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HubertB

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    1/32 Trumpeter P-40F Warhawk

    in LSM 1/35 and Larger Work In Progress

    Posted

    Hey Martin, 

    I take a few lessons from your posts:

    1) you can improve your tidying skills. As Ikea ads say, it helps, sometimes ...

    2) dogfood, per gram, is still cheaper than kits

    3) you can still do taxidermy whilst the putty hardens

    4) I would never have thought that Trumpeter could release inaccurate kits. Now that’s a tough lesson :wtf:

    5) you can still feed unused parts, like the propeller, or the spinner, or (insert the list of inaccurate parts here) to your starving buddy

    6) you definitely have not lost your modelling skills

    7) I love the scheme you have chosen

    All in all, I will conclude with a single word : :popcorn:

    Hubert

    • Like 1
    • Haha 5

    IBG PZL P-11c modified to P11/IV prototype. Reigniting the building process ...

    in LSM 1/35 and Larger Work In Progress

    Posted

    Hi Marcin, 

    Thank you for your new information. It’s no problem at all that you were misled for a moment. As the saying goes, « only those who do nothing never make mistakes » :) . And it’s good as well that the documents I had read were not wrong in the end. The books I had read, from Polish authors, were affirmative about the 1934 bird in Paris being equipped with a Mercury, but your photograph convinced me that it could be a G&R Mistral 9. So we were brothers in error ;) : we both mistook twin exhaust pipes for rocker covers.

    There are some positives about your intervention however, from my point of view :


    1) Your pic has confirmed that the wheel spats had fairings to the gear legs. I had assumed they had, based on the contemporary P-24 pictures, but it was still some conjecture rather than a certainty.

    2) I have learned some useful additional information like the lack of radio equipment and dedicated panel in the rear fuselage.

    3) I have had to tackle again the design of a radial engine, and have in the process improved my skills with Solidworks, and used some new functions I had not yet used. It was not shake-and-bake, but it took me only a few working days to do so.

    4) I will nevertheless finish designing the G&R Mistral 9 ( I am in the final stages of designing / fine tuning the « K » cylinder). This will open up some new possibilities, including scratchbuilding some ignored subjects. I always loved the look of the Morane Saulnier 225, for instance, and IIRC, it was equipped with the G&R Mistral 9 :rolleyes:

    5) This was an opportunity to confirm my move into a new realm of modelling. Now, I know I can design and print some parts fairly easily, and this is a great alternative to gluing bits and pieces for creating some scratchbuilt parts.

    Keep the information flowing.

    Hubert

     

     

     

    • Like 3
    • Thanks 1

    IBG PZL P-11c modified to P11/IV prototype. Reigniting the building process ...

    in LSM 1/35 and Larger Work In Progress

    Posted

    Thank you Marcin.

    I have made progress on my own design of the G&R Mistral 9. I should have finished designing the cylinder in the coming week. Then it’s another few days for a good print ;) 

    i-32k7GFm-600x521.png

     

    i-2ZBn2FS-600x442.png

    I need to check your spats’ drawing against my interpretation. The problem is that I now have glued the legs to them.

    And of course, I need to design and print a new long fairing for the new engine, and most likely a new cowling :)

    Hubert.

     

    • Like 8

    Daft project or is it? 1/32 Short Stirling III

    in LSM 1/35 and Larger Work In Progress

    Posted

    21 hours ago, GazzaS said:

    That is big!  But more worrying is the 'puffiness' in the moldings.

    This is why vac-forms get such a poor reputation. There are two ways to produce a vac-form: pulling the sheet on a male plug, or drawing it into a female plug. 
    The female mold method produces sharply-defined, with good surface detail, shapes, and the separation line from the backing sheet is clearly defined as well. My Nieuport Sesquiplan was produced this way, as were the Welsh Models 1/144 liners. 
     

    But of course, this requires a lot more work for the producer than the male plug method: making a master, then producing molds for the female vacforming process, with suitably placed micro-holes for the suction to work.

    Which is why, most of the time, vacs are made with the male master plug method. Easy-peezy, lazy way.

    Add to that the approximate shapes that ID Models were used to (in my own experience, I had to throw away the Saab J-29 kit, and the HP Hampden is not much better, with too shallow fuselage, very wrong engine cowlings - lacking a good 4+ mm in diameter - and inaccurate transparencies), and you end up with blobs of plastic with a huge potential only for the bravest - or foolest - modellers like our friend Wingco ;) ...

    Hubert

    • Like 5
    • Thanks 2
    • Haha 1

    What is on your bench right now ? Share a picture :)

    in Modelling Discussion

    Posted

    And another radial engine design on the virtual bench !

    Since Marcin Matejko, our VERY talented Polish member and modeller, who has produced a number of outstanding scratchbuilt kits of different PZLs, has intervened in my build thread for the IBG P11c to show me that in the conversion I was attempting to reproduce (the 1934 Paris Air Show bird), I had to take into account that the engine in Paris was a Gnome & Rhone Mistral 9 Kdrs, not the Mercury one, I have been on the lookout for reference data and drawings, whilst trying to avoid paying € 350 for the technical manual (you can find it at this starting price on eBay and Abebooks).

