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HubertB

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Posts posted by HubertB

  1. 17 minutes ago, Clunkmeister said:

    I took a sanding stick to the prop roots already, trying to correct the blocky angles IBG gives me, and they do look a lot better than they did on the Sprue.  But we’ll see I guess.

    And I had my first close look at the oil cooler last night. I’d say yes, it’s one of the few parts that could benefit from the preciseness of a resin casting. 

    I’m looking forward to seeing those wheel spats Hubert. Id certainly be open to purchasing a set or two if you’re reproducing them.

    I had not thought about making resin copies of the spats. I can see already plenty of reasons where there would be issues like undercut. Lemme give the idea more reflection :hsmack:.

    Hubert

    • Like 4
  2. Actually, it's one of the (or more likely just THE ) inaccuracies of the kit: the root of the prop is too squarish and needs smoothing and rounding out. This is maybe where the AM parts could be justified, as the oil radiator which is nice as is, but given molding limitations - mold release angle to be precise -, does not accurately represent the concentric fan-type orientation of the radiator fins ...

    I think I have sorted out doing the wheel-spats for the 1934 prototype. The spats are not that complex to reproduce, but the fairing between the spat and the LG struts is a very complex streamined shape, and I made my life more difficult by not yet gluing the strut to the fairing, to make the process reversible in case I f%@!d up and had to change plans.

    Time to start a WiP now this is sorted, methink.

    Hubert

    • Like 5
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  3. 11 hours ago, Clunkmeister said:

    Anyone who fetches Guinness from a refrigerator is on my naughty list.

    Guinness is consumed at room temperature, oh yee of little training.

    Sorry to disagree, Ernie, but Guinness is drank :

    a) draught from the tap(or at least in their new cans with the ball inside, like paint cans) with nitrogen gas to pressurise the keg. Certainly not at room temperatures, and even less from a glass bottle where it tastes like tar ...

    b) cold

    c) in a pint

    d) with repeats of a) to c)

    I used to market beers in my youth years (before petfood, and product tests were more interesting in this first part than in the latter one ;) ), and we were distributing Guinness in France. My personal record for emptying a pint was 9.3 seconds, waaaayyy behind my best colleague at the Guinness brewery at 2.5 seconds :rolleyes:

    Hubert

    PS: I hope things turn around better for you sooner rather than later, Tony. My business is not looking good ATM, but I suspect still leagues better than the airline industry.

    • Like 7
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  4. I don’t want to crush you hopes, John, but the issues are probably more serious than ICM’s ones ...

    Still, it’s an A-26, in 1/32, and it’s unlikely there will be a Tamiya one ;) ...

    If you look at other threads here on LSM, you’ll get the full picture, chapter and verse ...

    Hubert

    • Like 3
  5. 35 minutes ago, DocRob said:

    Bom Dia Hubert,
    Is there a Yahu IP included in the special edition?

    Cheers Rob

    No. But I had bought one for my SW kits ;) 

    The Special Edition has 4 brass Master gun-barrels, a very nice Bitzkrieg resin pilot, and the special scheme I have now sent to Ernie. Not sure it is worth the extra price, considering you can get most of the extras separately, apart from the special decal sheet.

    Hubert

    • Like 4
  6. 3 hours ago, ThomasProbert said:

    An interesting point indeed - in this case the ‘vac nonsense’ would likely be the better option if you want an accurate Invader in 1/32nd scale.

    Perhaps more modellers should in fact build more ‘vac nonsense’ and dig out those old ID Models Invaders buried deep in their stashes and get cracking. ;)

    In fairness, Tom, a lot of these old vacs are sometimes not as accurate ( no idea for the ID/Tigger/Combat A-26, but I am thinking of the Hampden for instance ... ) as one could expect them to be. Plus there IS a difference between a good female-molding vac (like Welsh Models 1/144 liners) and the sometimes rough male-master vacs ...

    Where I am 200 % with you, is that vacform kits are more maligned than they really deserve. And resin AM and now 3D printing make the option far easier now than ever.

    Hubert

    • Like 3
  7. Looking good Ernie. Your build and another one on LSP have shown that one of the major issues of the kit is the fit of the wing, and even more the fit of the wing’s MG cover. A good forewarning for me ( and all the others ) lagging behind you.

    One word of caution regarding your engine : all the Bristol engines had black-enamelled crankcases and pushrod-covers.

    Hubert.

    • Like 5
  8. 12 hours ago, TJTX said:

    Dont forget it's ok to run the line just a little loose, then tighten it up with a warm piece of metal.  I used a putty blade heated with a lighter.  Hold it under the line and watch as it tightens right up. 

    I personally use an incandescent toothpick. Light it on, blow away the flame, and bring the incandescent tip under the wire. If you have many in the same area, wait until you have all of them installed. An incandescent matchstick will do the same.


    One last word of advice : practice the heat tensioning on some form of mule. A little too close, and the wire will snap. You can always replace it, but pulling the remnant piece of wire from its hole can be vey difficult. Ask me how I know ... Did I mention that CA is VERY resistant to tensile forces :) ? 
     

    Hubert

    • Like 5
  9. 20 hours ago, Bomber_County said:

    This is great guys. So I’m off to scour Amazon for some monofilament, WnW indicate 0.1 x 0.3 for wires so I reckon 0.25 OD would be a fair compromise????? .......if I can get it black or brown ..........?...

    Pulling the monofilament under a Sharpie  tip will color it any way you want. Black will make it more visible. 0.2 will then look better. For silver, I put some Rub’n Buff on a piece of paper towel, and pull the wire through the folded paper.

    Hubert

    PS: btw, after a long search, I finally found some flat monofilament (in dayglo orange ;) ) , although it is a bit on the heavy side. Spending time on an internet search on fishing supply sites and forums may be worth it. And if you find something, do not hesitate to share your finding. I can’t remember where I found my flat monofilament, but shared it at the time on LSP.

    • Like 6
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  10. 1 hour ago, Jeff said:

    I KNEW I would learn something here !  Excellent Ernie..... when you are attaching the wires to the wings after drilling the holes do you add a little metal ring of sorts, like taking a small wire and spinning it on paperclip to make a loop with a short tail to glue into the hole so the wires have a place to tie to? I think I saw that on Des's site, and it seemed a real good plan...... do you do that?

    CA loves nylon monofilament. And it is also at its strongest resisting tensile forces (the reason why it is so difficult to pry your glued fingers apart). There is no real need for a hook at the end of the wire.

    Hubert

    • Like 5
    • Thanks 1
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