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Gloss coat before decal matt coat after to seal it in?


Pintar08
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As a beginner who just got into scale modeling and never applied decals before would this method work?:

first paint the model with enamel paint 3-4 coats then before applying the decal soak it in warm water paint the surface where i want the decal with 1 layer of thinned gloss coat from revell, place the decal and use homemade decal softener (1 part white vinegar to 8 parts water) then after the decal was set into place where i want it and conformed with the softening solution as i want it could i apply a matt clear coat over the decal to seal it in even though i used gloss clear coat underneath the decal? Should i thin matt clear coat? Could i protect the whole model with matt clear coat? Are gloss clear coat and matt clear coat from revell good as they are the only ones i have access to?

32102_smpw_farblos_matt.jpg32101_smpw_farblos_glaenzend.jpg

Thanks in advance

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Welcome to LSM Pintar and I'm sure you will be helped here because the members are resourceful and willing to share.
Your basic process sounds right, paint, gloss coat, decals, solvents if necessary and then sealing with a varnish. 
Since I never worked with Revell colours, I can't tell you how they perform, but generally it is good thinking to develop a good working solution for the hole process for yourself with testing the stages. There are many hidden obstacles, like do the decals tend to silver, how thick are they,... Some products don't interact well, like gloss coat and decal solvents, some are too aggressive for the clear coat (I don't know about vinegar.
The basic idea of an underlying gloss coat for decals is, to reduce the possibility of silvering, where the decal would not set properly to a matte surface and to enhance the adhesion for the decal. It has not to be a clear coat, if e.g. the model received a gloss colour paintjob.
The final varnishing is done to blend decals and surface together, so you don't have a different shine on the decals, than the rest of the surfaces. It is also applied as a protection of all primary stages of painting and decaling for the weathering process, be it with pigments, oils, washes, panel liners, ...
It depends on the type of model and personal preferences, if that varnish should be matte, semi matte or gloss.

The base line remains the same, try to find a working solution for yourself through testing. It helps through your modelling career. There are too many influences, to be discussed in on thread, It starts, with the question of primer or not, types of colours, in your case enamel, laquers or acrylics and it ends with the tools, airbrush or brush.

You see, there is no simple answer to your question, but developing your process is rewarding and assuring for the future.

I hope, I could help a little with my vague answer.

Cheers Rob

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Hi Pintar,

The process you describe sounds sound.

"Silvering" happens when the decal carrier film shows though around the decal motif. This happens when setting decals on a matte surface, because the surface is slightly grainy (at a microscopic level), and microscopic air bubbles remain trapped between the decal film and the model surface.

By spraying gloss varnish, you produce a smooth surface that is less likely to have these micro-irregularities, and the carrier film will thus optically disappear.

Now, to make things even surer, I would advise you trim away the carrier film by cutting the decal as close as possible to the actual motif.

When everything is settled, spraying a coat a matte varnish is the right thing to do if you want a matt finish for your kit.

Rob's recommendations are all sound, especially testing. We use a lot chemicals in our kits, and very often overlook the possible interactions between some and others, like paints.

Finally, I have read that you have only access to Revell varnishes. I confess it's a long time I have used these. Plus you do not say if you spray (my assumption) or brush the varnish.

If you can there are some worthy alternatives to go hunting for :

-Tamiya X-22 gloss varnish or TS-13 in a rattle can,

- Future (according to countries it can also be called Pledge or Klear) is a floor protection product. It is astounding in its results when applied to kits. And it works great applied with a brush.

- You can also look for in art stores for oil painting varnishes. A number of my buddies use them with success.

- Finally, there are plenty of other "brews" for varnishing kits, but I confess I have no knowledge of how most work.

HTH

Hubert

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Hey guys, appreciate the answers

I didnt manage to get a airbrush kit yet so i am using brushes to paint my models and enamel paints.

Would it be wise to get a gloss clear coat in a spray can or should i stick to the stuff for brushes and airbrush kits? Also do i need to thin these paints? I know its necessary to thin paints when airbrushing, is it the same with regular brushes?

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You’ll get a thinner, and more consistent layer with a spray can. Hence my suggestion of Future for a brush application (it’s also dirt cheap compared to hobby paints)

If you use a spray can, some tips: 

1) put it in a warm water container beforehand, and any time you pause. You’ll thus get a more consistent result across its use. The progressive decompression of the propelling gas will make the can colder and colder, and the pressure will fall faster, with risk of splutter in the end.

2) start spraying before the model, and stop after the model. This will ensure you do not have paint build-up on the kit when starting spraying.

Hubert

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