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HubertB

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Posts posted by HubertB

  1. Just got a new piece of hi-tech gear :D, encouraged by what I saw from MIke (Swinburne) on Ernie's Lancaster thread.

    The price on Amazon was too good to miss, for what is said to be the best at this price (below USD 500) : I paid 400 €, including P&P to Portugal... Not exactly cheap, but comparable with a big 1/32 kits with some AM and books ;), of which I have a few ....

    I am about to fly off for work, then some vacation. It's going to be another two weeks before I get it levelled and can try some printing :ph34r:

    Hubert

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    • Like 7
  2. On 4/20/2019 at 2:03 AM, GazzaS said:

    Anyway...  Lucas lost me with Ewoks.  Vertically challenged peoples with stone-aged technology beating trained troops with armor and blasters?  A glider with a 6 foot wingspan that can drop a boulder... Come-on! 

    In Avatar, you get the same plot, btw (only they are vertically challenged the other way round ;) )

    Hubert

    • Like 4
  3. 7 minutes ago, GazzaS said:

    Getting silvery white is the problem.  If you add silver paint to a larger amount white, you get gray.  Somehow you need to get a white with metal pigments that aren't too large.  Anyway...  break it out!

     

    Gaz

    I’m no expert, but would a thin veil of silver over a white background work ?

    Hubert

    • Like 4
  4. 2 minutes ago, Bomber_County said:

    Hubert, to tidy......

    I do my best to untidy it, but frankly, I clean and order it after each working sequence (few and rather sparse, unfortunately). I have found this makes my modelling more enjoyable in the end, and it also protects whatever little work I achieve from a probing, nosy, curious cat ;) 

    Hubert

    • Like 5
  5. 26 minutes ago, Johann said:

    Oh, oh! Just do not politicize, and do not argue the old stereotypes. And then I will have to believe that my favorite toy as a child was a Kalashnikov machine gun, and my best friend is a brown bear))) Yes, paper models became much more interesting than they were in the 70s-80s, but plastic didn't stay in place either developed.
    You can do everything yourself and not hang from the mistakes of others. (These are not my models either, but I worked with this man a lot and took some examples of him. The models are all in 1/32)
    _DSC9630.jpg

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    Fair point, Johann. Sorry about my comment. My post has been edited and the (rather daft - let’s face it) offending sentence deleted. And these models are truly outstanding !

    Hubert

    • Like 4
  6. Some wing ribs and drawings ...The ribs were cut using the Silhouette Curio. The drawings were downloaded on the net, and - what a surprise ! - did not prove that accurate ...

    But I found some original Piper blueprints online. When I had sorted out the blueprints pertaining to the PA-22, out of the 486 blueprints covering the wj-hole family from PA-15 to PA-22, I could draw an accurate drawing of the tubes frame structure B) (so the only accurate scale drawing is mine, on the right of the pic, showing the frame)

    The pile of ribs on the left are rejects, where I took into account a too-thick wing skin ...

    Hubert

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    • Like 7
  7. Ordered, and received very quickly, some additional HobbyZone modules.

    Two brilliant additions to their range: the "electronic device holder", and the instruction sheet holder, that clips on top of the upper row modules.

    I had to move my instruction sheet holder to the sidez, as they woudl have interfered with my bench lighting. And I glued an additional ridge at the extremity of the electronic device holder, so that I coudl use it to hold reference books.

    (and now, I have a bench that can accomodate even Ernies's biggest kits, or a 1/200 battlewagon :D)

    Hubert

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    • Like 8
  8. 1 hour ago, Martinnfb said:

    I see, thank you. Still very impressive builds.

    +1 !

    They just show what can be achieved by a gifted paper modeller, and how far their design has gone thanks to CAD, compared to the old Eastern Block models of the 70s and early 80s

    And if, like me, you believe that ships have to be in 1/200 to be "meaningful", then paper models are about the only option you can have (and a lot cheaper than the big Trumpeter plastic battlewagons, great as they are).

    Hubert

    • Like 3
  9. Good catch Ernie.

    I had the Avia once in the past, then although it's a very good looking aircraft of my ear of predilection, I decided I would not build it and sold it off.

