HubertB
-
Posts
2,598 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Posts posted by HubertB
-
-
Hi, you had the same post on LSP before it vanished, and then you post here, how strange ...
If your intentions are real, you will get the same type of answers than on LSP: this is a vey ambitious (and not cheap) endeavour, and you need to make sure you get the grasp of what it means to build a full-size static replica of a modern jet. If you are aware of it, and have the drive for what is a very long-haul project, than fine. After all, a Chinese man built, on his own, a steel replica of an A-320...
A word of advice however : you may not be a native english-speaking person. But, in a first post, asking for donations rather than eliciting help and advice is a « surprising » approach, especially when I remember reading on the - apparently deleted -post on LSP that you had no intention of spending one cent ...
HTH
Hubert
-
3
-
-
8 hours ago, GusMac said:
Is it IM?
Would love one but not sure I can justify the cost.
It is definitely resin.
I have read somewhere a price tag of GBP 180. Not cheap, but that is a lot of resin you get, and not unreasonable compared to a similar-sized IM jet. Plus Boris will make this price tag lower in USD or Euro soon. Kind of instant clearance rebate
Hubert
-
3
-
-
17 minutes ago, [CAT]CplSlade said:
How about a 1/32 kit of a paper airplane?
There is actually a 1/32 paper kit of both the Tu-95 and B-58. And a 1/33 one of the B-52 ... so paper kits of airplanes, close to kits of paper airplanes
Hubert
-
2
-
-
So sorry to read this. Condolences to Joy, her family, and to you as well, of course.
Hubert
-
3
-
-
Ok. I’ll have another go ....
Do-17
Hubert
-
2
-
-
1 minute ago, seiran01 said:
Paul Fisher did a beautiful 1/24 Bugatti 100P kit...
Yes, I know. That is why I said « existing in kit form »
. Still an unlikely choice (but Paul did it on commission).
Hubert
-
3
-
-
Lovely kit, beautifully finished and weathered : it has that unique « well lived » look.
Hubert
-
3
-
-
I can’t remember where I read that Hataka lacquers were good, and acrylics only so so ...
Hubert
-
1
-
-
If it’s about what does not exist ...
HP Heyford, HP Hampden, Lockheed 14, CF-100, CF-105, B-35, Saab J-35, Sikorsky S-39, Amiot 143, Boeing Clipper, Boeing Stratoliner ....
About unlikely aeroplanes existing in kit form, how about the 1/24 Bugatti 100 P and Gloster VI ?
Hubert
-
3
-
-
With you on this one, Rog. I much preferred the glazed-nose sans-turret versions (not that it would change my purchasing decision - as I am doing camoed things. So a totally irrelevant opinion for the guys selling it
)
Hubert
-
1
-
-
Extremely well done, and an outstanding result
Hubert
-
2
-
-
Anyone has anything to say about the cowlings' shape
?
Hubert (
)
-
3
-
-
Be aware that the R-2800 had pressurised ignition lines (to avoid arc-sparkles at altitude). Therefore, the ignition lines were metal tubes, and not braided cables. This is one instance where a smooth wire will be more useful than a braided one.
Hubert
PS : and I love that cockpit
-
3
-
1
-
-
I went and checked the LSP thread on this kit. It effectively went south in one day
... so sad ... ( in the meantime I went to a modelling expo south of Lisbon, in Montijo. Some nice kits, not many in 1/32 - about 6 or 7 overall -, of which at least 2 P-51s and 3 Spitfires, and all «plagued » -IMHO- by ‘Spanish-school’ type of finish, but for a nice, if a bit bland in the hall’s poor lighting, Tempest).
It’s a nice subject, it’s a 1/32 twin, it spanned WWII to Vietnam, and it can even allow some civvies’ schemes. Rejoice, and get on with the wrong cowlings, whether you modify them, design-and-print new ones, or wait for the inevitable correction and detailing sets
Hubert
-
6
-
-
Hey, this is good, basic, logical, detective work ! Much better than wild « gutfeel » speculations
.
And in this case, it goes to show that the A-26 was not such a big airframe.
Oh, and a last mathematical reminder : a 1/32 kit has roughly 11.4 (11.390625 to be precise) times more « presence » than the same aircraft in 1/72.
Hubert
-
4
-
-
Civilian, with lots of red, yellow, blue, white ...
At worst, NMF or silver lacquer with yellow wings ...
Now that is REAL taste
Hubert
-
2
-
-
The result is well worth the efforts and the sentiments that triggered this build.
Well done
Hunert
-
3
-
-
Next should be a B-47 flying Iroquois testbed, in 1/32 of course
Hubert
-
3
-
-
Yes, oven cleaner (one containing caustic soda) will remove chrome just like it will remove paint.
Put the parts in a plastic bag, spray them with oven cleaner, and let it act for an hour or more. Rinse, et voilà ! And in case not everything has been removed, repeat the operation, and scrub gently with a toothbrush (not the one you use for yourself
)
Hubert
-
5
-
-
Cool project. And, btw, the conversion is not only in the canopy area, but also at the bottom, where you need to modify the bomb bay.
Hubert
-
4
-
-
Lancastrian ...
Hubert
-
4
-
-
To complete my answer. Since you have an old, yellowed, canopy, and need to vac-form a new one in PETG, you have two options:
1) Make a female mold around the old, yellowed canopy. This is the best option for vac-forming, whether the part is transparent or opaque. But it has some constraints, like needing a hole to suck the heated PETG in the female cavity. The diameter of this hole should be about 50% fo the thickness of the material formed to avoid any dimple. One way to get it is to drill a same diameter hole in the old part, insert a piece of monofilament in it, and pour the mold material around the part and the monofilament. When the model is set, remove the monofilament, et voilà, you have a hole for succion !
2) Make a male mold by pouring your mold material in the old canopy, than vacform, or plug-form the heated PETG around this male mold.
Whichever way you go, remember that PETG loves humidity, and will store it between its molecules. Thus, when you heat it, if you go above a certain limit (170° C), bubbles will appear within the plastic
, created by water vapour. To avoid this, one way is dehydrate the PETG sheet for two hours at 50° C. Another way is to heat the PETG by plunging it in boiling oil (160° C). And Peter from Airscale seem to have been successful by plunging the sheet in boiling water.
HTH
Hubert
-
1
-
-
Hi Dale,
I’m afraid you won’t like my answer : « Make new ones ! »
Old vac-form canopies were made of PVC, which yellows and becomes brittle with age. This is due to ultra-violets, and there is not much you can do about it, but for keeping your models, including when finished, in the dark ...
More recent vacs are made of PETG (one commercial name is « Vivak ») which is more tolerant of UVs, and does not seem to yellow with age (so far)
Hubert
-
1
-
2
-
-
Apparently, they have reworked the CAD. That’s what Neil says anyway. The nose on the 3D renderings for the new 1/48 kit certainly looks flatter than the 1/32 kit...
There are other issues however, like the outboard engine nacelles, which may not have been addressed, as most comments focused on the wrong nose shape.
Hubert
-
3
-
FPL Avenger
in LSM 1/35 and Larger Work In Progress
Posted
Good to hear ! Looking forward to see you converting this beast into a peaceful bomber ...
Hubert