1/18 SAS Jeep

[DRUMS01]

While I started posting this on another site, several of you asked me to include it here. It started off as a die-cast from Solido. I will tell you up front that this will not be a simple paint job and add stuff, instead it will be a complete rework and modification hopefully worthy for this site.

While some of the stuff is there, it is not very detailed, painted correctly, or just plain accurate. I mean come on, look at the front tarp, or the jerry cans, or even the bags on the side. Look at the gap and holes between the dash and bonnet (hood). I could go on, but you got the idea. It is also very sterile when the actual SAS jeeps had a well worn and saturated look to them like the photos below.

This 1/18 Solido SAS jeep is a rather rare find. I can normally locate one for every 1,000 regular WW2 variants. Prices for the SAS Jeep usually ranges around $45.00 USD and up, but deals can be found if your patient enough. Some of the less than desirable portions of this toy were:

- poorly molded tarps and gig bags 
- mixture of black and tan soft plastic with a painted metal body (different mediums and shades)
- M2 machine gun molded out of scale (far too small)
- many items incorrect or in the wrong locations, example radiator overflow can
- terrible mold lines, cast seams, and ejection pin marks everywhere
- greasy/oily soft plastic parts that do not like modification
- many items lacking any detail
- large holes and gaps in the die-cast body mold as it is used for numerous versions by Solido
- toy-like chassis with several items either missing or only showing half or no detail
- terrible lump of plastic between the rear jerry cans, suppose to be a tarp covering storage

I'm also learning that finding anything in 1:18 scale to detail this with is difficult. While there are "toy' items available, there is nothing in the modeling contingent in 1:18 for this kind of build. Likewise, when looking at 120mm items; many items listed as 120mm are not consistently 120mm. Also some of the stuff listed as 1/16 is noticeably larger than 1/18 and can't be used. I've ordered some items from ROL models that I hope will be close enough to scale. There is another on-line vendor called Marauder that makes toy accessories which might be improved upon to use.

First was to fully disassemble the die-cast and plastic components without breaking anything. When tearing it down, I also took a moment to remove the long screw attach points on the plastic chassis that kept it on the toy base. Once fully apart I started on the engine. Looking at photos of the early M151 Jeep, the drive line did not change during the war to speak of. Here is a view of the actual engine. This shows a good view of the horn trumpet, radiator hoses, carb, fuel pump, and manifolds. I will have to scratch build a horn, fuel pump and bowl, lower radiator hose, radiator reinforcement rod, oil filler tube, and some other stuff.

The complete left side of the engine block did not exist on the die-cast, so I added it and the access panel too from plastic sheet. You can also see part of the rear bell housing in the photo that does not exist on the plastic part of the kit so I added it as well. 

On the other side of the engine is the distributor, air cleaner element, oil filler, battery and perhaps the regulator(?). All of this will also have to be scratch built, and more. Note that the battery is not vintage but a modern cell type:

And here it is with the previously identified corrections; most everything has been made and added to include the exhaust, corrections to the carburetor, radiator hose (less clamps), distributor, rear bell housing, alternator clamp, oil fill tube, fuel pump / bowl, and several other items.

And here is the completed engine. All the base coats are done. All that remains is some hose clamps, decals, weathering and wear.

Regarding an SAS jeep, I noticed that some were set-up as a command jeep (radio kit and the like), others were one or two gun recon or staff vehicles, and some like I am making were the "gunny" or weapons jeeps (maximum firepower). Looking closely at various photos of the period you can see items on the SAS vehicle from the U.S., British, Germans, and just about anything else that could serve the need. I think that's what I like about these vehicles, everything not needed was stripped off and anything desired for the mission was added; sort of no frills and all purpose machine. I made a decision to remove the plastic square lump from between both racks of gas cans in the rear. I think it added very little for the large space it took up. Also, I am considering adding a person in the back on the M2 MG so the space was needed. 

