JayDee

Two updates in a number of days? Not like me! Ok, I know Uschi says that if you lower the tack on masking tape, then you can take a tape profile of the panel you are decaling, then transfer direct to the decal. My experiences have been poor of that as I tend to lift the decal from the sheet. My way of doing this, which is a little more time intensive, is to mark out the panel on the model, using making tape, then I peel this off and stick to very thin card. A good quality cereal box is what I use. I then take the card template, place it on the decal sheet and trace around it with a fresh scalpel. This is a test piece I did for the Natter. I actually removed/destroyed this afterwards as my intention is to produce all panels as decal parts before I apply them in one session. The reason for that is that I don't want to risk lifting any parts that are stuck down. That would make a serious mess. Anyway......here you go.

No Tamiya paint here....just Gunze, and all shades are already gloss, ready for decaling tonight

It's been a while since I updated here, but you know what it's like. Too much time with much laughter, and enjoying life with fantastic friends Anyway, I've been preparing the Natter for its false plumes by following Uschi's pre-decal paint regime, and despite it taking a day with each of the layers, it's now finally ready to receive the decals. With the fuselage finally buttoned up, I replaced any lost panel line detail with my Mr Hobby scriber and infinite lengths of Dymo Tape. The kit itself didn't have anywhere near enough panel lines to represent the number of wooden panels that the Natter had. Under the regular paintwork, there were far more panels, many of where puttied. All timber was also glued and nailed. I intend to add HGW wood nail decals after the Uschi wood grain decals are added. I removed the pips on the wing roots that aligned the wings to the fuselage. I drilled their positions instead with a drill bit that matched the holes I drilled in the fuselage wing root. This was the same diameter as a cocktail stick. I intended to use one of these for the wing spar. A little real timber to supplement the plastic. Next up, the various assemblies were airbrushed in Gunze 'Flesh' before being heavily pre-shaded in black. Next up was a coat of heavily diluted Flesh. This was to help balance out the base coat and pre-shade. After leaving for 24hrs to dry, Gunze Radome was used to highlight the panel centres, before a balancing coat of heavily thinned Radome helped to balance things out again. If that wasn't enough, Radome was then mixed 50:50 with white, before the same process was repeated. To break things up a little, a few panels were lightly shaded with the original Flesh, again, heavily thinned. I will be using both a mix of pale and rich wood grain decal, but those Flesh tinted panels will help to break things up further. It looks like shit at the moment, but I promise it will come good. I did a couple of decal tests to see how it looked

...you sends yer sample, you gets yer banner I'm starting to use these on the Natter tomorrow evening

Nice review! I might not like NMF, but I quite like the machines with a mix of olive and NMF. I could go for that.

