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Iceman

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Iceman last won the day on September 25 2016

Iceman had the most liked content!

About Iceman

  • Rank
    LSM Member
  • Birthday 03/29/1962

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Gaylord, Michigan
  • Interests
    World War II & Modern Jets
  1. Just sharing what I consider to be the best reference for the USAF F-4, Jake Melamphy's The Modern Phantom Guide published by Reid Air Publications. Book is currently out of print but I believe there are copies for sale floating around on Ebay and such. Invaluable photo and text reference.
  2. Alberto, I am also using the center line tank from GT Resin and I currently have this on the workbench. Time constraints for me right now have not allowed me to do much in the way of progress photos but I can share what I am doing. The GT Resin tank is actually a copy of the Tamiya center line tank from the F-4J kit so it fits the kit perfectly, other than the fact that it does need to be pinned to the fuselage for added strength and alignment. I am also adding a couple of details that I believe have been missed on many F-4 builds that I have seen along with tweek lists that are out there. (1) The tips of the rear fins of the center line drop tank are in fact held by two small brackets that open up from the fuselage and serve to stabilize the tank from swaying while the aircraft is in flight (2) Four tank stabilizers are located alongside the center line tank that drop down from the fuselage and again serve as sway braces for the tank while in flight, these are very similar to the sway braces found on the wing pylons and MERs and TERs. Here are photos of the center line sway braces. And some photos of the fin sway braces When you look at the underside of the Tamiya wing/fuselage you will see that these panel openings have been incorporated on the kit, they just need to be opened up and the details made and installed. The center line tank will need to be mounted so that the fins to line up with the doors as provided in the kit, but as the GT Resin tank is a copy of the F-4J tank, it is not much of a problem for everything to line up correctly. Kirk
  3. I agree, I have several different sets from GT Resin and in my experience the castings tend to be hit and miss, some are very good, others are very rough with considerable pitting and flaws, but not really something unexpected from the smaller producer companies. I do overall like the sets they produce as they tend to pick up some of the details that other companies have missed in their sets along with doing some subjects and corrections for several of the 1/32 Trumpeter kits, like the F-105F & G, along with a complete F-4G and F-4S conversion sets for the Tamiya F-4s. Current finishing up and painting the ordinance load and drop tanks that I will be using on this project and getting started on the wing construction, should have some updated photos posted soon. Kirk
  4. Alberto, The GT Resin kit has very nice detail incorporated into the instrument panel, of which I just highlighted the smaller details and I did use Airscale's cockpit instrument decals for the larger instrument dials. The bonus with the GT Resin cockpit set is that in has the correct Mk. 5 ejection seats that were installed in all the F-4Cs, including Old's aircraft, big difference between the Mk.5 and Mk.7 ejection seats as installed in the F-Ds. Kirk
  5. Tamiya XF-7 or X-7 Red toned down with a little XF-10 Red Brown works well, you can also add a touch of XF-3 Yellow to get more of a deep orange hue. Recommend staying away from any tints to the white or buff tones as it tends to give the red a pink hue to it. If it looks right to your eye after applied, than it's right. Kirk
  6. Well, off on a new modeling project and work is underway on the Tamiya F-4C/D kit. My subject is Robin Olds F-4C, SCAT XXVII which was a early block C production aircraft and along with multiple corrections that need to be made to the older Tamiya kit to bring it up to standards, the cockpit was a good starting point. I am using the 1/32 early F-4C cockpit produced by GT Resin as it does correctly depict the early cockpit along with the correct Martin Baker Mk.5 ejection seats and not the Mk.7 version that is included in most other replacement sets that are available. Detail is very good, castings were a bit rough but fit was very good and is a direct replacement for the kits cockpit which meant no griding and sanding to make it fit. Painting is about complete on the cockpit tub, other than the ejection seats, and moving on to replace the kits intakes with resin seamless versions and starting correction/detail work on the tail and stabilizers. [/uR [/u[/ [/uR [/ URL]L]URL]RL]L]
  7. Iwata