The immediate problem when removing the square lump was the two protrusions coming up through the floorboard that attached the square blob with jerry cans to the jeep (see below). The are three opening cut in the floor and two reinforcement bars molded into the die-cast protruding above the floorboard too. The M2 50 cal. mount was a part of the square blob previously removed, and it was actually hovering above the floor. In this photo I started adding the reinforced M2 50 cal MG floor mount. I think I have a solution for this lumps and bumps coming through the floor that I will show later.

Talking about major holes or cut outs, I also added a thin sheet of plastic to the front of the top firewall (Under the front bonnet). Prior to adding it there were six different holes and cuts including the two I kept for the dogleg hinges of the bonnet. I believe they were there to be used with other jeep variants that the mold was used for. 

While working on the front of the jeep I also observed that nearly all of the SAS jeeps had several of the grill bars on the jeeps removed (usually keeping the center two). Based on the real vehicles photos I did the same to the die-cast body. This photo shows the jeep body sitting on the yet to be reworked chassis. If you look closely, you can see the horn I added to the right firewall as your looking at it. Also the front bumper has been modified too.

Before moving on to another complicated assembly I used my home made punch set to make some headlight covers which will be painted in a close but not exact color for the jeep.

The toy has the coolant overflow / expansion tank mounted on the left front bumper. Every photo I could find shows the tank mounted to the grills right corner, or the opposite side and different location. Looking at the radiator it is clear that the expansion can should be on the right to tie into the overflow drain tube. After cutting the tank from the bumper I added the mounting bracket using thin sheet plastic to replicate the real metal bands. Along with the mounting straps I also added a filler cap and a mark for the tube that will be between the radiator and the tank. I will also be adding a metal bent breather tube.

In order to fix or in this case replace the front canvas tarp roll it needed to be removed. I used a Tamiya thin blade razor saw to separate the jerry cans from the front "jelly roll". Once removed it left a large open space for the bottom of the cans. Looking at the side of the end cans it appears that they are placed in a custom made shelving bracket. My solution was to add a bottom to the bracket assembly, here is the result.

Here is my replacement for the front canvas/jelly roll. I purchased it several years ago for in a package used on another large scale model. Once properly trimmed and sanded to sit against the cans, this is what it looks like. I will have to do something with the end of the jerry can tie down strap as it looks far to neat or fake.

Then came the painting of the tarp(s). I am showing them with the Solido toy canvas beside them for comparison.

Here are the reworked seats (they were previously glossy tan plastic). The setbacks were hollow so I added sheet plastic cut to shape to fill between the metal seat brackets. Here are the canvas seats 75% of the way done (less additional weathering and wear).

While waiting for my after market items to arrive I took a moment to modify the smaller M2 MG that came with the die-cast and turned it into a M1919 30 cal MG. This included a new mount, complete barrel with metal liner, and trigger assembly which were all built from scratch. The M1919 ammo can was from spares. I think I am going to use this as a drivers MG mount (directly behind the left front fender). I have seen a couple like that in vintage photos.

All this scratch building is reminding me how long this stuff takes compared to taking something off the sprue and glueing it to another part. Well, here are the M2 and M1919 for what I will call done, except the paint and weathering. M1919 less the side mounting hardware that is applied to the jeep (from scratch). I see I still need to clean-up the ammo can seam and details.

Next is the updates to the M2 50 cal MG. Not sure why, but I kept the post from the die-cast that would attach to the base, other than it was the correct diameter. Next I removed the toy mounting hardware buy cutting it from the top of the post. The post was then center drilled and the mount that came with the new weapon was added. The bottom larger shank of the post was added for two reasons; the first was to match source photos of a thicker or reinforced post base, and the second reason was to be able to adjust the height of the complete gun mount. This is an image of a modern mount, but many of the components exist on the WW2 models. NOTE: While it is more complex and shows reinforcement legs at the base, mine will be an earlier model without the extra legs (hence the reinforced base).

The pedestal pintle cradle assembly is two parts. The first part is molded onto the M2 's lower receiver. The second part that allows it to traverse and elevate came with the replacement M2. It is way too simple and will need detailed. For the most part, here is what I'm after. This photo shows the mounting pins with chains, the large center pin nut, cradle base level adjustment bolt and optional holes, and the charging handle.

