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Posts posted by dr_gn
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I thought that 1 or 2 years ago it had a 4-blade prop?
There are a few of them around - I think the 4-bladed prop ones have Pratt & Whitney engines fitted, the five bladed ones are the original Centaurus, (which are much rarer and more difficult to maintain engines).
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I really like the Sea Fury in Fury prototype colours, hmm perhaps I will repaint my Hobbycraft model.
Cees
The Sea Fury is always a highlight of the show for me.
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Here are a few from Farnborough last Thursday:
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Here are a few from Flying Legends, Sunday:
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This morning I contacted Vallejo about the availability of the new colors.
Received a reply before I finished my coffee after sending it....that's fantastic!
The new colors are in their january 2016 catalogue and theyre available seperately...not only in the set of 8.
It's a matter of time before they show up in shops.
This can take a while, because the shops need to update or get new/extra paint stands. Not all will do that straight away (if at all).
I can imagine shops just order paint they already have.
Vallejo will contact the importer of their paint in the Netherlands to make sure he'll have them available.
My local shop (Houtloods) will also contact the importer to get them. I already pre-ordered 6 of each
Also excited about other new RLM colors...like the RLM 81.
Rob
OK, so it turns out that since I last called in 2 weeks ago, my local hobby shop has closed down. The other UK supplier I use says the Vallejo RLM paints will be released individually in July, with UK stock available around September.
So I've gone with Tamiya paints for this one.
Thanks for the info.
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Ok thanks again, I'll try my LHS tomorrow.
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Great, thanks a lot. The designations are different from in your thread, are they the same paints or are they the "air" variants, or something else? Your model looks superb.
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Guys,
I'm going to build an FW190, with the RLM 74, 75, 76 scheme (Grey Violet, Grey Green, Light Blue).
I've seen some completed models using Vallejo RLM colours, and the contrast between the 74 and 75 was poor - they looked almost the same colour. I'd like a bit more contrast with mine.
Can anyone tell me which paints - preferably from the Vallejo or Tamiya ranges - would do the job?
Thanks!
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Very nice result - mottling looks great.
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Hi,
can't help on the attacking plastic thing, it's a pretty aggressive paint. If you sprayed directly on the plastic this can happen. But i guess you used a primer. If you used an acrylic you can get issues with Mr paint. Found out the hard way with Vallejo primer and MR. paint on top... cracks all the way. I know use Gunze surfacer 1200/1500. No issues with that.
About covarage, your right. Getting an even coat on a light base will take ages and a lot of paint. My advice would be to prime with a dark color grey or black and then build up your topcoat. But the lighter colors do take time to build up, so your mileage my vary.
Hope this helps.
Thanks for that, so I guess it's not some error in my technique or a faulty batch. I was using Tamiya Fine Surface Primer (White), which usually seems fine with most paint types.
I suppose Mr. Paint is not really suitable for large areas - it could get very expensive based on my experience. I think becasue it's a satin rather than a matt finish on these particular coulours, it isn't helping with coverage.
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I got the Mr.Paint Basic White and RAL Flourescent Red yesterday.
To be honest I'm not very impressed: Despite shaking the bottles for several minutes, and agitating them with a dropper before airbrushing, they are so thin that the white is like spraying milk. Pretty much no depth of pigment even over white primer. The red is spot-on in terms of colour, but again it would take litres of the stuff to finish my 1:12 scale F1 car. I've used about half a bottle per colour on a test piece, and they are still nowhere near solid colours. Also noticed this morning a slightly textured finish as if they have attacked the plastic in places.
I've sent a message to them asking for advice, but I doubt I will use them again, certainly not on this MP4/6 model.
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Thanks for the kind words George. Overall it was a fun build and a big learning experience.
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Sorry for the thread bump!
I've been struggling to find the correct colour for a 1:12 F1 car I'm building. It's a flourescent red (Marlboro McLaren red/orange). Someone on a car forum found the exact RAL code for this colour, so I put a request on Mr.Paint's Facebook page. Within about an hour, I got a reply that the paint would be available on around 2 weeks. Somewhat skeptical, I checked 2 weeks later and found the exact RAL flourescent red had been mixed and was available to buy. I've ordered 2 bottles, and some white, and am waiting for delivery.
That's pretty impressive service! I hope the paint turns out to be just as good; I'm sure it will be.
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Wood going to be a challenge.
Still, always up for that and it'll be my 1st use of Uschi Wood Decals - maybe should have started a bit easier but hey what the hell.
Just awaiting their arrival, ordered 5 sheets of plywood not knowing whether thats enough or not!
