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Bomber_County

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    Zoukei-Mura P51D Mustang SWS No 4.

    in LSM 1/35 and Larger Work In Progress

    Posted

    1 hour ago, Peterpools said:

    Chris

    My go to paint removal tool: Mr Hobby Self Leveling Thinner - works 100% of the time on any model paint and primer. Mr Color Rapid Thinner from what I've read and watched online is a bit too aggressive and can attack the plastic. Believe me, over the years I've stripped more models down to bare plastic then I care to remember.  When I'm done, I just wipe the model down with a wet paper towel or even dampened with isopropyl alcohol; done and finished. 

    BTW, wear a respirator, safest way to go - years past I didn't and now a cancer survivor, I would never handle thinners without protection.  

    :construction:

    Thanks Peter and good advise. I think we have all been a little neglectful in the past. …..

    • Like 2

    Zoukei-Mura P51D Mustang SWS No 4.

    in LSM 1/35 and Larger Work In Progress

    Posted

    2 hours ago, DocRob said:

    Don´t throw them away Phil. I like the Xtreme Metals a lot, most of them spray very well and are more robust than Alclad. My only issues were with Titanium, which didn´t adhere very good. Alclad chrome looks a bit better than Extreme Metallics chrome, which I tested a lot with my Renault RE20 build. 

    I recently sprayed a NMF 1/48 Lightning with Alclad´s polished Aluminum, which also is a bit better then Extreme Metals, BUT, I only used the Alclad, because I deliberately chose a paint scheme, which omitted masking after the NMF. In the WIP, I described my testing and base coating with Tamiya LP gloss black and the application of polished aluminum. Like Peter suggested, I keep the air pressure relatively low and if you go for a high shine finish, very fine layered application is the way to go. You have to reach the point, where the blackness of the base barely disappears. Flooding is no option for high shine finishes, no matter if it´s Xtreme Metal or Alclad.

    The only real letdown with Extreme Metals from AK is the black base, which can ruin a model completely. I threw my bottles away and will never use them again. 

    Cheers Rob

    Thanks Rob, the black base has been regulated to the garage. I may just have another go at the Xtreme metals because it’s basically just the U/S now…..if it goes horribly wrong the oven cleaner is coming out……….

    • Like 3

    Zoukei-Mura P51D Mustang SWS No 4.

    in LSM 1/35 and Larger Work In Progress

    Posted

    20 hours ago, BlrwestSiR said:

    Phil, you're using Tamiya X20A thinner which is for acrylic paint. You need their lacquer thinner. X20A has a white cap, the lacquer thinner has a yellow one. 

    PXL_20231223_171204669.thumb.jpg.5990d268bee5267d44af742129d96448.jpg

    If you have access to Mr Color, any of these will work as well.

    PXL_20231223_171758344.thumb.jpg.06ef3792e9d9ae60138e6a34310bfc4a.jpg

    Thanks Carl , I used the white cap 🙄I don’t possess any of the others unfortunately, a real dilemma which way to go now, 

    • Like 2

    My wife has been gaslighting me

    in General Discussion

    Posted

    On 12/16/2023 at 8:03 PM, PanzerWomble said:

    Sell the kits have an around the world holiday 😀.....I can knock out 2 a month , so 170....thats 7 years worth for me at least.....

    FYI my stash is a whole ....20 today  .( £800 tied up) ..stuff I've lost interest in or just had knocking around too long gets sold .  

     

    Just my opinion . 🤣

    Just had a stocktake , down to 17……..the big bearded fellow has one more that certain people are going to hate………..

    • Like 2

    Soo.... What did you just get???

    in Modelling Discussion

    Posted

    2 hours ago, Peterpools said:

    Last of my mini buying spree and I'm all set now for many months, as if the stash needed any help.

    Sprue Bro. Lightening Deal at an awesome price.

    Never seen a build of this Mitchell, looking forward to it. IMHO 48th suits twins to a tee………I keep eying their Lancaster……..

    • Like 4

    Zoukei-Mura P51D Mustang SWS No 4.

    in LSM 1/35 and Larger Work In Progress

    Posted

    13 hours ago, Peterpools said:

    Phil

    There really isn't any differences in how U shoot Alclad Xtreme Metals

    1. Super smooth black base

    2. Shake the bottle well to be sure the pigments are all in suspension and nothing is still clinking to the bottom of the bottle.

    3. I set my compressor at 1.5 bars or around 12-15 psi, which is not the working pressure, which is less.

    4. Light easy mist coats and gradually build up the reflected shine/NMF. 

    5. If the NMF is rough and grainy and all of the above was done correctly, the air brush might be too far from the model surface and the Alclad and Xtreme Metal might be drying before it reaches the model's surface.

    Hope this helps.

