Jump to content
The Great LSM Twins Group Build ends July 3, 2024 ×

Landlubber Mike

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    865

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Posts posted by Landlubber Mike

    Duchess of Kingston - Beauty of the Seas - Wooden Sailing Ship 1/64

    in Non LSM 'WIP

    Posted

    I'm really impressed with people who can single plank a hull that is plank on bulkhead.  The good news is that you can plank a second layer, so not as many worries how the first planking is turning out.  As long as you take your time filling and sanding to ensure a very smooth hull, the second planking is easier in that you don't have to worry about whether the bulkheads were framed enough or too little.  It also gives you a practice run in determining where the potential lines of planking runs go, where you might need to thin planks, where you might need to use stealers, etc.

    Your stern area is coming out well.  In your last picture, there is a sharp bend in the fifth plank which probably means that last bulkhead could have been faired a bit more.  Shouldn't be too much trouble as you can just sand it out.  

    Planking at the bow is really tricky - not only is there an upward sweep to the planking runs, but often times you have too many planks crowding into a smaller space, which means you have to narrow them.  When you narrow them, you get all kinds of potential for problems.  Really the most critical thing is to not bend a plank laterally against its width.  When you do, you end up with the clinking effect.  Really try to resist the urge to set the plank against the plank above/below it - just let it lay naturally against the bulkheads, and then using stealers, etc.

    You also have what appears to be a couple of low spots between the first and second bulkheads, and possibly between the second and third bulkheads.  But, a little filler and you should be fine.  This is where I'm a big convert to the approach of using filler blocks in this area of the hull, as you can help ensure a smooth curve to the bow and not have the tendency of a straight plank/low section between bulkheads.

    What has worked for me is dividing the hull into three planking bands, with the middle of the hull equal to X number of full width planks.  Doing that leaves a much easier space to work within.  Then you take tick strips to measure the planking distance at each bulkhead.  That gives a good idea of where planks may need to start narrowing, and where you might need a stealer plank or two if the planking distance is greater than the area at the belly -- that's usually at the stern, but interestingly from your pictures, it looks like this might not be the case for the DoK.

    Every hull is different, but I think measuring the planking distance along bulkheads really helps avoid the natural tendency to want to press the plank against the one you just did, and letting the plank lie naturally is the best.  This is a picture from my Euromodel La Renommee build - this hull is really curvy, but you can see how at the bow, in some cases I had to narrow planks, and some places I had to use stealers - even within a few rows of each other.  It's been a while, but I think I started planking from the top down, then when I had to start modifying planks, I switched to planking from the keel up.  I also used filler blocks which really helped things immensely (second picture below).  I probably won't need much, if any, filler on this hull.  Much different story from my first three hulls!

    image.thumb.jpeg.54ea9930f52d22cd29fd73ab03a4efce.jpeg

    image.thumb.jpeg.c8c6f42c688081bf7836a5c883f0b2a5.jpeg

     

    You're doing a really great job so hang in there.  :) 

    • Like 7
    • Thanks 2

    Duchess of Kingston - Beauty of the Seas - Wooden Sailing Ship 1/64

    in Non LSM 'WIP

    Posted

    Looking good!  I had the same experience planking my hulls as well - can usually at most get three strakes on.  Better to take your time now, which will just save time later when you have to sand and fill, etc.  

    On the four hulls I planked, I think I started from the bulwarks down, got to around the middle of the hull, then started planking from the keel up.  I'd at least consider thinking about putting the garboard strake down (the bottom-most plank along the keel).  Depending on the hull, it can have a bit of a funky shape since it goes from practically vertical at the stern end to close to horizontal at the belly and then back to vertical near the bow.  You definitely want a clean line of that plank against the keel and stem, and I think it's easier to fit a custom plank in the middle than fit a garboard at the very end - at least that's what I was thinking.

    Of course this is all less of an issue for the first planking.  Also, if you are going to paint the lower hull white for 'white stuff' then it matters less too.

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1

    Duchess of Kingston - Beauty of the Seas - Wooden Sailing Ship 1/64

    in Non LSM 'WIP

    Posted

    52 minutes ago, DocRob said:

    Muchas gracias Amigos.