1:32 Four Colour Upper/Lower Lozenge Decal with rib tapes Old Propeller Catalogue number: see article Available from Arrow Wolf Models for £9.99 per set We've written a number of articles recently which relate to the increasingly popular genre of WW1 aviation modeling. Whether it be kits from Wingnut Wings or Eduard, aftermarket detail sets from HGW, or indeed the fabulous spoked wheels we recently looked at. Whilst HGW themselves have produced their own lozenge decal sheets, until now, they were really the only game in town for 1:32, with the exception of the decals already supplied in the Wingnut Wings kits. Very shortly, we'll have a whole range of new releases from Aviattic, but in the meanwhile, we thought it would be useful to introduce these rather excellent lozenge decal sheets from Czech company, Old Propeller. Under their 'Wood & Wire – Fabric Lozenge series', we have these initial two releases which we think you'll be seriously impressed with. D32004, 4 colour upper Lozenge with rib tapes, 1:32, £9.99 D32005, 4 colour lower Lozenge with rib tapes, 1:32, £9.99 Both of these decal sets are presented in a large, re-sealable clear wallet with a product hanger topmost. Each set contains two sheets of decals, A4 in size. The actual lozenge sheet has four lengths of lozenge, 250mm long, and at a pre-determined scale width, whilst the second sheet contains a multitude of rib tape decal in both salmon pink and powder blue colours. This is noticeably more vivid than the actual lozenge decal, which creates an outstanding effect as seen in these images of a Wingnut Wings Albatros D.V, built by Darren Newport (Coolbox) on the Large Scale Modeller forums. The first thing that strikes you when you see the lozenge is just how ultra-realistic it looks. The real thing was printed onto Irish linen, and of course you would still see some of the warp and weft of the fabric, irrespective of the inks used to colour it. This is what Old Propeller have tried to create here, and in my eye, they've nailed it. Of course, this is another one of those things which some will argue against and say that the fabric weave wasn't really noticeable, so at 1:32, it should be almost, if not completely invisible. I suppose it's like the panel line argument all over. If you've seen the lozenge decal which is supplied with Wingnut Wings kits, you'll certainly be struck as to just how different this approach looks. It makes the WNW decals look quite radioactive in their colour intensity and solidity. Remember that the WNW decals are printed as solid colour lozenge with no fabric representation. I have seen modellers work absolute wonders with the kit stock decals, as Jeroen Veen did with the Fokker D.VII which was/is to be published in Tamiya Model magazine. Jeroen toned down his decals with oils to fade things out and make it look more organic. These decal sheets are FOUR colour lozenge, whereas WNW supply FIVE colour, but I have tried to show you the difference in approach between the two types of decal. For the Albatros that Darren built using Old Propeller decals, he used carbon to gently tone the fabric adjacent to the rib tapes, then he used a fixative spray to set everything in place. Combined with the actual fabric appearance of the decal, the effect really does look like fabric stretched and tightened between ribs. Quite outstanding. The printing of the lozenge is also of the very highest standard, with beautifully reproduced colour across the strip. The accompanying sheet states that there was a slight over-printing of colours on the real thing, and they have indeed represented this on these sheets. Whilst subtle, I can indeed see that effect. I think something is slightly lost in translation on the instruction sheet, but from what I can gather, the lozenge is produced on a high grade laser printer, whilst the rib tapes are produced in the traditional way using silk-screen methods. It would certainly appear to be so as the tapes have a thickness to them over the top of the carrier film, whereas the lozenge doesn't. The instructions also suggest you lay a coat of Mr Surfacer 1000 over the wing/fuselage to be decaled, and polish. Of course, this is standard practice, but it also mentions pre-shading around the 'ports'. I presume from this, it actually means 'ribs'. If that pre-shade can be seen, it of course means there is at least a slight translucency in the decals, so be careful about whether you use grey or white primer. Try a test piece first. An 'installing lotion' is mentioned, but of course, this is a decal setting solution. It does say only to use on the underside of the decals, presumably to protect the laser inks. No filters are required either, as this may impair the visual aspect of the fabric texture. Conclusion These decal sets are stunning, and I hope to be able to bring you further products from this exciting company. I've already decided to strip the Pfalz D.IIIa wings and use the correct Old Propeller equivalent sets. I'll keep you updated on that. In the meanwhile, seriously consider giving this product a try. You can see the results for yourself. Very highly recommended James H. Review samples courtesy of Arrow Wolf Models. To purchase directly, click THIS link.

