DocRob
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Posts posted by DocRob
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These interiors look great Peter. Nice subtle shading and a lot of detail please the eye. I like the SH manuals for getting an idea about a build, but they seem to be tricky, when it comes to details.
Cheers Rob
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1 hour ago, GazzaS said:
As you can see... my plastic strip stock is way out of scale. I may disassemble the chair, make each piece more narrow... and reassemble it. Most importantly, now I have some experience putting together this rickety thing.
Very ikeaesque Gaz
. By the way, they have manuals to download, which could help with the proportions. The chair would clearly benefit from narrower strips.
Cheers Rob
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1 hour ago, GazzaS said:
I bought a cutting mat.
This mat really ties the room together
.
Cheers Rob
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That depends Harv. There are lots of factors going in the decision for using the right tool. How big is the section to cut, is it flat or curved, which material and thickness has the material, do i need the separated part. These are only some questions to answer first.
I use different tools, ranging from sharp scalpels over fine saws, sometimes drill bits and grinding tools or Dremel blade saws. I often use Dynotape for marking the cuts and protect the remaining plastic.
My goto if possible tool is a razor saw, which cuts so fine, that you can use the cut part, for e.g. a cowling.Cheers Rob
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Wow, very cool paintjob and it even camoes the false shapes of the kit
. Gutsy call to spray the walk lines with masks, but it payed in the end. She will look great and will make you forget all the issues, this subpar kit has.
After all, it's somehow good to see, that not all the kits out there are perfect. Being in my third Tamiya build in a row, I have the feeling, that a kit which needs a bit more of extra work, should be next. The most fun generating project overall in the last years was the Mikro Mir Fokker D.VIII, where I could be very creative about finding solutions for the kits weaknesses.Cheers Rob
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The foiling job makes your 104 exceptional, she's a real stunner.
Cheers Rob
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Cool project Gaz, I only build one model with LED lights, the Nautilus submarine, where I bought a dedicated lighting kit, because I'm not much into electronics. It was easy to install with some required extra work. Most important is to check for unwanted light emissions.
I don't know, which kit you have, but there are lighting kits out there for Klingon battlecruisers.
I can imagine that my submarine with it's maybe 15 LED's would run for three days with one 9V batterie.Only one example: Amazon.com: Polar Lights - Star Trek Klingon K't'inga Lighting Kit 2T (Upgrades to kit POL950), 1:350 (MKA031M), White : Arts, Crafts & Sewing
Cheers Rob
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Painting is always a little tough with these not up to the task and therefore upgraded with skirts and whatever addons Panzer IV's. Will it be a tri tone camo? I wish you luck with the airbrushing and I'm sure you will master it.
Cheers Rob
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16 hours ago, Kaireckstadt said:
Nothing of the trouble you had is seen on the pictures. All problems well solved by you. Looks really stunning to me especially with the red rim.
The more I see of your build the more I‘m forced to take a look at a bike-kit and buy one…
Now on to the covering parts? I‘m curious!
Thank you Kai, I will definitely build another bike kit soon , but have no idea which. My favorite bikes doesn't exist in plastic.
Im looking forward to painting the body parts too and if I fail with these, I will convert the Ducati into a naked bike, which suits me as well.16 hours ago, GazzaS said:That is some stunning work, Rob! Though I'm not much into bikes, I prefer them without fairings and other crotch-rocket related stuff. Great job on those rim decals.
I only had naked bikes for real, to me the best thing is, having a good fitting leather gear, a great powerful naked bike and the wind blowing, a curvy mountain road ahead, can't beat it.
The rim decals are only so-so, from very close they are not perfect, but I spare you the view.15 hours ago, Peterpools said:Bravo - the pace you're working at and the difficulty of the kit, your build is brilliant. if I didn't know any better, I would easily think I'm looking at the real deal and not a model. Flawless❗
Thank you Peter, I maybe expressed myself not too well, the kit is well engineered and not overly difficult to build. It's only, that you have to chose a different approach than with most planes and armor builds. It took me a while to adopt, but now I really enjoy the different approach needed as a welcomed new variety.
4 hours ago, mark31 said:I just love it
Maybe I have to think to build a bike.