These images clearly show the ammo can mount along with the the pintle traverse locking handle. Also look at the various diameters of the pintle shaft.

Along with the new toy M2 I purchased a detail set from Aber. While not specific to this M2 BMG, it will work just fine. The kit comes with a new machine turned brass barrel, turned and drilled barrel vent guard, charging handle, and a small PE sheet for the front and rear sights as well as trigger assembly.

Even though I am still in the process of upgrading the gun assembly, you can see the scratch build progress to the gun pedestal. I started on the scratch work for the ammo can mount. I also removed the toy barrel and added the brass one. Also check out the turned and drilled barrel sleeve. 

Here are some baby steps on finishing the M2 50 cal. 

- Added the barrel shroud, three part barrel handle, and rear sights

- On the other end of the weapon I added the remainder of the trigger assembly (mostly from scratch), bolts, nuts, bits, elevation lock, etc.

- Finished the ammo box tray and sprung box holder

Here are both of them together awaiting paint.

The twin Vickers MG's did not have as much opportunity to embellish them as they are rather simple in design, lumps and bumps. With that said I was still able to replace the solid and undefined plastic beveled barrel ends with very thin hollow aluminum rod. While at the front I also added front sight protectors to both barrels. Down at the center of each gun and just in front of the magazines I added a flat bar to tie both guns together to allow the large single sights. As for the sights I added a small circle to the front and a large cross hair for the rear. Working my way back I added a charging handle to the lower left of each receiver as it had nothing. Last was the rear reinforcement bar (just in front of and below the trigger assemblies), to tie both weapons together. The pintle and mounting brackets were very simple compared to the M2 and M1919 MG's and bolt heads were added at the pivot points. The only item remaining is to add a simulated leather strap to the tops of the magazines. Overall I am very happy with them.

After looking EVERYWHERE for months I can say there are no magazine / drums for a vickers "K" air cooled machine gun in 1/18 scale. Well, on second thought, there are a couple different 3d printed guns with 2-4 mags in Shapeways for $80 USD. I refuse to pay that prince just to use a couple mags, so you know me, time to scratch build a couple. First I tried using an old pair of round automotive air filters as a base, but they just would not cooperate. Next attempt was to simply punch out several round disc's from plastic sheet, but I do not have any kind of brass to steel rod to use as the punch. The scale/size is the initial challenge along with keeping them round while shaping them. My third attempt proved more successful. I am starting off with metal flat washers in the same diameter of the magazines already found on the toy guns. Next I glue them onto some sheet plastic. Once dry I cut around the washer and sand it to the shape of the washer (they help keep it perfectly symmetrical. 

And now the challenge of building up the details on top of the drum. To replicate the raised area on the outside of the drum I used solder coiled around a dowel and cut to make circles. They were carefully attached to make the outside circumference. Next was using smaller punches to make the layers of relief for the center top. Then after several failed attempts of making perfectly uniformed rivets, I chose to drill them instead. My thought is since they are only going to be marginally seen and away from the MG, the relief once painted should not be noticable, at least I hope. The last step was to use some lead tooling foil and a specific width of plastic. I cut strips from the foil and wrapped them around the plastic to make four scale leather straps for the top of the drums. Last was to paint them flat black, then dry brush silver over the tops to raise the details. Next was to paint the leather straps. Here is the final result:

Thats about it for now, next update soon.

Ben

[biggtim]

Wicked damn cool!