Wood Grain Decals Uschi van der Rosten Catalogue and price: See article inventory Available from Uschi van der Rosten and Arrow-Wolf Models It's been a while since we featured Uschi van der Rosten's original wood grain decal here on SP&R, and I remember it being a product which was released at the perfect time with regard to an explosion of World War 1 modelling. Many things must still surely put modellers off trying this genre. Two of the main ones that come to mind are rigging, and of course depicting the various timber panels and boards that these early birds had. Of course, it's not just WW1 modelling that benefited from Uschi's wood grain decals, but it also laid the way wide open to many different uses, from dioramas, to civilian vehicles, and also to some rather nice 'bare bones' studies of military aircraft in their bare wood and metal forms. Uschi's decals are unusual in that they still require a number of basic model painting skills to use properly. This of course applies to the sets which we have here now too, and we will come onto that shortly. For a reminder of just what can be achieved with wood grain decal, here is the fuselage of my Wingnut Wings LVG C.VI that I built a couple of years ago. This was completed with a single sheet of the Rich decal. You might think that you need more than one set for these larger 1:32 birds, but it is enough. I didn't get these new sets of decals in the conventional way, i.e. through the post, with an accompanying email/letter. Instead, I arranged to meet Alex and his wonderful wife in Munich, where we arranged a nice evening meal. Some superb German wine and Weissbier flowed. A much welcomed break with fantastic friends. Accompanied by my wife, we spent a few hours chatting away and Alex explained his ideas to me as he always does. He also brought with him the F-86 Sabre droptank that he'd been using to promote his latest wood veneer decals. Now that was seriously impressive. At the meeting, Alex provided me with the following decal sets: WGP-1, (1:48,1:32,1:32), 'Bright Planking, coarse/fine, 14,99 € WGP-2, (1:48,1:32,1:32), 'Dark Planking, coarse/fine, 14,99 € WGSF-48C (1:72, 1:48, 1:32), Assorted Veneer, fine/medium/coarse, 14,99 € Go to this link to purchase. And to compliment this article, Grant of Arrow-Wolf Models has sent a sample of Uschi's knotless woodgrain decal: WGSF-48B, 'Knotless', Rich/pale, £14 Knotless The 'knotless' decal sheet is perhaps the first of this latest batch to have been released, and was developed in response to modellers who wished to create a realistic timber appearance, but without the multitude of knots that the previous releases had printed. This makes sense as some WW1 aircraft were indeed skinned with timber that was more uniform in appearance. An example of this is shown below on a reproduction Albatros D.III which is currently being flown from Munich's Flugwerft Oberschelissheim museum. It was with this machine in mind, and in multi-pitcorial form, that Uschi developed this particular set. The 'Knotless package', like all Uschi wood grain decal sets, contains TWO sheets of decal, measuring approximately 200mm x 120mm. One sheet contains a full printing of a knotless design in 'Rich' colour. The pattern is repetitive, and you will need to mix and match the various panels in order to break things up a little, but as you can see from the LVG whose decal was similar in execution, that is very simple to achieve. The second sheet contains a paler representation of the knotless approach, but importantly, it isn't the same pattern as the rich colour sheet, enabling the two to work organically together when used in conjunction. Planking We are perhaps beginning to see a woodgrain decal solution for diorama modellers with these two releases. It's highly unlikely that these decal sheets would be suitable for an actual aircraft, but they could be used for some aspects of vehicles, such as those flat back trucks used for both military and civilian purposes. Ship diorama modellers will also see a use too, as the planking pattern system on some of these sheets is very indicative of the patterns used on the decks of timber ships. There are two sheets in each set; light planking, fine/coarse, and dark planking, fine/coarse. One of the lighter sheets doesn't have any planking system employed except for single, long lengths run together consecutively. This is very useful in its own right, or even as something which could be cut up and reassembled in your own staggered planking format. The colours of the other sheets does tend to lend these decals to be used for diorama use, as stated, because the colour of the timbers is similar to what you may find on the floors of domestic dwellings. The package description states that the planking decals can be used for vehicles, as stated, aircraft, furniture, and also diorama items such as crates. What a cool idea! From that, you could look at duck-boards, timber beams, worktops, pallets etc. Never underestimate just what you can use these for! Veneer Simply, this decal set contains two sheets of fine-grain wood veneer decal. The first sheet is singularly printed with a beautifully fine veneer pattern, with a superb appearance, and a pattern which doesn't look at all bad with regard to repetition. For me, this is probably the nicest looking of Uschi's sheets, and this specific sheet will have 1000's of uses for the modeller. Uschi describes this appearance as that of 'birchwood' which is very typical of the WW1 aircraft fuselages that were left in bare timber and varnished. I don't think he's far off the mark there. I'll be using some of this in my current Bachem Ba 349 build on Large Scale Modeller, in which the finish will be left in bare timber and metal as a study of the aircraft's construction. The second sheet is split into 3 areas. These are fine, medium and coarse representations, although please understand that all of them are still rather fine in relation to regular timber, but instead show a different style of pattern, which when displayed alongside the regular main sheet decals, should look amazing. All of these decal sheets are superbly printed, with a pretty non-visible pixilation, unless you look very, very closely. That aspect is nothing at all to worry about, and won't affect the finish of your model. Having used Uschi decal before, I know that this grade of decal film does allow repositioning, even under setting solution, yet still works beautifully with those solutions. You will also find that the decals can be worked by finger into various compound curves, and can be made to cover just about any shape surface. The decals are also printed with a transparent backing. This means that you will need to apply various base colours and shading to your model before you apply the decal to this. This allows you to work with your own tones and highlights and if you mix and match things a little, you can get various impressions from the very same sheet of decal. The possibilities are endless, and I would suggest that you test these base colours and decal ensembles before you begin your project proper. Conclusion Wood grain decals are Uschi van der Rosten's signature product, and he sure knows how to deliver. The products are superbly researched and meticulously recreated before undergoing testing prior to release. You need to know that you cannot apply masking tape directly to the top of the decal sheet when you transfer the various panel shapes from your model to the sheet. You'll need to reduce the tack of this first, or you'll lift the decal from the sheet. When you've mastered the process of transferring shapes, you can, for example, decal a whole fuselage in a couple of hours. Practice makes perfect. This is a top notch product produced by a guy who actually cares about your results. I've tried the product, and I can vouch for it totally. Very highly recommended James H My thanks to Uschi van der Rosten and Arrow-Wolf Models for the review samples used here. To purchase directly, click the links in the review.

