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Wingco57

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Everything posted by Wingco57

  1. The gap in the spine has been closed. some careful fitting to address the slight mismatch in the spine.
  2. Thanks chaps. @Anthony, if you ask me the Revell is a better option than the Tamiya kit. But it would have to be a C/D or a J obviously. The E I am using has the hose-nose. That is why I use the Tamiya fuselage. Strangely enough it seems the Revell lower wing fits the converted Tamiya intakes better than the original wing.
  3. Sanding mostly done, some putty required but not much. The two kits match very well. The top panel from the Tamiya kit is flatter than the Revell spine. Perhaps replace it or tweak it a bit. Choices, choices. Cees
  4. Here are some pics. Nothing done to the join yet. Cees
  5. Well, it fits pretty good and in fact better than the Tamiya lower wing especially at the front near the intakes. The two halves have been firmly glued together and I am very happy how it has turned out. Minimal sanding requited by the looks of it and most of the Revell panellines can be retained. Will post pics later today. Cheers Cees
  6. Hope you get to it again, an unique project. well, the two halves have been joined in holy matrimony. Very pleased about the fit. Cheers Cees
  7. Thanks Tom, but I swapped the Tamiya kit for something I had laying around for quite some time and the Revell kit was on discount. What happend to your 1/24 Combat vac build by the way? In the meantime one side has been glued with the other to follow. I have cut away the top part as that was impairing the fit. Easier to fit the loose panel later. I want to make sure the join is as clean as possible. Both kits are quite close in that area.
  8. What a lovely model Artro. I especially like the weathering. How did you do the exhaust staining?
  9. More tweaking, getting there slowly. Trialfit between the Tamiya fuselage and the Revell wing. It fits beautifully. The Tamiya plastic is very brittle whereas the Revell parts are nice and flexible. Cees
  10. Really liking this progress. Still tweaking the cutout at the spine (still too much tension) the starboard side is already fine and the port to follow.
  11. Thanks chaps, I am not after the most accurate result but something that is close and resembles the intended model. And thinking about a problem, how to tackle it and solve it is part of the fun. And the sharing of experiences and information greatly adds to that. And I plan to use the Revell wings. In fact crosskitting will be the best option using the strongpoints from both kits. @Barry, will you continue on your magnificent work? Looks strange with one modified bum. Cheers Cees
  12. Pics say more than words. With some tweaking here and there this can work.
  13. I think I have found a way to splice the Revell rear onto the Tamiya kit. We'll see how this works out. Now, where did I put that saw.............
  14. Done and dusted. Great result despite your woes with the fit. But that's modelling. Neeeext!
  15. Indeed, I did that too on the Tamiya but it didn't quite work out....yet. It got a bit messy. There are various possibilities. It's just a matter of which one to use.
  16. Getting the Tamiya rear rounded isn’t going very well...... the sides are too slabsided.
  17. Plan C I got me a Revell F-4F for a nice price and it seems that the bum of this kit (nineties vintage, not the current tool) lends itself very well for a conversion into a FGR2. this is of course the long nose version And not compatible to the Tamiya kit. Perhaps I can mate the two.......somewhere. The rings are 3 mm so a bit too small but you get the idea.
  18. Fantastic result. I think these pics are already good.
  19. Scribing while that beast is in one piece? Mind the overhead lamp (and practically everything that is in a range of 1,5 metres).
  20. No pics at the moment but this build has also received some recent attention. I have been working on replacing the terrible engines/cowling combination with those of the Tamiya Beaufighter which improves the look enormously.
  21. Don't worry Tom, I have crossed the border between failure and success a long time ago as the fuselage, tail and wings have almost been finished and there is a plan how to tackle the nacelles (done that before in 1/48). Now, if you get some more work done on the Shack, or Stirling, or Sunderland.....
  22. If Jeroen uses his 3D drawing skills then I don't have to scratchbuild, but I do have a plan B just in case.
  23. That makes it about 3,1 cm.
  24. Thanks chaps, @Anthony, I am aware that the Spey Toom has more bulk in the rear (hmm) but I have read that the diameter of the can is between 3 and 3,3 mm. I do not want have my cans to look too large. I am in doubt as to whether I should pack out the sides or collapse the "shoulder" near the grille. On pics I have seen that the sides slope down more than the J-version. What do you think? Cheers Cees
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