[DRUMS01]

I am really excited about the build as I finally got my orders from China and Australia. My plan is to modify the figures to fit the jeep and change out the heads to reflect a couple of SAS soldiers wearing berets. Each figure came unassembled with a two part lower torso with a leg, a center body, two arms, and a head. While they were designed for a jeep, it certainly wasn't this jeep. After some heavy clean-up and removing the large blocks usually found on these kind of resin figures I was ready to begin. First was the driver, after assembling the legs with lower torso I had to heat and bend them to fit the seat, steering shaft, and floorboard. Next was changing the arm positions by about 1/8 in to properly fit the steering wheel and side of the jeep body. Last was the shaping of his bum to fit the seat without hovering in the air. Here is what he looks like:

The heads that came with these figures will not work for two British lads so I ordered separate heads from ROL Models (with the berets). With one figure almost how I want them posed, I began working on the second figure. He is going to be standing behind the driver and leaning on the M2 50 cal MG. The same process was performed (heat, bend, trim, shape, glue, etc). Once I was satisfied with the second figure I needed to adjust the height of the 50 cal mount. After 4 attempts I think I finally got it how I want it, check it out:

Here are some other bits I've been working on as part of the overall assembly.

Several things going on here, such as:

- added radiator overflow tank with plumbing and bolts to radiator

- finished the bracket on the left front fender for a tactual light that was removed

- added the 30 cal MG mount to the driver's sided-section

The next detailed correction I had to fix was the front bonnet / hood clamps. The photo below is how it came from Solido other than the faded black line around it that I initially added before deciding on making them from scratch.

The first thing to do was remove the bumps from the bonnet.

With a combination of brass aluminum, plastic, solder, and PE I was able to closely replicate a set of hood clamps. Here they are showing the three part lower hinge attached to the hood (it was easier than trying add them to the fender as then they would have to be functional). The "T" handle spring assembly is made up of two brass rods, one inserted into the other, and shaped plastic handles. Next I made-up the hood latches from scrap PE connectors; they were simply bent in a "U" shape to fit under the "T" handle. And here they are added to the hood. While not fully functional or perfect, I think they are a definite improvement over the generic lumps molded into the die-cast. 

I did find a 1/18 standing SAS soldier in the desert uniform, but I am not sure how he would look with the two I already have that are not in the tropical wear. I am thinking of adding it to a mini diorama, similar to the one I made for the kubelwagen, but with a desert theme. If you have any ideas for the diorama please let me know. I will most likely be making sand bags from milli-put or modeling clay. I ordered some items from another vendor (Marauder) to add more details which include a WW2 field radio with handset, several German stick grenades, a couple British small ammo pouches, canteen, and satchel with strap (haversack). Like I previously mentioned, I do not know how accurate versus toy like they will be until they arrive. 

Next I added rounded bolt heads for each of the four tie-down brackets around the back half of the jeep. After de-seaming the brackets I filed the mounting points to something more scale appropriate then I added very small drops of medium super glue to simulate the rounded bolt heads. Other items I accomplished on the build to this point:

- created and added reinforcement under the front fenders according to source images
- created and added reinforcement sheet metal (plastic) in rear fender wells per photos
- created and added various bolt heads around the jeep body
- researched locations and photos for body mounts and tie-downs for canvas top
- researched, created and bent solder to replicate the rest of the exhaust
- added the new exhaust to the bottom skid plate 
- acquired and added rear tow hitch
- fabricated and added tow chain hoops to rear bumper
- fabricated and added twin shackle points to the front bumper
- drilled and bent and added copper wire to replicate radiator overflow tube
- removed blob from top of radiator and added an accurate radiator cap from spares
- cut plastic strip to replicate the continuation of the main chassis frames beside the engine
- researched detail photos for the steering box to be scratch built
- research and obtained detail photos of chassis cross braces and bolt head locations
 

Back to the figures, I would say well over 70% wore the Shemagh when in the desert. With that said, I did see a few using either a beret or the saucer cap instead as well as coveralls or long pants and long sleeve shirts:

Considering the dress code in the above photos I thought the figures I am using would still fit with the theme of the build. Below is what was more commonly worn by the SAS desert rats.

I think I should be painting the berets either beige or Maroon, is that correct? Also for future builds, can anyone confirm the following information regarding UK beret colors. If this is correct I want to keep it for my reference standard:

- Maroon - The Parachute Regiment, also attached arms of 16 Air Assault Brigade.

- Commando Green - The Royal Marines and those attached ranks who have passed the All Arms Commando Course.

- Black - The Royal Tank Regiment and The Westminster Dragoons.

