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JeffH

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About JeffH

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    Ottawa, Ontario
  1. Sounds interesting. I might be tempted to try one of the 3 HpH kits in the stash
  2. Thanks for the explanation Paul So we're all assuming that the pour stub (sheet in this case) is extra material. The sheet is so thin I was wondering if maybe HpH took its size into account for the overall length of the part. If the 1 mm (or less) of material was not removed and we just trimmed around the outer edge as if it was flash on an injection-molded part would the overall fit of these parts be affected. Just wondering out loud. I have 3 of the kits in the stash (Walrus, 410, Fw189) and every time I look at these wafers I go 'hmmmm'
  3. Yes...I'm curious about that too
  4. I put a scan up at http://www.jgherrick.com/public/ESCI_BMWR75_Instructions.PDF It's a long weirdly sized double-sided page and I messed up some of the ordering of the sections but it's all there.
  5. I have the kit with instructions. PM me your email and I'll get a scan out to when I have a chance
  6. Walrus...I have one and would love to see an in-progress pave the way
  7. Mike, ISO is only one part of the holy trinity of exposure. The other 2 pieces are shutter speed and aperture. You can arrive at the same exposure by varying the combinations of the individual elements. Which element you vary depends on what effect you're looking for and the light conditions that are thrown at you. ISO - you've already found cranking it higher allows you to use a faster shutter speed when there is less light Shutter Speed - If you're not using a tripod you want to shoot at 1/60th second or faster (faster if say your subject is moving) Aperture - Along with its role in controlling exposure controls 'depth-of-field'; the amount of the subject area that is in focus. Larger apertures (lower f-stops like f1.8) blur parts of the foreground and background. Smaller apertures (higher f-stops like f16, f22) keep the entire range in focus. So really you can change any or all three and get the same _exposure_ but higher ISO's translate to noise on the sensor and end up producing grainier images especially when scaled up to larger size or cropped tightly in a photo editor. For modeling purposes we have the following constraints: - Our subjects aren't moving so shutter speed only matters if you're trying to hold the camera by hand - We want to see crisp focus so we want smaller aperture values (higher f-stop numbers like f16, f22) - We want to be able to crop closely to see detail so lower ISO values are needed (I like to use 200) Now if you don't have a tripod and you set ISO 200, f22 and 1/60 shutter speed you will probably find you have a very dark photo. Such is the beast. In order to get a proper exposure you either need to add more light or change one of the variables. If you can't add more light we want to keep f22 and ISO 200 so the only piece left to us is the shutter speed. You need to find the shutter speed that will render a properly exposed image given the available light, ISO200 and f22. If you have a hand-held light meter it will tell you. Most people don't have a light meter but all DSLR's come with one when you're in manual mode. When you look thru the viewfinder you will see a scale on the bottom of the screen like the following + - - - - 0 - - - - _ When you half-press the shutter button in manual mode the camera will read the available light and tell you whether you're going to over-expose (bars on the plus side of zero) or under-expose (bars on the negative side) Now all you need to do is change the shutter speed until all the bars are gone and the meter is right on Zero. When you do this you're going to find the shutter speed the camera wants to use is something like 3 or 4 seconds. There's no way you can hold the camera for that long and not make small movements that end up causing your photo to blur. This is why a tripod is pretty much mandatory. The other trick once the camera is on the tripod is to use the timer function on the camera. This will get rid of the small movement you create when you press the shutter Hopefully you have a DSLR and all of the above might be of some use to you. If you just have a point and shoot then you will find all of the above still applies but not all point and shoots have a built-in light meter that can help you arrive at the proper shutter speed.
  8. Dear Abby What's a good mixture for panzer grey using RLM colours?
  9. Welcome Ralph Another vote for Tamiya Extra Thin. It's very easy to work with...just press the parts together and then dip the brush and blot the glue on to the joint. Capillary action will suck the glue right along the joint line and then the chemistry takes over to melt the plastic to create a firm bond. This stuff is da bomb. Just be careful where your fingers are in relation to the joint. When the glue runs around it's easier to get your fingers stuck in it (and leave prints on the piece) than with regular tube glue. You sometimes have to use different glues for different media. I like white glue or watch crystal cement to stick clear parts on since the clear part can't be 'fogged'. Super glue (Cyanoacrylate - CA) is your best bet for sticking photo-etch parts to plastic.
  10. Great review! Re: the elephant/super glue thing, just google "super glue elephant". It's said that you can glue a baby elephant's head to the ceiling with just a one square inch patch of it (animal rights issues notwithstanding)
  11. I have the Dragon SdKfz 10/40 with the decals saying 'unknown unit 1942/1943'. Can I enter it in the GB?
  12. Looks really great so far! When I do mine I will use RLM70 for the interior...as we all know it's the exact same color as the German planes that bombed Pearl Harbor (Animal House FTW! )
  13. Which markings are going on the Camel? I built Barker's ship when I was 12 in 72....but that was when I was only interested in equipment and not the stories of the great men that flew them. I only found out tonight that William Barker was the highest decorated Commonwealth person ever. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/William_George_Barker For hockey fans (I must be the only Canadian that isn't) he was also the first President of the Toronto Maple Leafs
  14. when I was doing mini-computer (WTF are those?) system management 25 years ago I had a sign that said A Clean Desk is a sign of a sick mind
  15. Yikes...I haven't updated this in a while....too busy drooling over the resin in the HpH Walrus kit I guess I finally got around to washing and dry-brushing some of the many parts lying about and decided since the wings are almost ready to go together that it was time to build the Eduard flap set. This is a fairly high Wrknmbr'ed machine and may have likely sported wooden flaps....but I have the PE and I'm going to use it Building the flaps was greatly aided by the use of my Mission Models Etch-Mate I don't always use it for small bends but it comes in handy for the longer bends like in the flap set I also find the Xuron PE shears absolutely indispensable now that I have them I used to just use a #11 but always had trouble with slight bending at the cut and left-over metal. These things are precise and create a sharp/flat cut The other new tool I'm just starting to use is Radu Brinzan's super-glue applicator I used to use a tooth-pick in a pin-vise but these give a lot more control for small precise amounts of CA Anyway...still fiddling with the lower to upper flap attachment....it's a little tricky the way Eduard places the hinges points and I'm a bit ham-fisted. Can't blame it on lack of tools though lol Here's another better shot of the (mostly) completed flaps Thanks for looking in