GazzaS
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Posts posted by GazzaS
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Oh... by the way, I think it's Lego.
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Never mind about me... I haven;t had a fantasy build this big since I was in my twenties.
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1 hour ago, JohnB said:
I choose to over look that and just enjoy the flying "action". Very well done I think.
Overlooking things... is not in my DNA.
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4 hours ago, Jeff said:
Well, the guy was a good shot with the old Webley and the planes weren't going 6000 miles per hour..... like some I've seen.... it was cool to watch.... thanks John..
Ever seen a head on collision between two cars each of which were doing 55mph-ish? Now... the stall speed of a 109 is around 100MPH with wheels and flaps up. Imagine taking your car up to 100MPH and tumbling it down the side of a nice, big hill.
4 hours ago, JohnB said:Kinda grumpy today huh Gaz?
After the latest crop of war movies, I'm just over poorly thought out combat scenes.
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2 hours ago, JohnB said:
WAY overdone.
On 12/10/2020 at 1:01 AM, TJTX said:Yea, that one is a bit overdone for me.
On 12/9/2020 at 10:04 PM, Pardelhas said:hum... I dont like it... It´s too much and without too much sense.. Looks like that the chipping was used to cover the all black monotony.
Except for late war Japanese planes, I would never expect to see that kind of paint wear. And on an American plane I might expect a primer layer on some parts. Not trimming the decals to match is a mistake.
But there is some useful stuff there. Like the streaking where the black paint has remained. And I'm going to try that, but with more varied and narrow streaks. Again... another thing I hate to over emphasize on an all black aircraft. Face it... when you look at black aircraft in period photos, a lot of detail is swallowed up.
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2 hours ago, biggtim said:
For some reason, those images won't load for me.....
Does facebook hate you for some reason?
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More shit. Spitfire V vs. 109E3. Gimme a break. Two planes crashing with one short wing. Should have tumbled until they resembled last months beer cans at a back yard firing range.
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1 hour ago, Clunkmeister said:
I need a dog. We have some open space, over three acres, and we are starting to get some intruders sneaking around, jumping 6 ft high fences, etc., so maybe a nice puppy who will keep Joy and I safe while loving us like few dogs can. I have some experience with this breed...
there are none better.
Which breed it that? I'm a Rottweiler lover myself. That one might be a bit hairy for Australian climates.
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Saw this on facebook:
There are some useful ideas here... but stripping of that much paint? Maybe only in an IJA aircraft.
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Thank you, Fran.
Well, everyone... here is where it gets real hard. Weathering scale black. The jet black pin wash went well... but after it dried, I can't really tell if I see the jet black, or just the shadows of the engraved details.
Then there was oil details and shading. You know what happens when you get scale black wet? Yes... it turns jet black. And you can't do a damn thing with it. So, I'm on another tack, now.
To give the oils something to grip... I've coated the model with Tamiya XF-86. And... then I apply straight, undiluted paint. Then I begin to remove and blend the paint. I'm using a natural bristled brush which I've cropped to 2-3mm long bristles. Every little bit, I smear the bristles onto white paper towel to remove unwanted paint.
I've even tried a few oil steaks with varied results. Mostly unsatisfactory results. I think I made some decent headway with the cloth covered surfaces. But the metal skinned areas are another matter.
In the end, even with solvents I couldn't get all of the black out of the natural bristles. So, it's all a bit like this:
I don't have much time for waiting for oils to leech out the linseed oil midweek. So, I won't get much done. Hopefully this weekend I'll have something to show this weekend. I dunno.
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Ooh, didn't know about the Mig stuff. Might give it a go. Definitely much cheaper than having to pay Euros and German postal fees.
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Nicely done!
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Unfortunately, seems like I must order it from the land of my fathers... not available in Australia or from Hannants.
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2 hours ago, Clunkmeister said:
I can’t even imagine trying to move a warship around with mono line rigging. It’d last 10 seconds with me and my ham hands.
Uschi’s stuff is exactly what you need.
Well.... what prompted the change was when my mono separated from the torpedo net boom while I was trying to heat shrink it.
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2 hours ago, Clunkmeister said:
No, because it uses very long, aerodynamic slippery boattail bullets. And the caliber is too small. Wouldn’t have enough kinetic energy to knock something down at that distance. No ridges or slices in the bullet itself to give it drag. The bullet’s actually shaped like the Stiletto research aircraft. Not exactly a lethal shape. A typical 5.56 in an M4, M16, or AR15 is done by 800 yards. Even a 308 or 7.62 NATO is done by 1000 yards. This one’s still flying straight. If you got shot by one, as long as it didn’t hit anything hard, it would just poke a small, clean hole through you. Like getting poked by an awl. No tearing, no trauma, nothing. The bullets we use aren’t designed for anything but competition. Hunting with them would be pretty darn cruel.