- Cyprus Green - The Intelligence Corps - Nicknamed the ‘Green Slime’ within the Army.

- Light Blue - The Army Air Corps.

- UN Blue - Worn with the UN badge by those deployed on a UN peacekeeping tour.

- Medium Green - The Adjutant General's Corps.

- Rifle Green - The Rifles (light infantry by tradition), The Small Arms School Corps, the Royal Ghurka Rifles, the Essex Yeomanry.

- Khaki- Worn by many infantry regiments including the Scots Guards, Irish Guards, Grenadier Guards, Coldstream Guards, Welsh Guards, Honourable Artillery Company, 4/73 Special OP Battery (RA), Royal Gibraltar Regiment, Yorkshire Regiment, Duke of Lancasters Regiment, Royal Welsh, Royal Anglian Regiment and Princess of Wales Royal Regiment, also attached arms to these regiments often use the Khaki Beret.

- Beige (often misnamed sand) - Worn by 22 SAS, 21 SAS, 23 SAS, 264 (SAS) Signal Squadron and 63 (SAS) Signal Squadron (V), also attached arms who are not Special Forces trained wear this beret when serving with the SAS. Not sure whether 18 (SF) Signal Regiment also all wear beige.

- Scarlet - The Royal Military Police.

- Navy Blue - Worn by the 9/12th Lancers, Army Legal Service, Corp of Army Music, Royal Electrical and Mechanical Engineers, Royal Engineers, Light Dragoons, Queens Own Yeomanry, Royal Army Veterinary Corps, Royal Corps of Signals, Royal Dragoon Guards, Royal Logistic Corps, Royal Artillery, Queens Dragoon Guards, The Royal Mercian and Lancastrian Yeomanry, Military Provost Staff, Royal Regiment of Fusiliers, C (City of London Fusiliers) Company, the Army Physical Training Corps, Royal Army Medical Corps, Royal Army Dental Corps (RADC), The Blues and Royals and The Life Guards.

- Grey - Queen Alexandra’s Royal Army Nursing Corps, Royal Scots Dragoon Guards

- Irish Green - Royal Dragoon Guards and Queens Royal Hussars, The Royal Irish Regiment technically don’t wear a beret they wear the Irish Caubeen.

- Navy Blue - The Royal Navy.

- RAF Blue - The RAF Regiment and the RAF itself.

- Brown - Kings Royal Hussars and Royal Wessex Yeomanry
 

Before moving on to the chassis and drive train, I wanted to finish the major modifications and updates to the jeep body. One of the first items to fix were the ugly screw anchor points. Two of them could be seen in previous photos and here are pictures with them removed.

Before moving on to the chassis I started reworking the remainder of the body issues by doing the following actions:

- filed and filled the ejection marks under the bonnet.
- trimmed and filled the previous mounting pins in the hood.
- added the bracing beneath the bonnet.
- painted and weathered the bonnet.

 

The main body was repainted and then lightly weathered and chipped to reflect wear and usage but not neglect. 
 

Next up is the many modifications to the chassis, stay tuned and thanks for watching.

Ben

 

[DRUMS01]

Continuing to get everyone up to speed on where I am with this toy to model conversion. It is time to begin the work on the M151 chassis. Here is what it looked like after disassembly and prior to any modifications. You can see the location up front by the transmission and mid way back between the chassis frames. Those are to spots where I removed the extra long posts that were molded in to hold the toy to its display base. On the back of the chassis you can also see where I started to add a hitch. The wheels were a challenge to remove without permanently damaging or destroying the spindle or chassis mount, so I am keeping them attached and will modify around them.

And the other side where you can still see part of the soft black plastic representing the tie rod. All of the differentials, drive shafts, axles, springs, shocks, are all in the extra soft glossy black plastic. You can also see the other ugly attach points to fix the chassis to the die-cast body, those will also be removed. 

In the following photos you can see some of the scratch building done to the chassis and modifications such as removing large parts of the molded in flat space around the engine and between the main chassis spars;  adding the correct sheet metal, nuts, and bolts; fabricating the steering box the the box mount on the frame.

