Landlubber Mike Posted September 22 Share Posted September 22 Looks great Chris! Nice job on the camo, wow! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CANicoll Posted September 22 Author Share Posted September 22 Peter and Carl, Thank you!! I have some touch up where my final masking was a little over the line, but otherwise it is an interesting look. I ended up using RLM 66 as the final color to get a stronger difference in color. Also need to paint the yellow fuselage band around the tail. 8 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PanzerWomble Posted September 22 Share Posted September 22 I can't imagine what this crazy paintscheme did to the minds of the "oh so Korrect" Feldwebels ... Reminds me of assembly ships ! Looking good 👍 3 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CANicoll Posted September 22 Author Share Posted September 22 7 minutes ago, PanzerWomble said: I can't imagine what this crazy paintscheme did to the minds of the "oh so Korrect" Feldwebels ... Reminds me of assembly ships ! Looking good 👍 It is not exactly a faithful copy of the Luftwaffe camo scheme, but it is different. Thanks - you are right. It does kind of look like the Assembly ships camo! 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peterpools Posted September 22 Share Posted September 22 Chris Some mighty nice progress and the scheme is so different ... looks awesome. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CANicoll Posted September 22 Author Share Posted September 22 Thanks Peter! Appreciate the kind comments. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CANicoll Posted September 24 Author Share Posted September 24 Continuing with the finish, Applied Tamiya X-22 which is my go-to clear gloss these days. Thinned about 50% with Mr. Color Leveling Thinner. It goes on a bit splotchy when I lay down a wet coat, but then it smooths out beautifully. Dries pretty quickly for handling too (couple of hours). Painted the yellow Fuselage band last night after ghosting it with a white base. What is interesting is that the colors here look yellow, black/grey and green. The 'green' is actually a light grey. I'll check my photo settings... Have a bit of overspray touch-up on the underside. And the bits and bobs as well. I have successfully hung on to both aileron counterweights, and have only knocked off one of them. And found that one. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlrwestSiR Posted September 24 Share Posted September 24 Definitely has a bit of a psychedelic look to it. Which will make it stand out next to the usual camo schemes. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peterpools Posted September 24 Share Posted September 24 Chris Super progress and looking mighty good. Congrats on only knocking off one of the counterbalances - now that's an accomplishment. Color issue most likely is the white balance was off and or the lighting was mixed and cameras have a hard time dealing with that. Easiest way to avoid these issues, try and use daylight bulbs (5000K) in your model room and Auto WB in the camera if you don't do post work; I always shoot in RAW and do post in both Adobe Lightroom and Photoshop - way too complicated if you're not into photography and a camera guy. BTW, using Daylight bulbs is a must when building and painting as the colors will look much closer to true. Normal builds are either too warm (yellowish) or too cold (bluish). 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CANicoll Posted September 24 Author Share Posted September 24 12 hours ago, BlrwestSiR said: Definitely has a bit of a psychedelic look to it. Which will make it stand out next to the usual camo schemes. No wonder I have a headache... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CANicoll Posted September 24 Author Share Posted September 24 3 hours ago, Peterpools said: Chris Super progress and looking mighty good. Congrats on only knocking off one of the counterbalances - now that's an accomplishment. Color issue most likely is the white balance was off and or the lighting was mixed and cameras have a hard time dealing with that. Easiest way to avoid these issues, try and use daylight bulbs (5000K) in your model room and Auto WB in the camera if you don't do post work; I always shoot in RAW and do post in both Adobe Lightroom and Photoshop - way too complicated if you're not into photography and a camera guy. BTW, using Daylight bulbs is a must when building and painting as the colors will look much closer to true. Normal builds are either too warm (yellowish) or too cold (bluish). I've been going back and forth using my phone and my camera. Camera is shot in RAW so I need to just go back to that. A bit more processing, but worth it for the accuracy. The lighting is problematic as one is an LED bar light and the other is my magnifying ring light. I really do need to up the game on my bench lighting... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peterpools Posted September 24 Share Posted September 24 Chris Super progress and congrats on only knocking off one of the counterbalances - now that's an accomplishment. Color issue most likely is a white balance issue and easiest way to avoid these issues, try and use daylight bulbs(5000K) in your model room and Auto WB in the camera if you don't do post work; I always shoot in RAW and do post in both Adobe Lightroom and Photoshop - way too complicated if you. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peterpools Posted September 24 Share Posted September 24 Chris Nothing like shooting with a real camera as compared to a phone and shooting in RAW. Color temperature seems to be the issue causing the problem as the camera cannot adjust for all the various light temperatures in the same image and need to be corrected in post, as RAW files will allow you to do that. I always work in both Lightroom and Photoshop. For my own images, I use 5000k daylight bulbs, shoot in RAW and then if needed make any adjustments in post. Yes, it's a lot of work but I'm a nut about photography. I also go over the edge in that virtually every image I post is a blend of 3-5 images for the best possible sharpness, front to back - again way over the top and not necessary - just how I do things. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CANicoll Posted September 25 Author Share Posted September 25 Well, took another look at the colors this evening and the pictures are actually very accurate. My bad, but the color really is a green shade. That one colorized picture which I noted had that green color may have been off a few shades, but definitely there is a green hue there. Spent some time this evening playing with some washes. Really like the AK Paneliners. They flow nicely over the Tamiya X-22 clear gloss. Sand and Desert on the bottom and Brown and Green on the topside. Topside, I wondered how the darker wash would turn out. Like this!: Next up is to try the sand/tan wash over the dark camo. The underside dirtied up nicely with the wash. The yellow got muted a bit but hard to see in the photos. The wash did not come off completely cleanly as I let it dry for longer than I usually do, which is the effect I was going for. The Wheel wells are washed with a dark gray AK Paneliner. Cleaned out with a cotton bud. Here is the overall effect on the wing: Have not touched the nose yet. Still have the oil stains to add, etc. Went with the washes rather than going after the stencils... SO MANY AND THEY ARE TINY.... Will seal with washes with another clear coat, then do the decals, with another round of washes over the decals. The stencils have a lot of clear carrier film that will be next to impossible to cut off, and I was not confident that even with Micro Set/Sol that they clear film would settle into the panel lines cleanly. 4 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinM Posted September 25 Share Posted September 25 Liking the wash Chris it's subtle and blends in the the pre-shade. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CANicoll Posted September 25 Author Share Posted September 25 Thanks Kevin! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landlubber Mike Posted September 25 Share Posted September 25 Agree with Kevin - that panel liner looks really good. I might have to switch to X-22. I've been using Mr. Color's gloss but the stuff is like a sticky tar in the jar and needs a lot of leveling thinner to spray right. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinM Posted September 25 Share Posted September 25 2 hours ago, CANicoll said: Thanks Kevin! In the beginning on mine Chris the color looked to light(flash?) but I knew the Florrys and pastels would darken it up a little.That's the whole thing with weathering for me at least getting to understand it and getting comfortable still have a long road a head of me. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CANicoll Posted September 26 Author Share Posted September 26 9 hours ago, Landlubber Mike said: Agree with Kevin - that panel liner looks really good. I might have to switch to X-22. I've been using Mr. Color's gloss but the stuff is like a sticky tar in the jar and needs a lot of leveling thinner to spray right. Mike, I am not a Tamiya Fan, but Peter swears by it (not at it.. LOL) so I tried it a while back and it definitely delivers better than any of my other clears. I have tried Vallejo (not bad but takes a lot to get a really glossy coat), Alclad - (I'm inconsistent with it), MRP (seems like I go through a whole bottle on a 1/48 aircraft) so Tamiya was kind of a last resort. I thin it about 50% with Leveling thinner. I love it the more I use it and am ordering another bottle. It does go on a bit splotchy when I do a wet coat, but if I just go away and leave it alone, I come back to a perfectly smooth, glossy finish. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CANicoll Posted September 26 Author Share Posted September 26 8 hours ago, KevinM said: In the beginning on mine Chris the color looked to light(flash?) but I knew the Florrys and pastels would darken it up a little.That's the whole thing with weathering for me at least getting to understand it and getting comfortable still have a long road a head of me. I hear you on that. I used to use an old Monogram B-17 wing as a paint mule to try things out. I really like laying down a white base when I'm trying to fade a topcoat, or a black base when doing the same with a lighter top coat. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CANicoll Posted September 26 Author Share Posted September 26 Making progress getting more bits together. First was getting the wash on the various flaps, Then clearing it off - wiping with a paper towel. Close up on the gear doors. Leading edge of the doors pre-shaded. Also remembered I needed to work with the PE exhaust covers - Folded here. Prime and paint tomorrow. \ The Eduard fit is REALLY good The ailerons and elevators are press-fitted here. Added the spinner Took a while but got the flaps in place. Underside, still have to attach the second aileron counterweight on the right side (left in the picture). Started on some of the oil stains. 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landlubber Mike Posted September 26 Share Posted September 26 Looks so good Chris! The Eduard instructions are one thing, but seeing the camo in 3D on the model itself is quite another. Really striking scheme for sure. On the subject of glosses, I forgot to mention that I've also used the Mr. Super Clear in a rattle can. It works pretty well, and is very easy to spray compared to Tamiya rattle cans where I've found it's better to decant as the nozzles on the Tamiya cans tend in my experience to spit, etc. Do people still use Future to gloss coat before weathering/decaling? I think I tried it once or twice when I first got back into plastic models, but haven't since as I've had the [irrational?] fear that it just won't do the job as well as products specifically designed for modeling. Would hate spoiling a nicely built and painted model with a bad gloss coat. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CANicoll Posted September 26 Author Share Posted September 26 Mike: Thank you! I'll take some better pictures here soon. I actually have two bottles of the original Future (yes that old!) but have only used it lately for dipping canopies. I'm with you - once you put all the work into a paint scheme you hate to ruin it with a bad clear coat. I have not tried any rattle cans as I'm not sure of the controllability. I'm really happy with the X-22 and it seems pretty fool proof for the gloss. I do like the Vallejo for the Matte/flat, but I invested in some of MRP's Matte and semi-matte so will give them a go. I don't know how you keep up multiple builds! I can barely keep one going. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landlubber Mike Posted September 26 Share Posted September 26 I have the Vallejo clears but haven’t really used them yet. I have only used them for interior items or to hand brush where I want a flat coat for a particular part surrounded by parts of a different finish. I’ve also used them to touch up things like CA spots where I break something off and need to glue it back. A little matte and the shiny CA spot is gone. I’ve used Testor’s Dullcote in similar situations, but I’m looking to minimize the product lines as much as possible. Difficult though as products from different brands tend to have different strengths and weaknesses, so some seem better in certain applications than others. On the multiple builds, I tend to get burned out and need a mental break from a build, or I get stuck and can’t figure out what to do (like the rigging on my Walrus or the cowl ring on my Brewster Buffalo) so I put my energies and excitement into something new. Or, I’ll have similar enough kits so will bucket them together for efficiency- I have a few 1/700 ship models that are 95% done, but I’m going to finish them together by building their sea diorama bases st the same time. That being said, I’m pretty much spending all my energies doing the sandbox builds given that I’m trying to complete two before the deadline. I did take a couple of evenings to work on some 1/700 aircraft for a Japanese army escort carrier that I started a while back. With how easily the Hasegawa Hs 129 kits are falling together, I figured I’d torture myself with some 1/700 PE to keep me on my toes. There are certainly times I wish I went full bore on a subject like you do! I try to keep physical and mental notes on where I am on builds, but sometimes I lose track of what I’m supposed to do or even where I put the parts. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peterpools Posted September 26 Share Posted September 26 Chris Amazing progress - paint work and weathering are off the chart! Going to be buying a few bottles of the AK Washes and give them a test against my tried-and-true Tamiya PLW's. I'm still a huge fan of Flory washes and they still are my go-to panel line wash after all these years. Right with Mike and yourself - I still have a few bottles of Future/Pledge and haven't used in in decades. Just not the way to go these days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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