Clunkmeister

THIS MODEL IS TRULY HUMUNGOUS!

We’re doing it again, y’all! Our Christmas raffle went over well the last five years, and will keep the rules similar to last year Here’s a rundown of rules so everyone is refreshed and aware. 1. Anyone who wants to enter to win may do so, IF, they are an Active Member of LSM as of right now. Nov 18, 2023, 1930 hrs CST 2. Active Member is defined as anyone who has contributed to LSM by posting 5 posts to LSM within the last calender year. I though again of making it a WIP requirement, but decided again to nix that idea. The whole idea here is to promote a feeling of Christmas Spirit, get people posting more, and hopefully bring a better ending to 2023.. So let’s make this fun! This in obviously not directed at those who have recently come here from LSP, Hyperscale, or wherever, if you’re new, you’re welcome to enter 3. Enrolling: Entering the raffle is easy. Just post "I'm in" and I'll mark you down. I’m going to change one rule: To be eligible for the gift raffle, you need to contribute. If you DON’T contribute to the raffle with a gift, your name will NOT be included in the regular gift drawings, but all is not lost, you WILL still be eligible for the Grand Prize. 3.5 Due to the hideous economy of the last year, I’m not expecting miracles here money isn’t around like it was last year, so if you’d like to enter and find it’s tough, please PM me and we’ll figure it out. By PM. No pressure, no judgement, just PM me 4. Gifts: I’m not going to make this mandatory, but I will recommend a contribution of a new kit with a value over $30.00 USD, and under, say, $120.00. That gives a huge range of ideas. From Hasegawa to Revell, to Tamiya. If you give a kit from stash, that’s cool, but let’s make sure it’s not a busted up old stash Queen from 1967 with a smashed box and yellowed decals. The whole idea here is to have everyone get something nice. The LSM Grand Prize will be two kits, each drawn separately. A. brand new 1/144 Revell AN-225 Mrija kit. The original edition with three build possibilities: in flight, on the ground, and on the ground kneeling with nose raised and ramp deployed. The kit comes with a very complete interior. It also includes the final Antonov Airlines white, blue, yellow Ukrainian scheme she was wearing when destroyed on the ground by Soviet forces last year. That’s a real VERY LARGE scale model. And… B. HK A-20G, including one full set of Zotz A-20G PTO decals and masks. Yes, they’re each more than 120, but I make the roolz and this will be THE Grand Prize offered. Each will be drawn individually at the end of the raffle, and everyone will be eligible 5. Impropriety: To avoid any sense of impropriety, I am going to ask that all people who feel led to contribute gifts to please verify your gifts as listed correctly. If I list it wrong, please let me know so I can correct it in time. Anything LSM related is good in my book. Aircraft, AFVs, SciFi, Ships, are all OK. It makes my job easier when it comes to keeping track of who gave and won what. 6. More Impropriety: As the organizer and overseer of this operation, once again, I will again give, but will NOT be eligible for any gift drawings. 7. Winning is great. Giving is an awesome thing. 8. But remember, if you offer a gift, you're responsible for getting it to the winner. 8a. If shipping is outrageous, giver can substitute a gift card of similar value to the winner so he can source it locally. In the EU, for sample, Duties, Taxes, Brokerage, and VAT for items shipped from the US are astronomical for someone on a tight income in the EU. So consider for, say, a Brit, sourcing a gift card from Hannants. In the EU? One of the big German, Czech, or Polish model houses might be a good choice . If that isn’t an option, contact me and I’ll arrange to help with shipping and VAT charges as I can. 9. Gift givers and winners are to contact each other in a timely manner and winner must provide shipping information so the giver can get the package in the mail. 10. This is a fun Christmas Raffle, guys. If you pledge a gift, please make every effort to get it out in a timely fashion. 11. I will attempt to update the prize list and the names of those who entered the raffle on a daily basis. If there's more entrants than gifts, not everyone will receive a gift. If there's more gifts than entrants, then some will get more than one. 12. Drawing: Christmas Day in the USA, because that's where I live, and I work the day before, so the Aussies and the Kiwis gotta wait an extra day. Sorry guys!

Ho Ho Ho.

Yes, smoke and mirrors.

Tomorrow we do some more pastels

This is getting really ugly!

Thanks folks! We’re just having fun, trying a few pastels on the center section to see what we have happening here. obviously I haven’t yet messed with the cowls or anything but the center section. That seems to have often taken a beating in service. I think it’s a fair bit heavy handed and too broadly based, but the nice thing about pastels is that you can take them off, plus they tend to disappear under a clear seal coat.

