General

Sure thing, Mike. I shouldn't have a problem lofting a fuselage in Inventor. Now, underwing stores in 1/32nd would be very popular. Fairly straightforward shapes. Notably, GBUs, AAQ range of FLIR pods, Sniper, ALQ pods and tanks. Full-time student? Are you studying 3D or is this unrelated and a pleasant distraction from study? I studied 2D/3D architectural and engineering design some years back. That's how I came by AutCAD. Regards

I would love to do replacement fuselage parts for the Revell 1/32 Mosquito. I have three kits stuck in stash for lack of TLC. I work in ACad and am familiar with Inventor. Long-term project has been to develop AM for the Revell Mozzie at an affordable level. There has to be a plethora of Revell kits still out there, with modellers hanging out for better parts. Instead of dumping it then shelling out $$ for new-tool releases. I have PE patterns (interior) for the 1/32 B Mk IV, XX, FB VI, PR (early) and NF II, XII, 30. Plus placards (interior & exterior) and instrument decals. A perfect complement would be bomber and FB fuselage options. And why stop at the fuselage? U/c bay inserts, bomb bay and gun nose anybody? There's a bit of work to rectify the kit fuz. The price of new resin/plastic would be far more attractive to Joe Kit-basher. You want projects? I have a list . . . Regards Rossky

I am impressed, Paulo. Seeing someone approach little "problems" the same way I do makes me smile. It is also nice to see on eof my favourite aircraft in large scale. Brigado!

Liking the subtelty, Mish. And good to see another Spit on the boards. Regards

Stupid crazy detailing. Love it. I use PPD and I agree. Their production is excellent. It's great they also have no minimum limit. Regaards

Talk to a fisherman who ties his own flies. I have a spool of dark copper wire at 0.012". Malleable but stiff enough to retain stiffness. Those wire ties for baggies are easy enough to prepare. Simply strip off the paper or plastic sheath. I also have miles of copper wire from stray lengths of cable found on roadsides. This all from a preoccupation with anything scrap-like that had a passable use in s/building. Regards

All of the above. Superb job. Love to see this degree of artistry on a kit. Ditto. It's a rare bird in LSM World. Makes for a refreshing change from injection kits. I doff chapeau, monsieur. Regards Ross

Ralph, that's plain, all-out bragging. A big ol' MiG-15 would look superb in the cabinet. ;-) Chris, you really must get back to those therapy sessions! My LHS told me he's expecting one for his shelves. How shall I resist . . .?? DON'T need another 1/24th. (No, really . . )

Man, hard choice there, Dave.

I love that -262, Doogs. lovely execution of the NMF.

Snap! Same-same, Rick. When I kick off another kit I'm fooling myself thinking I'll stick to what I've done already, keep it off the beaten path. Always hit a snag, find s/thing new I have figure out, or a particular part mocks me. That's how I roll. regards

http://www.amazon.com/Spectrum-Artists-Soft-Pastel-Sets/dp/B002YKOBF4 Started picking up these 2-3 per week, while in Australia. At almost $4 ea. I selected about 15 tints of the hundreds available. 80-grit paper gives a nicely fine powder.They're solid tint and great saturation. regards

"Best build"? Errrmmm, hasn't happened yet, I'm still building! :-) However, for giggles, I present, M'Lud, exhibit 'A'. Not in the LSM league, it is one in an occasional series of commissions. Tamiya 1/48 and truly a pearl of a kit. You can never have enough F4U-1s!

Pure artistry. I do enjoy a well-executed chipping effect. Thanks for explaining it. I've been struggling to achieve a realistic outcome with the hairspray tip. It didn't occur to me I could simply cut down the toothbrush. Another "D'oh!" moment. But it now paves the way. Regards

The rivetter's teeth are sharp and will snag anything softer than metal. I use my Trimaster scribing templates, or purpose-cut aliminium litho strip, as a guide. I then tape it securely to the part I'm scribing. The metal edge is high enough to afford a solid datum. Then I s-l-o-w-l-y and firmly run the rivetter along the edge of the guide. For better definition I will run the rivetter slowly back and forth a second time. The secret to rivetting is to apply three or four rivet marks for each section. Keep the rivetter in contact as you do this, however, to avoid breaking the rivet distances. This is the skill-set you develop. Hope it helps! Regards Ross