I used about 3 three full sheets on my woodgrain Mosquito in 1:72. There are so pictures here, and a WIP is linked in case your interested:
http://forum.largescalemodeller.com/topic/4396-172-tamiya-dehavilland-mosquito-wood-finish/
This did include a hell of a lot of trial and error (mainly error) on my part, but once you get the hang of it it's fine.
One problem I had was orientating the grain and slight colour differences on the sheet to get a symmetrical finish port:stbd. I did 'waste' a lot of decal sheet trying to do this.
FWIW, after talking to Alex at UvdR, along with my own experience, my tips are:
* Don't forget to use PVA solution to stick the decals - they don't have much adhesive left once put in water.
* Don't use Microsol - it's not really necessary, and it caused blistering on mine.
* Try to plan the finish so you don't have to mask over the decals. They will lift if given the slightest opportunity.
* Use the lightest base colour you can - it's easy to darken the finish, but pretty much impossible to lighten the grain after application.
* Cut the decal panels oversize slightly, and trim them with a new #11 blade along the panel demarcations. If you cut a decal too small, it's trash, cut it too big and you can save it. Old blades are useless for this...you will get through a lot of new blades!
* Cut small hatches and panels in-situ - it's way easier than trying to do it via. a template.
There are a lot of "woodgrain" Mosquito models out there with errors in the panel materials.The panel demarcations and orientations are in fact very difficult to figure out from photographs. I did a lot of research and I think it's a fair representation of reality, although not perfect by any means. I made an error on the crew door - it should be planked not solid. The other subtle detail is that for aircraft with an aerial mast, the circular (or oval) panel that the mast locates in on the fuselage I believe should be bakelite red, not aluminium.
Good Luck with the project - really looking forward to seeing your progress.
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Overall grey schemes can be tricky to get right, but you nailed it with this one. Great finish.
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Brilliant work - faultless finish. What a great colour.
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I loved watching this build in progress, and seeing it done is truly satisfying. Masterful work!
Thanks very much, glad you like it.
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Thanks guys !
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Thanks very much for the nice comments guys - appreciate it after such a long and tricky build.
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So here are the finished pictures:
Decals were Uschi van der Rosten WGSF48-C (Fine Veneer Plywood), WGSF48-B "Knotless Birch) and Ho-229 Special Edition (1 of 6). There were more than 160 individual pieces in total.
Metallic parts were Vallejo Air Silver, Aluminium & Steel.
Eduard belts, radiators & intake mesh.
Master Model brass machine gun barrels.
Little Lenses in various positions.
Acetate reflector gunsight.
Lead wire brake pipes.
Brass tube pitot head.
A bit of scratchbuilding in the cockpit.
Apart from that OOB. It's another great Tamiya kit.Build thread here:
http://forum.largescalemodeller.com/topic/3821-172-tamiya-mosquito-fb-mk-vi-woodgrain-finish/
Thanks for looking!- 6
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Last in-progress pic is of the rear upper nacelles being filled after fitting, and masked for final painting:
Finished pictures here:
http://forum.largescalemodeller.com/topic/4396-172-tamiya-dehavilland-mosquito-wood-finish/
Thanks for looking!
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Started final assembly tonight. I used Araldite to fix the wings - I'd thinned the spars down to give a bit of wiggle room to get a tight fit against the fuselage, and so I needed some adhesive with gap filling properties:
And fitted the u/c:
Quick check that everything was square (nothing worse than a wonky undercarriage):
Hopefully get it finished this week.- 2
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I love this build!!! Thanks for walking us through the whole process
No problem, I hope the end result is worth the effort!
Thanks for the info. I think the elevators were also fabric on early versions.
Drilled out the wing tip lamp covers and dotted some Tamiya clear red and green/blue in the holes to represent the coloured bulbs:
And added some brake lines to the u/c legs. The thick lead wire will form a couple of oil pipes from the tanks through the bulkheads:
Also painted the brass machine guns for the nose. I wrapped bits of tamiya tape around the barrels to help centre them in the oversized holes in the nose cone:
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Vallejo Fleet Air Arm Colour Advice Please
in Modelling Discussion
Posted
All, I’ve got a few WW2 FAA aircraft in the stash. I’ve got some Vallejo Model Colour paints that I think are correct in theory for the topsides (70.867 Dark Blue Grey and 70.892 Yellow Olive). However when I put them together they are very low contrast and very dark. Even though this might be correct, I’d rather have slightly lighter versions on 1:72 models - scale lightening if you like.
Has anyone got any advice for Model Colour or Model Air designations for a bit of scale fading or scale lightening for this FAA scheme please? I don’t really want to mix paints.
I notice that in the Vallejo Air FAA set, for the Swordfish the lower wings are lighter versions of the uppers (like a few RAF biplanes I think). Any advice on the true relative lightness would also be appreciated.
Thanks!