you might want to ask Dave about that

Always great to see some WNW builds on here

Get back to your WNW kit!

Looks like one for the 'to buy' list...

Welcome to LSM! Your titles look seriously nice. I hope you'll share more information with us.

MSW is a sister site

Hi Sebastian. Welcome to LSM. We cater to both Armour/AFV and aircraft in 1:35+ scales. Jim

Pimp!

Darren, that really has to be the best Albatros I've seen. Your construction, finishing techniques and use of that new loz decal. The whole package. I hope you won't leave us with no ongoing build, and start another WNW immediately

All WW1 models are not small She's looking really good, and you get a good sense of perspective on the Ninak's size too. What do you use as a final finish? (varnish etc?)

Superb Mike. Two of these in stash.......must resist

Hi Cees, Yes, the forward canopy shape was reworked as they weren't happy with the profile and contour. Even in David's finished pictures, it looks pretty damn good, so no doubt we'll be even happier with the new one. Definitely 'Uhu' in appearance, unlike the Revell botch job.

Limitations of injection moulding process I imagine. Not a problem in assembly though.

Absolutely

Conclusion This kit isn’t perfect, but it certainly isn’t too far from the mark. Overall shapes and angles seem to be correct. The revised canopy is certainly more on the money that the one I used on my test build. The complicated fuselage contours seem to be faithfully reproduced, and the whole kit is a masterpiece of intuitive engineering. The wheels hubs don’t look perfect, but of course there are aftermarket solutions available. The crew access ladder cuts too steeply up the side of the fuselage, but these certainly aren’t deal breakers. There is an ejector seat framework absent from the cockpit too. There’s going to be no rushing this build, especially if you are going to complete the interior with full detail, but you really don’t want to rush this kit. My test shot fit together like a dream, with only minor niggles along the way, and ones that could be fathomed or fixed in a few minutes. Before the release of this kit, there was some discussion over the inclusion of the tail bumper for the A-0 version, with some saying this wasn’t correct for this machine. I remember one person haranguing me over this, but I knew that both options were available, so perhaps we’ll see later variants released in future. With the cost of developing this kit, it would certainly make sense to maximize the use of the moulds. The Heinkel He 219 is certainly an ambitious release for such a young brand, but they have carried it off with aplomb. One feels the Revell kit was severely rushed, and probably because of ZM’s intention to release their own kit. The end result for Revell is a severely flawed kit for a reasonable cost (if you’re happy to build a model that ‘looks like a He 219’, but has many, many shape issues), or a more expensive, but far more accurate release from ZM. If you are a modeller who isn’t too bothered about shelling out the initial extra cost for a kit, then it certainly beats trying to correct the multitude of errors with the Revell kit; some of which simply can’t be fixed anyway. The cost of the extra parts to improve the Revell also adds to the cost, whereas you don’t actually need ZM’s extra parts to complete a great OOB model. This has to be one of the ultimate plastic kits currently on the market. Around three years of research and development well spent. A real no brainer if you like bucket-loads of great detail. Very highly recommended Our sincere thanks to Volks Japan for the review sample used here. To purchase directly, click THIS link.