    I found enough to be able to start a design and extrapolate the dimensions I could not read on some drawings I found.

    I now "just" have to design the K cylinder. Drawing on my experience with the R-985 design, I tried to do as much in one design as I could. What you are seeing here is already a 1 Gb .stl file. The cylinders will have to be separate in the 3D printing process.

    i-32k7GFm-600x521.png i-B2vhnp8-600x448.png

    And with the outline of the cylinders ...

    i-2ZBn2FS-600x442.png

    Now onto designing the cylinder. With the reference I have, it should not take 5 1/2 years like with the R-985 :)

    Hubert

     

    • Like 7
    • Thanks 1

    What is on your bench right now ? Share a picture :)

    in Modelling Discussion

    Posted

    1 hour ago, GazzaS said:

    I think ship models may be too much for those with attention deficit like myself.  I've spent probably ten or more hours adding the rolled up torpedo nets, Anchors, Chains, and anchor retention chains. 

     

    I didn't have any finer chain than the anchor chain, so I used rigging thread to play the part of retention chains.  If I did have any finer chain...  I wouldn't have been able to use it.  Working with links that are from 3mm to 4mm long is about the limit imposed by my brain and dexterity.

    P1013412.JPG

    P1013413.JPG

    P1013409.JPG

    P1013410.JPG

     

    48 minutes ago, DocRob said:

    I feel your pain with ultra fine repetitive works, like these chains. Without better knowing, I doubt, that an anchor chain would lay loosely on a deck like the back one. Imagine a ship rolling in heavy sea and a loose chain is snaking on the deck looking for prey foot.

    Cheers Rob

    I agree with Rob. At the other, invisible, end of this chain is an anchor weighing a few tons. That’s enough to tension any chain.

    As for ship modelling, I believe that once you are used to 1/32 in aircrafts, 1/350 in ship modelling is just too small. For me the « proper » scale for large ships is 1/200, and between 1/48 and 1/100 for period sailing ships.

    As for 1/700 ships :2guns:

    Hubert

    • Like 4

    Soo.... What did you just get???

    in Modelling Discussion

    Posted

    7 hours ago, GazzaS said:

    Oh, you must tell me about your lathe!  Is it usable for metal parts?  I've been tempted to get a lathe for ages.

    I can already give you the answer to that, Gaz, and it’s a flat « no », unfortunately.

    A metal lathe requires a vey rigid chassis, torque more than speed, a strong attachment point for the cutting tool, i.e. a travelling chariot rather than a tool support like Rob’s new baby,  micrometer advancement settings for the tool, a strong chuck, etc. The only way to machine metal on a wood lathe is to have a very soft metal like aluminium (and then not all aluminiums alloys) and use a file. You cannot do much this way.

    You can find some new, small dimensions, metal lathes - made in China - in a price range between 500 and 1000 USD. For the price, they can be surprisingly precise ( the key criterion being concentricity tolerance). And then you can also look for second-hand ones.

    The small Unimat 1 could do some small-diameter metal work, provided you changed the motor, and added stiffener plates everywhere, or changed the plastic chariots to metal ones. Not really cheaper than a dedicated small metal lathe as described above, in the end. And it still lacked the bulk and weight of the small metal lathes you can find on the market.
    On a machine that exerts cutting and tearing forces on metal, mass, that increases inertia, dampens vibrations, and is also a signal of the size of the chassis, and therefore of its rigidity, is actually a helping factor. The Chinese-made small dedicated metal lathes weigh around 50 kg and up.

    And, btw, conversely, do not expect to turn wood on a metal lathe. Plastic, yes, perspex yes, soft metals or steel yes, on these cheap-end metal lathes, but not wood... Ask me how I know ;) 

    So that means two lathes if you want to turn wood and machine metal (the semantic difference is actually meaningful)

    Hubert

    PS: nice little machines, Rob. These Proxxon machines are actually fairly good, robust and precise for modelling.

    • Like 6

    New Quinta Studio Cockpit Sets Released.

    in Hobbynut Models

    Posted

    These look really good, even better, IMHO, than my current go-to reference, aka Yahu panels.

    Unfortunately, my « exotic » modelling choices mean I am unlikely to get any of these sets, buy maybe for a Spiffire IX or Mustang set, for which I have civilian or racer schemes targeted.

    In the meantime, Airscale decals will come to my rescue ;) 

    Hubert

    Sorry didn't understand the premise of this site

    in General Discussion

    Posted

    In essence, LSM is for Large Scale Models (of aircrafts and armour, implicitly).

    But there is an area for Non-LSM WiP threads, where you can even post a 1/72 aircraft build (aaaaargh ! ;) ) !

    And this is a pretty oecumenical site. I have yet to see anyone protesting about a non-LSM build. At worst, you would get get your build thread transferred to another area of the site.

    So, finally, welcome to LSM. I love the rusting of the Porsche.

    Hubert

    • Like 5

    There's always one ... ** Warning: Rant Incoming **

    in General Discussion

    Posted

    7 hours ago, Artful69 said:

    So ... Who here has heard of Andy's Hobby Headquarters?? ... 