    I have been using mine for little over a year, love it! Kirk
  8. Hey Oz, Yeah I do like the Vertigo jigs and highly recommend them. Currently a few projects underway, ZM 1/32 TA-152HO, HK 1/32 B-17G and Tamiya 1/32 F-4C. I like to work on a few projects at a time, when I get bored or frustrated with one kit, I will move over and work on another. Just how I roll. KJ
  9. Wow, nice! The Tamiya F-4 is one of my favorites and very happy to see vol.2 coming out soon.
  10. It is still sitting on the workbench and waiting for me to find some Mojo to work on the wing / fuselage joint. Going to require some serious scratch building to close it in correctly and just not in the mood for it at the moment. Working on a few other projects that are coming together well, so will have some more WIP post up in the future. Thanks for the encouragement OZ. KJ
  11. I have used the HGW rivet sets which are wet transfers and had good success with them. While I have not used this particular product on a painted surface, rather these sets are applied to the bare plastic then painted surface applied over top. However end results should not matter if you have a smooth paint finish whether using gloss products or simply polishing the surface with superfine grade sanding film. (1) Smooth Surface. (2) Apply Gunze Sangyo Mr. Mark Softer (Green label) generously to surface where transfer will be, and I mean generously, not a wimpy coating. (3) Soak transfer for a few seconds in clean warm water. (untreated pure or distilled water works best) (4) Apply transfer to surface. (5) Once in place and settled in, carefully push down transfer and smooth it out with cotton bud or similar without removing to much of the softer. (6) LEAVE IT ALONE for 3-4 hours or even longer, then carefully pickup up a end of the outer transfer film with fine tipped tweezers and gently remove the carrier film by pulling it back over itself. (7) Lastly using clean water with a small drop of dishwashing detergent, gently clean the surface on and around the transfer with just a damp cotton bud. What you should now have is a perfect transfer onto the surface. One last tip, seal transfers with a good quality clear gloss and you should not see any clear carrier film, air bubbles, etc., if you do, let the clear gloss completely dry then using a super fine sanding sponge or film (2000-3000), lightly polish the surface of the transfer area then hit it again with clear gloss. That should take care of it. Hope this helps Kirk
  12. Good to know, thanks, I do use some of AK Interactive weathering products and swear by the older MIG neutral and dark washes, love those for general weathering. I just have not had good success with airbrushing water-based acrylics, I use three different Iwata airbrushes with .23 mm, - .5 mm. nozzles, varying air pressures and different thinning agents from window cleaners to pure water but just do not care for the finish I achieve. Guess I am just old school, I can get Gunze and Tamiya lacquer acrylics to behave and finish just like two part automotive lacquers with either the Gunze 250 thinner with the retarder product mixed in or the 400 leveling thinner for really fine spraying, but just cannot get use to the pure water based acrylics. Looking forward to your reviews, will look for them. Thanks, Kirk
  13. Has anyone had any experience with the newer company K4 line of paints? Interested in the sets they have available for WWII Japanese aircraft, but as they are water based acrylics I am some what skeptical of what to expect with them. I am pretty well dedicated to and convinced on lacquer based and acrylic lacquers for airbrushing that I really hesitate anymore to try something else. Do use water based acrylics for brush painting but just have never been successful with using them for airbrushing. Thanks, Kirk
  14. Incredible realism and excellence at it's finest!!
  15. This has become one of those projects that has become bogged down by constraints on my workbench time and the fact that the joint between the kit wing assembly and the resin fuselage has turned into a absolute nightmare, even after numerous dry fits, which of course all looked good. Now with the cockpit assembly and the rear half of the engine module permanently installed in the fuselage, I ended up with huge gaps between the wing root and the wing itself when ready to bring these two together, along with minimal area for gluing bond, meaning a very weak join between the two. Really beginning to think a resin conversion kit along with adding resin cockpit and well wheel sets is just not the answer for this particular kit. Anyway, not sure how I am going to approach this, going to need a tremendous amount of work on the joint lines to make it look like anything other than poor and weak joint, very disappointed. Anyway in the meantime, I have been tinkering with the ZM 1/32 Ta 152H-0 kit, and before I knew it, I now have most of the kit assembled and the full engine assembly built and painted, and I actually started the riveting process on the wings, so might just continue on with this one for a while, I am really enjoying the kit, very impressed with it, so much so I ordered ZM's new DO 335 kit. So not sure at this point what will happen to my D-13 project, may be headed to the shelf of doom as there are just too many good kits awaiting to be built rather than struggling with this one. One for the experience files, do not try and incorporate several different resin sets into one build, recipe for disaster.