Umlaufmotor Posted November 24, 2013 Share Posted November 24, 2013 It was necessary in the early years of aviation, that oil and cooling water had to be changed frequently.The cooling water is drained every night from the cooling system and filled again on the next day.During the cold winter period, the cooling water was often drained between the flights to avoid freezing of the cooling system.For this reason we see on original photos very often drain cocks or oil shut-off valves.Here, for example, an oil shut-off valve at the Mercedes D.III/D.IIIa engine. Here, a drain cock on the wing radiator from the Pfalz D.IIIa is visible (left blue arrow). Also on the wing radiator of the Albatros DV / D.Va. These little things are most very nice details. They are also 32 times smaller very nice details on a model. Here at the WNW Mercedes D.III / D.IIIa engine ............ ........................and here on the WNW Pfalz D.IIIa But how can be represented this thing in 1/32 scale? The answer is:With a bit of brass tube, some copper wire, some plastic rod, a steady hand and lots of patience. We grab the cooler the albatross as a test object.First, a 0.5 mm hole is drilled in the correct place on the radiator. A small Resin screw is glued in this hole . In this screw we drill a hole with a 0.3 mm drill. We glued a brass tube with 0.3 mm outer diameter in this hole. Now, we need a plastic rod with 0.5 mm diameter.We drilled a 0.3 mm hole in this rod (yellow arrow) and from the side a 0.2 mm hole (orange arrow). Now, we cut the plastic rod to a length of about 1.5 mm and placed it onto the brass tube. We manufacture the handle of the drain cock from 0.2 mm copper wire .Bend in the 90 ° angle and squeeze it with flat pliers. Cut the copper wire in the correct length (max. approx 1mm!) and glue.The lever down means the drain cock is closed. The lever positioned transversely means the drain cock is open. The drain valve is painted with Mr. Metal Color "Brass", the handle remains in its original color (copper). .............that's all Servus Bertl 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators JeroenPeters Posted November 24, 2013 Administrators Share Posted November 24, 2013 Oh man.... What a great instruction! And here I am.. happy when I get all the parts indicated in the instructions are added! Thanx again for sharing your ART with us! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Fran Posted November 24, 2013 Administrators Share Posted November 24, 2013 Great tutorial Bertl!! Thanks so much for sharing! Francisco 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GUY5Y Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 Oh boy...I love this site and you maestros. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daywalker Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 The amazing tutorials keep coming, loving it! Thanks again for sharing your master class building tips with us. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonathanReed Posted December 20, 2013 Share Posted December 20, 2013 Sweet! I was looking at my model this morning wondering how I could make this look more realistic and this makes it, well not easy, but at least a direction that I can practice! Thank you Sir! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuckt5 Posted February 14, 2014 Share Posted February 14, 2014 Fantastic! Do you have any hints on how you drill through the side of the plastic rod while keeping the hole centered? I seem to have a tough time doing this without the drill leaning off to one side and ruining the plastic rod. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now