INSTRUCTIONS Next to Wingnut Wings manuals, I would say that the Zoukei-mura ones are my next favourite in terms of style and graphical illustration. Made to look a little like a WW2 document from the front page, this 48 page A4 booklet starts with an introduction on the He 219, followed by an overview of the model kit, describing elements of the actual aircraft design alongside the teams miniature recreation of it. The manual is split into chapters which deal with specific areas of construction, and sub-sections within these which deal with the tail plane, final outfitting etc. There are Vallejo paint codes given throughout construction, and the CAD generated drawings are mostly easy to follow, with just the odd picture being a little ambiguous due to the angle of the CAD render. Still, in respect of the latter, assembly should still be straightforward, although of course I do NOT recommend this for a beginner to the hobby! You certainly need to have your wits about you due to the complexity of the design. Throughout the manual, there are notes within red boxes, and they are called ‘SWS Design Concepts’. These refer to actual detail of the real aircraft, and a technical description. Of course, these details have been reproduced within this kit. A number of illustrative photos of the model appear at regular intervals in order to show partial and completed assemblies. The rear pages of the booklet have an overview of the kit sprues so that you may locate things a little easier. As the plastic is no longer coloured to represent various areas of the project, this becomes a very useful tool. As well as colour photos of the finished model at the rear of the manual for one of the TWO schemes available, we have a colour profile to depict the second scheme. The included schemes are: He 219A-0, Wk.Nr.190012, 2./NJG1, Hptm. Ernst-Wilhelm Modrow He 219A-0, Wk.Nr.190070, STAB I./NJG1, Hptm. Manfred Meurer DECALS A single sheet of decals is supplied, containing all exterior and interior decals, stencils, national markings, and also swastikas, although these are split into two parts in order to comply with some countries draconian democracies. The great news is that ZM are now using Cartograf to print their decals, and the colour definition etc is far better than I’ve seen in their previous kits, especially with regard to the cockpit instrument decals which were so dark as to be unusable on the Ta 152H-1 kit. The decals are printed in perfect register, and with minimal carrier film. The colours look authentic without being too vivid. My only criticism of them is that they are slightly thicker than what we usually see from Cartograf, but of course, that aspect is down to ZM who ordered that specification. The Japanese obviously like thicker decals than non home-marker customers.

OVERALL ASSESSMENT Moulding generally is excellent, with ejector pin marks being quite unobtrusive. Sink marks don’t seem to feature on my sample, and throughout, very little in the way of flash is to be seen, although a small number of parts will need a quick tickle with a fresh blade. Clear parts are superbly transparent, and again, with no other flaw. MASKS A single green vinyl, die-cut mask set is provided. The cutting is sharp, and previous experience with ZM masks has been very good, and they conform well to the various curves of the canopy. METAL PARTS As mentioned and seen in a post above this, a die cast weight is supplied to fit into the forward fuel cell, and all three undercarriage struts are provided as die cast parts too. The overall quality is excellent, but if you wish to go the extra mile, ZM now sell a set produced for them by the amazing G-Factor. These are cast in white bronze. A single metal pin is included for use as the front strut axle.

ERRATA The kit is supplied with its FuG antennae moulded in plastic, and while these look very good, I would perhaps opt for the brass ones which are Zoukei-mura sell as a separate set. The canopy is also provided as two options. The first is the regular moulded set of parts which we are all used to seeing. The second option is more unusual in that a whole delicate canopy frame is provided as a single moulded part, into which a number of clear canopy parts install. Left and right panels are moulded as one, with a trough along the centerline into which the frame installs. For me, I would perhaps try the second options as it should look far more natural than the parts we are used to seeing. Either way, if you don’t get on with the second way of doing this, you still have the regular canopy parts to fall back on.