Martinnfb Posted December 11 Author Posted December 11 Gondolas are assembled with a little bit of general schmutz applied over it just to separate the worn look from the rest of the wing. There was also another pesky seam line that sneak by my weak eyesight. 5
Martinnfb Posted December 11 Author Posted December 11 Just for the size . Side by size with 1/32 Havoc 7
PanzerWomble Posted December 11 Posted December 11 Glad you modified the gonadlas , they look great now . 3
Martinnfb Posted December 12 Author Posted December 12 Glassware is excellent. Only addition was green tint on the armour plates and handholds on the frame. the headrests has a cushion and double glass just like the real thing. Well done Airfix. 7
Martinnfb Posted December 12 Author Posted December 12 From Arctic Bandit to Twilight Sparkle, at this stage the paint looks so stark. 8
Martinnfb Posted December 12 Author Posted December 12 Fantastically designed radiator flaps mechanism. 8
PanzerWomble Posted December 12 Posted December 12 It's good to see some nice engineering from them . Looking good Martin , how are you enjoying the Atom ? 3
Martinnfb Posted December 12 Author Posted December 12 Thank you , I have to admit I like them, first time there's a product that I can hand brush and air brush with great results. really impressed. 4
Martinnfb Posted December 13 Author Posted December 13 Artificial Horizont decal shifted on me, Eduard 109 bezel set 23014 came to the rescue. Now I feel I should replace all of them. Remember, AOOB 5
PanzerWomble Posted December 13 Posted December 13 Looking good , take it no seat belts in the kit or do they use decals ? 2
Martinnfb Posted December 13 Author Posted December 13 Thanks Guy, yes there are seatbelts, but plastic molded in the universal vertical position and I can’t really imagine how to crumple them in the back, so I opted to go with the paper ones, an easy way out 5
Spitfire Posted December 13 Posted December 13 Coming along nicely, the fabric/paper type seatbelts are a pain to put together but they do look great and are well worth the effort. Cheers Dennis 4
Martinnfb Posted December 14 Author Posted December 14 Some of you were wondering about the quality and fit of the masking tape provided by Airfix. Well, it does the job. I didn’t use transfer tape, just slapped it on off hand. The material is slightly softer than Kabuki, but its adhesive allows you to play around with the placement. Good call over all, I just wish they would provide also the rest of insignia crosses. And yeah, my compressor overheated and started spitting water, nota biggie. 6
BlrwestSiR Posted December 14 Posted December 14 That looks good. Nice to have masks at this scale. 2
Martinnfb Posted December 14 Author Posted December 14 Definitely a must, this thing is huge . I am testing the new ATOM paint and trying all kinds of thinners, little expensive guinea pig, but there is no time for hesitation 4
telepatu Posted December 15 Posted December 15 Following with interest. I didn't plan on getting this kit. I have the Trumpeter Bf-109G in the stash, so why would I get another one? Your build is looking so good that I'm getting second thoughts. The Trumpy is a G-2, so a this being a G-6 is not the same, right? 😇 1 1
Martinnfb Posted December 15 Author Posted December 15 Definitely worth the money. In case you wonder the font is Alte DIN 1451 Mittelschrift 7
PanzerWomble Posted December 15 Posted December 15 23 hours ago, Martinnfb said: Definitely a must, this thing is huge . I am testing the new ATOM paint and trying all kinds of thinners, little expensive guinea pig, but there is no time for hesitation From my experience , water ok ish , their own thinner used sparingly is better , also some swear by Tammy X20 which is better than water and has less retardants. I've used all three in the learning process . It's doesn't react that well to hotter stuff like MPR self levelling or other things with high IPA content ( it can 'split' like milk does) . Found once I had a good feel for the viscosity, it becomes more straightforward , initially I was put off by me over thinning . You can spray them straight from the bottle according to their blurb, which is ok if you just want heavy coverage , but out of the bottle viscosity varies by pigment density. But this is what I love the best , esp being a big fan of Mike Rinaldis work . In this vid he's put the paint on a bit thick , put it on a bit thinner and it drops off easily. Sorry if I'm being a bit of a proselyte . 4
Martinnfb Posted Wednesday at 03:58 AM Author Posted Wednesday at 03:58 AM Masked the code numbers, I rarely using pure black but this time it was needed because of the swastika decals that will be easier to blend. 8
PanzerWomble Posted Wednesday at 12:51 PM Posted Wednesday at 12:51 PM Cracking build so far so....... any advice on doing the numerals ? Spray the yellow then carefully position for the black or vice versa ? It's something I've struggled to get my head around as I generally prefer negative masking but it makes chipping through afterwards not an option. 😔 1 1
Martinnfb Posted Wednesday at 02:04 PM Author Posted Wednesday at 02:04 PM Thank you guys. There will be adjustments to the mottling and repairs once the paint is cured. Regarding the marking. As a first step I sprayed the black layer into the centres, then cover the centre again, then removed the outline and sprayed the yellow. Oramask 810 is very flexible, thick , but flexing enough to give you some room for adjustments. 3
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