    Meanwhile I prepare my bench for planking and layed out all necessary tools. The cutter is great for the lime planks with almost no denting near the cut. For longitudinal cutting, I will use a steel ruler.

    Cheers Rob

     

     

    I have that same cutter from RP Tools - it looks like AK rebranded it.  I've tried some of the other cutters out there, and this one by far is the best.  Good choice!

    For longitudinal cutting, make sure your blade is super sharp if using a steel ruler.  I learned the hard way that if dull, the blade could jump the plank if using a thin ruler and find your fingers.  Not fun!  I found this item from Micromark makes cutting a lot safer, though haven't used it recently as I bought a thicker steel rule and keep sandpaper nearby to hone the blade after a few cuts.

    https://www.micromark.com/Straight-Edge-6-Inches-Long

    image.png.0be5e11578e255f4207f528a00ab8589.png

    • Like 4

    Duchess of Kingston - Beauty of the Seas - Wooden Sailing Ship 1/64

    in Non LSM 'WIP

    Posted

    Looks great Rob!  Putting the gunport patterns on is one of the more stressful parts of the build - congrats on getting past it, it's all downhill from here :)

    I have to say, this looks like a really good kit even for a complete beginner.  The instruction manual is an incredibly detailed practicum, and the design of the kit is such that it helps the builder avoid some of the trickier parts of building wooden ship models - no need for filler blocks or rabbets, framing of the hull is designed to eliminate any flex and keep everything perfectly square, positioning of the gunport patterns is simplified, etc.  My first model was the Caldercraft Brig Badger which was a well designed kit with a great instruction manual, but nothing quite like the DoK.  Even though the Badger is a simpler two-masted brig with no ornamentation, I still think the DoK would be an easier kit to build.  I also like how the stern ornamentation is in resin, as opposed to multiple layers of PE or worse yet, white metal - looks great!

    I probably sound like a broken record, but the framing of the hull on this kit is really impressive.  If you are a stickler for symmetry, you need to make sure that the false keel and bulkheads are at perfect 90 degrees to each other, without any flex or warp.  Using MDF, particularly with the extra braces in this kit, is an easy way to make sure that everything will be rock solid.  Older kits tend to use other materials like plywood or basswood for the false keel and bulkheads, which are prone to warping and flexing.  Warped false keels are notorious in certain kits.  As an example, I'm building a Euromodel La Renommee kit at the moment, which is a really beautiful kit.  The first false keel had a significant warp to it, and Euromodel kindly sent me a replacement.  The replacement had a very slight wave in it around the back 2/3 of the false keel, and it took me the better part of 6-8 hours to adjust all the bulkheads, etc. to make sure that everything was symmetrical.  Learned a lot doing that, but man, I'd rather be spending those hours building rather than fixing a defect.

    • Like 5

    Duchess of Kingston - Beauty of the Seas - Wooden Sailing Ship 1/64

    in Non LSM 'WIP

    Posted

    2 hours ago, DocRob said:

    I take my time with the bulwarks as it is like you said of great importance to do it right as the first step of planking. The used 0,8 mm plywood is very durable and rigid and not so easy to bend. After the first process of soaking in hot water and leaving to dry overnight, clamped to a tin, I found it necessary to repeat the process with a tighter radius. 
    Other than your description Chris recommends to let the soaked and clamped wood completely dry, before installing it, because of the expansion of the damp wood. I followed his advice.

    When i've done my planking, after pinning soaked planks, I let them dry overnight and then glue them the next day.  Then I add another row or two of soaked planks and let those dry overnight.  Takes me a while to plank that way, but I find especially with the first planking, which is typically lime or basswood, the wood can hold a lot of water and will contract quite a bit after drying.  It's not a huge problem as you can use filler if it's the first planking, but taking a slower, more methodical approach leads to minimal need for filling and sanding gaps, plus, it helps me determine the lines of planking runs for the second planking.  Some people use hair dryers to speed things along, some people just deal with the gaps later at the end, etc., so there are certainly different approaches when it comes to planking.