Very nice work
Thank you Mark, you should give it a try. In your able hands, I'm sure, there is a gem in the making. Have I mentioned, that I would really enjoy to follow a build of one of the Hiro bikes
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1 hour ago, BlrwestSiR said:Naked bikes almost always look better to me as well. The Ducati's is no exception.
Great work there Rob and it really does look like the real thing.
Mille gracie, Carl. The Ducati Monster was always a bike, which I really liked, but couldn't get me comfortable on it, as the proportions of the bike are a bit strange and it fits better to smaller people.
This was my last bike in Berlin (Sorry no own pics, I shot analog by this time). It's like a sharp blade, raw power, but with a perfect balance, stability and precision. You could go 200 km/h without any bad reactions from the bike, which is a good thing given the long fork and rear suspension. It may not look like, but the KTM is exceptional comfortable for greater guys and I drove more than once 500-700km day trips. In the city, the KTM handles like a bike, being light weight and powerful and it sounds like a Harley on speed,I would love to built the KTM as a model, but there is none.
Cheers Rob
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The beast has wheels, for my taste not much more is needed, other than a seat and the ignition key. I love naked bikes and wouldn't store my lengthy bones behind a plastic body, but this is another story.
The red stripes for the rims are segmented decals and they gave me some head scratches. Fit of the decals is good, but due to a bit of carrier film extending, it's difficult to blend them in, even with Micro Sol. I did the best I could, without ruining the finish of the rims and then applied some semi matte coat on the decals as they were to shiny.
You have to be very attentive through the build. One example is the front wheel.
You start painting the rim and and then drill, build and paint the breaking disks, which look nearly equal, but are not. before gluing these on you add the tire, which has a direction as well, which corresponds to the decal on the rim.
If you follow the manual very closely, everything will fit, but there are some trap doors for the 'I prepare everything and then assemble' type of guys, guess how I know. More than once, I had to remove a part, which was securely glued in place
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I want just emphasize, this is a different type of kit, where assumptions are not made lightly like with most planes.For the luckily supplied vinyl tubes, it pays, to fix the tube on a to assemble part and after gluing it in place, you have only to fiddle in the other side.
Cheers Rob
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43 minutes ago, Peterpools said:
I'm just blown away by your precision work and then the painting ... brilliant, just brilliant.
Thank you Peter, well appreciated from one of the masters here.
Cheers Rob
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That engine looks absolutely great Mark, I have to build one of those Hiro kits, when I'm grown up
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Cheers Rob
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20 hours ago, BlrwestSiR said:
Great job on the paint wotk Rob. It's impressive how the small add on details to the brakes improve them so dramatically.
Thank you Carl, it's good to have so many good looking paints, waxes and metals for replicating metal surfaces, but in the end, nothing beats the real thing, if it's made so well like Tamiya provided here.
19 hours ago, Bomber_County said:Very very nice Rob, I want a bike now……
Thanks Phil, I think a visit on Ducati.com would help for sure, but take care biking is addictive and reduces bench time
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Cheers Rob
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13 hours ago, Kaireckstadt said:
This is looking so realistic as if it was taken out of a manual.
Oh, that is from the manual, my subpar pics follow later
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Cheers Rob
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12 hours ago, Kaireckstadt said:
Amazing details, progress and an awesome build up to now.
This is looking so realistic as if it was taken out of a manual.
12 hours ago, mark31 said:You are doing a great job on the bike
12 hours ago, Peterpools said:Absolutely amazing. You building and painting skills are remarkable and the bike is coming together fantastically.
2 hours ago, GazzaS said:Very impressive looking work, Rob!
Thank you Gentlemen, I'm a bit afraid of first the delicate rim decals (thin red stipes), which I started yesterday and the painting of the body, which of course has to have a great shiny finish, after lots of masking painting and decaling.
Building bikes is somehow different to planes or armor. There is no in and out, no cockpit and wheel wells to finalize close the fuselage and then paint the outside. A bike is open and close at the same time, combining lots of different materials, textures and finishes in a very confined space. It's harder to keep the overview, specially with such a delicate and complicate machine, like a modern super bike.
It's a burden and fun at the same time, as replicating materials in plastic is one of my driving forces in modelling, you couldn't ask for more.
Cheers Rob
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1 hour ago, Kaireckstadt said:
Thats really helpful for a foto-rookie like me. Your tipps will help me improve the quality of my fotos. I do them with my IPhone but I think it’s necessary to switch to my Canon EOS Camera.
