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Problem keeping the riveting tool straight


tomv1987

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Hello all-

Does anyone have a suggestion to keep my riveting on the right path? I have been trying to replace lost rivet detail on the bottom fuselage of a Zero (1/32). I pull out my Dymo tape, lay the path, but when I run my riveting tool down the path, it is either jumping up on the Dymo tape, or otherwise off the path somehow. I know it takes patience to rivet, and I try to go slow, one line at a time, but I have sanded and tried to re-rivet  this area three times. I am using the Trumpeter Rivet wheel. Do you guys think this might be the problem? I have to push down with enough pressure to impart the rivets, yet half the time, the wheel just goes where it wants. Any suggestions would be greatly helpful!

 

Thanks in advance!

 

Tom

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The Trump tool is lacking in that it has a plastic axle for the rivitting wheel. Doing my B-17 I found it to bo too weak to imprint the rivits evenly. The axle broke. S o I swapped out the plastic wreck and used a shoulder bolt type of metal axle. I also added sheet metal 'stirrups' to allow my fingers to apply downward pressure only. This solved the problem:

IMG_1971.jpg

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I use Radu's riveting tools. They are the mutts nuts. There are corner wheels for getting right up to raised detail too.

Even after all these years I still almost pee my pants when I hear or read that. Radu make's some of the best tools and accessories. Wish he had a US distributor.

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None of this solves the 'wheel waver' problem described.

 

I have RB's set as well, ingeniuos to make it fit an Exacto holder.

 

A stainless steel drafting ruler , with the cork liner, helped with the dreaded WW syndrome, allowing a rigid edge to run the wheel against.

 

I also tried 2 runs of Dymo , straddling the rivit line.

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Thank you all for your recommendations! Really appreciate it!

 

Krow, I have straddled two layers of Dymo as well, but still had the same problem. The ruler idea sounds good too. I think I need to invest in some of those flexible metal rulers. And you are right, the plastic axle on that Trump tool is half the problem.

 

Yes, I also have seen Radu's riveting wheel and have been debating whether or not to order some. Now I think I will. The right tool for the job as they say!  ;)

 

Many thanks,

Tom

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The rivetter's teeth are sharp and will snag anything softer than metal.

I use my Trimaster scribing templates, or purpose-cut aliminium litho strip, as a guide. I then tape it securely to the part I'm scribing.

 

The metal edge is high enough to afford a solid datum. Then I s-l-o-w-l-y and firmly run the rivetter along the edge of the guide.

For better definition I will run the rivetter slowly back and forth a second time. The secret to rivetting is to apply three or four rivet marks for each section.

Keep the rivetter in contact as you do this, however, to avoid breaking the rivet distances.

This is the skill-set you develop.

 

Hope it helps!

 

Regards

 

Ross

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Look closely at the wings I attached to my Trump tool.

 

Very little pressure is needed to actually hold the tool.

 

A minimal grip affords a more decet amount of downward force to be applied.

 

This solved the wheel walk for me.

 

I did this because tossing aside a tool due to a slight imperfection is not good.

 

All the parts came from simple sources. Took me longer to devise the plan than to make the parts and get the tool back into the production schedule.

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I also noticed that the Trump tool leaves a square-ish shaped dimple instead of circular. I saw a suggestion on a site about filling down the sides of the wheel to minimize this effect (which I have done). I guess you get what you pay for. 

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I also noticed that the Trump tool leaves a square-ish shaped dimple instead of circular. I saw a suggestion on a site about filling down the sides of the wheel to minimize this effect (which I have done). I guess you get what you pay for

As a former mechanic and someone who does all his own vehicle and home maintenance, you are absolutely correct. Buy it like you intend never to buy one again.

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I also noticed that the Trump tool leaves a square-ish shaped dimple instead of circular. I saw a suggestion on a site about filling down the sides of the wheel to minimize this effect (which I have done). I guess you get what you pay for. 

 

 

 This is rather noticable, I sanded lightly to remove the 4 peaks created by the excavation of the plastic. The tool mod sounds ok too.

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I really appreciate all the tips and input from you guys. I have been lurking around this site (and several others) for the past few years, just looking all the incredible build shots, and reading and researching all the tips and tools that are recommeded.

 

I will incorporate ALL of your tips the next time I get to sit down at my bench.

 

I think I will also post some in-progress photos of my build (in the build section of course) so you all can see how it's coming. The problem for me is time, so the progress is slow. I work full time, but have the summers off; except this sumer. This summer I start graduate school, which will further retard my progress, but I digress...

 

Thanks

Tom

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  • 2 weeks later...

I use the Trumpeter wheel to mark the out the missing ares of rivets from sanding etc... and then I use a pin to made them a tad deeper.

 

Yep. That's the way I tried to use it too. 

 

Tom

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