biggtim

The only thing I would say is that I have had few bad experiences putting lacquer spray clear over lacquer paint (especially primer) that has fully cured. It sometimes causes the first coat to soften and crinkle up. I'd test it on something else first. If your clear flat is acrylic, you're probably ok.

I have not added those to the catalog yet, though I believe I have located the molds in the stash. The problem is that I have not found the masters, so I need to cast some new parts in the existing molds to assess if the molds are still good. I just haven't done it because those parts are BIG and resin is not cheap. If you are interested, I'll make a point of doing that in next couple of weeks. Drop me an email at bnbresindesign@gmail.com so we can stay in contact. Tim

Man, I gotta disagree with you there buddy! I hate molded in seat belts. But each to his own, so let's have every seat offered with or without belts!!!

Are you using Fusion 360?

Impressive, sir!

That is one helluva contraption!!!

NICE!!! Beautiful work, my friend!!

This a pretty good source for the ribbon colors, Eli. There are lots of others that may be even better. https://www.pngkey.com/detail/u2e6u2t4t4e6r5a9_usaf-medals-and-ribbons-order-of-precedence-us/ Tim

Camera would be my guess as well.

Drop me an email and I'll see if I can find out for you. bnbresindesign@gmail.com.

Thanks for looking! I tried all the old email addresses from GMF, including Mark's, and they are long defunct. I do hope Tim is still kicking somewhere, though! Maybe Mark can be tracked down, but I don't even know his last name. I even went as far as messaging some of Tim's friends on FB, with no responses. If I could at least find out if he's living or not, I would know whether to keep trying or give up. I've already spoken to Jerry, and he has given his blessing, but as he no longer has the legal rights to those kits, I don't feel right reproducing any of that stuff without Tim's ok. T

I thought that's what Texas people looked like!

I believe he used to live in Alfreton. Beyond that, I know next to nothing. I'm hoping some of the Telford crowd might have met him before and be able to track him down. Even Jerry Rutman doesn't know how to contact him anymore.

I would not take that bet.

It would be really cool if one of our members in the UK could help me find him, as it's pretty tough to do it from the US.

Wow, that is NICE! Excellent weathering and paint. Now you just need to build a radar equipped version! (hint, hint) Tim

Trust me, John, I've put a LOT of time into trying to track down Tim Skelton to ask that very thing. I had hoped to acquire the rights to the Rutman stuff he sold, but I just can't find the guy. Tim

It's finally ready! Here is a link to the instructions, please email me if you want one at bnbresindesign@gmail.com. Cost is 22 USD plus shipping. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1M9pMx27GIi-XLGdyY2gBcb9uO1UG0zHs/view?usp=sharing Please allow a week or so for me to get everything cast and shipped (some of these parts are very tough to do!). Teaser photo:

I've spoken to John about them already. In fact, he's the reason I added the extra tie-down channel. I think he want something bigger (wider) than that, though. unfortunately, these do not lend themselves to extension in the other direction very well.

As most of you know, I've had printed WW2 US Carrier decks available for some time in 1:32. I recently tried a very expensive experiment, and used one of the 3D masters that I made for my own use to make a mold, and I've successfully cast a resin copy of it. So, if that is of interest to any of you, I'm willing to offer them as a special order item only. Here she is: Each base will come unpainted in gray resin, and will include enough brass PE strips from Tom's Modelworks to complete the kit. This thing is 13" x 13" (330mm x 330mm) and about 1/4" (6.35mm) thick, so it will not fit in a pressure pot. As a result, there may be some small bubbles in the surface, but a coat of paint or primer will likely fill them up (you can see them in the previous pic. I've also added an additional tie-down channel to one end so multiple bases can be linked end-to-end to form a single long base if you like. So, here's the rub - due to the cost of materials, I will not be keeping any of these in stock. I'll make them to order, and I'll have to charge 55 bucks plus shipping for each one in order to cover my cost and make a little for my effort. Shipping to the continental US should run about 12 bucks for one base. It's a lot, I know, but I kind of did it as an experiment, and figured someone out there might want one. So, let me know, and thanks! Catalog has been updated - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UqWGz7vIYi1CVEFtd9-zBzSdFlzNx3eu/view?usp=sharing Tim - bnbresindesign.com

I don't wonder, Peter. I'm convinced no one does. 28 miles? I would drive there and buy it in person rather than trust the mail. The only decent hobby shop I know of anymore is 2.5 hours away, and I have driven there many times.

I hear you. I had a package go from Minnesota to Florida before making it's way back to me in Washington State. Quite late, I might add. Or there's the flat rate package I sent to an ebay customer on the east coast. The package arrived with a hole in it, and completely empty. They delivered an empty #$@!^%&$ box!!! And of course, even though it was insured, they told me there was nothing they could do for me. I loathe them so much, but I have almost no choice but to use them.

Looks like I may have a line on what I needed, thanks!

Would anyone be willing to scan some pages from their Tamiya F4U-1 Birdcage kit instructions for me? I do not have the kit, and I need some info to finish up the instructions. The conversions are ready to go otherwise. If you can, please email them to me at bnbresindesign@gmail.com. I need the equivalent pages to these examples from my F4U-1A instruction book, just for the Birdcage version: Thanks! Tim

Once, that I can recall.