    I think to far away from the surface is the cause, I did all of the other steps……

    • Like 1

    Zoukei-Mura P51D Mustang SWS No 4.

    in LSM 1/35 and Larger Work In Progress

    Posted

    2 hours ago, CANicoll said:

    Phil,

    Sorry to hear of all the trials and tribulations you are having with this build.  Ugh!!!  I have the ZM P-51D to build.  I have used oven cleaner to remove paint on a build.  It is nasty stuff (don't get it on anything metal!) but it really does work without damaging the plastic.

    Might be too late to suggest, but have you tried the Vallejo Metal Color finishes?  They are not lacquer and I've found they shoot really well.  I have had no lifting problems over the Vallejo primers, too. Especially the Vallejo Gloss black primer.  I have done Alclad and MRP and love those paints but if you are having prep problems, maybe an easier route is called for?

    That said, Peter is an ace at finishes so following his recommendations is never a bad strategy.  I usually shoot Alclad a about 7 psi at the airbrush but I always do a 'test shoot' on an old model (an 1/48 P-51D which I often clean/strip to keep the layers down) before applying to a build just to check the mixture and pressure.

    Good luck and can't wait to see how this turns out for you.

    Chris

    Thanks Chris, I use Vallejo predominantly but had a brain fade and bought nearly the whole range of Xtreme Metals. In retrospect I’d wish I’d bought the Vallejo Metal Colour instead. The base coat is stuck on like glue now so I’m not even oven cleaner will fetch it off. The scheme I’ve decided on is an OD upper which I have some Xtracolour in OD and their faded OD. U/S I could try another Xtreme Metal ………

    • Like 2

    Zoukei-Mura P51D Mustang SWS No 4.

    in LSM 1/35 and Larger Work In Progress

    Posted

    13 hours ago, GusMac said:

    I'd back up the comments about the black base, Tamiya lacquer is a far better option. Never had any issues masking on Xtreme Metals with kabuki type tapes but Montex vinyl masks ruined the NMF I did on my P47,  leaving residue everywhere. 

    Thanks Gus, I’ll remember about the Montex for the future…..I’m trying to source the LP1 now…..

    • Like 3

    Zoukei-Mura P51D Mustang SWS No 4.

    in LSM 1/35 and Larger Work In Progress

    Posted

    1 hour ago, Peterpools said:

    Phil

    Good to see your ZM P-51 is back on the bench.

    I'm right with Carl and Rob. My way of redoing a paint finish is to completely remove every ounce of paint and primer and I go the Mr Hobby Self Leveling Thinner route. I never sand as that's way too much work with all the finishing and polishing grades of sanding to go through.  

    I never ever had any luck using Alclad or Xtreme Metals Gloss Black Bases. After stripping off all the paint and primer, one last wipe over with Isopropyl Alcohol to make sure everything is clean, plus no finger prints and oils. 

    Primer of choice: MRP Gray Primer - lacquer.

    Gloss Black Base: Mr Color Gloss Black (2)or Tamiya Gloss Black (LP 1). With lacquers from the plastic on up, they are impervious to whatever paint and NMF product you wish to use. I've been very lucky and mask right on top of my NMF with de-tacked Tamiya tape and can't remember ever having lifted off any of the metal finishes. I have a good supply of Alclad and Xtreme Metals and agree with Rob that the Xtreme Metals seem to be a bit more durable then Alclads. I normally will use both on any project, intermixing shades of metals as to which brand has the shade I'm after. 

    On 32nd scale aircraft, my LG oleos are Chrome over gloss black and then masked over for weeks and a month or more and no issues at all. 

    :construction:

     

       

    Thanks Peter, I’ll try X20, that’s all I have. What’s your recommendation on the the Xtreme metals, mine came out very grainy? Too much air, not enough, I didn’t thin them? Really want to do the NFM…….

    • Like 1

    Zoukei-Mura P51D Mustang SWS No 4.

    in LSM 1/35 and Larger Work In Progress

    Posted

    2 hours ago, BlrwestSiR said:

    Phil, if you're going to strip the model, you can Tamiya or Mr Color lacquer thinner to do so. Both are cool enough to strip the paint and not affect the plastic. Looking back, I had to partially strip my CF-104 and I used Mr Color lacquer thinner to do so. That was done with AK Xtreme Metal over a black base coat. 

    I had some weird paint issues after trying to paibt a contrasting panel. 

     

     

    For the repaint, I did the panel first in lacquer, masked it and then re-sprayed the Xtreme Metal. 

     

    Thanks Carl, I have X20 but no Mr Hobby thinner. I’ll give a panel a test to see how it comes off. Next order will be to buy some gloss black base primer. I really want to the 51 in NMF but concerned I’d #### it up again…..hmmmmm decisions…….

    • Like 1
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