    Just take your time and with your skills, you'll have a beautifully planked hull.  The nice thing is that if you make mistakes on the lower portion, you can always cover it up with white paint if you are intending to show the model with "white stuff" on the lower hull.

    2 hours ago, DocRob said:

    You have a good point, about possibly thinning stern part of the keel. I will build up the rudder, which will help to estimate the correct thickness of the stern post.

    In the manual, looks like steps 74-78 cover the stern post assembly.  It looks like Chris suggests sanding almost all the planking off at the end of the false keel.  You could always make up the stern post (interesting that it's in multiple parts, as most kits just have the full post as a single part) and dry fit it to make sure you have a smooth continuum of planking to the post.

    I have to say, after just now skimming the instruction manual, you picked a really great kit.  Not only is the manual so clear and informative, but Chris has put in a lot of extra work to make the more difficult parts of wooden model ship building easier.  For example, as you mentioned, he has done away with the need for filler blocks and rabbets - which are a pain!  I also like that he included multiple support rails on either side of the false keel to ensure the rigidity of the skeleton as well as making sure the bulkheads remain square.  I've found the bulkheads to have a bit of flex especially when they are plywood or basswood, so I've resorted to putting in spacer blocks between the bulkheads so they don't flex and remain square.  Chris's approach obviates the need for that, though there was probably less of a need with his use of MDF over more flexible materials.  I first saw that approach in I think the MariStella kits, and was like, wow, why don't more kit manufacturers do that as spacer blocks are a pain to measure, cut and install!

    Speaking of MDF, I don't know if you are using a rotary tool to bevel the bulkheads or hand tools.  Be careful if using rotary tools - on my Pegasus, the bulkheads were similarly MDF and when I used a rotary tool to bevel the bulkheads, the MDF started burning a bit giving off a gas that gave me a nasty coughing fit.  Probably from the adhesives in the MDF.

    • Like 4
    • Thanks 1

    Two little Brewsters, now a Buddy Build.

    in LSM 1/35 and Larger Work In Progress

    Posted

    @Clunkmeister and @Martinnfb, sorry to interrupt your log.  I wasn't quite sure where to put this question, and wasn't sure if the buddy build thread was still open to other builds - happy to join if you guys will have me.

    I've been working on the Special Hobby 1/48 Brewster Buffalo 339-28 kit, and since I can't seem to build anything OOB, I bought a whole bunch of CMK and other AM for the kit.  One of the AM sets I bought was the Brengun Buffalo controls and flaps set, which seems to be identical to a similar set from Griffon.  The instructions are confusing, to put it kindly:

    image.png.1be1d8708fe603d30e2770b6b44f736f.png

     

    image.jpeg.4654362bc848011ea5ac14abb5ba4799.jpeg

     

    What I'm confused about is (1) do parts 4 and 3, with the ribs, go on the bottom of the upper side of the wing like the picture below, or are they the drop portion of the aileron, and (2) what to do with parts 2+5 (and 1+6).  

    image0.jpeg.ae1bb2afc9143c4010cabe255de8a825.jpeg

    Given the way the hole in parts 4 and 3 line up with the open section of the top of the wing where the wing gun port is (see picture above), it seems to me that these parts fit against the underside of the top of the wing, and would be the fixed portion of the aileron.  This seems to be the approach for the Brengun set for the 1/32 kit:

    image.png.169834c9cf323c6f18f7a6b0afe3f4d8.png

     

    Where I'm really confused is where the ribs should go.   In the 1/32 package in the picture immediately above shows the ribs on the bottom portion of the aileron that drops, whereas the 1/48 set seems to include the ribs on the top fixed portion.  The 1/48 kit only gives you enough ribs for the parts 4 and 3 with the open section, so the ribs have to go on those parts.  On the other hand, the picture below is taken from Naval Fighters Number 104, which suggests that the ribs go on the bottom section of the aileron that drops:

    442953086_IMG_2959copy.jpeg.88241531bfa8bc2eeb85d414fd61ccff.jpeg

     

    Parts 2+5/1+6.  Once I know where parts 4 and 3 go (fixed portion of aileron or drop portion -- I'm thinking it has to be the top fixed portion), then I need to figure out how parts 2+5 should fit together.  The parts have one side with what looks like small rivets or bumps (side shown in picture below), and the other side is completely flat.