    Well ... I'm subscribed to this You Tube Channel ... which I find very useful for Modelling news, In box reviews and build reviews ... not to mention the cool hints and tips. The guy is about my speed - detailed but not overly pedantic. I don't have time to watch all of his videos ... but those I do I always leave a like and a comment for - because with You Tubers, this little action helps them out... Usually it's something uplifting or encouraging.

    In this case Andy was giving an overview of the new Border Tiger.I kit ... Like any kit ... from any manufacturer ... I assume that it has it's deficiencies - that's always a given. Quite frankly ... looking at the RFM, Takom, Meng and Border model kits from recent times, I'm staggered at the increased level of detail available ... Compared to the "benchmark" Dragon kits of the late "noughties" there tend to be less sprue and sub assemblies - for pretty much the same result. Add to that Takom's new "Blitz" style of link-and-length track arrangement and a similar thing from Border Model and suddenly you have highly detailed kits that don't take a lot of time to build!

    So I left: "We've come a long way since Dragon Tigers!! ... Waiting for this one ..."

    Ok Rog ... I hear you say ... I grabbed my popcorn to watch you rant ... where is it?? ...

    So ... I think there's one that pops up on every forum at one time or other ... (Radu on LSP for example) ... People who know it ALL ... and are excellent in starting S%$T-fights because they can't resist sticking their nose in to provide you with a correction or some sort of unsolicited advice ... you know the type? ... the ones that think you bought something / are approaching a task a certain way / have a certain viewpoint - only because you lack their superior level of knowledge or wisdom - which they are all to ready to provide you with all while doing their best to remind you of how inferior to them that you are ... and when you try to politely tell them exactly where they can go and shove their superior attitude ... they seem to think that you can't handle a "conversation" with someone who is trying to "help" or that you can't handle "facts" or "truth" ... all the while missing the point of your ire completely.

    Well ... Thats what happened with my comment on Andy's ... Some AH who goes by the handle "Davey Byrden" decided that My Opinion was all wrong ... "My Opinion" mind!! 

    "Could you explain what direction we've come a "long way" in ? I don't believe you can say this kit is better than a Dragon Tiger kit in every respect. So how are you judging it?"

    An innocent enough looking question yeah?? ... Just look at the way its phrased though!! ... Do I mind explaining myself (as if I had the audacity to blaspheme against his Holy Opinion) ... He doesn't believe I can say what I am saying (as if I give a rolling rats rear end!!) ... So he want's to correct my "errors" - but he can't do that without making gross assumptions you see?? - so he starts off here by trying to find out why I look at this kit the way that I do. So ... I'm happy to provide him with my judgement - which is really me just giving him my opinion.

    He follows up with exactly what I expected ... trying to lecture me on what my misconceptions were and why my opinion was wrong ... Of course I can't just tell him to go forth and multiply (and believe me I sincerely wanted to!!) and that of course - is when the faeces hit the propulsion device in a big way ... and from the couple of follow up exchanges we had I still can't tell whether he just thought his opinion was right or he didn't get that his approach was all wrong - it was like he was looking for an argument ... of course the result is always the same - he wanted to blame me for his pi$$poor attitude toward someone having a different opinion. I scrolled down and looked through a couple of the negative comments on the vid - and sure enough - this idiot shows up on them agreeing the that kit is poor - but disagreeing as to why ...

    I think he got the message though ...

    Rog :)

     

    2 hours ago, Bill_S said:

    That's exactly why I stick to LSM, Rog.

     

    2 hours ago, Jeff said:

    YUP, me too, Bill ...... I always wonder how I have lived so long with all the 'experts' telling me what I have done wrong or am going to do wrong, I hear your comments loud and clear Rog, and agree fully.....as an example, recently,  I 'had' a good friend who called me a narcissist for buying a RED truck, because he didn't like red ! Go figure ...

     

    23 minutes ago, BlrwestSiR said:

    But everyone knows red ones go faster! :lol:

    As for the original issue, a lot of times these guys do know a fair bit about their field of expertise but don't know how to communicate it to folks without coming across as an sanctimonious a-hole or worse. Which can be a shame.

    Ernie and I talked about this a few years ago and how you appreciate the knowledge some of these guys have but can't stand the personality that comes with it. 

    Carl

    And based on what expertise do you guys dare to criticise people who have a real knowledge in a field where you are obviously just amateurs (especially red) ?

    Let me start by telling you how wrong you are ... :rolleyes: ... and then ... :rofl:

    Hubert the omniscient know-it-all (and more)

    • Like 3
    • Haha 5

    1/32 Revell Bristol Beaufighter build

    in LSM 1/35 and Larger Work In Progress

    Posted

    The collector rings of the Bristol engines were made of steel (not stainless, as far as I know), the only metal that could withstand the high temperatures of the exhaust gases.

    Their color is actually a mix of the colors you find on steel submitted to high temperatures and almost submitted to a tempering process: from the blue so much loved by the high-range watchmakers like Breguet (steel blued at an alcohol flame) to the reds and oranges of steel going through various high temperature gradients, to some rust. « Brass » is just a shortcut simplification of these complex hues ...

    Hubert

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 2
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