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Soldering Tips


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I am not an expert on soldering but you may need to be very careful with the white metal. I do know there are several "grades" concerning melting point. Some may not withstand soldering temps. Try it first on a an un-needed part or a bit of sprue if possible.



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If you are going to try and solder white metal, then I would try to add something to the metal parts to help sink the heat (take it away) before it damages them with the heat from the iron. Also use a flux paste which will quickly transfer heat and allow the solder to run. The paste means that your iron contact time will be minimal due to the heat dispersing through the joint quickly.

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Hi Rick,


My name is Steve Naylor just joined the forum and noticed hat you need help with some soldering, this is one field I've had a lot of experience with. The best way of joining brass to white metal with solder is as follows, firstly use a suitable flux and tin the brass with any electrical type solder. Now to join the white metal to it you will need to have a low temperature soldering iron or better still a temperature controlled iron (it's worth getting one  if you haven't already as you can use it for brass and whitemetal ) You then need some low melt solder and your iron set at between 175 degrees and 200 degrees put a little flux on both parts put a little lowmelt solder on the tip of your iron and you will see it flow together.

This way you end up with a very strong joint the want come apart. If you use ordinary solder on white metal you may find your whitemetal melts in front of your eyes as whitemetal melts at 200 degrees and your normal electrical solder melts at 288 degrees.

I know this sounds complex but it's not honest.

Have a play with something else before you commit, but it is quite easy really, if you have difficulty getting low melt solder try your local model railway shop they youse lowmelt all the time.

If I can help in anyway please come back to me and I'll help as much as I can.


Regards Steve.

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I'm a graduate of the USAF's Electronic Warfare Center High Reliablity Soldering School.  Unfortunately what I do in real life is more like "the bigger the glob the better the job!"


Steve's advice is very good, a variable temperature soldering is mandatory.  Experiment and practice!

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Hi all, hi Dave 


 With reference to your question about soldering brass to brass, I take it were talking brass wire or fine etch sheet. If this is the case that's the easy bit. The secret of any soldering is 'cleanliness is next to godliness' make sure your metal is clean this will ensure your solder joint is nice and strong when it's done. First if you have a temperature controlled soldering iron it makes life easier because you can use it for most types of metal that we use for modelling, if not don't worry an ordinary soldering iron will do I would recommend a 40 or 50 watt iron this should cover you for most eventuality's. Next you need a flux you'll get this from most DIY sheds or a plumbers merchant, then solder, there are various temperatures of solder your better of with the electrical solder the most common is 288 degree, but you can get 245 and 188 degree as well. The 288 is fine if you can get some 245 it makes things a little easier but it's not vital. Right all you need to do now is make sure your iron is up to temperature, put your brass you want to solder together put a little of your flux onto the joint get your soldering iron wipe the tip on a damp sponge and put a little solder on the tip you don't need much then put the tip to the join and you will see the solder flow through the joint, as soon as this happens take the heat away and let the joint cool and set wipe the joint while it's still warm to remove any residue flux and there you are your soldered joint.

By the way the reason for a 40 or 50 watt iron is the quicker you get the heat in the join the less heat dissipation you get through your brass and end up with a nice strong joint.

Honest it's not rocket science and is easy to do. Hope this helps you. If you need anymore help feel free to come back to me.


All the best from Steve in the heart of the UK.

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An alternative would be to use either:


1. Brass airfoil strut so you have a strong part without the weakness of a join or;

2. brass rod (for strength) with an airfoil shape built up around it.


I'm not sure, brass rod either end or not, that I'd trust white metal to holding up a whole 190 for years to come...


Useful soldering tips (pun intended) there Steve.. thanks



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