Up front I added towing shackle points to the front bumper and a welded tow ring. I saw this set-up on one of the armored SAS jeeps of the period.

Here you can see the beginnings go the steering box. If you look close you can also see the new radiator cap and overflow tube.

In this photo you can see the adding of the tow chain loops and the correction between the frame rails. You can also see the beginning of the creation of a new transfer case as the one with the toy was on a half relief and toy like in detail. The screw holding the rear differential in place will be removed later and the space filled / corrected.

 

Here is a major portion of the scratch built transfer case. Here you can also see where I am pealing back the flat dead space around the engine (still more to do in removing that area).

The front and rear drive shafts were soft black plastic without any accurate details, so I removed them and created new ones from brass, plastic, and aluminum. Here are the new ones being created. You can also see the beginning of the corrections to the front differential (where the screw was).

At this point the following has been things have been done:

- drilled and bent and redirected a copper wire to replicate radiator overflow tube (again)
- corrected the hollow back of the radiator with screen
- added guard around radiator from scratch
- removed blob from top of radiator and added an accurate radiator cap from spares
- cut plastic strip to replicate the continuation of the main chassis frames beside the engine
- removed solid plastic from under engine and front chassis

You may also notice that my first scratch built bell housing and transmission has been replaced with another one, shown here. It is still a WIP as the top of the transfer case needs to be created along with modifications to the lower firewall to allow for the proper space for the previously mentioned items. 

In this picture you can see the following updates:

- finished the rework of the chassis, other than a couple little things and some final painting or weathering.
- completed the replacement of the toy drive shafts with ones using using brass, solder, and plastic for the U-joints. 
- removed the screws from the differentials and completed their rework. 
- added other parts to the engine and ran basic fuel lines to the carburetor.
- weathered the engine and added it to the chassis.
- added the second scratch built transmission to the body and chassis.
- created and added the last part of the transfer case.
- added the top case to the transfer case and rear of the transmission.
- began the weathering to include mud/dirt on the chassis.
- started the wear, discoloration, and chipping on the wheels.
- many other little things I can no longer remember (smile).

Because of how I am planning on displaying the jeep once completed, I decided not to rework the wheel drums or add brake lines and they will not be seen. When setting the body on the chassis I could still see items missing that were not part of the toy, such as the voltage regulator or fuel filter that reside in the engine compartment on the right fender and right firewall respectively. Here are the initial creations of those parts:

Here are some more of the items that will find their way into the model before completion.

During this phase I also created the throttle linkage and line; detailed the battery along with adding the positive and ground cables; and created the radiator and firewall mounts for the bracing rod. Before adding the body to the chassis I began final work for the body mounts as well as various nuts and bolts. 
When test fitting of the body and chassis I found that the tight tolerances of the steering box and exhaust would not allow the body and chassis to mate properly. After looking closer at the problem I found that the exhaust I made was incorrect. It should exit the engine bay in front of and to the right of the steering arm. I also found that the bend I created for the exhaust I previously attached to the skid plate was also incorrect. Once those parts were removed the body and chassis fit just fine. After the last bit of weathering and wear I attached the body to the chassis with CA glue as the screw attach point are now long gone. Once the joint had dried to a strong bond I began the finishing of the engine bay. First I added the battery along with the ground wire to the chassis and the positive to the starter. Next was adding the voltage regulator to the fender the ran the wires to the engine. Next was adding the fuel strainer to the firewall and its lines back to the gas tank and to the fuel pump. The throttle linkage was next, adding it to the right side of the carburetor and snaking the line to the lower firewall towards the accelerator. The next detail item was the bracing rod from the firewall to the radiator (across the flat spot on the air cleaner tube). After some final washes and dry brushing here is the results (the only thing remaining is the decals):

In many of the photos I found a 5-6 foot length of Marson Mat (also known as Marsdon matting) attached to the back of the spare tires. It was used to get the jeep recovered when stuck in the sand. My problem is I have nothing even close to make it from. Surprise, surprise when walking through a craft isle in Hobby Lobby (chain craft store in the USA), I found some perforated aluminum sheet that I thought could work if cut and modified. 

