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Posted
8 hours ago, Nick70 said:

I will be also be doing the smaller rear wing - I looked at the bigger one and thought ‘he’ll no’ - far too fiddly for me!

Thank you Nick, I would like to know, which version your BT52b kit is, A or B and which rear wing decals are included? There is one main sheet for the white areas and sponsors and in my kit there is one smaller sheet for the rear wing of version A (large wing). I know from pictures of the MFH website, that two different small sheets exist, but mine had only one in the box.
The bigger wing looks like it would be sufficient for one or more planes, esthetically not my cup of tea.

Cheers Rob

  • Like 2
Posted

Hi Rob, I have the B version, which appears to only have the decals for the smaller wing! I hadn’t noticed until now. 
What on earth were MFH thinking? 
 

?cp7ofuj

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  • Thanks 1
Posted
53 minutes ago, Nick70 said:

Hi Rob, I have the B version, which appears to only have the decals for the smaller wing! I hadn’t noticed until now. 
What on earth were MFH thinking? 

Thanks for looking into your kit, Nick. Good for you, that you plan to build the smaller rear wing. I will use the decals for the large wing and cut away the red pinstripe. I thought about contacting MFH, but it would take some time to get replacements and I don´t want to wait.

Cheers Rob

  • Like 3
Posted

My ranting time continues. This time it´s about Number 5 colors, specially mixed for the Bt52. The blue is near enough but doesn´t fit 100% to the blue of the decals, but the white is way off. It has a warm tint and doesn´t fit to the decals cool white at all, like seen on the next picture.

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I carefully masked the blue side with the decals on (sweat) with de-tacked Kabuki tape and resprayed the white, this time with Number 5 MP4 white. Much better and luckily the decals stuck to the wing, while removing the mask tape.

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Cheers Rob

  • Like 4
Posted

Rainy days, what better thing to do than gloss coating. I finished decaling the body parts before and cleaned all the parts with warm soapy water from decaling residues. The large white decals gave me some worries, as the surfaces where marred visibly, despite them having protective paper on top, like you can see on the following pics.

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For gloss coating, I used my trusty combo of Zero lacquer clear coat and leveling thinner. First, I sprayed the clear un thinned on, to protect the decals, ensure a fast drying time, as to hinder the paint to react with the decals. The result doesn´t look appealing, but that´s no problem.

The next coat is thinned with about 30 percent of leveling thinner, after maybe 15 minutes of drying time. This coat leveled a bit better, but the following coats, each thinned a bit more with levelling thinner, always after 15 minutes of drying time levelled near perfect in the end, each coat "eating" in the coat before. The last coat (#5) was sprayed with about 70 percent of thinner. Luckily I had no runners, but tried to let the parts dry "flat".
Now I leave the body parts in peace for two days to dry through before I start polishing.

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Cheers Rob

  • Like 3
Posted
9 minutes ago, PanzerWomble said:

Can I ask 

Big needle & low pressure for the lacquer ? 0.5

Sure PW, I use my H&S Infinity Giraldez with 0,4 mm needle and nozzle with a bit under 1 bar of pressure.

Cheers Rob 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted

Phenomenal paint and decal work there Rob. 

I'm still messing with the carbon decals on my HP4 kit and decalling is my least favourite part of building. 

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