    image1.jpeg.5edca39f0785c5cba789571af27d5863.jpeg

    I can't tell from the pictures whether I (1) create a triangle with the two pieces by doing the long fold, then having the part with the open spaces finish the triangle, or (2) glue the open spaces part directly onto the other part, then do the long fold which somehow locks the part into the wing, or (3) glue the smooth sides of the two parts together back to back like the picture below.  I don't think (3) is correct because the pictures of bottom of the wings of the real thing suggests that the aileron was completely flat, and not grooved or with rivets/bumps as would be if I took approach 3.

    image2.jpeg.db9f88c87aa24895b46eefc425b9ab3b.jpeg

     

    From the instructions, I'm thinking that maybe (1) above is the way to go.  The triangular shape of the two pieces glued together would somewhat resemble the ribs on the dropped portion of the aileron.

    Ernie and Martin, and anyone else with thoughts or suggestions, I'd love to hear them.  I've spent hours trying to figure this out, and even emailed Brengun but got no response :(  Thanks in advance, and sorry for mucking up your log!

    • Like 5
    • Thanks 2

    Duchess of Kingston - Beauty of the Seas - Wooden Sailing Ship 1/64

    in Non LSM 'WIP

    Posted

    A couple of other things I thought I'd pass along:

    1.  Not sure if Chris suggests using filler blocks, but they can be really helpful at the bow and stern areas where the planks bend a lot yet have few attachment points.  I didn't use them on my Badger (first build), but tried using them on my next builds and found them to be a life saver.

    2.  Also not sure if Chris recommends cutting in a rabbet along the bottom of the keel and stem post for clean planking.

    3.  I've found that the back end of the false keel (where the stern post sits) generally needs to be thinned down quite a bit, as you are running one or two layers of planking into the stern post on each side, which usually makes it considerably thicker than the stern post.  There are multiple ways to deal with this, but I find thinning the end of the false keel in anticipation of the planking layers that will hit it makes things much easier.  EDIT:  Just saw that Ernie ran into this on his build.

    4.  Are you planning on mounting the model on pedestals?  If so, you might want to consider how you are going to do this (maybe Chris' kit already makes arrangements for this).  I used some #6 machine screws (2" or more in length), which are epoxied into the false keel.  There is a channel drilled through the keel for the screws.  You need to take into account the length of the pedestals, how far up the false keel the nuts need to be to avoid interfering with the planking, placement of the pedestals so visually the model looks supported, etc.  Easier to do all this before the planking goes on.  Here is a picture from my Pegasus log on MSW (which also shows the bearding line and thinned down area near the stern post, and not too clearly shows the rabbet along the keel and stem post):

    image.thumb.png.27d99582653b08dfc2950c275b7b2e5d.png

    EDIT:  Just saw that the kit provides an acrylic stand.  Personally, I like pedestals to better show off the hull than a cradle type stand, but the one with this kit looks great.

    5.  I can't quite tell from the pictures if you will have stubs to cut off at the tops of the bulkheads once you have planked the decks and bulwarks, but I found veneer saws to be very helpful removing the stubs.  

    image.thumb.png.c75f003d9967b44b39abc35bf7aae5c9.png

     

    Again, my apologies if you already know all this - just thought I would pass these along in case they might be helpful to you or to others that are new to wooden ship models.

    • Like 7
    • Thanks 2

    Duchess of Kingston - Beauty of the Seas - Wooden Sailing Ship 1/64

    in Non LSM 'WIP

    Posted

    Hi Rob, great start so far.  I wasn't sure if this was your first wooden kit or not, so forgive me if you already have experience with all this.

    Take your time with the pre-formed bulwarks, as you need to fit them correctly and accurately or you'll have problems down the road.  Soaking followed by pinning/clamping, let dry, then repeat.  On my Pegasus build, I did this maybe three cycles.  I found that the plywood has a tendency to spring back, and the subsequent soakings/pinnings after the first have diminishing returns.  One good thing about doing it a few times is that the plywood tends to soften as the fibers (?) stretch out and you can build in a concave/convex curvature in the bulwarks - that was a feature in the Pegasus, not sure about the DoK.