You can produce good pictures with an Iphone too. I often use mine, when I'm too lazy to pick up the camera and lenses. I found, that color rendition is better with my Iphone, than with my Panasonic Lumix system, using the default settings.
When photographing with the phone, I don't use the normal camera app, instead, I use ProCam (five well spent Dollars, when I remember it right), which allows to use manual settings for the more important settings, like white balance for color rendition and F-stop, to control the depth of field.
It also helps to incorporate a 2x zoom with the phone's camera for natural looking pictures of close ups, concerning the angles. If you use the normal wide angle settings, the picture doesn't look right.Cheers Rob
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Excellent paintjob Mark. I like the pre shading effect. To judge the grey is difficult from the pics, on some it looks bluish on another light gray, but I'm sure, you will make the grey fit.
Cheers Rob
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Nice and clean build John, the finish is perfect, I can't be bored by Corsairs.
Cheers Rob
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The last days, there was a lot of work, but not much to show. I sprayed lots of parts semi matte black and others in titanium silver and aluminum and painted a lot of details.
The kit is great, but not easy to build and paint. you have to be very attentive and concentrated, to orientate everything right, with all these complex shaped parts. Another difficult task is to glue all the painted bits and pieces with their delicate surfaces, without glue residues showing. I managed to have that on one part.The extra metal fork set looks great and is a nice, but not essential addition to the kit. In the fork set are also included a turned and anodized oil reservoir for the rear damper and some tiny turned and drilled screws for the braking disks.
The tiny bits and pieces for the front fork. The aluminum rings around the blue anodized parts have six drill marks from above, amazing.
Here are the finished front braking discs, with the applied aluminum screws for vibration absorption.
You can't see all the details, like the suspension axle, which was chromed for a better look, The oil reservoir is made of turned and anodized aluminum with an Öhlins decal.
Chain and chainwheel and rear brakes.
Cheers Rob
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32 minutes ago, BlrwestSiR said:
Rob, it's the Tamiya 1/12 kit. I was hoping they would reissue the kit at some point so I could get replacements but that hasn't happened yet. MFH might make tires in that scale but I'm not sure.
Im waiting for this to happen too, but ordered the new release of the old 1/12 Brabham BT44 kit yesterday.
@Ernie, OT off, sorry
.
Cheers Rob
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3 hours ago, GazzaS said:
Viel Spaß beim Plastikmodellbau, meine Herren!
Vielen Dank mein Herr, your detail work looks splendid. I use Revell contacta clear for clear parts, which seems to be similar to white glue for wood. Since last week, I feared, that the bond could be not strong enough, but then I had the canopy fogging issue with my KI-61 (not caused by the glue) and I was not able to remove it, without using brutal force.
For the position lights, I use the same technique, but for a newer looking plane use a silver coat on the backside of the clear part.Cheers Rob
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6 hours ago, harv said:
Lots of goodness !.......harv
Do you still need the base kit?
Cheers Rob
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2 hours ago, Clunkmeister said:
Yeah, you don’t need to hide those brakes. Damn….
I never got into car models. I’d like to do an 1/8 or so antique motorcycle, but it would need to be something off the beaten path, like a Vincent Black Shadow or Lightning. Or even an Ace, Indian, or Henderson 4.
Lord knows I’ll never own a real Vincent. Those things are selling north of $900,000
Ernie, Model Factory Hiro has some highly detailed 1/9 kits in their range. There is a Vincent too. They are pricey, but you can cancel the last three zeros from the real thing
.
Cheers Rob
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2 hours ago, BlrwestSiR said:
Got you beat there. My Tamiya McLaren MP4/6 I started in 1993 is still in the stash. I work on it once in a while for a bit and then put it back. I have to figure out the tires as a couple have dry rotted. I'm thinking of just leaving them off one side and showing off the brakes.
Where is the dust Carl?
The brakes cry for continuing with the McLaren. If it's 1/20, then Model Factory Hiro produces tires fitting to the different decades.
Cheers Rob
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Painting insignia instead of decals?
in Hints and Tips
Posted
Yup, first the white and then the blue. You need to be precise with the masking for the blue, not to have some unwanted white framing.
Your masks look a bit loose on the plastic, Be sure to make them adhere well, that no color might run under.
Cheers Rob