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Everything posted by HubertB

  1. It’s a long time since the silk in so-called silk-screens has been replaced by nylon or polyester, but the moire problem still shows up, believe me This said, moire effects in silk fabrics were sometimes sought after, and amplified by minute variations of the silk filament diameter. Hubert
  2. And some printed parts; just fresh of the curing station, and not even fully cleaned up of the supports' tabs. The cowling is VERY thin, about 0.7 mm. Some minor issues here and there, but nothing that can't be solved with a file and some putty or Mr Surfacer. Hubert
  3. 3D printers all work in the same way: they add layer after layer of the part being printed. When you have straight lines on this part, either vertical or horizontal ones, the risk is great to have visible steps between layers, if the printer is not perfectly laid flat, or if it "wobbles" by the tiniest fraction of a mm on the Z (vertical) axis. Setting the part at an angle is a way to avoid steps and having the layers more visible as the human eye unconsciously sees "lines" along the part's main axes and spot discrepancies along these. We have the same approach when tensioning silk s
  4. I wish I could post a picture of it, but I just threw the stuff away in disgust after my experience. I have woved since not to touch anything "AK primer" since. But yes, this is the acrylic base IIRC. Hubert
  5. My attempt at humour obviously misled you: AK black primer + Mr Levelling Thinner = tar-like goo in the airbrush within 5 ‘ . You are then good for a good afternoon cleaning, with all the hard stuff you can find, including acetone Hubert
  6. Mark31’s post in Ernie’s F-105 build prompted this interrogation: what is the biggest box in your stash ? The size of the box does not necessarily correlates with the size of the content, btw. Some manufacturers have an uncanny capacity to have big boxes for average-sized kits. Take for instance Revell’s Hunter kit : the box uses a lot of acres, for an aircraft that is not so big in the end, if certainly not diminutive. I’ll bite for my question : Trumpeter’s Titanic is easily the biggest box in my stash, and it’s full ! AMT’s LZ-129 kit (in 1/225) is close on its heels, but this one
  7. If you use AK’S black base, be aware that it dilutes and cleans with water. On the other hand, if you like spending an afternoon - after all we have plenty of time in these lockdown times - cleaning goo in the tiniest spots of an airbrush, you can use my goto thinner for airbrushing, i.e. Mr Levelling Thinner. Trust me when I say it’s a 100% result ... I have yet to try the MRP metal colors. Hubert
  8. Feeling pretty smug about an experiment I just ran with my EPAX 3D printer. I taxed its capacities to the limit, but it worked, with an incredibly smooth surface. The fin tip is broken because of my clumsy attempt to straighten it, but that’s a nothing. One area on the fuse got pretty thin, but I think it’s more to do with my design. And finally the transparent blue color is just the resin I had available. Some grey one is on its way. That means I can resume a stalled project that was sitting on my (virtual, as it was in the computer only) SOD ... Hubert
  9. Just got this beauty 1/32 haven is coming from Central Europe nowadays (and not from Shizuoka ) Hubert
  10. Agreed. This head has a Frankenstein dimension to it . If it’s already a Frankenstein creature, then you can just as well start chopping it ... Hubert
  11. 20 pages ... at least , plus a number of expletives and snarky personal attacks Hubert
  12. Now, THIS is the MEGA can-o-worms question ! IIRC the Mustang wings were puttied, and then painted. But the putty and paint were not applied on the whole wing (guns/ammo servicing panels are an obvious area where putty was useless, for instance). The idea was to maintain a smooth airflow and delay the onset of turbulences on the upper wing skin. Ergo the wings were puttied from roughly the LE to the main spar. Then there is the issue of in-service maintenance, wear and tear, etc. which made keeping a smooth wing for the laminar flow even more complicated ... Btw, whilst the P-51
  13. You’ll get a thinner, and more consistent layer with a spray can. Hence my suggestion of Future for a brush application (it’s also dirt cheap compared to hobby paints) If you use a spray can, some tips: 1) put it in a warm water container beforehand, and any time you pause. You’ll thus get a more consistent result across its use. The progressive decompression of the propelling gas will make the can colder and colder, and the pressure will fall faster, with risk of splutter in the end. 2) start spraying before the model, and stop after the model. This will ensure you do not have
  14. Hi Pintar, The process you describe sounds sound. "Silvering" happens when the decal carrier film shows though around the decal motif. This happens when setting decals on a matte surface, because the surface is slightly grainy (at a microscopic level), and microscopic air bubbles remain trapped between the decal film and the model surface. By spraying gloss varnish, you produce a smooth surface that is less likely to have these micro-irregularities, and the carrier film will thus optically disappear. Now, to make things even surer, I would advise you trim away the carrier f
  15. Yes. I could not find traces of an Alley Cat or Montex Bulldog. And I already have the Gamecock, albeit in different livery (just checked the stash, because memory, age, etc. ). It’s a neat little kit, btw. Thanks a lot for taking the time to peruse your stash. So, any other one who may have forgotten a lone Bulldog in his/her stash ? Hubert
  16. It must be Alleycat. IIRC, the master modeller behind Alleycat was a Polish guy who later went on to start Silver Wings. The Boomerang is not my stuff, but I mght be interested in the Alleycat Bulldog. Let me check what i fo I have. Hubert
  17. Looks like the SH Westland Whirlwind (the one with wings, not an egg-beater above) is (at last ) announced for this spring (and in case you are wondering, yes I have already spotted a civilian scheme for it ) Hubert
  18. Ah, the damages of age ... Ask me how I know Thanks for looking Hubert
  19. IMHO, the whole would not be any less impressive, and would probably look more « business-like » if it lost a few « yards » of truck chassis frame. Hubert
  20. Well, the title says it all. As the kit is now OOP, and seems rarer to find than a hen's teeth, I am looking for one. If you have one in the stash and do not think you will ever build it, please get in touch with me via PM. Many thanks in advance. Hubert
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