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Everything posted by GazzaS

  1. Thank you all for all of the kind, interested responses. We never did a proper initiation for this build. Here is the box art: For a "not so good kit" and for the fact that there weren't many D.I's operational, you get four schemes to build. You can see two here with some of the assembled internal components. Dunno how well you can see the cushion, but I modified it using scribing tools to put in the stress lines between the buttons. Unfortunately both wings were warped a bit causing some nasty anhedral. I made some grooves on the inside of th
  2. The wet effect. Not sure I like this. I had to make my own concoction of Future and gloss acrylic medium. Anyway... here is a barrage of photos. Lemme know what you think, please.
  3. Ugh... Even though I painted the commander's face as well, this guy is the better looking of the two. I thought his face looked pretty good with just my glasses on. Blown up, he looks so much worse. Practice, Grasshopper. I'll let him dry overnight, then start on the uniforms. One of the problems I find is that on one side of these Dragon Figs, you have one real eyeball to work with, and on the other side, a hole. Oh well.
  4. Wow! Great job, Rob! it is quite an impressive show of your modelling skills. It actually looks quite heavy and made of steel.
  5. Thank you, Kai. No Eagle Cals. Except for the Swastika, all of the markings were done with masks I made. The tank diorama was a more of a slide-show with a back drop printed at home. Here is the rest of it in-order:
  6. Thank you, Peter. Before you get involved, there is a bit more to it. You will need a couple of other things to make the process work. 1. You will need a flow improver. Vallejo makes one, but I made my own using 50/50 water and windex with a couple drops of glycerine or dish washing liquid. This reduces surface tension of the paint, thins the paint, and helps work against dry tip. Ammonia based glass cleaner can strip the chrome from your airbrush. 2. Acrylic paints are pretty fragile. To make them more robust, the bulk of the thinning is done with Future.
  7. Holy shit! Please... please tell me you're not going to hold on to that "USA only" limitation. I'll pay the postage!
  8. Nice work, John! If I might suggest.... I got some custom made reading glasses for rigging. They are X4.82. If you use X5, the working distance is too short. X5 is what watchmakers use. X4.82 gives you a working distance of 8 inches. Got them made at Specsavers here in AUS. Love them for the ultra-fiddly work.
  9. Yay! It's always good to see a splash of color! I hafta admit I like most IDF color schemes. Especially with those big triangles! Gaz
  10. Glad to be of help, Jeff. I try to avoid expensive hobby brands when I suspect I can save some dosh. I've even painted models with tube acrylics with no troubles. All of the models below were painted with student grade acrylic tube paint. While using tube acrylics might not be the most time efficient method, it allows the modeller to create any color while spending pennies per model. The only 'extra' purchases required were some cheap stuff to make flow enhancer and a color recipe book. The T-34 was my first really big step into o
  11. Kai, You've done a great job fitting everything together. It's a shame that the resin part fit so poorly. Hopefully cleaning up the join won't cost you too much surface detail. It is starting to look like a jet fighter, though! Gaz
  12. Glad to have you both along! Thank you!
  13. Thank you Kai, I have only used burnt sienna by Holcroft (an art store brand) for the man's face. The base color is tamiya flesh. I only have art store oils... I don't imagine that Mig or AK are any better.
  14. My next aircraft on my list to build is Roden's Albatros D.I in 1/32 scale. It's a nice kit with only a couple weaknesses that trouble me. Those troubles inspired me to to address them before I get on to the fun stuff. My first Roden Albatros was a D.III version which turned out like this: I will tell you the most important difference between a Roden kit and a WNW kit. If you were to build both OOB with no modifications and perform a barrel roll with each, the Roden kit will most likely lose it's upper wing. That is because the gluing surface on the Roden struts is s
  15. Hi Ho, Hi Ho! Today's stuG action was the third layer of mud... done with oils. The pinwash... also oils. And the first oils on the gunner's face and hands. I'm happy with the pinwash. Less so with the third mud layer. I've decided I'm going to have to get some wet effects. Please pardon the reflection from the Future. Shiny stuff.
  16. Holy shit that's a lot of work. You're doing great, Martin! Glad to see you at it. My last Trumpeter P-40... got sold for the cost of postage.
  17. A model in the hand is worth two on a website. That being said, the latest ICM kits are pretty nice, but definitely not Tamiya quality. I'd at least have a good look at the kit you already have first... maybe dry fit the main parts.
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