    As for Fisher kits, they soon been rarer than hen's teeth, unfortu ately for Paul.

    And finally, the Hornet needs correcting around the nose / vanopy rails area. Did Iain not have a WiP on LSP ?

    Hubert

    • Like 5
  10. 2 hours ago, GazzaS said:

    I know you guys have this strange fascination for transports....   God knows why...

     

    BUt if there ain't no guns... (or missiles)  For me there is little interest.  I still haven't built a Ju-52, Li-2, or any transport plane that had a gun.  No love for non-violent models, I guess...lol

     

    Gaz

    Well, for me it’s the aboslute rerverse: guns, bombs, camos, and Nazi swastiks are an absolute repeller. Whilst I understand the marketing reasons for a C-47, I am still waiting for a HpH DC-3 ....

    Hubert

    • Like 2
  11. I am with Gaz on the ‘58 ...

    Btw, both exist as 1/32 paper models. I happen to have the B-58 paper model file. And this is an outstanding model. The same apparently can be said for the big Tupolev model.

    Hubert

    PS : Ernie, your bench is now more orderly, but methink you made it too small :) (although, whatever their initial size, benches end-up being a square-foot ;) )

    • Like 7
  12. I have tried both, with a single hole or many holes. It works about the same, and that the air could be sucked through a tiny (less than 0.5 mm) hole amazed me the first time. (And made me wonder what it can be when this hole happens in the hull of a spacecraft, or a submarine).

    I’d say the number of holes is just commen sense judgement. If you have a big cavity, more than one hole will help suck air more quickly. And you want the process to be as fast as possible before the plastic cools down and cannot be formed.

    Hubert

    • Like 3
  13. If you use male molds (we keep in the same vein as krow, don’t we :) ? ) you will not have sharp corners, and your mold will in theory have to be smaller by the thickness of the plastic you are forming on top of it.

    If you want better definition, even panel lines, and mold a piece the same size as your original, then you need to use a female mold, i.e. 1) make your master, then 2) make a mold in a rigid matter (resin, plaster) around this master. You will need to have a suction hole in this female mold. Best is to insert a piece of monofilament - that will not adhere to the mold matter - or wire, « planted » in you master part. If its diameter is half the thickness of the plastic you are forming, or less, there will be no dimple where the suction hole is. Make sure your mold is large enough to cover the grid of your vacforming machine, so that air can only go through the small hole you have done. 3) heat and form your plastic sheet on ths female mold.

    If all vacs used the female mold method, then it would have a greater success than it sees nowadays : better formed parts, surface detail where it matters, i.e. on the surface of the molded part, easier to achieve conformity to the desired dimensions, and finally clear definition of where to cut the part from the backing sheet. Unfortunately, only a handful of British kit manufacturers ever used it... :(

    A final note. PETG (one common commercial brand in Europe is Vivak, by Bayer) is the only transparent material that does not yellow with age. It has one drawback however, in that it will trap ambient moisture, a bit - to a much lesser degree - like cotton. When you form it, controlling the temperature is critical. A bit too cold, and the sheet will not form. A bit too hot, and steam bubbles from trapped moisture will form inside the sheet. On typical chinese dental vac-forming machines that you find relatively cheap on ebay, the window between too cold and bubbles is something like 2 or 3 ... seconds. To get better results, it is recommended to do what plastic injecters do, i.e. dehydrate the PETG sheet. Two hours in your kitchen oven at low temerature (50 to 60 ° C) should do the trick.

    HTH

     

    Hubert

     

    • Like 6
  14. 1 hour ago, Martinnfb said:

    First Trumpeter , now Hubert, I am loosing my faith in humanity LOL :)

     

    1 hour ago, kkarlsen said:

    Nice try though, you never know...

     

    3 hours ago, Clunkmeister said:

    Hubert the everr present jokester. :)  I'm just riffed that I didn't think of it first.

     

    4 hours ago, DocRob said:

    Pardon my French :secret::rofl::piliot:

    Cheers Rob

    Sorry guys, the irony of announcing French subjects from WnW was too good to miss on this date :rofl:

    Hubert

    • Like 6
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