JeffH

I just got this bad boy. Looks up to par with the 2 other Takoms I have (Panther mid, King Tiger), But I did notice shells are separate from the racks...yay!

You can sleep in a car but you can't drive a house

Sounds interesting. I might be tempted to try one of the 3 HpH kits in the stash

Thanks for the explanation Paul So we're all assuming that the pour stub (sheet in this case) is extra material. The sheet is so thin I was wondering if maybe HpH took its size into account for the overall length of the part. If the 1 mm (or less) of material was not removed and we just trimmed around the outer edge as if it was flash on an injection-molded part would the overall fit of these parts be affected. Just wondering out loud. I have 3 of the kits in the stash (Walrus, 410, Fw189) and every time I look at these wafers I go 'hmmmm'

Yes...I'm curious about that too

I put a scan up at http://www.jgherrick.com/public/ESCI_BMWR75_Instructions.PDF It's a long weirdly sized double-sided page and I messed up some of the ordering of the sections but it's all there.

I have the kit with instructions. PM me your email and I'll get a scan out to when I have a chance

Walrus...I have one and would love to see an in-progress pave the way

Mike, ISO is only one part of the holy trinity of exposure. The other 2 pieces are shutter speed and aperture. You can arrive at the same exposure by varying the combinations of the individual elements. Which element you vary depends on what effect you're looking for and the light conditions that are thrown at you. ISO - you've already found cranking it higher allows you to use a faster shutter speed when there is less light Shutter Speed - If you're not using a tripod you want to shoot at 1/60th second or faster (faster if say your subject is moving) Aperture - Along with its role in controlling exposure controls 'depth-of-field'; the amount of the subject area that is in focus. Larger apertures (lower f-stops like f1.8) blur parts of the foreground and background. Smaller apertures (higher f-stops like f16, f22) keep the entire range in focus. So really you can change any or all three and get the same _exposure_ but higher ISO's translate to noise on the sensor and end up producing grainier images especially when scaled up to larger size or cropped tightly in a photo editor. For modeling purposes we have the following constraints: - Our subjects aren't moving so shutter speed only matters if you're trying to hold the camera by hand - We want to see crisp focus so we want smaller aperture values (higher f-stop numbers like f16, f22) - We want to be able to crop closely to see detail so lower ISO values are needed (I like to use 200) Now if you don't have a tripod and you set ISO 200, f22 and 1/60 shutter speed you will probably find you have a very dark photo. Such is the beast. In order to get a proper exposure you either need to add more light or change one of the variables. If you can't add more light we want to keep f22 and ISO 200 so the only piece left to us is the shutter speed. You need to find the shutter speed that will render a properly exposed image given the available light, ISO200 and f22. If you have a hand-held light meter it will tell you. Most people don't have a light meter but all DSLR's come with one when you're in manual mode. When you look thru the viewfinder you will see a scale on the bottom of the screen like the following + - - - - 0 - - - - _ When you half-press the shutter button in manual mode the camera will read the available light and tell you whether you're going to over-expose (bars on the plus side of zero) or under-expose (bars on the negative side) Now all you need to do is change the shutter speed until all the bars are gone and the meter is right on Zero. When you do this you're going to find the shutter speed the camera wants to use is something like 3 or 4 seconds. There's no way you can hold the camera for that long and not make small movements that end up causing your photo to blur. This is why a tripod is pretty much mandatory. The other trick once the camera is on the tripod is to use the timer function on the camera. This will get rid of the small movement you create when you press the shutter Hopefully you have a DSLR and all of the above might be of some use to you. If you just have a point and shoot then you will find all of the above still applies but not all point and shoots have a built-in light meter that can help you arrive at the proper shutter speed.

