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Posted
20 minutes ago, Martinnfb said:

At first I was like"what do you mean by classics ?" and then it hit me. Time flies. Well done, she's a beaut.

The Thou is 46 , my Merc is 43 and my "young" FJ1200 currently going through a full frame up restoration is 39 ..I just love pre digital vehicles ..wife's 4x4 is a mere 16 years old and has to have inspections, pay road tax and other costs . Over 40 years old they are exempt from all that expense in the UK .

We are thinking about trading it in for a crew cab pick up when we retire for European caravan adventures, but not something a big as a RAM 

  • Like 3
  • 2 months later...
Posted

I decided to re-install the original coil springs in the rear. Two reasons, a softer ride and restoring my driveshaft/pinion angle thus eliminating that nasty clunk that has become apparent after I switched to a single piece, aluminium driveshaft.  Now I have the gnarly looking muscle car rake :)

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Then I destroyed the hard work of all those good folks at the Ford Motor company, who were trying to imitate ( tune) the iconic sound of Steve McQueen's 68 fastback movie car .  In order to do so, I removed the baffle plate from the h-pipe. And now for the worst part, no change in sound! Oh no! Now, I've secured a spot in Ford hell. :)

And Martin said: "Let there be flow" and there was a flow. And Martin saw that the flow was good, and He equalized the pressure in both banks, increasing torque and decreasing the drone.

Obviously the FoMoCo Hell is not the only one I have a spot booked in.

 

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  • Like 2
Posted
3 hours ago, Martinnfb said:

Now I have the gnarly looking muscle car rake :)

My '02 Civic had a rake to it. It was unintentional at first. Lowering springs hadn't come out yet for the EP3 Civic at the time Soni used ones for a DC5 Integra. They share the same chassis but obviously had enough differences for me to end up with a rake. 

Later when I went to full coil overs, I had it set up that way since I liked the look. 

  • Like 1
Posted

I got the dreaded P2007 CEL code on my ‘15 Mustang.  IMRC stuck closed on bank 2.  Intake Manifold Runner Control.  For those that aren’t in the know, the intake ports have “doors” that close to redirect airflow through different runners.   Kind of like the old hot rod days where you put a tunnel Ram intake on for high RPM’s or a short runner intake for low end torque, but all in one. 
The design is a known failure since the rod that runs through the doors breaks off at the actuator.  Three fix options.  
1) Find an OEM ‘15-‘17 intake and swap it.  Problem is, no longer available. 

2)Try to Rube Goldberg the old intake with a new rod you made from bar stock. Seen it done on YouTube.  No thanks  

3) Or swap out the intake with a 2018 and put a tune on the ECM so it will run with the Gen II Coyote.  Of course since I’m paying for a tune I might as well get an aftermarket cold air intake that flows better and have that rolled into the tune.  
 

So I’ve got $1500 of parts, tune and programmer sitting in the box now to install this coming weekend.  

  • Like 2
Posted
10 hours ago, ScottsGT said:

I got the dreaded P2007 CEL code on my ‘15 Mustang.  IMRC stuck closed on bank 2.  Intake Manifold Runner Control.  For those that aren’t in the know, the intake ports have “doors” that close to redirect airflow through different runners.   Kind of like the old hot rod days where you put a tunnel Ram intake on for high RPM’s or a short runner intake for low end torque, but all in one. 
The design is a known failure since the rod that runs through the doors breaks off at the actuator.  Three fix options.  
1) Find an OEM ‘15-‘17 intake and swap it.  Problem is, no longer available. 

2)Try to Rube Goldberg the old intake with a new rod you made from bar stock. Seen it done on YouTube.  No thanks  

3) Or swap out the intake with a 2018 and put a tune on the ECM so it will run with the Gen II Coyote.  Of course since I’m paying for a tune I might as well get an aftermarket cold air intake that flows better and have that rolled into the tune.  
 

So I’ve got $1500 of parts, tune and programmer sitting in the box now to install this coming weekend.  

You should LS swap it 

:sofa:

  • Haha 2
Posted
On 9/15/2025 at 12:54 PM, Martinnfb said:

Doesn’t work after the rod has been broken off.  The rod snaps right where it comes out of the back of the intake.  
 

The other option was a Roush supercharger.  Couldn’t convince the wife that $8500 was a better option than $1500.  

My son called me the day after I ordered everything to tell me he has a Roush supercharger for $400.  Brand new.  But it’s just the blower part.  Still needs the intake and 87 other small parts.  Told him I’m too old for those games.  
 

Besides, I have the 3:55 rear gear option.  RPM’s wind up real fast with that gearing. Especially with a manual transmission.  

  • Like 1
Posted

Well, got ‘er done!  
My baby boy helping, err..doing it.

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The power now is incredible!

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Now the funny part.  It wasn’t the shaft broken.  😁

  • Like 2
Posted

Intake was fine.  Apparently it was the one actuator that needed replacing.  But I don’t care.  The performance upgrade was worth the price of admission.  😁

When I nailed the throttle I squeezed like R2D2 when the Millennium Falcon went into hyperdrive.  

  • Like 3
Posted

Popped on a set of  BOSS 302 coils yesterday and as I was on it, I switched the upper arm bushing back to stock rubber compound as well.  Getting older I guess  

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  • Like 3
Posted

My stay at home kids are worthless.  They need to get out and get a job to help contribute somehow to the house.  
 

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  • Like 1
  • Haha 3
Posted

The kitty picture is priceless. Reminds me of the book series called "Dungeon crawler Carl" and its main protagonist princess Donut. If you're cat person, you want to read that. Way too funny. :)

I took off the valve cover to see what is inside. now I know, there are .....stuff. :)

 

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  • Like 1
Posted
On 9/21/2025 at 8:08 AM, ScottsGT said:

My stay at home kids are worthless.  They need to get out and get a job to help contribute somehow to the house.  
 

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Man, our two lounge about as much as yours. 

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  • Haha 3
Posted
1 hour ago, Martinnfb said:

Oh , gnarly ! 

It gets worse. 

To reach the alternator, I have to pull the rad shroud, loosen and move the rad support and pull the overflow tank. Then I can get to the rad fan which has to come out. Finally, the power steering pump has to be unbolted.  At that point, I can get to the alternator. 

So I'm stuck on removing the rad fan. I can't get this clip undone.

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It's for a wire that runs on the bottom of the rad fan housing. The pic is from below looking up. 

Oh and for some reason, there's absolutely no mention of this wire in any of the guides I've read. 

Anyone got an extra set of hands?

  • Like 1
Posted

My neighbour came over today and gave me a hand. He got the clip undone so that we could pull the rad fan out. 

Then it was the power steering pump and finally the alternator itself.

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New vs. old

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Everything back together.

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A quick test drive and no more dash lights and noises from.under the hood. 

  • Like 1

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