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dr_gn

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dr_gn last won the day on July 22 2016

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About dr_gn

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  1. There are a few of them around - I think the 4-bladed prop ones have Pratt & Whitney engines fitted, the five bladed ones are the original Centaurus, (which are much rarer and more difficult to maintain engines).
  2. The Sea Fury is always a highlight of the show for me.
  3. Here are a few from Farnborough last Thursday:
  4. Here are a few from Flying Legends, Sunday:
  5. OK, so it turns out that since I last called in 2 weeks ago, my local hobby shop has closed down. The other UK supplier I use says the Vallejo RLM paints will be released individually in July, with UK stock available around September. So I've gone with Tamiya paints for this one. Thanks for the info.
  6. Ok thanks again, I'll try my LHS tomorrow.
  7. Great, thanks a lot. The designations are different from in your thread, are they the same paints or are they the "air" variants, or something else? Your model looks superb.
  8. Guys, I'm going to build an FW190, with the RLM 74, 75, 76 scheme (Grey Violet, Grey Green, Light Blue). I've seen some completed models using Vallejo RLM colours, and the contrast between the 74 and 75 was poor - they looked almost the same colour. I'd like a bit more contrast with mine. Can anyone tell me which paints - preferably from the Vallejo or Tamiya ranges - would do the job? Thanks!
  9. Very nice result - mottling looks great.
  10. Mr Paint

    Thanks for that, so I guess it's not some error in my technique or a faulty batch. I was using Tamiya Fine Surface Primer (White), which usually seems fine with most paint types. I suppose Mr. Paint is not really suitable for large areas - it could get very expensive based on my experience. I think becasue it's a satin rather than a matt finish on these particular coulours, it isn't helping with coverage.
  11. Mr Paint

    I got the Mr.Paint Basic White and RAL Flourescent Red yesterday. To be honest I'm not very impressed: Despite shaking the bottles for several minutes, and agitating them with a dropper before airbrushing, they are so thin that the white is like spraying milk. Pretty much no depth of pigment even over white primer. The red is spot-on in terms of colour, but again it would take litres of the stuff to finish my 1:12 scale F1 car. I've used about half a bottle per colour on a test piece, and they are still nowhere near solid colours. Also noticed this morning a slightly textured finish as if they have attacked the plastic in places. I've sent a message to them asking for advice, but I doubt I will use them again, certainly not on this MP4/6 model.
  12. Thanks for the kind words George. Overall it was a fun build and a big learning experience.
  13. Mr Paint

    Sorry for the thread bump! I've been struggling to find the correct colour for a 1:12 F1 car I'm building. It's a flourescent red (Marlboro McLaren red/orange). Someone on a car forum found the exact RAL code for this colour, so I put a request on Mr.Paint's Facebook page. Within about an hour, I got a reply that the paint would be available on around 2 weeks. Somewhat skeptical, I checked 2 weeks later and found the exact RAL flourescent red had been mixed and was available to buy. I've ordered 2 bottles, and some white, and am waiting for delivery. That's pretty impressive service! I hope the paint turns out to be just as good; I'm sure it will be.
  14. Got 1st in class at IPMS Huddersfield show today, very pleased with that!
  15. I used about 3 three full sheets on my woodgrain Mosquito in 1:72. There are so pictures here, and a WIP is linked in case your interested: http://forum.largescalemodeller.com/topic/4396-172-tamiya-dehavilland-mosquito-wood-finish/ This did include a hell of a lot of trial and error (mainly error) on my part, but once you get the hang of it it's fine. One problem I had was orientating the grain and slight colour differences on the sheet to get a symmetrical finish port:stbd. I did 'waste' a lot of decal sheet trying to do this. FWIW, after talking to Alex at UvdR, along with my own experience, my tips are: * Don't forget to use PVA solution to stick the decals - they don't have much adhesive left once put in water. * Don't use Microsol - it's not really necessary, and it caused blistering on mine. * Try to plan the finish so you don't have to mask over the decals. They will lift if given the slightest opportunity. * Use the lightest base colour you can - it's easy to darken the finish, but pretty much impossible to lighten the grain after application. * Cut the decal panels oversize slightly, and trim them with a new #11 blade along the panel demarcations. If you cut a decal too small, it's trash, cut it too big and you can save it. Old blades are useless for this...you will get through a lot of new blades! * Cut small hatches and panels in-situ - it's way easier than trying to do it via. a template. There are a lot of "woodgrain" Mosquito models out there with errors in the panel materials.The panel demarcations and orientations are in fact very difficult to figure out from photographs. I did a lot of research and I think it's a fair representation of reality, although not perfect by any means. I made an error on the crew door - it should be planked not solid. The other subtle detail is that for aircraft with an aerial mast, the circular (or oval) panel that the mast locates in on the fuselage I believe should be bakelite red, not aluminium. Good Luck with the project - really looking forward to seeing your progress.