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tomv1987

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Everything posted by tomv1987

  1. Excellent detail work. Good idea on masking and painting the prop; I'll have to do that on mine. Tom
  2. Thanks Ralph. I'll check that out! Tom
  3. Thanks Mike, Ralph and Steve for the kind comments. This site (and a few others) are what helped me get this far. Tom
  4. Yep. That's the way I tried to use it too. Tom
  5. I just wanted to give back a little bit and show off some in-progress pics of my Tamiya Type 21 Zero. Obligatory box pic: I built LOTS of 1/35 scale Tamiya armor when I was young, so I am well aware of the quality of their kits. So when I managed to pick up this beauty on Ebay for a pretty good price, I was psyched! I decided to start this kit because I thought there would be very little scratchbuilding needed and I could complete the kit quicker. So much for that idea… I did a lot of online research for the cockpit colors, and I would like the interior to be a accurate as possible, but I'm not putting this kit in any show. I bought Tamiya XF-71 cockpit green and Mr. Color lacquer Mitsubishi Cockpit Green, but I think the Tamiya color is too light. I used the Mr. Color for the base color, and over sprayed the Tamiya to provide highlights. Cockpit Floor: I added some solder for detail on the floor (based on a build I saw on another site). Then I used Vallejo acrylics, based on the "Spanish Style" of detail painting; black first on all the raised parts, then the lighter colors. That's Vallejo Mithril Silver for the hydraulic lines. It's hard to believe it's acrylic paint. I didn't add a lot of weathering because I want this kit to depict a Pearl Harbor Zeke. I think these planes were kept in an almost perfect condition (up to that point) by their crews; they were still at peace in the Pacific, and they had the time to keep their planes very clean and well maintained, that is, until the war began to turn against Japan in 1942, and they were lucky to keep anything in the air, clean or not. Cockpit sidewall: I had to fake the white dial on the radio. I either ruined that decal, or lost it. Other side: Another faked dial on the radio unit on the right, far right. I had to paint it in; I destroyed the decal when I punched it out of the sheet. I'm happy with it. Left side control panel: Love the way the dials are engineered on this kit! Very realistic! I think so far so good, this is by far the most detailed cockpit I have ever completed. Tamiya engineering makes the instruments look almost real; a few drops of Future on the dials really made them pop! Instrument panel: If you've never built a Tamiya kit before, you need to get one. I know the 1/32nd Tamiya kits are expensive, but you really need to save your money and bite the bullet! What a fine kit this is! More to come! Tom
  6. Wow inspiring work! Great job!
  7. This is the last kit I got (toward the end of January). Paid $74 (with shipping) on Ebay! It almost doesn't fit on my desk...
  8. Rick- $80 each for those kits is a GREAT deal (even if they do smell like smoke)! Tom
  9. Very very nice! Very realistic looking!
  10. That engine looks like you could start it! Fine job!
  11. These are all surviving parts of kits, or extra parts, that I have hung on to since I was a kid. I also bought some divider bins to semi-categorize the parts (but I have yet to do that yet). This will make things easy to find when I need to scratch parts.
  12. I just wanted to post some pics of my "stash" of leftover vintage model parts and pieces. I think these bits and pieces are a treasure trove, and will help me with parts for any scratch-building i need to do. I'm glad I never threw it out! This is also an opportunity for me to "test" posting pictures into the forums. My dad's old tackle box, which I used for parts storage: Scraps, bits and pieces and various other parts... mostly 1/48, but also 1/35 and 1/32... Lots of figures. See anything you recognize? Tom
  13. I love how those "quick builds" just seem to run on and on. Great work, keep 'em coming! Tom
  14. To hell with the paint set! I like the shirt! (Don't really mean that about the paint set though... )
  15. Hey Ralph That Neo airbrush is pretty sweet. I got one of those from Hobby Lobby--and used their printable "40% off" coupon from their website to boot. Tom
  16. That's how "Model-Hoarding" begins! You won't notice until it's too late! I noticed that model prices on Ebay jumped quite a bit in the past two years. I believe that Revell Lightning kit is the same mold from the 70s. I built one when I was a kid.
  17. I really appreciate all the tips and input from you guys. I have been lurking around this site (and several others) for the past few years, just looking all the incredible build shots, and reading and researching all the tips and tools that are recommeded. I will incorporate ALL of your tips the next time I get to sit down at my bench. I think I will also post some in-progress photos of my build (in the build section of course) so you all can see how it's coming. The problem for me is time, so the progress is slow. I work full time, but have the summers off; except this sumer. This summer I start graduate school, which will further retard my progress, but I digress... Thanks Tom
  18. I also noticed that the Trump tool leaves a square-ish shaped dimple instead of circular. I saw a suggestion on a site about filling down the sides of the wheel to minimize this effect (which I have done). I guess you get what you pay for.
  19. Beautiful work! That desert camo version 109 is one of my favorite paint schemes. Tom
  20. Very nice! Love the weathering. Tom
  21. Thank you all for your recommendations! Really appreciate it! Krow, I have straddled two layers of Dymo as well, but still had the same problem. The ruler idea sounds good too. I think I need to invest in some of those flexible metal rulers. And you are right, the plastic axle on that Trump tool is half the problem. Yes, I also have seen Radu's riveting wheel and have been debating whether or not to order some. Now I think I will. The right tool for the job as they say! Many thanks, Tom
  22. Hello all- Does anyone have a suggestion to keep my riveting on the right path? I have been trying to replace lost rivet detail on the bottom fuselage of a Zero (1/32). I pull out my Dymo tape, lay the path, but when I run my riveting tool down the path, it is either jumping up on the Dymo tape, or otherwise off the path somehow. I know it takes patience to rivet, and I try to go slow, one line at a time, but I have sanded and tried to re-rivet this area three times. I am using the Trumpeter Rivet wheel. Do you guys think this might be the problem? I have to push down with enough pressure to impart the rivets, yet half the time, the wheel just goes where it wants. Any suggestions would be greatly helpful! Thanks in advance! Tom
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