Welcome Ralph Another vote for Tamiya Extra Thin. It's very easy to work with...just press the parts together and then dip the brush and blot the glue on to the joint. Capillary action will suck the glue right along the joint line and then the chemistry takes over to melt the plastic to create a firm bond. This stuff is da bomb. Just be careful where your fingers are in relation to the joint. When the glue runs around it's easier to get your fingers stuck in it (and leave prints on the piece) than with regular tube glue. You sometimes have to use different glues for different media. I like white glue or watch crystal cement to stick clear parts on since the clear part can't be 'fogged'. Super glue (Cyanoacrylate - CA) is your best bet for sticking photo-etch parts to plastic.

Great review! Re: the elephant/super glue thing, just google "super glue elephant". It's said that you can glue a baby elephant's head to the ceiling with just a one square inch patch of it (animal rights issues notwithstanding)

Which markings are going on the Camel? I built Barker's ship when I was 12 in 72....but that was when I was only interested in equipment and not the stories of the great men that flew them. I only found out tonight that William Barker was the highest decorated Commonwealth person ever. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/William_George_Barker For hockey fans (I must be the only Canadian that isn't) he was also the first President of the Toronto Maple Leafs

when I was doing mini-computer (WTF are those?) system management 25 years ago I had a sign that said A Clean Desk is a sign of a sick mind

The forum I linked the pic from mentioned the movie. I've seen it so many times and remembered the Heinkels but didn't remember any of these things. Were they not used at all or ended up on the cutting room floor? It was already a very long flick as it turned out. If they didn't even get filmed seems like a waste of somebody's imagination / efforts OB OT ...I got Radu's superglue applicators in the mail yesterday and one of them is being deployed to seal up the Eduard flap set going on my Dora. I received the Xuron PE shears a couple weeks back and OMG they are so great for exact trimming of PE parts. highly recommended if you're looking for a cool tool to try out

One of these? (gotta love the internet)

KOO KOO KA CHOO...waiting on mine to cross the pond...can't wait!

Everybody's mentioned the most important steps but the other 2 things I do in particular with mottling is - start the airflow in the brush off the model (removes a chance of sputter/spatter) - start the movement of the brush tip before pulling back on the trigger and _never_ stop moving until the trigger is released (air stops) If you can get a hold of Floyd Werner's first DVD where he builds the Hasegawa G6 he has a good explanation. It's where I got my initial 'training' in the subject I have a Harder & Steenbeck Infinity brush as well as an Iwata HP-CS. For some reason I drift back to the Iwata when mottling because it's a slightly larger needle and is not so prone to clogging with dust in my dusty basement

lol ...actually thanks to Mike at LSP. I was having trouble because I'm used to just writing the BB code. He pointed out the light switch to me. The other thing it's great for is copying from one board to the other...turn it off on both and cut/paste the BB code and Bob's your Uncle

I could do a CyberHobby Emil or the Tamiya Birdcage....but I'd have to finish the Dora first. I only work on one at a time. How do these types of GB's work? I had thought of this idea a few years back but I figured the logistics would make it near impossible. That's assuming everybody follows the same sequence...but I assume you guys don't do that right? There's also the ZM Uhu I know Rog has it (what doesn't he have lol)

At the very top-left of the toolbar there's an icon that looks like a little light switch (well that's what it looks like after you're told that's what it is ) click it to activate the toolbar and expand images and smileys

Cool then my Esci 1/9 BMW R75 wouldn't be out of place Back on topic...cool little bike

I was used to just formatting my own IMG tags over on ARC all this time but when I tried to enter an IMG-wrapped PhotoBucket URL I got the message you mentioned. It seems the trick is to go into 'manual' mode ....that's the little light switch at the top-left of the tool bar. Click it and the rest of the toolbar goes grey. Then paste a direct PB link and manually add the IMG start and end tag around the URL. When you click the light switch again to go back into regular mode the image(s) will show up

Nice Dave. I've always loved the Panzer II...seems like the sports-car Panzer to me lol

Cool plane!!

Great job on both kits Paul. The overall 65 really stands out....what paint manufacturer is it?