King Tiger), But I did notice shells are separate from the racks...yay!
  2. You can sleep in a car but you can't drive a house
  3. Sounds interesting. I might be tempted to try one of the 3 HpH kits in the stash
  4. Thanks for the explanation Paul So we're all assuming that the pour stub (sheet in this case) is extra material. The sheet is so thin I was wondering if maybe HpH took its size into account for the overall length of the part. If the 1 mm (or less) of material was not removed and we just trimmed around the outer edge as if it was flash on an injection-molded part would the overall fit of these parts be affected. Just wondering out loud. I have 3 of the kits in the stash (Walrus, 410, Fw189) and every time I look at these wafers I go 'hmmmm'
  5. Yes...I'm curious about that too
  6. I put a scan up at http://www.jgherrick.com/public/ESCI_BMWR75_Instructions.PDF It's a long weirdly sized double-sided page and I messed up some of the ordering of the sections but it's all there.
  7. I have the kit with instructions. PM me your email and I'll get a scan out to when I have a chance
  8. Walrus...I have one and would love to see an in-progress pave the way
  9. Mike, ISO is only one part of the holy trinity of exposure. The other 2 pieces are shutter speed and aperture. You can arrive at the same exposure by varying the combinations of the individual elements. Which element you vary depends on what effect you're looking for and the light conditions that are thrown at you. ISO - you've already found cranking it higher allows you to use a faster shutter speed when there is less light Shutter Speed - If you're not using a tripod you want to shoot at 1/60th second or faster (faster if say your subject is moving) Aperture - Along with its role
  10. Dear Abby What's a good mixture for panzer grey using RLM colours?
  11. Welcome Ralph Another vote for Tamiya Extra Thin. It's very easy to work with...just press the parts together and then dip the brush and blot the glue on to the joint. Capillary action will suck the glue right along the joint line and then the chemistry takes over to melt the plastic to create a firm bond. This stuff is da bomb. Just be careful where your fingers are in relation to the joint. When the glue runs around it's easier to get your fingers stuck in it (and leave prints on the piece) than with regular tube glue. You sometimes have to use different glues for different m
  12. Great review! Re: the elephant/super glue thing, just google "super glue elephant". It's said that you can glue a baby elephant's head to the ceiling with just a one square inch patch of it (animal rights issues notwithstanding)
  13. I have the Dragon SdKfz 10/40 with the decals saying 'unknown unit 1942/1943'. Can I enter it in the GB?
  14. Looks really great so far! When I do mine I will use RLM70 for the interior...as we all know it's the exact same color as the German planes that bombed Pearl Harbor (Animal House FTW! )
  15. Which markings are going on the Camel? I built Barker's ship when I was 12 in 72....but that was when I was only interested in equipment and not the stories of the great men that flew them. I only found out tonight that William Barker was the highest decorated Commonwealth person ever. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/William_George_Barker For hockey fans (I must be the only Canadian that isn't) he was also the first President of the Toronto Maple Leafs
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