Plus, this rifle weighs about 26 lbs. it’s heavy to be steady and absorb recoil. Think Olympic competition rifle in a larger caliber.
As for the 6.5mm Creedmoor and PRC. The Creed was developed by Hornaday in 2008 as a specific long range competition round. It worked very well. Then, in 2012, they lengthened the case and gave us the 6.5 PRC for a bit more oomph waaay out there.
It’s a fascinating sport, but crazy boring to watch. As intense as sporting clays and trap shooting, but more cerebral. Mathematical calculations in your head are required before every shot. You have a spotter with a spotter scope to call hits and misses only. No corrections. That’s up to the shooter to figure out. You have to hit a 12 inch square steel plate at distances between 300 yards and a mile away. You can’t even see the thing past 800 yards without a scope. Past 800 yards you start thinking about not only wind drift and bullet drop, but gyroscopic effect of the bullet’s spin, the earth’s rotation, mirages, differing weather patterns between here and there, it’s freaky. At those distances, the bullet is in flight for up to 3 seconds or so. The rifle barrel is 28” long and absolutely free floating to avoid pressure spots for harmonics. The muzzle uses a brake to dissipate gasses away from the tail of the bullet as it exits the barrel. The action is the old style Mauser or Enfield style manual bolt. No self loaders to add to mass moving around. Like I said, good for absolutely nothing but target shooting. I wouldn’t want to carry it around all day.
Thank you for the detailed description, Ern. I've never delved into competition shooting.
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4 hours ago, [CAT]CplSlade said:
Until May, my face was bare. Then, my previous job started mandating masks (the younger night staff kept coming in with exposure and it caused a panic) and I realized, why the hell am I shaving if no one at work can see my face? Fortunately my wife is cool with the new hair as she likes the red running through it. This is me in my 'book and music library/model display/virtual classroom' and personal chamber.
Great looking display you have there!
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46 minutes ago, PeteF said:
The kit has incredible brake, marker and turn signals. The light lenses were to be glued on to painted silver backing. I used canopy glue but the seal became air tight. I don’t know if it will ever dry clear
It looks great! I started to use canopy glue until I discovered it never really hardens... dries clear but rubbery. I use kitchen foil for the backing of lights...gives a bit more reflection than paint. And if you don;t like foil, the Molotow Chrome pen works really nice, too.
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I have a fair amount of EZ line with a flat cross section. But I'd like to upgrade for a warship build where I don;t always want to use monofilament. Anyone know a name of this stuff?
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1 hour ago, Clunkmeister said:
It’s a competition rifle. Not much good for much else but ringing the dinner bell from a mile away.
The bullets are shaped go fly straight, not tumble, and to stay supersonic for a very long distance.
It would be absolutely useless as a weapon of war. But to allow one to hit very small targets from a very long distance away, it does an absolutely perfect job.
What round does it use? Still... sounds a lot more deadly than a pillow-fight.
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Very impressive looking weapon, Ern!
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30 minutes ago, BlrwestSiR said:
Actually, that's all Mr Color Levelling thinner is. It's regular Mr Color lacquer thinner premixed with their retarder. There's an article on the Gunze website about it and how they don't recommend it for a flat finish. The longer drying time is great for gloss coats but not so much for a flat one.
Thank you! One of my biggest air brushing problems is when I have to do larger areas. I tend to back away to get a slightly wider spray and end up with rough texture. I really need a airbrush for wider coverage.
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I'll enjoy seeing your progress.
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Diabolical Dornier ... a 1/48 Odyssey
in Non LSM 'WIP
Posted
Weathering... continued.
Dot filter.
I'm using yellow ochre, Burnt sienna, green, and blue dots. No white allowed. For some reason, white develops a frosty look. Here's a dot pattern closeup:
And a couple more gratuitous shots.
One note for anybody who is curious: These Dornier's with radials don't seem to have any exhaust staining. All of the exhaust stubs seem to be removed enough from the body to keep the engine gases in the slipstream. It's different with the ones that have the inline engines.
A couple more step in weathering, then I'll add the final coat, detail painting, fixes, and landing gear.
Thanks for looking!