Tonight, I did some messing around with oils on the top of the closest wing

That’s Hilarious! I missed out on a 1958 Auto Union the other day. A cute little postwar German 2 stroke car. I certainly like wrenching on these mid 50s cars, Fords in particular. I’m good at it, and have been working on 55-56 Ford’s since I was 14. But yes, ai have a few too many. Problem is, I see an easy, simple fix, while others see a costly nightmare. So I get them for next to nothing. Mid 50s Chevys are way overvalued, while mid 50s Fords are way undervalued. Underbthe skin, these use the same powertrain as the 55-57 2 seat Thunderbirds.

I have my 97 F-250 diesel that I use on the ranch and at work. As for an old truck, I have a 55 F100, but it’s in about 5000 pieces.

Looks like this, polished up

Hauled this primo little number out of the back of my garage. Time to fix the cosmetics. It runs like a champ! These old Crown Vics have always been collectible, especially one like this, the first year Crown Vic:1955. They took a huge beating in price in the last few years, but they still bring respectable numbers. Paint, a bit of chrome plating, and a good detailing will make this car shine!

Had a neat little charity event in Pilot Point, Tx. A cool little town.

Lots of progress here. Plenty of different shades of OD going on, which all disappears under a gloss coat. of course, we painted most of the markings, so why I cleared the entire thing is beyond me. after this we get dullcoat, then oils and powders. the stares and bars almost look too vivid, but they’re actually a very light grey.

Here’s a baby picture of my from almost 60 years ago. I was one of these little fellers.

We played with various lightening tones to break up the monotony without going att patchwork. I think it’s starting to look the part

I spent a ton of time on it as well. I started with 3D decals, stopped, and then redid it with individual Airscale instrument decals. Before Airscale brought their kit out. I didn’t go as far as Nigel, simply because I didn’t want to. But it looks good enough to me I used an ASK 3D seat, although I could have easily salvaged and doctored up the kit seat. My biggest change was to toss the kit engines and graft on the Resin2Detail engine faces. The kit parts a the same R2600s as in the B-25, and I’m no fan. My biggest goal here was to get a good sun faded blotchy brown hued exterior, and go from there.

My lovely and me, last weekend. And my lovely, alone, simply because I wanted to.

Been picking away at this little lovely. Obviously, I’ve obviously I’ve stuck my dauber in it, and made a right mess of it. But, onward and upward with this PTO kite

Peter, mine will be faded a bit more because I’m highlighting panel centers a bet.

Peter, I mixed my own. The Dark Earth started as that, and I doctored it up some. It’s Gunze. The green started as Tamiya XF-81 and I doctored it up some. Silver bottom is a Tamiya enamel, black is Gunze RLM66 doctored up with some Cowling Color, the white is Character white with some light grey added

It’s hard to believe, but in the 60s and 70s, those and the 106s were our first line of defense against Soviet bomber attack, and that was their one single job. Period. Launch from A, get to B as fast as possible, launch missiles, return to A, and repeat until the threat was gone or the world was on fire. They were NOT a dogfighter and didn’t take kindly to high G maneuvers. I remember reading a case of a Canadian 101 off the coast of BC or Washington State intercepting a US Navy patrol plane something or other that was acting as a Soviet bomber intruder. The 101 did the intercept, scored a “kill”, then, as fighter pilots are apt to do, did a fast high G pull up into a Victory Roll. The 101 immediately high sped stalled and snapped into an unrecoverable flat spin, and after trying their drogue shoot, the intrepid victors punched out and got to go swimming. The Navy crew’s wives were anal at happy because they were late for dinner after flying several hours top cover while a ship got close enough to launch a helo and fish them out. I bet the Canadian crew had to buy more than a few beers that night. Supposedly this caused the Air Force to install stick shakers on all the 101s to warn of an impending high speed departure. The 106 did not have this issue, but as is the case with all deltas, would scrub speed quickly when the turns got sharp. Both those planes worked best flown hot and straight.

Peter, TRUST Kotare on the spine. The prototype overlaps a bit on the sides and the kit does as well. The only clean up you’ll need is the bottom of the fuselage behind the wing.

That’s really looking the business, Peter! A lovely little kit isn’t it?

I don’t have a WIP unfortunately, but after being hit by a monsoon these last several days, I did lay some light passes of the base camo for Douglas Bader’s early kite ZD D. Tomorrow we break out the shades and get to work. This kit is an absolute joy to build. It’s positively marvelous.