    Get lots of clamps and pins, and use levels to make sure that the heights of the bulwark patterns are equivalent on both sides.  A key thing would be to stick the keel spine perpendicular in a jig so that you can use mini levels.

    For plank bending, I haven't used that particular tool, which I think might score the underside of the plank to assist with bending.  When I need to put a good sized bend in the planks, I usually go with either of these two bending tools, which I believe I purchased from MicroMark (the second one is awfully expensive now, I love mine but I'm pretty sure I didn't spend anywhere near that on it when I bought it):

    image.png.079b3ac66dded4c3344ebc8fc63621f9.png

    image.thumb.png.d9e6c56ba643fdeafaabd11b88ce927e.png

    I've also used this heat based one when working with ebony, as ebony doesn't really comply very well when trying the soak and bend method:

    image.thumb.png.985863c07c67bcec71558e3a3ae3e720.png

    • Like 6
    • Thanks 2

    Duchess of Kingston - Beauty of the Seas - Wooden Sailing Ship 1/64

    in Non LSM 'WIP

    Posted

    Rob, 

    To insert pins, I tried a ton of different products.  The Amati pin pusher was the best "pin pusher" product out there, but it died after my first build.  Since then, I found these spike insertion pliers.  I think mine may be from Xuron, but this is the Micromark product:

    https://www.micromark.com/Spike-Insertion-Plier

     

    I found it allows you enough strength to hold the pin and manually push it through the plank into the bulkhead, filler block, etc.  You don't have to insert the pins all the way down to the head with the tool, so once the glue is dry, you can then use the tool to pull the pins out and re-use them.  It's the easiest tool I've used to pin planks to the model.

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1

    1/700 IJN Destroyer Hatsuzakura - PitRoad with Fivestar aftermarket (completed)

    in Non LSM 'WIP

    Posted

    Thanks guys!  

    Bomber, my 1/350 destroyer (Hasegawa's Shimakaze with the excellent Infini upgrade set) is just about done, but can post a bunch of the WIP pics I took along the way.  Hopefully should have that completed in the next week or so.  I'm also currently working on a 1/700 IJN minelayer Yaeyama, which is a FiveStar resin and PE kit.  I've had to supplement it, but it's been a nice kit.  I'll post that one too if people are interested.  I just don't want to annoy people posting modeling subjects and smaller scale projects that really aren't the intended subjects for this forum.

    • Like 2

    1/700 IJN Destroyer Hatsuzakura - PitRoad with Fivestar aftermarket (completed)

    in Non LSM 'WIP

    Posted

    I'm near the finish line on my current 1/350 destroyer build, and wanted to put it in a waterline diorama.  Since I've never done one before, I pulled out the Hatsuzakura as a test run.  I used the crinkled foil technique with Liquitex heavy gel medium and cotton for the waves and wakes.  Pretty happy with the way it turned out.  I think the waterline diorama setting really brings these models to life.

    Thanks for looking in!  I'll get to a large scale model soon, I promise!

    IMG_2699.JPG

    IMG_2700.JPG

    IMG_2701.JPG

    IMG_2702.JPG

    IMG_2703.JPG

    IMG_2704.JPG

    IMG_2705.JPG

    IMG_2706.JPG

    IMG_2707.JPG

    IMG_2708.JPG

    IMG_2710.JPG

    IMG_2713.JPG

    IMG_2714.JPG

    • Like 3
    • Thanks 1

    COVID still kicking my ass.

    in General Discussion

    Posted

    My kids all got it this past weekend, but it was like a mild cold for them and they are pretty much better.  I think I had it back in March 2020, where I felt really tired near the end of the work day but no other symptoms and feel similarly now.  Tested negative this weekend, but feel like I'm at least fighting it.  Got the shots, but didn't get the booster.

    Seems like everyone is getting it.  It's pretty rampant down here where I live.  Last two years, I barely knew anyone that got it.  This past month or so, I know a ton of people that have gotten it.  Thankfully everyone has been handling it fairly well.

    • Like 2
    • Sad 1
×
×
  • Create New...