Here it is cut bent and thin sheet plastic strips added. I think more sanding is needed to soften the plastic edges before moving forward

And here it is up to this point.

I still have to recreate a new exhaust; modify the driver (more); get and finish the radio set; paint and decal some items (ammo cans, air and oil filters, etc.); recreate and paint all new straps for the jerry cans and other items tied to the jeep, complete the Marson mat, acquire the final missing parts, finish assembly and paint of the figures, add all the components to the jeep, and start on the display base.

Till next time, Merry Christmas, stay healthy, love well, and model something.

Ben

[DRUMS01]

Not much feedback coming, so I will just keep pushing along. After sanding the Marson Mat smoothing the plastic edges I then applied base coats to see if further shaping was needed. I think a little more is needed then a repaint.

Next I created a new exhaust from the engine to the skid plate. This was a rework from something I tried earlier. The new exhaust was needed to allow for the steering box and link to fit properly. It has been added, painted, weathered, etc.

Another rework item completed was a modification to the drivers foot that is resting on the side of the jeep. It was interfering with the M1919 post brace (travel lock). After the foot surgery I still had to slightly modify the travel lock bar as well. Both the foot and bar have been repainted. 

- Completed the work on the jerry cans, both on the bonnet and in the rear rack. The cans on the bonnet have a tarp laid over them with a shovel and axe on top with tie-downs holding it all together. The tarp is thin lens cleaning cloth that was painted and shadowed prior to the implements being placed on it. Both implements (the axe and shovel) are modified from a 1/18 Sherman Tank toy. The tank tie down straps and mounting bars were removed from the implements and then reshaped into what you see here. I used a razor knife to replicate some wood grain that was brought out with some washes. The cloth strap over the jerry cans replaced the terrible (fake) looking raised plastic strip molded into the plastic. It is actually 1/8 inch border / ribbon from a sewing store that has been painted. Last was the small straps (scaled to be 1/2 inch straps) that I created using Tamiya masking tape with the sticky sides pressed together and then cut to width. The metal strap tie-downs are spares from my P.E. stash. The straps were applied with CA glue after being painted and washed. The last step was to add the previously painted rolled tarp to the front of the hood/bonnet. This is what I ended up with and I am satisfied to this point.

Speaking of the hood, I finished the washes and placement of wiring or hoses, including radiator hose clamps under the hood. I have not decided but I may add a couple decals in here for some of the components (battery, oil - fuel - and gas filter, voltage regulator, etc.)

I also used the 1/8 border cloth to rework the straps on the rear and side jerry cans as well. Both the rear and side cans also had holding brackets added to them by using sheet plastic cut into strips and glued to simulate the metal rack used to secure them in the vehicle. The cans were painted to simulate various tan colors used within the operational theater and black for the water cans. They were then pick painted to reflect chipping and wear along with a sandy dirt wash. 

In this photo you can also see the M2 tri-pod and ammo crate added to the rear stowage area along with the jerry cans on the fender.

Next update will be the new radio set I just received from Shapeways. Till then thanks for looking, and feedback is encouraged.

Ben

[DRUMS01]

This update is for adding the radio set. The purchased from Shapeways provide to be a good one. It is very accurate in size and details when compared to source photos. As previously mentioned the material did not like CA glue or acrylic or enamel paints, even after a thorough wash and scrub (?). The item came as a four piece set which consists of the radio, fender mount, antenna base, and RT headset.

Here are some photos of an actual radio set:

And after some painting and light detailing, here it is:

I made the angle iron brace for the fender mount from two pieces of cut strip plastic. Here it is mounted with the antenna cable made from solder and added. The radio face and clamps were washed, dry brushed and detailed picked with a hairy stick. Afterwards I sourced some decals from my spares. The cable from the power supply is also solder and the fitting from spares. Overall I am happy with the results. In the photos you can see that the M2 MG mount has been installed, ammo cans pushed into the available spaces by the jerry cans, and my completed mason mat has been added to the back of jeep against the tires.

