Beading tools, Rivets, and CA

[GazzaS]

Hi everyone,

    After trying a recommended filler for unwanted or large rivets (Mr. Dissolved Putty), I've decided it just doesn't work well enough.  I've ended up with a model for the parts bin.

Anyway...  I have another Trumpy kit that has the same problem.  Deep, wide rivets even in places where I'll need positive rivets. 

CA seems to be the best filler.   But will the areas filled with CA react well to the beading tool, or will it just chip off?

 

Thanks for your thoughts!

 

Gaz

[Martinnfb]

I am using automotive primer, any brand as long as it's sand-able . CA is very brittle. Beading tool is my weapon of choice however many guys love to use Archer rivet transfers.

[GazzaS]

42 minutes ago, Martinnfb said:

I am using automotive primer, any brand as long as it's sand-able . CA is very brittle. Beading tool is my weapon of choice however many guys love to use Archer rivet transfers.

By Automotive primer, are you saying paint in an aerosol can?

[GazzaS]

On a side note, there is some minor tin-canning needed around the rivets, too.

[Martinnfb]

Yes a spray can, it is easy to apply and cheap too.

Here is how it looks with beading tool.

A/ punched over the original holes

B/ punched over and sanded

F/ collateral damage caused by the brittle clear plastic

[GazzaS]

Thanks for that, Martin.  That clear plastic blows.

[Martinnfb]

Not at all, I had this very same dilemma with Trump's 262, fortunately Revell showed up with non-riveted version of it. Also if you punch into the normal plastic that is much softer, the material around the indentation will be slightly raised, so if you paint it first and hen gently sand it, you will end up with a beautiful circle . 

[GazzaS]

22 hours ago, Martinnfb said:

Not at all, I had this very same dilemma with Trump's 262, fortunately Revell showed up with non-riveted version of it. Also if you punch into the normal plastic that is much softer, the material around the indentation will be slightly raised, so if you paint it first and hen gently sand it, you will end up with a beautiful circle . 

So, let me see if I'm getting the process right: 

1.  Spray automotive primer to partially fill rivet hole.

2.  Use beading tool to make new rivet.

3.  Sand until only the circle you want to show remains?

 

Gaz

[Martinnfb]

You can fill the holes completely. Then sand it re-scribe the panel lines and then apply rivets with beading tool. 

[GazzaS]

25 minutes ago, Martinnfb said:

You can fill the holes completely. Then sand it re-scribe the panel lines and then apply rivets with beading tool. 

Thanks, Martin.  I hate rescribing, I really do.  It's not the process, or the time.  It's the fact that I can't maintain a straight line worth a damn.  I can even use Dymo tape...my hand will still find a way move away from the tape.  Quite frustrating.

 

Gaz

[Peterpools]

Gaz

An alternate method, which I might add is a pain to do but the results are bomb proof. Back in the day we use to dissolve good old sprue in a bottle of Testor’s Liquid Cement until you ended up with a milky paste (it takes a few days). My favorite pladtic to use is Hadagawa’s as it dissolves well and sands well. The goop is then carfully applied over the rivets, gaps or whatever and then left to thoroughly dry. It’s important the fill the rivets the getting thevright consistency takes practice and some luck.  Once dry, it's sanding time but when your done, all the rivets are filled solid with plastic. I’ve never attemped to do all the rivets on a model as it’s a daunting task for sure but riveting now becomes the same as riveting on smooth plastic.

I still keep a bottle on the bench and use it from time to time as a filler where strength is needed.

Peter