Here is a better view of the completed Marsden Matting attached to the rear:

Starting finishing the little things. My first update is the Vickers MG. I was not satisfied with the initial base coat and dry brush. After cleaning it up a little more I applied gunmetal instead of flat black then a lighter and more even dry brush to the barrels and receiver. I believe I also mentioned I may paint the side of the ammo drums to match what was seen during the period. Once painted I applied a dirty wash and some chipping. The front sight was painted red and the hand grips a dark wood (some during the period were also a black plastic). Well, I decided to call it quits on the Vickers before I mess it up, here they are:

When looking at many of the period photos it is common to see a rope wrapped around the front bumper. I tried several methods to mock up something to resemble scale rope. I found yard and string to be to hairy. I decided to try rolling some solder together to make a possible rope. Then I bought a waxed shoe lace. At last I settled on a nylon thread (size 8). It was easy to cut and glue the ends to prevent any fray. When comparing them, the nylon is definitely the way to go, it is the second one from the top:

More little things included some decals in the engine compartment:

While starting on the figures I decided to add a little something.Here is something fun I made from scratch, a wrist watch for the driver and gunner:

Now it was time to apply some of the smaller items I gained from after-market, spares, or scratch. Looking close you will see numerous bags, ammo cans, tarp, maps, British canteen, C rations, German grenades, and more. One area I chose to add a little extra was applying straps to the bags, canteen and the like. They were made from lead foil, painted, and washed. I think it is starting to look more like an SAS jeep, yes?

Well, thats it for this update. I hope everybody has a happy and healthy new year.

Ben

[Peterpools]

Ben

Amazing build and the detail work is fantastic. Looking so good

Keep ‘em comin
PETER

[DRUMS01]

Thanks Peter, your comments and interest is well received. Also a belated hello to Biggtim and thank you as well. 

After much research I started adding the base colors to the figures uniforms. They are going to be the standard British brown, the load bearing gear will be light brown or tan, and the berets maroon (thanks to RangerNeil's authentication). I had a tough time trying to authenticate the boot gaiters (?- canvas wrap around the top of the boot). I found that they had a color similar to OD Green, a brown, and a tan; depending on the uniform being work or theater of operation. From what I could locate it appears that the north Africa or Mediterranean areas had both tan and green, while the European theater had green or the dark brown. Mine will be either tan or green. You can see in the various photos below, (some are rein actors), that various colors of gaiters were used.

The center M2 50 floor mount was finally added. This was actually done prior to adding all the other "stuff" shown in the previous update. I did this so I could better prepare and finalize the location for the trooper manning it. Here are a couple pictures of how it will look eventually, but there is still much to do.

Here is the beginning of painting and shading on both figures. 

Along with the various washes, dry brushing, and shades of paint, additional items were secured to better detail the figures:

After some time detailing the figures I finally added the driver to the jeep. If you look closely you can also see the M1919 30cal. MG added to the left front of the driver (on the jeep). Here he is mostly done but still requiring minor tough-ups, dull coat, and pastels. The SAS beret sash proved impossible to find in scale, so I printed it, sealed it with satin clear, and applied it using white glue.

All the weapons and figures have been added. I will wait for the final pastel and weathering until a display base is completed. I hope those following along have enjoyed the build. Special thanks to RangerNeil for his special SAS knowledge and clarification. Here is what it looks like to this point:

As always, thanks for following along. Your interest, participation, feedback is always appreciated. 

Ben

[Mike in Sydney]

AMAZING!!!!

[Kaireckstadt]

Copy Mike, great work! 

[Peterpools]

Ben

Add me to the list - fantastic work and your research for accuracy left no stone unturned. Realistic weathering and attention to detail adds up to some amazing Modeling.

Keep ‘em comin

Peter

[Landlubber Mike]

Ben, your work is absolutely fantastic.  The attention to detail(s) is incredible.  Love the figures you included, and the Vickers looks really amazing.  Netflix just added another WWII in color series.  I just finished the war in north Africa episode - your jeep looks like it could jump right into it!